A newbie on wedge grind and bounce......

wayoverpar · April 12, 2017

Just wanted to share some thoughts and observations about wedges. I know this isn't earth shattering news to any advanced players, but in case you're new to golf, this may help. I also wanted to start contributing to the forum, as I've gleaned so much information from here. Just joined recently, and have only played just over a year.

For reference sake, I've played Cleveland 588 3.0 and 2.0, Titleist SM5 & SM6, a few misc others. I realized after trying these various wedges (in play), the grind is more crucial to get right than the bounce. Based on my swing style, I prefer the S or "C" grind (i guess this is what Cleveland calls it), and the leading edge to be tight to the ground. I've tried a similar bounce in different grinds, and I can tell you there was a significant difference in ball contact and flight. An example is; a 58 08 in SM6 "M" and a 58 06 in "C" 588. Nearly every time with the same ball, day, and turf, my ball contact was close to the toe on the SM6, and near center on the 588. I could easily blame length, distance to ball, etc.....but I tried back and forth too many times, and it was too consistent of a result. Looking at the grinds (marks), ball flight, and other, the conclusion I derived was, the "M" grind allowed the club heel to pass first, and then "close" late. The 588 grind was a little more uniformed, less material taken away from heel, and kept the face square passing through turf prior to contact. I also compared the "M" grind to the "S" grind of the SM6, and the bounce was only different by 1*, yet yielded the same results as "M vs "C" grind. I really did love the "S" grind on the SM5, but it was slightly edged (no pun) out by the leading edge look of the 588 2.0.

I'm not sure if I have the terminology correct, but I can say to anyone picking out a wedge or wedge set, focus more on the grind fit to your swing style first, and later on the bounce.

Maybe other more experienced could elaborate.

jslane57 · April 12, 2017

This is all good information. It is possible that the overall club weight, swing weight, shaft flex, and even how you felt about the grip had an even more important impact on your being successful with certain clubs over any bounce and/or grind...

jsanatx · April 12, 2017

makes sense OP, but what about playing older wedges? Newer offerings, like the SM5 or 6, clearly display the grind (F, M, S, etc). How can a person determine what the grind is on an SM4 Oil can with 8* bounce?

wayoverpar · April 12, 2017

This is all good information. It is possible that the overall club weight, swing weight, shaft flex, and even how you felt about the grip had an even more important impact on your being successful with certain clubs over any bounce and/or grind...

Actually, yes, and no. The shafts were/ are basically, the same (steel, short wedge shafts). The same grip was installed on all of them (GPMCC Mid)...however, I did like the weight of the Cleveland more so than the Titleist. But, I will qualify it by saying the grind I like on the one SM5, did perform similar to the 558 2.0. Even though the weight wasn't the same.

wayoverpar · April 12, 2017

makes sense OP, but what about playing older wedges? Newer offerings, like the SM5 or 6, clearly display the grind (F, M, S, etc). How can a person determine what the grind is on an SM4 Oil can with 8* bounce?

Haven't a clue about the wedges prior to different grinds being made available and labeled. As I mentioned, I've only been golfing a year, and the post was more directed to those who are trying to decide on a new wedges with multiple available grinds and bounces.

Pepperturbo · April 12, 2017

Proper grind is a benefit, but proper bounce is more important, as it makes shots easier. Grinds not so much in the hands of mid-hi caps. Seem plenty people with the latest and greatest grinds, dumping sod over the top, costing strokes. Their hands were not in the proper position at impact as a result of lazy wrists, plus they are not as forgiving.

Example, SM6 "M" grind has a slightly shaved heal, toe and somewhat narrow sole, like "L" grind, both with low bounce; designed for golfers that know how to benefit from each aspects of the grind; toe up, toe down, various degrees of open face, etc. In the hands of someone that needs 12* wide sole, it can be a recipe for ugly.

Pepperturbo · April 12, 2017

This is all good information. It is possible that the overall club weight, swing weight, shaft flex, and even how you felt about the grip had an even more important impact on your being successful with certain clubs over any bounce and/or grind...

Yes, swing weight and proper flex with a comfortable grip can influence outcome. My LW is E0, with S200 shaft, lengthened to PW length, and +3 wraps. All of which contribute to me planting shots where I want them. Over bounce and grind, no. There should not be trade offs, but if trade off is a must, proper bounce then SW, shaft flex, and grip are most important.

Pepperturbo · April 12, 2017

makes sense OP, but what about playing older wedges? Newer offerings, like the SM5 or 6, clearly display the grind (F, M, S, etc). How can a person determine what the grind is on an SM4 Oil can with 8* bounce?

There were far more time periods without wedge grinds than with. Before grinds came out, Pros and better amateurs like myself, who knew what they wanted had wedges ground to accomplish what are called grinds today. Big wide soles didn't exist, and low bounce was rather common. To get tighter on the ball we had the heal and toe relief cut. To get more bounce we opened the face up various degrees depending on shot demand and conditions.

But to answer your Q; study up on various grind images on the net. Note what each grind looks like, then look at older wedges to see if any aspect match contemporary images.