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Hunt's WITB, Update 1-13-21! Starting off 2021 w/NEW Irons, Wedges and Putter (soon) ALL on Page 5!


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Another question for you Richie... am I correct that it's better to match a calculated MOI figure (kg/cm squared) rather than the measured SW? The reason I ask is because I've read +/-0.5 SW progression with 3/8" intervals; however, some of my results are 0.25 SW or less between some clubs.

 

FWIW, I don't have the MOI machine but I do have a SW scale. So again I'm using a spreadsheet to estimate the MOI for all clubs. Thanks!

 

Edit: I was thinking about adding a counter weight to the short-irons for better balance (ie. 12g OptiVibe at 10" down the shaft in the PW) but seems like doing so will drastically reduce SW. Something just doesn't seem right. I'm open to any suggestions.

 

Here's a chart of the components I'm working with if it helps:

 

 

917 D2 8.50* - Tensei CK Pro White 60
917 F2 13.5* - Rogue Max 70
816 H2 19.0* - D+ Plus 90
716 T-MB (3i, 4i) - Modus 120
716 CB (5-PW) - Modus 120
Hogan TK15 - 49, 55
Edel Deschutes

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1457364-pitchinwedges-witb/page__p__15152218#entry15152218"][color=#0000ff][b]Photo WITB[/b][/color][/url]

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I don't like the swingweight methodology for this exact point. If you add a counterweight or a heavier grip, the SW drops.

 

I have applied counterweights to my clubs and measured the MOI and the MOI stays the same.

 

I have not used Tour Lock Opti-Vibe counterweights. These are counterweights that you can move more up-and-down the shaft in order to get the SW you want. I've talked to some clubmakers that have used the Opti-Vibe and if you slide it down the shaft more (towards the club head), the MOI increases...slightly.

 

MOI increases the most when you add weight to the head. And it increases less when you add weight towards the butt end.

 

With counterweights, since they are rather small...all of the weight goes towards the butt and you're not going to increase the MOI by much.

 

With the Enlow Grips, my guess is that since there is so much weight added towards the mouth of the grip...that is more down the shaft and that's why the MOI increases by about 20-30 points.

 

I would suggest that you get an MOI machine. I know they aren't cheap, but it will completely change your buying habits and understanding of equipment. And in the end, it will help you find the best possible fit and you will likely save money in the end instead of being dissatisfied with equipment and purchasing new equipment.

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Ok thanks again for your input Richie. As you pointed out, the swingweight methodology seems to be misleading. I was getting confused because the measured swingweights do not correlate well with my MOI calculations.

 

Howard Jones (who seems to be a very reputable club builder), and number of others people on WRX, recommended the +/-0.5 SW progression with 3/8" intervals as a way to build a basic MOI matched set. So, if I'm understanding this correctly now, they are suggesting the +/-0.5 SW progression as an alternative to estimating, calculating, or measuring actual MOI. Since I've got good measurements for all my components, I think I should stick to the MOI calculation over measured SW.

 

As for balance, how noticeable do you think the difference will be within my set? Doesn't seem like it will be bad between say the 6i and the 8i or 4i but perhaps another story when comparing 3i to PW?

917 D2 8.50* - Tensei CK Pro White 60
917 F2 13.5* - Rogue Max 70
816 H2 19.0* - D+ Plus 90
716 T-MB (3i, 4i) - Modus 120
716 CB (5-PW) - Modus 120
Hogan TK15 - 49, 55
Edel Deschutes

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1457364-pitchinwedges-witb/page__p__15152218#entry15152218"][color=#0000ff][b]Photo WITB[/b][/color][/url]

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  • 1 month later...

Richie,

 

I'm interested in how your Danger Zone© concept influenced your bag setup. Particularly the decision to go with a 2h & 3h and eschew the traditional 56° sand wedge.

AI Smoke TD 8° w/shaft TBD

Big Bertha 815 Alpha 14° w/Voodoo VS

'24 Apex UW 19° w/Rogue Silver

'16 Apex Hybrid 23° w/DG 
'24 Apex CB 5-7; '24 Apex MB 8-11 w/DG

MD2 55° + PM 1.0 58° w/DG
Odyssey White Hot 2 Ball Frankenstein (Fowler style)
[img]http://pxc86358mpx1hyn3hdxen4o1.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/171831.png[/img]

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Richie,

 

I'm interested in how your Danger Zone© concept influenced your bag setup. Particularly the decision to go with a 2h & 3h and eschew the traditional 56° sand wedge.

 

The big thing is the gapping. I determined that I'd rather be in-between clubs with a short club than a long club. It's just difficult to take off the appropriate amount of distance when you get to the longer clubs. You can swing easier, but then you fear the 'swing easy and hit hard' shot.

 

I believe the hybrids should be the best clubs in your bag because you're essentially having to hit them the furthest from the worst lies. So, I was determined to have a hybrid in my bag.

 

I used to carry a 3-iron and I found from a decent lie it's a bit more accurate to hit to the green than the hybrid. But, the 3-hybrid works better from crappy lies and it is better at carrying trouble. It also seemed to me that a lot of shots that require a 3-iron tend to have trouble in front of the green, so I wanted the 3-hybrid which could consistently carry the trouble no problem.

 

I went to a 52 degree because I noticed that I had an issue with the gap between my PW and 56* SW. I also noticed that around the green I was far more likely to use my 60* LW than my 56* SW.

 

I also believed that I could probably find a 52* SW that I could more easily adjust my shot to hit it around the green than I could with a PW and trying to hit a 125 yard shot into the green.

 

So, I set out to find a 52* SW that was shaped more like a 56* SW, but I could hit 120-125 yards. The Vokey does the trick really well. In fact, I will use the 52* on shots from 60-75 yards where I spin the ball a ton and it works like magic.

 

I also saw that Ernie Els and Sang Moon Bae, both having good (if not great) short games both used the 52* SW with a 60* LW and no 56* SW. So it wasn't like I was totally off the wall with the idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Richie,

 

I'm interested in how your Danger Zone© concept influenced your bag setup. Particularly the decision to go with a 2h & 3h and eschew the traditional 56° sand wedge.

 

The big thing is the gapping. I determined that I'd rather be in-between clubs with a short club than a long club. It's just difficult to take off the appropriate amount of distance when you get to the longer clubs. You can swing easier, but then you fear the 'swing easy and hit hard' shot.

 

I believe the hybrids should be the best clubs in your bag because you're essentially having to hit them the furthest from the worst lies. So, I was determined to have a hybrid in my bag.

 

I used to carry a 3-iron and I found from a decent lie it's a bit more accurate to hit to the green than the hybrid. But, the 3-hybrid works better from crappy lies and it is better at carrying trouble. It also seemed to me that a lot of shots that require a 3-iron tend to have trouble in front of the green, so I wanted the 3-hybrid which could consistently carry the trouble no problem.

 

I went to a 52 degree because I noticed that I had an issue with the gap between my PW and 56* SW. I also noticed that around the green I was far more likely to use my 60* LW than my 56* SW.

 

I also believed that I could probably find a 52* SW that I could more easily adjust my shot to hit it around the green than I could with a PW and trying to hit a 125 yard shot into the green.

 

So, I set out to find a 52* SW that was shaped more like a 56* SW, but I could hit 120-125 yards. The Vokey does the trick really well. In fact, I will use the 52* on shots from 60-75 yards where I spin the ball a ton and it works like magic.

 

I also saw that Ernie Els and Sang Moon Bae, both having good (if not great) short games both used the 52* SW with a 60* LW and no 56* SW. So it wasn't like I was totally off the wall with the idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

 

Thank you for the explanation, I'm very seriously considering going to an identical bag setup. I have a few "beliefs" when it comes to bag setup and your bag matches them perfectly and I want to emulate that.

 

Would you mind posting your carry yardages with your current bag, just so I can see how you have your Danger Zone clubs gapped vs your short game clubs?

 

Thank you,

 

Dan

AI Smoke TD 8° w/shaft TBD

Big Bertha 815 Alpha 14° w/Voodoo VS

'24 Apex UW 19° w/Rogue Silver

'16 Apex Hybrid 23° w/DG 
'24 Apex CB 5-7; '24 Apex MB 8-11 w/DG

MD2 55° + PM 1.0 58° w/DG
Odyssey White Hot 2 Ball Frankenstein (Fowler style)
[img]http://pxc86358mpx1hyn3hdxen4o1.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/171831.png[/img]

 

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Thank you for the explanation, I'm very seriously considering going to an identical bag setup. I have a few "beliefs" when it comes to bag setup and your bag matches them perfectly and I want to emulate that.

 

Would you mind posting your carry yardages with your current bag, just so I can see how you have your Danger Zone clubs gapped vs your short game clubs?

 

Thank you,

 

Dan

 

Here's my carry yardages:

 

Driver = 270-280 yards

3-wood = 240-250 yards

2-Hybrid = 230-235 yards

3-hybrid = 220-225 yards

4-iron = 208 yards

5-iron = 195 yards

6-iron = 182 yards

7-iron = 170 yards

8-iron = 158 yards

9-iron = 147 yards

P-Wedge = 136 yards

S-Wedge (52*) = 122 yards

L-Wedge (60*) = 90 yards

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Thank you for the explanation, I'm very seriously considering going to an identical bag setup. I have a few "beliefs" when it comes to bag setup and your bag matches them perfectly and I want to emulate that.

 

Would you mind posting your carry yardages with your current bag, just so I can see how you have your Danger Zone clubs gapped vs your short game clubs?

 

Thank you,

 

Dan

 

Here's my carry yardages:

 

Driver = 270-280 yards

3-wood = 240-250 yards

2-Hybrid = 230-235 yards

3-hybrid = 220-225 yards

4-iron = 208 yards

5-iron = 195 yards

6-iron = 182 yards

7-iron = 170 yards

8-iron = 158 yards

9-iron = 147 yards

P-Wedge = 136 yards

S-Wedge (52*) = 122 yards

L-Wedge (60*) = 90 yards

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

 

Thank you. Those are within a yard or two of my yardages as well. The top end of the bag really comes into play on a good number of holes (par 5's x 4, long par 3's, long par 4's, holes where you don't hit the driver very well, etc.). These holes, it's nice to take 3 from long distance, but way more important to NOT take 5, and having good gaps allows for fuller, freer swings, like you said.

 

I'm also very happy to hear that the 52° works well for you as a partial wedge club. I often though that it would be even better than a 60°, due to the optimal launch angle for spin generation AND the fact that 52° is a bit more forgiving than 60°. I would imagine that for those mid range shots where you don't have to carry anything, the 52° is the optimal club.

AI Smoke TD 8° w/shaft TBD

Big Bertha 815 Alpha 14° w/Voodoo VS

'24 Apex UW 19° w/Rogue Silver

'16 Apex Hybrid 23° w/DG 
'24 Apex CB 5-7; '24 Apex MB 8-11 w/DG

MD2 55° + PM 1.0 58° w/DG
Odyssey White Hot 2 Ball Frankenstein (Fowler style)
[img]http://pxc86358mpx1hyn3hdxen4o1.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/171831.png[/img]

 

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  • 1 year later...

Current WITB:

 

Driver: Callaway Epic, 9.0* loft, 45-3/8" Fujikura Atmos Blue 7x shaft (gamer), TaylorMade M1, 9.5*, 45-3/8" Fujikura VC6.1 (X-Stiff)

 

3-Wood: Cobra King F6+, 13* loft, 43" Fujikura Atmos Blue 7x shaft

 

2-Hybrid: Titleist 816H1, 17* loft, 41" Fujikura Motore 8.8HB Tour Spec (Stiff)

 

3-Hybrid: Titleist 816H2, 19* loft, 40-3/4" Fujikura Motore 8.8HB Tour Spec (Stiff)

 

4-iron thru P-Wedge: Srixon Z945, standard lie and loft, True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100 shafts

 

S-Wedge: Titleist Vokey Spin Milled 6 F-Grind, 52* loft, 12* bounce, 36-1/4" Nippon Modus 125 Wedge shaft

 

L-Wedge: Edel Golf Digger Grind, 60* loft, 22* bounce, 35-5/8" Nippon Modus 125 Wedge shaft

 

Putter: Toulon Design Long Island, 35" long, 3* loft, 70* lie angle.

 

 

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RH

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I'm currently gaming the Callaway Epic for now, but I also have the M1 on standby. I think I'm more consistent from a distance perspective with the M1, but the Epic reacts to toe hits better.

 

The change to the Titleist hybrids has been great. They are excellent for me. I plan on getting fitted for new clubs in the Spring and I will not touch the hybrids as I like them so much.

 

The irons are still the same, although I'm probably going to go to cavity backs in the Spring and perhaps some sort of composite shafts. I'm working diligently on my swing and I'm making steady progress and I want to have the swing close to where I want it before I go to new irons.

 

I'm still using the same wedge designs, but I'm using the SM6. The bore is a little longer on the SM6 and thus the head is about 2 grams lighter.

 

The Edel LW is still the best LW I've ever hit.

 

I went to the Toulon Long Island. I actually had a Cameron, but that didn't fit my stroke and this fits my stroke better and I now make a lot more right-to-left putts and feel more comfortable under the short putts. It's also got a great feel

 

All of my clubs, driver thru LW are still MOI matched and fitted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Well you know me Richie I had to come on here and see what you have done next--- As always very interesting----

Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

5W  --- TM V Steel Fubuki 60r

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

Irons 5 thru PW TM TP CB Steel Fiber 95 R F

SW Callaway PM Grind 56* Modified Grind KBS Tour Wedge

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter Macgregor Bobby Grace Mark 4 V-Foil Broomstick

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Baller alert! Nice gear man.

Titleist TSR3 9* - Ventus TR Blue 6X

Taylormade Stealth 2 15* - Ventus TR Blue 8X

Callaway Apex UW 19* - Ventus TR Blue 8X

Titleist T200 4i - Axiom 105X

Titleist T100 5-PW KBS Tour 130X
Titleist Vokey SM9 Raw 50/56/60 - KBS Tour 130X

Scotty Cameron Circle T Tour Rat Newport

 

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  • 2 months later...

A few goodies. First, the non-golf club addition. The FlightScope Mevo.

 

This is really good. I tested this against Trackman and the data was very similar. Connectivity to my Android can be a little wanky, but I really look forward to this for not only practice, but for club and ball fitting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Next up, the Miura K-Grind 52* wedge.

 

I had the Miura K-Grind in 56* a few years ago and really liked it. However, I switched to a wedge setup of PW, 52* and 60* and the K-Grind was not available 52* at the time. Then when it was, I wanted to try out the 52* K-Grind first because I was a little skeptical of the bounce (8*). I got to try it out at the PGA Show and it was exactly what I was looking for. I added a Nippon Modus 125 Wedge shaft. I will put some lead tape on it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Lastly, the Bettinardi Queen B #9. This is a 362 gram head, 1/2 shaft offset with a little toe hang. 3* loft and 71* lie angle at 34". Really love how this putter sets down...not only from a looks perspective, but from a feel perspective.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Have you used the mevo indoors at all, or just outside? I just picked one up to use in my garage, and outside on the rare occasion I get to the the range. Excited to see how well it works!

 

I've only used it outdoors. When I used it with very little wind it was working great. When it got windy today it had difficulty picking up consistent ball, club speed and carry distances.

 

They say you really need to put a sticker on the ball when you use it indoors. But, what's cool about it outdoors is you could easily take it on the course with you.

 

You may have to adjust how far you have the device from the ball in order to get more accurate data and it seems to take a 3-4 swings from the same location to start to get more accurate and consistent results. But, I'm very happy with the purchase.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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I’m enjoying the Mevo. It appears that if you do not put the sticker on the ball, it calculates the carry and the spin. I’m not sure if it actually measures spin and carry without the sticker, but it does provide the carry and spin without the sticker…it’s just calculated. I could see this as I would hit balls and I would get the carry distances while the ball was still halfway in flight.

 

This is not really a bad thing as the calculated carry distances appear to be very accurate. It’s just that if it is windy out…since the Mevo (w/o the sticker) is not actually measuring the actual carry distance than you may get some inaccurate readings.

 

For instance, let’s say I carry my normal 7-iron 170 yards. But I have a 1 club head-wind…the Mevo (w/o the sticker) would probably read 170 yards of carry when in reality it may have gone about 160 yards.

 

So if you’re looking for exact distance (w/o the sticker) then you may have some issues. But the calculation basically normalizes the data and I’m more concerned about the normalized data than the actual data since wind can change.

 

I will also be headed to TrueSpec Golf for a fitting on Saturday of my woods, if my elbow holds up. Looking to find a low spinning driver head that fits me best and 3-wood heads. I will be head to California to get fitted on Fujikura’s ENSO machine in April and I want to make sure I have the best fitted driver and 3-wood heads prior to my trip.

 

 

 

 

RH

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New driver and 3-wood after being fitted at True Spec golf.

 

Screenshot%2B2018-02-17%2Bat%2B6.52.11%2BPM.png

 

Screenshot%2B2018-02-17%2Bat%2B6.51.10%2BPM.png

 

First off, the experience was excellent. It's outdoors and you're at Lake Nona which is always top notch. In fact, about 50 yards away Ian Poulter was working on his short game. But they have really neat setup at True Spec with tons of heads and shaft combinations.

 

I wanted to get fitted because I was looking for a low spin head. My gamer was a Callaway Epic (non-Sub Zero) and what I had seen I was getting my spin rates up to 3,000. I tend to 'hang back' and it gets my attack angle too upward (+5 to +6 degrees with the driver) and it causes a very high launch (15-16 degrees) with that 3,000+ rpm spin rate. When I'm swinging well things lower a bit, but I was trying to get my spin rate closer to 2,000.

 

I get warmed up while the fitter is gathering the heads and shafts and I'm hitting the ball well and end my warm up quickly since I'm going to be making a lot of swings. Then I get set up to the Trackman and...

 

...I start swinging awful and my spin rates with the driver were getting to 1,100 to 1,500 rpm. I was hitting everything badly off the toe and managed to save it and the fitter was a bit puzzled.

 

After hitting about 20 more shots with my driver I started to figure out the swing and we started to see a 3,600 rpm shot that looked alright, a 3,000 rpm shot. I was able to keep the spin rate around 2,600 so some of the swing changes I've been working on were working.

 

The drivers I tested were the Callaway Rogue, TaylorMade M3 and M4 and the Ping LST G400. I was surprised how much I liked the M3. I was afraid that the M3 would spin too much. It does launch a little higher, but I was able to manage the spin rates well and I really do think it's an effective club off mis-hits. In fact, if I don't like Callaway Rogue, I may end up going to the M3. The G400 I launched way too high and usually missed it right. Feels good, but just doesn't fit me.

 

In the end, the shaft that fit me best was the Aldila Rogue Elite Blue 65 (X-Stiff). I wanted to get fitted for a head as I will be getting fitted at Fujikura HQ on their ENSO machine in April.

 

In the end, the current gamer (Callaway Epic with Fujikura Atmos 7x Blue) was not that far off from being an optimal fit. I picked up about 10 yards of carry and was hitting the Rogue (w/Rogue) shaft with 282 yards carry. The Epic with Atmos was getting about 276 yards carry. I went to Edwin Watts on Turkey Lake Road (probably the best Edwin Watts ever) and they had the Rogue with a X-Stiff HZRDUS shaft in it. The PGA Tour Superstore and Golf Galaxy up the road never carry X-Stiff shafts. I also don't like the PX EvenFlow shaft.

 

The retail HZRDUS comes in at 45.75" long and a MOI of 2,860 which is way too long and too heavy for me (I don't know how any amateur can swing these clubs). I'm going to trim it down and then see how the HZRDUS works against the Atmos shaft. But again...I'm really waiting for April when I get fitted by Fujikura.

 

 

***

 

My 3-wood gamer was a Cobra King F7+ changed to 13* with a Fujikura Atmos 7x Blue shaft. There were a lot of times I felt like I could probably hit my 2-hybrid (Titleist) as far as my 3-wood. The spin isn't right and it showed up as the spin rate was at 4,000 rpm with 12.5 degree launch.

 

We tried an Accra shaft that was better, but then we hit the jackpot with the Veylix Rome 788LR Wildeye. We tried some of the Mitsubishi shafts and they were either too light or too heavy. But the Veylix was fantastic. I started to carry it, on average 252 yards. I maxed out a 258 yards carry. The average spin rate was at about 3,300 rpm. We also tried the M4 head (launches too high, but very accurate), Cobra F8 (launches perfectly, but carries about 245 yards for whatever reason).

 

The theme here was that I clearly needed a change in 3-woods. The max TOTAL distance with my gamer was 254.6 yards (carry on that one was 239.7 yards).

 

With the Rogue and the Veylix, my average CARRY was 251.6 yards. So I was carrying the Rogue with the Veylix only 3 yards shorter than my *max* total distance shots with my gamer. I was also getting 20 yards of roll on average with the Rogue compared to 14 yards of roll with my gamer.

 

I really wasn't used to seeing a 3-wood fly that way. :)

 

I also got the 3+ Rogue from Edwin Watts with the HZRDUS shaft. This comes in at 43.75" long and with a MOI of 2,725. So it's a bit on the light side.

 

Anyway, my next purchase will be a new set of irons. I'm most likely going to a CB set. Hopefully my swing continues to improve and I can get a little less spin and launch on the ball. But, I don't plan to get new irons until the fall. While True Spec's facilities are awesome, summertime is just way too hot for club fitting in Florida.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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  • 2 weeks later...

I purchased this Laser Optics training aid for my putting from Wright Putting Dynamics. I have issues with my aim as I usually aim to the right of the target too much

 

 

 

What's great about this laser is the base that it is mounted on. You can simply rest your putter blade up against it when the laser is aimed at the middle of the hole and now your putter is aimed at the target. Then you can use that to alter your address position to get the putter looking like it is aimed at the hole.

 

For example, I have a rightward aim bias. When the putter is aligned at the target it actually looks like it is aimed left for me. Thus I start to adjust the putter face to the right.

 

What I've done with this as well is put some blue painter's tape on the floor that is inline with the laser. So I can practice aiming correctly without the laser.

 

After changing some things at address I found that I had my ball position up way too far. It made everything look like I was aiming too far left and thus the rightward aim bias.

 

I will be getting fitted for irons, soon. I'm really interested in some lower spinning CB's and possibly graphite shafts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got fitted at TrueSpec Golf for irons. And here are the winners:

 

 

 

Last week I took my FlightScope Mevo out and measured the yardages I hit my Srixon Z945's and here's what I got:

 

MED.png

 

I was pretty happy with the numbers except for my distance on my P-Wedge and 52* wedge (Miura K-Grind). However, I was interested in a cavity back in order to keep the spin down (the #'s were hit off the mat which typically lowers the spin). My launch angle gets high and if the spin rate isn't down enough then I can struggle into the wind. I figured that would help me gain some distance as well.

 

I was also interested in graphite shafts due to the shoulder and elbow issues I've had in the past 2 years.

 

When I got to True Spec and on their Trackman, the numbers were practically identical to the #'s on the Mevo. They had me hit my Srixon Z945 6-iron and the spin rate was about 200 rpm lower on Trackman and the ball speed was about 122.5 mph with a 19.3 launch and 104 ft Max Height. My attack angle with the 6-iron was consistently at -1.3 degrees.

 

First up was the P790 with the Accra Tour 100i shaft (X-Stiff). This turned out to be the winning combination.

 

A lot of people talk about 'jacking up the lofts' to hit the ball further, so I really researched about what is 'advantageous' and what's not. IMO, if the launch angle, landing angle and shaft length are roughly the same and you're hitting clubs further...then the 'jacked up lofts' really isn't an issue and it's a good thing that you're hitting the irons further. Of course, you can hit the ball further with lower spin rates, but if you're hitting them 1 club further then you can counter that difference in spin by hitting 1 less club.

 

Anyway, here were my numbers with the P790 and the Accra Tour 100i shaft (6-iron)

 

Club Speed: 93 mph

Ball Speed: 130.5 mph

Smash Factor: 1.40

Spin Rate: 4,700 rpm

Launch Angle: 18.5 degrees

Max Height: 104 feet

Carry Distance: 198 yards

Landing Angle: 49 degrees

 

I tried the Mitsubishi irons shafts and they flew too high. I tried a 110 gram and 125 gram UST Recoil and they went about the same distance but one spun too much and the other didn't get enough spin.

 

Tried the Srixon Z565 irons and the ball speed was at 128.5 mph with those and they flew too low. Then we tried the PXG 0311T and those spun too much and were getting about 128.5 mph ball speed as well. Then we tried the Callaway Rogue Pro and those competed the best with the P790's, but they also had a tendency to fly too high.

 

I did end the day with 133.7 mph ball speed on my 6-iron.

 

I asked to check out my P-Wedge and my 52* SW because the yardage gaps were pretty concerning. What we saw was the PW came out to 46.25* loft with my 9-iron at 41*. That could explain some of my P-Wedge problems. But the 52* K-Grind came in at 52* on the money.

 

This leads me to believe 2 possibilities could be the issue:

 

1. With me MOI matching my irons, that may put too much weight in the heads of the PW and 52* SW.

 

2. Swing mechanics (shallow attack angle) really show up in those 2 clubs.

 

I plan on getting the Accra shafts this week and putting PURE Grips Midsize P2 Wraps on them.

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Shafts (DG 105g X100's) have been removed. I was amazed how easy these shafts came off.

 

 

 

Here are the measured head weights...great tolerances!

 

 

 

It looks like TM makes the heads a bit heavier since the stock shaft options are the DG 105 and custom options are Recoils and Steelfibers.

 

I'm going to install the Accra Tour 100i shafts (X-Stiff) with those ferrules in the picture and a black, PURE Grips midsize wrap grip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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DYvApTZU8AEnuN7.jpg

 

I measured the CoG location of each of the P790 irons.

 

Essentially, very much towards the center of the face (horizontally) from the 4-iron thru the 7 iron.

 

The CoG moves towards the heel from the 8-iron thru the PW. This would likely cause more hook spin, but because of the Spin Loft with a 8-iron thru PW you're not likely to hook it much. My feeling is putting in tip weights on the 8-iron thru PW is a bad idea since it moves the CoG towards the heel even more. If you want to add weight, I'm guessing the best place is to add lead tape towards the toe.

 

Vertically, the CoG is between grooves 5 and 6 (from the bottom) on the 5-9 irons. The CoG moves down with the 4-iron, between grooves 4 & 5. And then it moves upward on the PW between grooves 6 & 7.

 

Accra shafts and PURE Grips should arrive on Friday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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Here's the assembled P790's with the Accra Tour 100i shafts.

 

 

 

 

 

The Accra's are parallel tip. Since I wanted them to be X-Stiff I was told to tip trim them starting at 2.5" with the 4-iron and work in 0.5" increments.

 

I decided to purchase a dremel for the trimming as I usually do graphite shaft trimming with a hacksaw. But since I had 7 shafts to do, I thought that would be too much work.

 

The difficult part of using a dremel was the tip trimming. It's more difficult to trim it cleanly from the tip as the graphite is firmer. The butt trimming was a cinch though and once I got used to the dremel I was able to tip trim much cleaner. Having said that, an angle grinder is really a better tool for precise and clean trimming. I also used the dremel to sand the tips, but I quit doing that after the 2nd try. The first tip I sanded was the 4-iron and that worked out fine. But I had a really difficult time with the 5-iron and ended up over-sanding it. So I just took the 5-iron shaft and made that a 9-iron shaft instead. I hand sanded them because I had more control since it's a .370 shaft tip that has to be sanded enough to get into a .355 bore. If the tip and bore matched up, then I would have no problem sanding with the dremel since there's little guesswork involved in sanding the tip in those scenarios.

 

The local PGA Tour Superstore used to sell PURE Grips and I was thinking that the PGA Tour Superstore was getting the incorrect wrap grips from PURE. The old P2 Wrap from PURE was the best wrap grip I've ever used and I was excited about trying the midsize version. But in the past year at the PGA Tour Superstore the PURE P2 wraps felt like the old classic wraps which I don't care for. And sure enough, when I ordered the midsize PURE Wrap grips from the company...they are the classic wrap type model. They are also not very big for a midsize either. I put them on anyway and maybe with consistent cleaning of the grips I'll grow to love them. But I will probably end up changing them out anyway. PURE had a real good thing going with the P2 wraps and to me this is a considerable downgrade.

 

As far as the MOI's they go in the 2,620 to 2,660 range. The shafts are constant weight shafts, but with them being parallel tip it can alter the MOI's around. I am looking to make them at 2,675 MOI thru some lead tape to the head. My optimal MOI is 2,725, but that would likely be adding too much weight to the heads to alter their ball flight. If I can get them the same, I'm hoping that I will get used to the lighter MOI and the added distance and more consistent ball flight will make up for the difference.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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  • 1 month later...

Had my fitting at Fujikura Headquarters in Vista, CA on Thursday 4/19. I was going to do a vlog on it, but I suck with the camera and I was going to do it with BeBetterGolf filming it, but Brendon had to back out.

 

I did get a cool tour of the place and showing their machines of not only how they make the actual shafts, but how they test shafts, read EI profiles, etc. as well as the fitting process behind their ENSO machine which is awesome.

 

From a quality standpoint...from just making a good looking, nearly impossible to break (as long as you are not windmilling it or snapping it over your knee), you just can't beat Fujikura. They have a lifetime warranty against breakage. I always remember the time my Grandfather was working on his car and a Craftsman wrench that had to be about 40 years old broke off. He then took me right to Sears and showed the wrench and they immediately got him a new one for free. It's things like that you remember and make generations loyal customers.

 

From a performance standpoint, Fujikura has so many model options that have so many variable profiles and torques that I have to imagine that it's nearly impossible to not fit into one. And they have such incredible customization options that are not only available in terms of aesthetics, but they can customize shafts for performance.

 

The ENSO machine is really neat. It's a 3D motion capture system with the motion capture balls on the golf shaft and the club head. From there, it measures numerous metrics of what is happening to the golfer and how that affects the shaft and how that affects the club head thru the swing.

 

VP of Engineering, Alex Dee, explained to me numerous things. But one of the key measurements is hand speed thru the swing. Alex described that the maximum hand speed is usually about where the trail elbow reconnects with the body in the downswing:

 

Screenshot%2B2018-04-26%2Bat%2B12.13.54%2BAM.png

 

After the hands reach their max speed, they then slow down into impact.

 

For instance, a player could reach a max hand speed of 60 mph and slow down to 22 mph at impact. Another player could reach a max hand speed of 55 mph, but only slow down to 45 mph at impact. Neither is wrong or right, but stuff like that has a major impact on what the shaft and club head will do.

 

After hitting balls, we made the following changes. Granted, the shafts in my clubs were mostly there because when I was fitted for the clubs...I was mainly trying to determine what were the best club heads for me as I knew I was coming to Fujikura for a shaft fitting

 

DRIVER - Callaway Rogue SubZero, 9* loft, 45-1/8" Project X HZRDUS shaft (X-Stiff)

 

Again, I purchased this club because I was fit best for the head. The typical stock shaft is a Project X EvenFlow which I cannot hit to save my life. I hate the feel of the HZRDUS shaft, but at least I can hit it reasonably well and it keeps the spin down.

 

The other issue with the HZRDUS is that I can be swinging well all day and hitting draw after draw and then feel like I took the best swing of the day and hit a cut too far offline. It's just way too stout of a club for me.

 

Fujikura Fit: Speeder 757 Evolution IV (X-Stiff)

 

They found I needed a much softer but section and perhaps a little more spin. Getting the spin rate to 2,200-ish instead of 1,900-ish. The little extra spin and softer butt section could keep the ball in the air a little longer to help add distance and the softer butt helps with the club being too stout for me.

 

I had some issues with over-draws (although I wasn't swinging exactly great) and slight pulls. They are going to put in a flatter adapter sleeve to help take a little left out of those shots.

 

I have the Project X HZRDUS in my 3-wood as well. I hit that thing too high and miss it right way too much and too often. Problem is the Rogue Sub Zero 3-wood does not have an adapter sleeve. We will likely go with a little heavier Evolution IV shaft in the 3-wood.

 

 

Hybrids: Titleist 816 H1 (17*) and H2 (20*) with Fujikura Motore Speeder HB 8.8 Tour Spec (Stiff) shafts

 

These are good feeling shafts, but I tend to leave them out to the right I was getting about 228 yards carry with the 3-hybrid and 240-ish with the 2-hybrid.

 

Fuji Fit: Atmos HB Blue 8

 

Despite the Motore Speeder HB shafts being in stiff, they are more stout than the Atmos Blue in X-Stiff. I only tried the Atmos Blue in the 2-hybrid, but was much more consistent, straighter and picked up about 5-7 yards of carry distance.

 

 

Irons: TaylorMade P790 w/Accra Tour 100i shafts (X-stiff)

 

I like the Accra shafts overall, but the main issues are they are a little too light for me. There’s a little bit of a lack of awareness with these shafts and that can cause some impact dispersion and some height control issues. But mainly the shot I have trouble with from time to time is a slightly pull-draw that goes too high and doesn’t have nearly as much zip on it. That usually ends up in a bunker or short-siding myself or both.

 

I got it all!” – George Costanza

 

 

Fuji Fit: Fujikura Pro 115 (X-Stiff)

 

I didn’t know that Fujikura would fit me with their iron shafts as well. They had a spare P790 7-iron with a Fujikura Pro 115 x-stiff shaft. I don’t know if the Pro 115’s have come out, yet. But Fujikura told me that the Pro 115’s were likely a better fit for me than the MCI’s.

 

Despite their 7-iron being ¼” shorter than mine, I ended up hitting the Fujikura Pro 115’s straighter, with a hair lower ball flight probably due to roughly 200-300 less rpm of spin. But, the landing angles were still at 48-50 degrees. And I actually hit these clubs about 5-7 yards further.

 

I had much better awareness of the club and as good as the Accra’s are…these are just a much better fit for me.

 

I plan to take pics when I get the shafts in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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  • 2 months later...

How are the accura shafts working out? Also, did you give the steel fibers a go? If so, what were your thoughts?

 

 

My left elbow is starting to bother me and I'm thinking I need to give a good hard look at graphite in the irons.

G400 LST - TPT proto
TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
Evnroll ER5
Snell MTB Black

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How are the accura shafts working out? Also, did you give the steel fibers a go? If so, what were your thoughts?

 

 

My left elbow is starting to bother me and I'm thinking I need to give a good hard look at graphite in the irons.

 

The Accra's were solid, but they were too light for me.

 

I now have the Fujikura Pro 115i's in my irons and I love them. I may take some pics of them tonight and put them in here.

 

I still have the Accra pulls. I may sell them in the Unclassifieds. They are a X-Stiff and a bit longer than standard so they can always be trimmed to fit most golfers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RH

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  • RichieHunt changed the title to Hunt's WITB, Update 1-13-21! Starting off 2021 w/NEW Irons, Wedges and Putter (soon) ALL on Page 5!

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