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OBAN CT-115 Iron shafts......worth the $75 bucks a pop?


Jeets2742

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I very much doubt they are worth $75 per shaft...

 

But is any putter worth $500 or $5000 better than a $200 putter performance wise?

 

Probably not...but people will pay!

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DG Pro isn't even close! Wow, that guy is nuts...

 

Oban shafts are made by Shimada in Japan who, of the four steel shaft manufacturers worldwide (yes there are only four) they work within the tightest tolerances and produce the highest quality steel shafts. The Oban steel, even in the X-Flex, feel like absolute butter! If I didn't need something a little bit heavier, I would DEFINITELY go with the Oban Steel shafts! Does that $75 price include installation? If so, that's not bad at all if you factor in at least $25-$30 for pulling, cleaning, and reinstalling to the correct length and swing weight.

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That came straight from Ralph at Oban when they were in the design stage. Whether or not that's the profile they ended up with...but that was their initial profile target according to him. Take what you will. I have these in my shop in every flex, but I have never measured one. I think they have a very firm feel to them, even in the lower flexes. $75 is a lot to swallow for steel, wherever it's made. Shimada shafts are less $$$, but still premium.

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When the DG TI shaft first came out, I was quoted $75/shaft also.

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Titleist 680 raw 4-PW Nippon MODUS 125S
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I got fitted for the X- flex with Srixon Z965 heads indoor on Trackman this winter. Was playing S56 with KBS Tour SS 2x. Finally got to hit a few shots outside yesterday at a local park as we got a 55deg day here in Northern MN. First impressions outside with the 7 iron is that the Trackman was right on with the ball flight. Trajectory was high and flat and dispersion/distance control was just as good as i saw on the monitor. Had 3 balls I could throw a 5 foot diameter ring around. Feel was very smooth and the lighter weight didnt cause any issues. Came away impressed and cannot wait for the season. Yes it was a bit of sticker shock on the price and time will tell once i get some rounds under my belt with them but im a believer so far.

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When I went for my club fitting, I had a couple goals in mind, first was I wanted the fitting to be as blind as possible. Shafts and heads, I didn't want to know what I was hitting. I did not want brand, marketing, or hype to factor into any of my decisions. Those three things are why I'm still in the market for clubs!! I want to play the clubs that are best for me, I don't care if I'm carrying 14 different brands of clubs, I don't receive a sponsors pay check, so why not. Right?

 

The blind fitting went great, out of the 10 or so shafts I only recognized 2, KBS C-Taper & PX. They have a distinctive look.

Heads, as long as I made an effort not to look at the badging, I didn't know for sure what I was hitting. It took a lot more self control to not look than I could've imagined.

 

My driver SS is 105, & 6 iron comes in at 88 mph. I play off a 9.5 GHIN so by no means I'm great, (surprised wrx let me sign up with a cap that high lol) but my fitter wanted to test all clubs and shafts that would be in my range. From the very bottom to top, to give me the most thorough fitting possible.

 

We decided on a bracket type elimination strategy. I would make my decisions on feel/sound, ball flight, looks etc, while my fitter was making his decisions from his own observations and Trackman #'s. I would give him my feed back on what I was hitting, and he would write his observations down, so I wouldn't get caught up trying to chase perfect #'s.

 

HEADS:

 

Heads proved a little more difficult to choose only because there were multiple choices that worked very well, numbers wise. In the end I went with what ticked the most boxes for me, looks, feel, workability, forgiveness & consistency. By not knowing what head I was actually hitting, I didn't allow the manufacturers marketing schemes to have any bering on my final decision. Let me tell ya, it was the best feeling I've ever had walking away from buying clubs. I would highly recommend it to anyone, it's such a freeing experience to walk away feeling like you have the best tools for your game, instead of having what has been jammed down your throat by the oems, and your buddies.

 

SHAFTS:

 

As I look back, this had to be one of the easiest decisions I've made regarding golf equipment. When you find the shaft that fits your swing perfectly, I can only explain it as falling in love or better yet finding "the one". You know, when people ask the question how'd you know, he/she was the right one, and your answer is, I just did, you just know

and there's no better way to explain it.

 

I was about 6 shafts into my fitting when I found "the one". I looked back at the fitter and said mark this shaft as the one I am taking home! Flight was great, dispersion was amazing, feel was absolutely out of this world! He didn't say anything but, "we have a couple more to try". Well I tried the other 4 or 5 shafts but could never get the other one out of my head. Trying to compare the rest of the shafts was futile. Nothing came close IMO.

 

In the end I went with the best all around performing clubs for ME by choosing blindly. They are the 716 AP2 w/ the Oban CT 115 S+ shafts. They aren't the longest but, they are the most accurate and consistent. I asked about the cost of the Obans just to get an idea of people's feelings on an steel shaft that is pretty damn expensive. $75.00 is the cost of only the shaft.

 

Comparing all the clubs I hit at the end of the fitting was fun. Would I have liked the PXG's more so, if I knew that was what I was hitting at the time? Maybe, but by not knowing, I had honest feedback from myself, and can safely say FOR ME they are not worth the $$.

 

I hit the AP1/ 2's, Srixon 765, 565's, Miura PP9003, Honma 737, M2's, PXG 0311, Ping iBlades, i200's

PX, PX LZ, DG AMT, KBS C-tapers, Tour, Oban Ct 115 R+, S, S+, Nippon 105, 120, 130.

All intertwined and mixed together. What ever head I put the Oban in, it just flat out killed everything else in feel, and dispersion. High, penetrating flight, and great spin. 6045 rpm w/ 6 iron.

 

 

 

 

 

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Sorry man, but no way I'd dump that kind of money into shafts. If I hit the Oban that well I'd first weight it (don't go off published specs) and then I'd start looking for other shafts in the same weight range to trial. Do some frequency profiling too and compare to data from Wishon's database. Dollars to donuts there are other shafts with similar charteristics that are a reasonable match. Build a couple of demo clubs and then to try them outside at the range. Most likely you will see very similar results.

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I had them in my MP5s. They are smooth, but launched high and were spinny for me. So i pulled them. Some of them made this odd creeking sound, like splintered graphite.

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I play them and absolutely love them. DG pro are not the same. DG pro is a progressive profile, weight, steps, everything. Obans are a constant weight shaft. They are very consistent shafts and of the best quality. If you can swing the price then they are worth every penny in my opinion.

 

So they are 3x better than Shimada Tour 115? I wouldn't be shocked if they were the same shaft...

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BTW, they are also supposedly "flighted" shafts, but my experience with them wasn't anything like DG PROS. The DG PROs were VERY noticeably flighted in their design, whereas with these, I could hardly tell.

 

I kinda wish I had tried them in the X flex....as perhaps then I would have liked them more? Dunno....

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  • 9 months later...

I just got home from a fitting and they put me in these shafts in a set of Titleist Cb heads. They wanted 2,018.00 for that combo, they are nuts and to be honest I hit the project x LZ 6.5 just as good. If you have the money the Oban's are amazing but i think i'll be going PXLZ.

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  • 2 months later...

Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

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Maybe Modus 120 or PX LZ. I was fit into the CT115 R+ (launch monitor) and I'm actually "feeling" like I'm getting good on course results with KBS Tour R+ (115g raw I believe) in the same head.

 

I've played Modus 120 stiff in another set which felt great too. I'd like to compare Modus 105 stiff, LZ 5.5 and the KBS R+ on a launch monitor to my fitting results with the CT. I mean the fitting doesn't lie, my dispersion was dead on the target with the Oban shaft but I know I didn't try the other shafts I mentioned (to get the next best less expensive option).

 

Also my current set with KBS R+ is not custom fitted for the swing weight I was fit to (D0 and set is maybe D2) but the shaft feels good. So, still down the rabbit hole until I can afford the proper build but it works for now.

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Anyone find a shaft that s similar in profile, but slightly heavier. I have the Oban CT115, and it feels absolutely phenomenal, but I would like to have just a touch more weight. Nippon Modus 120?

 

Can you do us a huge favor and post a pic of your 4 iron next to the ruler? I want to see the step patterns and compare with Shimada K's Tour 115

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  • 3 weeks later...

Anyone find a shaft that s similar in profile, but slightly heavier. I have the Oban CT115, and it feels absolutely phenomenal, but I would like to have just a touch more weight. Nippon Modus 120?

 

Can you do us a huge favor and post a pic of your 4 iron next to the ruler? I want to see the step patterns and compare with Shimada K's Tour 115

 

Anyone find a shaft that s similar in profile, but slightly heavier. I have the Oban CT115, and it feels absolutely phenomenal, but I would like to have just a touch more weight. Nippon Modus 120?

 

Can you do us a huge favor and post a pic of your 4 iron next to the ruler? I want to see the step patterns and compare with Shimada K's Tour 115

 

Let me know how these compare to the Shimada shaft. Although I've only seen them listed as the Shimada Tour. Would also be good to see vs. Shimada 120 Tour if you have access.

 

Here are the shots. These are for the soft X flex 4 iron, which is ~39" raw shaft length and 115g. I put a piece of blue tape at the bottom part of each step slope so you can see where the steps are.

1st Step 22 7/8"

 

2nd Step 21 3/4"

 

3rd Step 20 5/8"

 

4th Step 19 1/2"

 

5th Step 18 5/16"

 

6th Step 17 1/8"

 

7th Step 16"

 

8th Step 14 29/32"

 

9th Step 13 25/32"

 

10th Step 12 9/16"

 

11-13th Steps 11 19/32", 11 1/8", and 10 21/32"

 

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Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

 

Interesting idea but you would need to jam 2 down in each one. They are just under 4 grams each. I’ve been using them for many years. They do work.

I also play on the coast, and I've heard stories of rusty forming in shafts

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Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

 

Interesting idea but you would need to jam 2 down in each one. They are just under 4 grams each. I’ve been using them for many years. They do work.

I also play on the coast, and I've heard stories of rusty forming in shafts

 

More of an issue With pro softs. They are solid and don’t allow air circulation if the shafts get damp inside. The Sensicores have essentially a straw down the middle of them specifically to allow air movement and dissipate moisture.

 

 

Edit...I suppose I should edit this. This debate has been going on forever. The Sensicore faction vs. the pro soft faction.

 

Each is convinced they are correct. I don’t really know or care. I’ve used sensicores since they were introduced and never had a problem. I also should say that I’m very careful to spin the end of my grip tape in my fingers and seal the end of the shaft tightly every time I do a regrip to keep any moisture out in the first place.

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Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

 

Interesting idea but you would need to jam 2 down in each one. They are just under 4 grams each. I’ve been using them for many years. They do work.

 

Nothing a little lead tape on the insert couldnt fix :)

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Maltby STI2 Irons 
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Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

 

Interesting idea but you would need to jam 2 down in each one. They are just under 4 grams each. I’ve been using them for many years. They do work.

I also play on the coast, and I've heard stories of rusty forming in shafts

 

More of an issue With pro softs. They are solid and don’t allow air circulation if the shafts get damp inside. The Sensicores have essentially a straw down the middle of them specifically to allow air movement and dissipate moisture.

 

Sensicore foam will absorb and hold water, which will absolutely rot the shaft.

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Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

 

Interesting idea but you would need to jam 2 down in each one. They are just under 4 grams each. I’ve been using them for many years. They do work.

I also play on the coast, and I've heard stories of rusty forming in shafts

 

More of an issue With pro softs. They are solid and don’t allow air circulation if the shafts get damp inside. The Sensicores have essentially a straw down the middle of them specifically to allow air movement and dissipate moisture.

This is incorrect. Pro soft are closed cell foam on the exterior and do not hold moisture. Sensicore absolutely can and have rusted shafts out from moisture.
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Went to Club Champion about 8 months ago for an iron fitting. Didn’t even know Oban made iron shafts and I’m on this forum every damn day..

 

The Oban seemed to have a nice feel to them but several other shafts I tried were clear winners for me over the Oban.

G400 LST - TPT proto
TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
Evnroll ER5
Snell MTB Black

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Install sensicore inserts into then...20 bucks will give you an extra 8g or whatever in each shaft.

 

Interesting idea but you would need to jam 2 down in each one. They are just under 4 grams each. I’ve been using them for many years. They do work.

I also play on the coast, and I've heard stories of rusty forming in shafts

 

More of an issue With pro softs. They are solid and don’t allow air circulation if the shafts get damp inside. The Sensicores have essentially a straw down the middle of them specifically to allow air movement and dissipate moisture.

 

Sensicore foam will absorb and hold water, which will absolutely rot the shaft.

 

That’s what prosoft would like you to believe. I personally don’t buy it.

 

I’ve used them ever since they came out and I lived a mile from the beach in so cal for most of my life.

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