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Driving iron off the tee players. Ball selection?


slantsflood

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Was wondering if you guys used a ball as hard as a rock to get the best of both world's out of your tee shot?

 

I'm changing my game to a driving iron only. I've always hit all irons well and a decent short game. Just tired of driver or 3 wood haunting me over the years.

"Patience without understanding"

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Why? You might gain 10 yards off the tee but they have much less control going into the green or with your short game.

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Callaway Epic Hybrid 20* GD AD I
Mizuno JPX 900 Forged/ Hot Metal Combo 5-9
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Scotty Cameron Circa 5
Bridgestone BX

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I dont know. Just an experiment of thought. Accuracy shouldn't be a problem with a udi. If I could get a extra 15 yards off of a ball I would work my game around that.

 

I have never found a distance ball that I could work around. In general putting and chilling is just uncomfortable. I prefer the old saying of picking a ball from green to tee even if I lose 2-3 yards off the driver.

 

Have played the Nike RZN platinum for most of this/last year and just got some new chrome soft and chrome soft x to try.

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I hit my H5 1-iron off of the tee a lot and use a Z-Star or Z-Star XV. For my purposes I don't feel like I'm lacking in distance. And, as others have said, gaining some yards off of the tee probably isn't worth what you'll lose going in to the green.

Titleist TSR4, 7.25*, Aldila Rogue Black 95 MSI 70 S
Titleist TS3, 14.25*, Speeder VC 8.2 Tour Spec X
Titleist 818 H2 17*, Speeder VC 8.8 HB Tour Spec S
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Srixon XV is my choice and although I don’t like it persaonally the TP5x is a little longer on long irons than most balls I have hit

Current WITB

TAYLORMADE M5 9* (Tensei Pro white 80tx)
PING i25 14* (KuroKage Proto 70xx)
SRIXON ZU85 2i (C-TAPER 130x)
SRIXON Z785 4-PW (C-TAPER 130x)
CALLAWAY MD5 50S (C-TAPER 130x)
CALLAWAY MD5 55W (C-TAPER 130x)
CALLAWAY MD5 60X (C-TAPER 130x)
TAYLORMADE Spider Tour Black (no alignment aid)
BRIDGESTONE TOUR Bx 

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I have used just about all of the Pro V1x equivalents from the different manufacturers, and I don't notice much difference -- the ones I currently have in the rotation are the B-330 and the Tour Preferred X. I would caution against going to a distance ball, because I'd expect that the loss of control in the short game and on approaches to cost you more than you'll gain by hitting the ball a few yards farther.

 

When I tried the TP5x, that spun less than other balls I've used, which added about a half a club of distance with my irons (probably went farther off the driver, too, but I never really tested that), but I couldn't even deal with the reduced spin around the greens with that, so I can't imagine how much trouble I'd have adjusting to a non-urethane ball.

Ping G430 LST 9* (set to 7.5*), 45", Fujikura Ventus TR Black 6x
Ping G430 LST 14.5* (set to 13*) Fujikura Ventus Black 7x
Ping G430 Max 18* (set to 17*) Fujikura Ventus Black 8x or Tour Edge CBX Iron-Wood 17* (Black Pearl) Fujikura Ventus HB Blue 9x
Epon AF-306 4i + Epon AF-Tour CB2 5-PW, Nippon Modus 125X
Yururi Seida Black 52*, Nippon Modus 125/Titleist Vokey SM8 58* K-Grind & 62* M-Grind DG S200
Byron Morgan long pipe neck B-17, Brushed Mystic finish, 34" or Byron Morgan long pipe neck beached 007x

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Strikes me as the exact opposite of what you should do. Hitting a driving iron you're going to be farther back from the green, so your approach shots are going to be with a longer club. You'd have a harder time stopping 6i than a 9i, so playing a "hard as a rock" ball (as you put it) would exaggerate that problem. And since you'll be coming in from farther out, you're likely to miss more greens, so you wouldn't have as much control pitching and chipping with a distance ball. I'd think if you're going to experiment with foregoing woods in favor a driving iron, you'd want a ball with even better spin control.

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I think it depends on your style of play. I know a couple of slower ss players that love the Titleist Velocity. And their game meshes well with the ball because they chase the majority of their shots to the green. For someone like me who likes to hit onto the green with a hop and stop, a ball like the velocity is a scoring killer.

 

Is the issue with the driver and 3 woods mishits or just wayward shots? If it is wayward shots then have you tried something like the new E6 speed or softs?

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I use the Srixon soft, it’s long enough but touchable around the greens and putts true. A true putt is my first priority.

 

Also had success with the Nike soft distance until it was discontinued.

 

I swap my U45 16* the rare times for my 3 wood depending on the course conditions but my 3 wood is the everyday set-up.

 

Unless you cannot hit a 3 wood, than by all means go to the driving iron and ditch the 3 wood.

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This post is everything that is wrong with golfers who live on these forums... Think about the logic you are using here buddy. I wouldn't recommend a rock hard distance ball to anyone, majority of your shots are within 100 yards which is why you would want a ball that has the best feel, also no good being 1-2 clubs closer to the green off the tee if you then cannot stop that ball on the green!

**WITB**

 

Titleist TSR2 10*, D1, 44.5'' - Ventus Red 6x

Titleist TS2 15*, D1, 42'' - Kai'li Blue Prototype 80TX

Titleist TSR2 Hybrid 18*, A1, 40.25'' - Atmos TS Blue 8X

Titleist T150 4i - AMT Tour White X100 Black Onyx

Titleist 620CB 5-PW - DGX100 120

Titleist SM9 Raw - 52F, 56F, 60D - AMT Tour White S300

Toulon San Diego (2022), 32'', Golf Pride Pro Only Cord Green Star

TP5x

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I use bridgestone b330.

I use a 2 iron mostly instead of a wood...totally understand that...not getting the rock hard ball part tho. Kinda reminds me of the dude at the range who hits bucket after bucket with his driver...i just want to say, dude, ur focusing 100 percent on 15 percent of the game...ive seen lil korean dudes score par driving it like 180 (straight as an arrow and 10 yards off the ground but...)

Sorry, side rant....either way, stay with what helps up close

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