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Has anyone ever used epoxy from GolfWorks? I just installed a TM adaptor using their "high strength" epoxy (Not the tour or quick set stuff), and I'm a little concerned with how it has set up.

 

I always leave the mixing stick in the epoxy on some cardboard after I've done my work...gives me some idea of how it is setting up. 30 hours later, the epoxy is still a bit sticky. Don't get me wrong, the mixing stick is completely bonded to the cardboard, but the epoxy is somewhat compressible and feels sticky.

 

I've always used Brampton's which sets up as hard as glass 24 hours later. Should I be worried?

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Mizuno T7 50
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Cleveland RTX 3 59
Ping Anser Milled #6

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Any time I see someone having sticky epoxy after setup should have taken place, I immediately think its either poor ratio, poor mixing or a combination of both.

 

This epoxy should setup fairly hard and not be sticky. There might be a little amine blush depending on the humidity. You can look up "amine blush."

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (on order)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (soon to be mothballed)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
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i use JB weld and never had an issue. golfworks is overpriced for what it is.

Qi10 LS / 8* (dialed to 8.75*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Qi10 Tour / 3w / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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i use JB weld and never had an issue. golfworks is overpriced for what it is.

 

Common JB Weld is designed to withstand high temperatures so it's a poor choice for golf clubs using graphite shafts if there is any chance you have to pull the shaft at some point. If you go to sell any clubs assembled with JB Weld I hope you inform the buyer what material you used.

 

Regarding price, JB Weld is more expensive than Golfwork's 24 hour epoxy so not sure what your reference point is.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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i use JB weld and never had an issue. golfworks is overpriced for what it is.

 

Common JB Weld is designed to withstand high temperatures so it's a poor choice for golf clubs using graphite shafts if there is any chance you have to pull the shaft at some point. If you go to sell any clubs assembled with JB Weld I hope you inform the buyer what material you used.

 

Regarding price, JB Weld is more expensive than Golfwork's 24 hour epoxy so not sure what your reference point is.

This is completely incorrect.

 

I've had numerous graphite shafts pulled that I have used JB weld, including 2 of them today at lunch.

 

 

For reference, I use this:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-ClearWeld-Epoxy-Syringe/50149636?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-Glue-_-50149636:J-B_WELD&CAWELAID=&kpid=50149636&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1512&k_clickID=7ba3b385-27df-4b07-8357-72921ee8a55b&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uzVBRDkARIsALkZAdnLBKmd5fPvLbpKvEBUitQ10XSQLI9VHvL8a478vWactf0yft5_IFgaAiCmEALw_wcB

 

*98-100 mph 6i swing speed, 117-120mph driver swing speed

Qi10 LS / 8* (dialed to 8.75*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Qi10 Tour / 3w / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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Hmmm.....I'm quite OCD when it comes to this stuff. Swear the ratio was 1:1 and I mixed it for a long time.

 

Maybe I'm overreacting. It isn't really even soft....i can't put a dent in it but it feels tacky. I'm used to the Brampton's which is like shiny glass.

TM M1 440 10.5/Fuji Speeder Evo 757X
Cally Mini 1.5 14/Fuji Speeder 952 Tour Spec X
Cobra Baffler/Hzrdus Black 75 6.5
Srixon Z745/Nippon Modus 3 Tour 120X
Mizuno T7 50
Cleveland RTX 3 54
Cleveland RTX 3 59
Ping Anser Milled #6

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Hmmm.....I'm quite OCD when it comes to this stuff. Swear the ratio was 1:1 and I mixed it for a long time.

 

Maybe I'm overreacting. It isn't really even soft....i can't put a dent in it but it feels tacky. I'm used to the Brampton's which is like shiny glass.

 

Sounds normal. As mentioned earlier in this thread, search on "amine blush."

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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i use JB weld and never had an issue. golfworks is overpriced for what it is.

 

Common JB Weld is designed to withstand high temperatures so it's a poor choice for golf clubs using graphite shafts if there is any chance you have to pull the shaft at some point. If you go to sell any clubs assembled with JB Weld I hope you inform the buyer what material you used.

 

Regarding price, JB Weld is more expensive than Golfwork's 24 hour epoxy so not sure what your reference point is.

This is completely incorrect.

 

I've had numerous graphite shafts pulled that I have used JB weld, including 2 of them today at lunch.

 

 

For reference, I use this:

https://m.lowes.com/...FgaAiCmEALw_wcB

 

*98-100 mph 6i swing speed, 117-120mph driver swing speed

 

That clear fast set JB Weld is NOT the common JB Weld 99% of the people think of when someone mentions the term. Typically 5 min epoxies like that have the opposite issue of that which I mentioned; they break down very easy with heat. I know the Loctite 5 min epoxy that's commonly sold in hardware stores like Lowe's has that issue (it's only rated to 120F). BTW, there is NO DATASHEET for that JB Weld epoxy so you don't even know what you are getting.

 

Bottom line: why use some unknown epoxy when you can buy golf club epoxy or some high quality industrial epoxy like 3M?

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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i use JB weld and never had an issue. golfworks is overpriced for what it is.

 

Common JB Weld is designed to withstand high temperatures so it's a poor choice for golf clubs using graphite shafts if there is any chance you have to pull the shaft at some point. If you go to sell any clubs assembled with JB Weld I hope you inform the buyer what material you used.

 

Regarding price, JB Weld is more expensive than Golfwork's 24 hour epoxy so not sure what your reference point is.

This is completely incorrect.

 

I've had numerous graphite shafts pulled that I have used JB weld, including 2 of them today at lunch.

 

 

For reference, I use this:

https://m.lowes.com/...FgaAiCmEALw_wcB

 

*98-100 mph 6i swing speed, 117-120mph driver swing speed

 

That clear fast set JB Weld is NOT the common JB Weld 99% of the people think of when someone mentions the term. Typically 5 min epoxies like that have the opposite issue of that which I mentioned; they break down very easy with heat. I know the Loctite 5 min epoxy that's commonly sold in hardware stores like Lowe's has that issue (it's only rated to 120F). BTW, there is NO DATASHEET for that JB Weld epoxy so you don't even know what you are getting.

 

Bottom line: why use some unknown epoxy when you can buy golf club epoxy or some high quality industrial epoxy like 3M?

you're not always right.

 

here's the data sheet. ...research does wonders. i did mine before i bought it:

 

http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-reviews-and-guides/j-b-weld-clearweld-datasheets

Qi10 LS / 8* (dialed to 8.75*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Qi10 Tour / 3w / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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i use JB weld and never had an issue. golfworks is overpriced for what it is.

 

Common JB Weld is designed to withstand high temperatures so it's a poor choice for golf clubs using graphite shafts if there is any chance you have to pull the shaft at some point. If you go to sell any clubs assembled with JB Weld I hope you inform the buyer what material you used.

 

Regarding price, JB Weld is more expensive than Golfwork's 24 hour epoxy so not sure what your reference point is.

This is completely incorrect.

 

I've had numerous graphite shafts pulled that I have used JB weld, including 2 of them today at lunch.

 

 

For reference, I use this:

https://m.lowes.com/...FgaAiCmEALw_wcB

 

*98-100 mph 6i swing speed, 117-120mph driver swing speed

 

That clear fast set JB Weld is NOT the common JB Weld 99% of the people think of when someone mentions the term. Typically 5 min epoxies like that have the opposite issue of that which I mentioned; they break down very easy with heat. I know the Loctite 5 min epoxy that's commonly sold in hardware stores like Lowe's has that issue (it's only rated to 120F). BTW, there is NO DATASHEET for that JB Weld epoxy so you don't even know what you are getting.

 

Bottom line: why use some unknown epoxy when you can buy golf club epoxy or some high quality industrial epoxy like 3M?

you're not always right.

 

here's the data sheet. ...research does wonders. i did mine before i bought it:

 

http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-reviews-and-guides/j-b-weld-clearweld-datasheets

 

Hummmm. Why does it say 3200 psi on the package but 4400 psi In the write up?

 

I’ve never even seen that stuff but from this info it looks pretty standard for 5 minute epoxy.

 

I thought you were talking about the metal repair super high heat gray stuff as well. I have some in the basement right now. I was going to use some to fill in my sight line on my ghost spider later today, cures Extremely hard and you can sand it.

 

 

Edit... a little snarky there aren’t we? Ness may not always be right, but he’s usually right.

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Hummmm. Why does it say 3200 psi on the package but 4400 psi In the write up?

 

I’ve never even seen that stuff but from this info it looks pretty standard for 5 minute epoxy.

 

I thought you were talking about the metal repair super high heat gray stuff as well. I have some in the basement right now. I was going to use some to fill in my sight line on my ghost spider later today, cures hard as steel and you can sand it.

 

no, i know the traditional JB is ROCK when it cures. that's the stuff you use to shaft up irons you NEVER plan on getting apart again.

 

it's 3200psi shear strength i believe, i'll check the package when i get home.

Qi10 LS / 8* (dialed to 8.75*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Qi10 Tour / 3w / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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Has anyone ever used epoxy from GolfWorks? I just installed a TM adaptor using their "high strength" epoxy (Not the tour or quick set stuff), and I'm a little concerned with how it has set up.

 

I always leave the mixing stick in the epoxy on some cardboard after I've done my work...gives me some idea of how it is setting up. 30 hours later, the epoxy is still a bit sticky. Don't get me wrong, the mixing stick is completely bonded to the cardboard, but the epoxy is somewhat compressible and feels sticky.

 

I've always used Brampton's which sets up as hard as glass 24 hours later. Should I be worried?

 

How cold was the temp during the cure time? I've seen the curing go much slower in my cool basement than in warmer spaces in other parts of the house.

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Amine blush seems to explain it. I learned something today. Thanks guys.

 

It was probably 60 degrees in my garage when I did the install. Cool, pretty damp.

TM M1 440 10.5/Fuji Speeder Evo 757X
Cally Mini 1.5 14/Fuji Speeder 952 Tour Spec X
Cobra Baffler/Hzrdus Black 75 6.5
Srixon Z745/Nippon Modus 3 Tour 120X
Mizuno T7 50
Cleveland RTX 3 54
Cleveland RTX 3 59
Ping Anser Milled #6

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That JB Weld CLEAR is rated for TENSILE strength. What we need to know is the overlap lap shear strength as measured by ASTM D 1002-72. Tensile strength is always way higher than shear strength. Plus we also need to know the strength vs temperature stability of the epoxy.

 

Check the 3M DP460 datasheet for a good example of what a datasheet should look like. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/66122O/3mtm-scotch-weld-tm-epoxy-adhesive-dp460-ns-and-off-white.pdf

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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That JB Weld CLEAR is rated for TENSILE strength. What we need to know is the overlap lap shear strength as measured by ASTM D 1002-72. Tensile strength is always way higher than shear strength. Plus we also need to know the strength vs temperature stability of the epoxy.

 

Check the 3M DP460 datasheet for a good example of what a datasheet should look like. https://multimedia.3...d-off-white.pdf

 

how about 15 sets of irons, 17 drivers, 8 fairways, and 14 wedges with no fails --- is that ok for you?

 

f it. op, buy the golfworks stuff and ignore all this bs. mix it well - if it fails, do it again.

Qi10 LS / 8* (dialed to 8.75*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Qi10 Tour / 3w / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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That JB Weld CLEAR is rated for TENSILE strength. What we need to know is the overlap lap shear strength as measured by ASTM D 1002-72. Tensile strength is always way higher than shear strength. Plus we also need to know the strength vs temperature stability of the epoxy.

 

Check the 3M DP460 datasheet for a good example of what a datasheet should look like. https://multimedia.3...d-off-white.pdf

 

how about 15 sets of irons, 17 drivers, 8 fairways, and 14 wedges with no fails --- is that ok for you?

 

f it. op, buy the golfworks stuff and ignore all this bs. mix it well - if it fails, do it again.

 

How did you keep track of those?

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That JB Weld CLEAR is rated for TENSILE strength. What we need to know is the overlap lap shear strength as measured by ASTM D 1002-72. Tensile strength is always way higher than shear strength. Plus we also need to know the strength vs temperature stability of the epoxy.

 

Check the 3M DP460 datasheet for a good example of what a datasheet should look like. https://multimedia.3...d-off-white.pdf

 

how about 15 sets of irons, 17 drivers, 8 fairways, and 14 wedges with no fails --- is that ok for you?

 

f it. op, buy the golfworks stuff and ignore all this bs. mix it well - if it fails, do it again.

 

How did you keep track of those?

They're all things I've owned in the last year, or the club's built for the kid I coach/mentor.

Qi10 LS / 8* (dialed to 8.75*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Qi10 Tour / 3w / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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Can you peel the remaining epoxy off of the cardboard? If so, is the piece hardened, the underside hard and smooth?

 

I have had sticky residue left behind, but the epoxy has hardened. I chalk the sticky residue up to one of the two parts that I failed to mix completely (usually near the edges).

Cobra King F9 10.5*
Cobra F9 14.5*
Cobra 18.5*
Adams Super S Hybrids 22*, 25*
NCW 24*, 28*, 33*, 38*, 43*, 48*, 53*
Mac Custom Grind 58* (NevadaGolfGuy Special)
Bradley, Geom, Machine, Mannkrafted, Ping, Rife, SGC, Scotty, Tad Moore, Xenon

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Ive had issues with the golf works epoxy but only out of the pre filled tubes and only the tour set plus. Whenever i have to mail something is when it would seem to fail. Let it sit for 12-24 hours then mail it out. Only thing i could think of is it got too cold in the cargo plane?

 

I switched to the 3m stuff and haven't had a single issue since. I can have a club ready to hit with that in 30 minutes.

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I've used Bramptons, Golfworks and Diamond Tour epoxies all with no failures. I do notice a different hardness at cure depending on the temperature. It seems that the warmer the temp, the faster the cure, the harder the leftovers seem.

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I did too! The old amine blush.

 

I’ve experienced it a few times without knowing it had a name. Curious.

 

Ness is a virtual cornucopia of knowledge. ; )

Who? ;)

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (on order)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (soon to be mothballed)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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All of the golf specific epoxy's regardless of cure time should work just fine if mixed properly with the right ratios. Assuming of course that the work was done properly :) BB

Irons: 19' Cobra CB's
Drivers: Titleist TS3 & Cobra F9
Fairway: Titleist 917F2
Hybrid: A-Grind
2 iron: Ping Rapture
Wedges: Ping Gorge 2.0 Stealth's
Putter: Evnroll 9.1
Balls: ProV1

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I've used Bramptons, Golfworks and Diamond Tour epoxies all with no failures. I do notice a different hardness at cure depending on the temperature. It seems that the warmer the temp, the faster the cure, the harder the leftovers seem.

 

Yes, and those whom work in a freezing garage wondering why the epoxy would not cure correctly.

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