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Toll, what do you still think of super ls as a driver head? I have an 8.5 that one as thinking of bringing back out. My only issue is the adapter. It's only compatible with itself. So no shaft switches, I'd need multiple adapters and shafts. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

I get spin rates similar to an M1 in front weight position but forgiveness as good or better as the M1 in back weight position. I love the shape and deep face of the head as well. Ball speeds are right there with anything new. I had forgotten how good this head was until we started doing a comparison of older heads with new shaft tech. It just came alive when we started trying things like Tensei Pro Orange and Synergy Black in it. I don't love the fact that the head is white, but that can be easily fixed. I honestly think if this driver came out today, with modern shaft tech, and black, that guys would go crazy over it. I do want to make note of the fact that this head is VERY flat in the 7.5 head, which is a Tour only loft, in terms of lie angle compared to almost anything you will see on the market. For example M1 in the flattest setting is 56 degrees. This head is 54 degrees in the standard setting. For players who have a lot of toe droop coming into the ball, this is NOT the head for you.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'll post new pics this week for sure. Sorry for the delay on that.

 

I've gone back to my M1 7.5 head and gone back to 70 grams in the driver. I was hitting the ball with about 3mph better ball speed with the lighter shaft, but just wasn't controlling it on the course the way I wanted. A 5 birdie 73 with a double and 4 bogies, and numerous tee shots I didn't like the location of convinced me that I needed to get back to what I'm most comfortable with. The round could easily have been 69-70 without much work, but I killed myself off the tee, which is generally a great strength of my game, and made scoring difficult. No more of that. Back to the Taylormade head and the 70 gram driver shaft. I give up 8-10 yards, but scoring is much easier when the driver is going where you want it to. I'm also hitting it longer than I have with any other 70 gram shaft ever before with Synergy Black, so while I'm shorter than the with the 60 grammer, I've still gained some yardage from last season just based on the lower spin of the Black.

 

Hitting everything under the Sun allows me to make a very informed decision on what to put in play, and although the Callaway drivers really offer top level ball speeds, I hook them constantly. A more neutral biased 440cc Sub Zero and it would go right in the bag. The sad thing is they MAKE this golf club, they just choose not to give the public access to it. The Ping drivers offer tremendous forgiveness, but I over spin them. Titleist lacks ball speed, and spins too much. Believe it or not, the Mizuno GT180 was the best feeling and right there at the top of the ball speed ladder, but the whole one loft thing is just a killer for me. Make this in 7.5 or 8 degree TRUE loft, independent of face angle, and I might just be playing it. F8+ is also very good. A full carbon head would be nicer looking, or maybe black fading into carbon. It just looks a little too much like an M3 carbon copy to my eye, and for better or worse, that affects my confidence with it. Very nice club though, and competitive with the big boys. If any OEM's read this, please, for the love of God, stop with this one loft nonsense. Not everyone hovers the driver at address and manipulates the face square. If you are going to insist on doing this, allow the consumer to order drivers with a measured and exact face loft, independent of face angle.

 

I also solidified that the P790 irons make this game pretty easy with anything resembling a decent swing. My wedges have been set for quite some time, although I do change out fresh heads a couple times a year, and the putter won't be going anywhere anytime soon. My UDI set up is cash money, and the 2016 M2 deep face 3 wood is the best I've ever hit, so for the 3rd straight season, that won't be changing either.

 

As for fairway woods, my advice to everyone who reads this, go pick up a 2016 M2 3 wood of some loft and designation, be it deep face or shallow face, and just play it. With the right shaft set up, you won't find a better feeling, or higher ball speed 3 wood. Nothing out there is better, and we hit EVERYTHING. Also, no new wedge spins more or is better than anything 5-6-7 years old. Just make sure the grind works for you and go play them. Obviously switch the head of at LEAST your most used wedge, and the one you hit out of the sand each season. For a good player, 5-6 feet of extra release from worn grooves is the difference between making birdie and making par.

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Have you tried the CBX against the 2016 m2?

Taylormade Stealth 2 Plus 7*........................Project X Smoke Green 60 TX
Taylormade Stealth Plus 13*.........................Fujikura Ventus Black 8X
Taylormade Stealth Plus 17*.........................Fujikura Ventus Black 9X

Srixon ZX Utility 3..........................................Fujikura Ventus Black 10TX
Srixon ZX Utility 4..........................................Dynamic Gold X7
Srixon ZX7 5-9...............................................Dynamic Gold X7
Cleveland Zipcore Raw 47, 53......................Dynamic Gold X7

Vokey Wedge Works V Grind 59..................Dynamic Gold S400
Yes! Ann.........................................................KBS GPS 120

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I'll post new pics this week for sure. Sorry for the delay on that.

 

I've gone back to my M1 7.5 head and gone back to 70 grams in the driver. I was hitting the ball with about 3mph better ball speed with the lighter shaft, but just wasn't controlling it on the course the way I wanted. A 5 birdie 73 with a double and 4 bogies, and numerous tee shots I didn't like the location of convinced me that I needed to get back to what I'm most comfortable with. The round could easily have been 69-70 without much work, but I killed myself off the tee, which is generally a great strength of my game, and made scoring difficult. No more of that. Back to the Taylormade head and the 70 gram driver shaft. I give up 8-10 yards, but scoring is much easier when the driver is going where you want it to. I'm also hitting it longer than I have with any other 70 gram shaft ever before with Synergy Black, so while I'm shorter than the with the 60 grammer, I've still gained some yardage from last season just based on the lower spin of the Black.

 

Hitting everything under the Sun allows me to make a very informed decision on what to put in play, and although the Callaway drivers really offer top level ball speeds, I hook them constantly. A more neutral biased 440cc Sub Zero and it would go right in the bag. The sad thing is they MAKE this golf club, they just choose not to give the public access to it. The Ping drivers offer tremendous forgiveness, but I over spin them. Titleist lacks ball speed, and spins too much. Believe it or not, the Mizuno GT180 was the best feeling and right there at the top of the ball speed ladder, but the whole one loft thing is just a killer for me. Make this in 7.5 or 8 degree TRUE loft, independent of face angle, and I might just be playing it. F8+ is also very good. A full carbon head would be nicer looking, or maybe black fading into carbon. It just looks a little too much like an M3 carbon copy to my eye, and for better or worse, that affects my confidence with it. Very nice club though, and competitive with the big boys. If any OEM's read this, please, for the love of God, stop with this one loft nonsense. Not everyone hovers the driver at address and manipulates the face square. If you are going to insist on doing this, allow the consumer to order drivers with a measured and exact face loft, independent of face angle.

 

I also solidified that the P790 irons make this game pretty easy with anything resembling a decent swing. My wedges have been set for quite some time, although I do change out fresh heads a couple times a year, and the putter won't be going anywhere anytime soon. My UDI set up is cash money, and the 2016 M2 deep face 3 wood is the best I've ever hit, so for the 3rd straight season, that won't be changing either.

 

As for fairway woods, my advice to everyone who reads this, go pick up a 2016 M2 3 wood of some loft and designation, be it deep face or shallow face, and just play it. With the right shaft set up, you won't find a better feeling, or higher ball speed 3 wood. Nothing out there is better, and we hit EVERYTHING. Also, no new wedge spins more or is better than anything 5-6-7 years old. Just make sure the grind works for you and go play them. Obviously switch the head of at LEAST your most used wedge, and the one you hit out of the sand each season. For a good player, 5-6 feet of extra release from worn grooves is the difference between making birdie and making par.

 

The rogue, and especially the sub zero, is better than the M1, I’m sorry you are incredibly biased, but it’s true

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I'll post new pics this week for sure. Sorry for the delay on that.

 

I've gone back to my M1 7.5 head and gone back to 70 grams in the driver. I was hitting the ball with about 3mph better ball speed with the lighter shaft, but just wasn't controlling it on the course the way I wanted. A 5 birdie 73 with a double and 4 bogies, and numerous tee shots I didn't like the location of convinced me that I needed to get back to what I'm most comfortable with. The round could easily have been 69-70 without much work, but I killed myself off the tee, which is generally a great strength of my game, and made scoring difficult. No more of that. Back to the Taylormade head and the 70 gram driver shaft. I give up 8-10 yards, but scoring is much easier when the driver is going where you want it to. I'm also hitting it longer than I have with any other 70 gram shaft ever before with Synergy Black, so while I'm shorter than the with the 60 grammer, I've still gained some yardage from last season just based on the lower spin of the Black.

 

Hitting everything under the Sun allows me to make a very informed decision on what to put in play, and although the Callaway drivers really offer top level ball speeds, I hook them constantly. A more neutral biased 440cc Sub Zero and it would go right in the bag. The sad thing is they MAKE this golf club, they just choose not to give the public access to it. The Ping drivers offer tremendous forgiveness, but I over spin them. Titleist lacks ball speed, and spins too much. Believe it or not, the Mizuno GT180 was the best feeling and right there at the top of the ball speed ladder, but the whole one loft thing is just a killer for me. Make this in 7.5 or 8 degree TRUE loft, independent of face angle, and I might just be playing it. F8+ is also very good. A full carbon head would be nicer looking, or maybe black fading into carbon. It just looks a little too much like an M3 carbon copy to my eye, and for better or worse, that affects my confidence with it. Very nice club though, and competitive with the big boys. If any OEM's read this, please, for the love of God, stop with this one loft nonsense. Not everyone hovers the driver at address and manipulates the face square. If you are going to insist on doing this, allow the consumer to order drivers with a measured and exact face loft, independent of face angle.

 

I also solidified that the P790 irons make this game pretty easy with anything resembling a decent swing. My wedges have been set for quite some time, although I do change out fresh heads a couple times a year, and the putter won't be going anywhere anytime soon. My UDI set up is cash money, and the 2016 M2 deep face 3 wood is the best I've ever hit, so for the 3rd straight season, that won't be changing either.

 

As for fairway woods, my advice to everyone who reads this, go pick up a 2016 M2 3 wood of some loft and designation, be it deep face or shallow face, and just play it. With the right shaft set up, you won't find a better feeling, or higher ball speed 3 wood. Nothing out there is better, and we hit EVERYTHING. Also, no new wedge spins more or is better than anything 5-6-7 years old. Just make sure the grind works for you and go play them. Obviously switch the head of at LEAST your most used wedge, and the one you hit out of the sand each season. For a good player, 5-6 feet of extra release from worn grooves is the difference between making birdie and making par.

 

The rogue, and especially the sub zero, is better than the M1, I'm sorry you are incredibly biased, but it's true

 

Did you even read what I posted? I praised it on ball speeds, but the internal draw biased makes it hook for me, and the lack of being able to get a low loft, independent of face angle is an issue since I sole the driver at address. I also stated that I would play the 440 version in a heartbeat if they would release it to the public, since I know it comes in low lofts as well as neutral internal bias, and also with high, and low CG models specifically for Tour. Clearly you decided to interpret the facts as posted, as something that I didn't even write. :blink: Also, no one driver is "better" than any other driver, except for the specific individuals that fit into the characteristics of that particular club. Sorry friend, but the one who is clearly biased is YOU.

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I think far too many people continually forget that your CHS is among the highest 1% of all golfers in the world and you have very grooved, very positive AoA driver swing. What works for you, is very specific to YOU.

 

I know you have access to anything and have done immense amounts of testing and a 7.5 degree, open faced, flat lie angle, TM M1 with a 70tx synergy black tipped an inch is the greatest set up in the world FOR YOU, and maybe a few dozen other people on the planet.

 

That club would MAYBE fit about 1 in 100 readers on this board, yet people fail to understand that it won’t fit them and want it because your personal test numbers are great with it.

 

I swing 110 at +1 AoA and use a 10.5* head at 43.5” with a 1* closed face. Your club would be utterly and completely worthless for me....but I know that.

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I'll post new pics this week for sure. Sorry for the delay on that.

 

I've gone back to my M1 7.5 head and gone back to 70 grams in the driver. I was hitting the ball with about 3mph better ball speed with the lighter shaft, but just wasn't controlling it on the course the way I wanted. A 5 birdie 73 with a double and 4 bogies, and numerous tee shots I didn't like the location of convinced me that I needed to get back to what I'm most comfortable with. The round could easily have been 69-70 without much work, but I killed myself off the tee, which is generally a great strength of my game, and made scoring difficult. No more of that. Back to the Taylormade head and the 70 gram driver shaft. I give up 8-10 yards, but scoring is much easier when the driver is going where you want it to. I'm also hitting it longer than I have with any other 70 gram shaft ever before with Synergy Black, so while I'm shorter than the with the 60 grammer, I've still gained some yardage from last season just based on the lower spin of the Black.

 

Hitting everything under the Sun allows me to make a very informed decision on what to put in play, and although the Callaway drivers really offer top level ball speeds, I hook them constantly. A more neutral biased 440cc Sub Zero and it would go right in the bag. The sad thing is they MAKE this golf club, they just choose not to give the public access to it. The Ping drivers offer tremendous forgiveness, but I over spin them. Titleist lacks ball speed, and spins too much. Believe it or not, the Mizuno GT180 was the best feeling and right there at the top of the ball speed ladder, but the whole one loft thing is just a killer for me. Make this in 7.5 or 8 degree TRUE loft, independent of face angle, and I might just be playing it. F8+ is also very good. A full carbon head would be nicer looking, or maybe black fading into carbon. It just looks a little too much like an M3 carbon copy to my eye, and for better or worse, that affects my confidence with it. Very nice club though, and competitive with the big boys. If any OEM's read this, please, for the love of God, stop with this one loft nonsense. Not everyone hovers the driver at address and manipulates the face square. If you are going to insist on doing this, allow the consumer to order drivers with a measured and exact face loft, independent of face angle.

 

I also solidified that the P790 irons make this game pretty easy with anything resembling a decent swing. My wedges have been set for quite some time, although I do change out fresh heads a couple times a year, and the putter won't be going anywhere anytime soon. My UDI set up is cash money, and the 2016 M2 deep face 3 wood is the best I've ever hit, so for the 3rd straight season, that won't be changing either.

 

As for fairway woods, my advice to everyone who reads this, go pick up a 2016 M2 3 wood of some loft and designation, be it deep face or shallow face, and just play it. With the right shaft set up, you won't find a better feeling, or higher ball speed 3 wood. Nothing out there is better, and we hit EVERYTHING. Also, no new wedge spins more or is better than anything 5-6-7 years old. Just make sure the grind works for you and go play them. Obviously switch the head of at LEAST your most used wedge, and the one you hit out of the sand each season. For a good player, 5-6 feet of extra release from worn grooves is the difference between making birdie and making par.

 

The rogue, and especially the sub zero, is better than the M1, I'm sorry you are incredibly biased, but it's true

 

Did you even read what I posted? I praised it on ball speeds, but the internal draw biased makes it hook for me, and the lack of being able to get a low loft, independent of face angle is an issue since I sole the driver at address. I also stated that I would play the 440 version in a heartbeat if they would release it to the public, since I know it comes in low lofts as well as neutral internal bias, and also with high, and low CG models specifically for Tour. Clearly you decided to interpret the facts as posted, as something that I didn't even write. :blink: Also, no one driver is "better" than any other driver, except for the specific individuals that fit into the characteristics of that particular club. Sorry friend, but the one who is clearly biased is YOU.

 

I agree, which is why I take reviews and endorsements with a grain of salt. If a review of a particular product is good, I may give it a try to see if it works for me, but I would never purchase a golf club based on a review...let alone an endorsement.

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I'll post new pics this week for sure. Sorry for the delay on that.

 

I've gone back to my M1 7.5 head and gone back to 70 grams in the driver. I was hitting the ball with about 3mph better ball speed with the lighter shaft, but just wasn't controlling it on the course the way I wanted. A 5 birdie 73 with a double and 4 bogies, and numerous tee shots I didn't like the location of convinced me that I needed to get back to what I'm most comfortable with. The round could easily have been 69-70 without much work, but I killed myself off the tee, which is generally a great strength of my game, and made scoring difficult. No more of that. Back to the Taylormade head and the 70 gram driver shaft. I give up 8-10 yards, but scoring is much easier when the driver is going where you want it to. I'm also hitting it longer than I have with any other 70 gram shaft ever before with Synergy Black, so while I'm shorter than the with the 60 grammer, I've still gained some yardage from last season just based on the lower spin of the Black.

 

Hitting everything under the Sun allows me to make a very informed decision on what to put in play, and although the Callaway drivers really offer top level ball speeds, I hook them constantly. A more neutral biased 440cc Sub Zero and it would go right in the bag. The sad thing is they MAKE this golf club, they just choose not to give the public access to it. The Ping drivers offer tremendous forgiveness, but I over spin them. Titleist lacks ball speed, and spins too much. Believe it or not, the Mizuno GT180 was the best feeling and right there at the top of the ball speed ladder, but the whole one loft thing is just a killer for me. Make this in 7.5 or 8 degree TRUE loft, independent of face angle, and I might just be playing it. F8+ is also very good. A full carbon head would be nicer looking, or maybe black fading into carbon. It just looks a little too much like an M3 carbon copy to my eye, and for better or worse, that affects my confidence with it. Very nice club though, and competitive with the big boys. If any OEM's read this, please, for the love of God, stop with this one loft nonsense. Not everyone hovers the driver at address and manipulates the face square. If you are going to insist on doing this, allow the consumer to order drivers with a measured and exact face loft, independent of face angle.

 

I also solidified that the P790 irons make this game pretty easy with anything resembling a decent swing. My wedges have been set for quite some time, although I do change out fresh heads a couple times a year, and the putter won't be going anywhere anytime soon. My UDI set up is cash money, and the 2016 M2 deep face 3 wood is the best I've ever hit, so for the 3rd straight season, that won't be changing either.

 

As for fairway woods, my advice to everyone who reads this, go pick up a 2016 M2 3 wood of some loft and designation, be it deep face or shallow face, and just play it. With the right shaft set up, you won't find a better feeling, or higher ball speed 3 wood. Nothing out there is better, and we hit EVERYTHING. Also, no new wedge spins more or is better than anything 5-6-7 years old. Just make sure the grind works for you and go play them. Obviously switch the head of at LEAST your most used wedge, and the one you hit out of the sand each season. For a good player, 5-6 feet of extra release from worn grooves is the difference between making birdie and making par.

 

The rogue, and especially the sub zero, is better than the M1, I'm sorry you are incredibly biased, but it's true

 

the way you argue make you biased as well... He said for him...(124mph club and speed and AOA of +3 or 4). I prefere the m1 2017 over m3/m4 and the rogue as well. biased am i?

Ping G430LST w/ TPT 14HI 
Ping G430 Max w/ synergy green 80tx
Honma TW-U forged 18* W/ KBS Prototype 95X
Callaway TCB w/ LAgolf L-series 5
Titleist SM8 50/56  W/ LAgolf

Callaway Jaws Raw 60Z /Kbs 610
Axis 1 Rose model 35.5''
Swing: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRK_GXV7rDg"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRK_GXV7rDg[/url] (Driver FV)
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pszXHplqx4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pszXHplqx4[/url] (DTL)

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I think far too many people continually forget that your CHS is among the highest 1% of all golfers in the world and you have very grooved, very positive AoA driver swing. What works for you, is very specific to YOU.

 

I know you have access to anything and have done immense amounts of testing and a 7.5 degree, open faced, flat lie angle, TM M1 with a 70tx synergy black tipped an inch is the greatest set up in the world FOR YOU, and maybe a few dozen other people on the planet.

 

That club would MAYBE fit about 1 in 100 readers on this board, yet people fail to understand that it won’t fit them and want it because your personal test numbers are great with it.

 

I swing 110 at +1 AoA and use a 10.5* head at 43.5” with a 1* closed face. Your club would be utterly and completely worthless for me....but I know that.

 

Absolutely. Proper fitting is very important. And when it comes to product, there are so many great club heads and shafts out there that nobody has to play what doesn't suit them. I probably talk as many guys out of buying something like Synergy Black as do buy it. There is tremendous product out there for every player. Now saying that, I have a pretty specific set of needs for a driver I put into play, that probably fit 1/1000 players at best.

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I'll post new pics this week for sure. Sorry for the delay on that.

 

I've gone back to my M1 7.5 head and gone back to 70 grams in the driver. I was hitting the ball with about 3mph better ball speed with the lighter shaft, but just wasn't controlling it on the course the way I wanted. A 5 birdie 73 with a double and 4 bogies, and numerous tee shots I didn't like the location of convinced me that I needed to get back to what I'm most comfortable with. The round could easily have been 69-70 without much work, but I killed myself off the tee, which is generally a great strength of my game, and made scoring difficult. No more of that. Back to the Taylormade head and the 70 gram driver shaft. I give up 8-10 yards, but scoring is much easier when the driver is going where you want it to. I'm also hitting it longer than I have with any other 70 gram shaft ever before with Synergy Black, so while I'm shorter than the with the 60 grammer, I've still gained some yardage from last season just based on the lower spin of the Black.

 

Hitting everything under the Sun allows me to make a very informed decision on what to put in play, and although the Callaway drivers really offer top level ball speeds, I hook them constantly. A more neutral biased 440cc Sub Zero and it would go right in the bag. The sad thing is they MAKE this golf club, they just choose not to give the public access to it. The Ping drivers offer tremendous forgiveness, but I over spin them. Titleist lacks ball speed, and spins too much. Believe it or not, the Mizuno GT180 was the best feeling and right there at the top of the ball speed ladder, but the whole one loft thing is just a killer for me. Make this in 7.5 or 8 degree TRUE loft, independent of face angle, and I might just be playing it. F8+ is also very good. A full carbon head would be nicer looking, or maybe black fading into carbon. It just looks a little too much like an M3 carbon copy to my eye, and for better or worse, that affects my confidence with it. Very nice club though, and competitive with the big boys. If any OEM's read this, please, for the love of God, stop with this one loft nonsense. Not everyone hovers the driver at address and manipulates the face square. If you are going to insist on doing this, allow the consumer to order drivers with a measured and exact face loft, independent of face angle.

 

I also solidified that the P790 irons make this game pretty easy with anything resembling a decent swing. My wedges have been set for quite some time, although I do change out fresh heads a couple times a year, and the putter won't be going anywhere anytime soon. My UDI set up is cash money, and the 2016 M2 deep face 3 wood is the best I've ever hit, so for the 3rd straight season, that won't be changing either.

 

As for fairway woods, my advice to everyone who reads this, go pick up a 2016 M2 3 wood of some loft and designation, be it deep face or shallow face, and just play it. With the right shaft set up, you won't find a better feeling, or higher ball speed 3 wood. Nothing out there is better, and we hit EVERYTHING. Also, no new wedge spins more or is better than anything 5-6-7 years old. Just make sure the grind works for you and go play them. Obviously switch the head of at LEAST your most used wedge, and the one you hit out of the sand each season. For a good player, 5-6 feet of extra release from worn grooves is the difference between making birdie and making par.

 

The rogue, and especially the sub zero, is better than the M1, I'm sorry you are incredibly biased, but it's true

 

Did you even read what I posted? I praised it on ball speeds, but the internal draw biased makes it hook for me, and the lack of being able to get a low loft, independent of face angle is an issue since I sole the driver at address. I also stated that I would play the 440 version in a heartbeat if they would release it to the public, since I know it comes in low lofts as well as neutral internal bias, and also with high, and low CG models specifically for Tour. Clearly you decided to interpret the facts as posted, as something that I didn't even write. :blink: Also, no one driver is "better" than any other driver, except for the specific individuals that fit into the characteristics of that particular club. Sorry friend, but the one who is clearly biased is YOU.

 

I agree, which is why I take reviews and endorsements with a grain of salt. If a review of a particular product is good, I may give it a try to see if it works for me, but I would never purchase a golf club based on a review...let alone an endorsement.

 

Reviews should include multiple players, data sets, swing analysis and commentary. One player reviews are simply one thing, entertainment. Without all that data and info, along with strict control of all specs makes a review nothing more than one guy's opinion.

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What 2016 m2 fairway model are you referring to? The deep face of standard? As far as ball speeds

TM SiM 9* Kuro Kage XT 60 TX

TM SiM 15* Diamana D+ LTD 70 X

Titleist u500 2 Diamana Tensei Blue 90X, 4 DG TI S400

Titleist T100 5-6 DG TI S400

Titleist MB 7-PW DG TIS400
Artisan TW/TGR Blade 50*, Artisan 55R, 59TW S400
001 TW Proto

WITB http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1183320-cota0429-nike-oven-baked-witb-52215/

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What 2016 m2 fairway model are you referring to? The deep face of standard? As far as ball speeds

 

All of them are very good. Even the retail had. The retail has some draw bias, the Deep face hits a little flatter, and the standard tour head is very much like the retail without the draw bias. Which one you choose depends on which you need. All of them are excellent from a ball speed perspective and suit a different type of player.

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What 2016 m2 fairway model are you referring to? The deep face of standard? As far as ball speeds

 

All of them are very good. Even the retail had. The retail has some draw bias, the Deep face hits a little flatter, and the standard tour head is very much like the retail without the draw bias. Which one you choose depends on which you need. All of them are excellent from a ball speed perspective and suit a different type of player.

 

Thanks. Building a 2nd bag so I’m going to give it a go!

TM SiM 9* Kuro Kage XT 60 TX

TM SiM 15* Diamana D+ LTD 70 X

Titleist u500 2 Diamana Tensei Blue 90X, 4 DG TI S400

Titleist T100 5-6 DG TI S400

Titleist MB 7-PW DG TIS400
Artisan TW/TGR Blade 50*, Artisan 55R, 59TW S400
001 TW Proto

WITB http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1183320-cota0429-nike-oven-baked-witb-52215/

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What 2016 m2 fairway model are you referring to? The deep face of standard? As far as ball speeds

 

All of them are very good. Even the retail had. The retail has some draw bias, the Deep face hits a little flatter, and the standard tour head is very much like the retail without the draw bias. Which one you choose depends on which you need. All of them are excellent from a ball speed perspective and suit a different type of player.

 

Thanks. Building a 2nd bag so I’m going to give it a go!

 

I notice you play the Tour shallow Aeroburner. The M2 is just like a better version of that head. You should really like it.

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I didn’t realize you went back to the 460 version of the 16 m1. Does that work better overall than the 430 or is it because you could only get those specs in the 460?

 

If they made a 7.5 in the 430 I would rather play that head for sure. Unfortunately that doesn't exist. Very low lofted heads are tough to find these days outside of Tour issue. I know there is a 7.5 G400 Max Tour for Finau and a 8 degree 440 Sub Zero for Noren but neither is made available. But yes I would rather play the smaller head.

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I didn’t realize you went back to the 460 version of the 16 m1. Does that work better overall than the 430 or is it because you could only get those specs in the 460?

 

If they made a 7.5 in the 430 I would rather play that head for sure. Unfortunately that doesn't exist. Very low lofted heads are tough to find these days outside of Tour issue. I know there is a 7.5 G400 Max Tour for Finau and a 8 degree 440 Sub Zero for Noren but neither is made available. But yes I would rather play the smaller head.

 

That’s what I was thinking. I’ve debated in trying the tour issue 460 to see if it gives me a little more forgiveness.

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I didn't realize you went back to the 460 version of the 16 m1. Does that work better overall than the 430 or is it because you could only get those specs in the 460?

 

If they made a 7.5 in the 430 I would rather play that head for sure. Unfortunately that doesn't exist. Very low lofted heads are tough to find these days outside of Tour issue. I know there is a 7.5 G400 Max Tour for Finau and a 8 degree 440 Sub Zero for Noren but neither is made available. But yes I would rather play the smaller head.

 

That's what I was thinking. I've debated in trying the tour issue 460 to see if it gives me a little more forgiveness.

 

It definitely does to a degree, but I have to slide the rear slider all the way up on the 460 head so it pretty much negates most of that. I'd strongly prefer to play a 430 or 440 head, but I've been unsuccessful in getting ahold of one with 7.5 area loft. I'm sure there are some low lofted 8.5 Tour heads that are lower, but not easy to find in the 430 M1. I've never seen a 440 M1 or M3 head lower than 8 degrees. I really do wish it wasn't so hard to find lower lofts these days.

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I didn’t realize you went back to the 460 version of the 16 m1. Does that work better overall than the 430 or is it because you could only get those specs in the 460?

 

If they made a 7.5 in the 430 I would rather play that head for sure. Unfortunately that doesn't exist. Very low lofted heads are tough to find these days outside of Tour issue. I know there is a 7.5 G400 Max Tour for Finau and a 8 degree 440 Sub Zero for Noren but neither is made available. But yes I would rather play the smaller head.

 

How much spin do you need to knock off the G400LST? If you have an 8.5 you could try what I did. I removed the stock 10 gram weight in the back and put 10 gram melt low and forward. That much weight distribution was easily able to affect draw or fade bias and it knocked a good 250rpm or more of spin off and obviously feels and sounds 10x better.

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I picked up a T3 M2 Deep face based on your recommendation above - can't wait to try it out!

 

I can't imagine anyone not being happy with that head and Tensei Pro White combo. I've had literally five other players hit my 3 wood and replicate the exact same set up.

 

It’s a good combo, I’ve played it close to two years and just recently switched to a 917 F2 / Tensei W 80. What I like most about the M2 DF is that it’s probably the only 3W I have ever owned that I’ve never hit too high. Penetrating bullets! You can still hit it high but it’s never one of those floaters that makes your heart skip a beat. The one big thing that the F2 has on it is forgiveness and mainly distance control. My miss is heel side and the DF M2 that miss can be a huge distance loss since the sweet spot is the size of a pencil eraser. I’ve always thought that the 917F3 was the closest comparison to the DF but possible even better because it has a bigger sweet spot than the DF. Right now the F2 does everything I want, it’s so easy to hit, long, and versatile.

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I picked up a T3 M2 Deep face based on your recommendation above - can't wait to try it out!

 

I can't imagine anyone not being happy with that head and Tensei Pro White combo. I've had literally five other players hit my 3 wood and replicate the exact same set up.

 

It’s a good combo, I’ve played it close to two years and just recently switched to a 917 F2 / Tensei W 80. What I like most about the M2 DF is that it’s probably the only 3W I have ever owned that I’ve never hit too high. Penetrating bullets! You can still hit it high but it’s never one of those floaters that makes your heart skip a beat. The one big thing that the F2 has on it is forgiveness and mainly distance control. My miss is heel side and the DF M2 that miss can be a huge distance loss since the sweet spot is the size of a pencil eraser. I’ve always thought that the 917F3 was the closest comparison to the DF but possible even better because it has a bigger sweet spot than the DF. Right now the F2 does everything I want, it’s so easy to hit, long, and versatile.

 

Good feedback. I've never hit one of those with a Pro White in it. As for the deep face, I never miss it heel side, just occasionally slightly toe side and honestly that miss is controllable and still quite long. I do agree with you that it kind of reminds me of the P790 of 3 woods. Higher than you think it's going to hit, but low spin and ridiculously long hitting.

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What 2016 m2 fairway model are you referring to? The deep face of standard? As far as ball speeds

 

All of them are very good. Even the retail had. The retail has some draw bias, the Deep face hits a little flatter, and the standard tour head is very much like the retail without the draw bias. Which one you choose depends on which you need. All of them are excellent from a ball speed perspective and suit a different type of player.

 

Thanks. Building a 2nd bag so I’m going to give it a go!

 

I notice you play the Tour shallow Aeroburner. The M2 is just like a better version of that head. You should really like it.

 

Damn I’m sold now lol thx

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WITB http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1183320-cota0429-nike-oven-baked-witb-52215/

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I picked up a T3 M2 Deep face based on your recommendation above - can't wait to try it out!

 

I can't imagine anyone not being happy with that head and Tensei Pro White combo. I've had literally five other players hit my 3 wood and replicate the exact same set up.

 

I had a t3 m2 df with a Tensei Pro Blue 90tx and it was alright but I ended up going back to my TI 16 m1. I probably should of tried the pro white like I wanted to but with playing blueboard 103x for a long time I thought the PB 90 would give me that same holy grail I was looking for but it didn’t. I probably should of kept it considering when I tested it my elbow was so far gone I couldn’t swing the club exactly how I wanted to before surgery.

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