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50 * Gap wedge bounce


Dntdodoubles

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Im looking to replace my 714 ap2 gap wedge with a sm7 50* wedge. I have the choice between 8* and 12* of bounce F grind. This will be used for shots 115-125 yards. Will be used for full shots sometimes 3/4 shots. My other wedges are the ap2 PW, vokey 54* 10* bounce S grind, and 60* 8* bounce M grind. I play on semi hard surfaces and take a divot on the shallower side. I am a 12 handicap going down.

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8 is fine. Lower bounce for firmer surfaces and shallower swings is the general rule.

 

I use as much bounce as I can get. I’m a Digger and play soft conditions.

 

Would it make sense to go for 50-8, 54-10, to 50-8? I use my 54 for 3/4- full shots and haven’t had a problem with fat shots with the 10degree bounce

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I'd suggest the 50-08 knowing no more than I do.

 

Couple of things...

  • If you're not a steep wedge player (shallow divot) you don't need that added bounce.

  • F Grind already is meant primarily for full shots, and isn't prone to digging as is.

  • Semi hard surfaces are also going to prevent digging as well.

  • I've always felt grind trumps bounce when it comes to wedges. And as said before, the F grind is a Full grind meaning little has been modified/taken off and it will naturally play a lot like a weaker set PW.

Like Jag said above - shallow swing + hard surface = less bounce, steep swing + softer surface = more bounce (generally)

 

 

 

If you can, take some tape and a hitting board and this chart will tell you a lot about your impact characteristics with wedges. There's always the chance that you're maybe not as shallow of a swinger as you think, and the hard surface it just reducing your divot size. Worth at least looking into to get the best possible outcome from your wedge setup.

 

 

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I am also actively looking for a 50 and 08 bounce seems to be the OK fit on paper.

I have 52 54 55 58 59 Vokeys so the 50 is the next One !!

Just bought MP37's so with MP60 or MP37 can go from 9 iron to

50 54 58 or 50 55 59. My 54/55 and 59 are wider sole and work in the Sand!

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I'd suggest the 50-08 knowing no more than I do.

 

Couple of things...

  • If you're not a steep wedge player (shallow divot) you don't need that added bounce.

  • F Grind already is meant primarily for full shots, and isn't prone to digging as is.

  • Semi hard surfaces are also going to prevent digging as well.

  • I've always felt grind trumps bounce when it comes to wedges. And as said before, the F grind is a Full grind meaning little has been modified/taken off and it will naturally play a lot like a weaker set PW.

Like Jag said above - shallow swing + hard surface = less bounce, steep swing + softer surface = more bounce (generally)

 

 

 

If you can, take some tape and a hitting board and this chart will tell you a lot about your impact characteristics with wedges. There's always the chance that you're maybe not as shallow of a swinger as you think, and the hard surface it just reducing your divot size. Worth at least looking into to get the best possible outcome from your wedge setup.

 

Great info thank you!

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They are both F grinds, same club bascially. You wont be able to tell a difference if you only use a 50 for full swings like most people do.

 

I owned an SM6 50.08 and currently have a 50.12. They are pretty much the same. If i had to choose id go 50.12.

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I've conducted numerous Titleist Thursdays, Wedge Fittings, and general demo days, and I almost never order full swing wedges with the minimal bounce. Almost always 50.12, 52.12, and for 54º (if this is primarily a full swing club) in the 14º bounce. The bounce on full swings AS DESCRIBED BY VOKEY HIMSELF will significantly contribute not only to turf interaction, but to transfer the energy of the club head to the golf ball by converting the descending blow into forward momentum. Forward momentum of the club head creates more consistent ball speed AND trajectory (vitally important for consistency and distance control). Off the top of my head the only players I've recommended the lower bounce options are players that can prove to me that they can consistently deliver the club through the ball on a significantly shallow AoA (aka pickers).

 

Hope this helps!

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I agree 100%... Most bounce you can get on full shots. If you can have a club maker blunt the leading edge, it's even better. I play 50.12 and I am a sweeper.

 

 

I've conducted numerous Titleist Thursdays, Wedge Fittings, and general demo days, and I almost never order full swing wedges with the minimal bounce. Almost always 50.12, 52.12, and for 54º (if this is primarily a full swing club) in the 14º bounce. The bounce on full swings AS DESCRIBED BY VOKEY HIMSELF will significantly contribute not only to turf interaction, but to transfer the energy of the club head to the golf ball by converting the descending blow into forward momentum. Forward momentum of the club head creates more consistent ball speed AND trajectory (vitally important for consistency and distance control). Off the top of my head the only players I've recommended the lower bounce options are players that can prove to me that they can consistently deliver the club through the ball on a significantly shallow AoA (aka pickers).

 

Hope this helps!

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I agree 100%... Most bounce you can get on full shots. If you can have a club maker blunt the leading edge, it's even better. I play 50.12 and I am a sweeper.

 

 

I've conducted numerous Titleist Thursdays, Wedge Fittings, and general demo days, and I almost never order full swing wedges with the minimal bounce. Almost always 50.12, 52.12, and for 54º (if this is primarily a full swing club) in the 14º bounce. The bounce on full swings AS DESCRIBED BY VOKEY HIMSELF will significantly contribute not only to turf interaction, but to transfer the energy of the club head to the golf ball by converting the descending blow into forward momentum. Forward momentum of the club head creates more consistent ball speed AND trajectory (vitally important for consistency and distance control). Off the top of my head the only players I've recommended the lower bounce options are players that can prove to me that they can consistently deliver the club through the ball on a significantly shallow AoA (aka pickers).

 

Hope this helps!

Now I am second guessing my purchase. I got a good deal on it so I will use it and see how it works for me.

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Im having the same dilemma in choosing which bounce to go with for a 50 degree... i would say i play very firm conditions on most occasions but i play 10 degrees of bounce with the 46, 54, and 60 so i dont see either option being a drastic difference

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Im having the same dilemma in choosing which bounce to go with for a 50 degree... i would say i play very firm conditions on most occasions but i play 10 degrees of bounce with the 46, 54, and 60 so i dont see either option being a drastic difference

Assuming you will use your 50º for mostly full swing shots, you'll want the 12º bounce. Since this club is primarily an extension of your irons and PW, the increase in bounce angle progression makes sense to continue in this manner. The 46.10 that you play is the most available bounce ever offered in the 46º Vokey (used to be 46.08)... don't go 50.08!!! Your 54 and 60 I'm assuming are S-grinds... fit the 50.12 into this set and it's $$$. Cheers!

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TSR2 18º Hyb  - Recoil Proto Hybrid 85F5
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T100 #5-P - Modus 120X

SM10 Raw 50.12F @ 51º, 56.12D, 60.08M @ 61º - Mouds 120X
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I hit the 8* off of a soft sandy driving range and hit it well. Would there be a significant difference in the 12*?

The additional bounce will be more forgiving on shots hit slightly fat and will help tremendously out of the rough and softer conditions. It will be perfectly fine on tight firm lies too! Go with the 12º... trust me!!! It will be your "jack of all trades" bounce for the gap.

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TSR3 10º Driver - LinQ M40X Blue 6F5     

TSR2 15º Fwy - LinQ M40X Blue 7F5     

TSR2 18º Hyb  - Recoil Proto Hybrid 85F5
T200 #4 @ 1º Weak - Modus 120X

T100 #5-P - Modus 120X

SM10 Raw 50.12F @ 51º, 56.12D, 60.08M @ 61º - Mouds 120X
Odyssey TEN - SuperStroke PIstol 2.0

Pro V1 

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I see almost no situation where going less than 12 degrees of bounce is beneficial. As Stan Utley says “I have no problem hitting a flop shot off the parking lot with 12 degrees of bounce on my 58”. More bounce will be more forgiving, period (as long as you know how to use bounce). Also, having a gap wedge with 12 degrees of bounce is wonderful for those very difficult long bunker shots.

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I don't know if this will help any, but I'll offer input anyways. I play a Cleveland 52 bent to a 50 w/ 10 bounce. I have no clue if or how the 2 degree bend affects my bounce. As far as I know, my Cleveland 2 dot is basically the F grind. I do know I feel I am a great wedge player, though I rarely use wedges for full shots. My handicap is slightly lower than yours, trending, if not at single digit. For whatever that is worth, not much imo.

 

I play on similar surfaces, Bermuda, no dollar bill sized divots where I'm from. I never have trouble playing any shot I can imagine. Though I do wonder if different grinds or bounces would help, I don't worry much because I also don't want to tamper with one of my strong suits. I'm not convinced it matters so much to people of our skill level and I would maybe just encourage you to be confident in whatever decision you make, and then go play golf from there and quit thinking about it for now. Let us know if you see a real statistical improvement after you have some time. From an interested standpoint.

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I don't know if this will help any, but I'll offer input anyways. I play a Cleveland 52 bent to a 50 w/ 10 bounce. I have no clue if or how the 2 degree bend affects my bounce. As far as I know, my Cleveland 2 dot is basically the F grind. I do know I feel I am a great wedge player, though I rarely use wedges for full shots. My handicap is slightly lower than yours, trending, if not at single digit. For whatever that is worth, not much imo.

 

I play on similar surfaces, Bermuda, no dollar bill sized divots where I'm from. I never have trouble playing any shot I can imagine. Though I do wonder if different grinds or bounces would help, I don't worry much because I also don't want to tamper with one of my strong suits. I'm not convinced it matters so much to people of our skill level and I would maybe just encourage you to be confident in whatever decision you make, and then go play golf from there and quit thinking about it for now. Let us know if you see a real statistical improvement after you have some time. From an interested standpoint.

Bending your gap wedge strong lowers the bounce. Just think about what bounce is. It’s the amount of area/angle on the sole of the wedge that interacts with the ground. The more you make a move with the leading edge of your club the more bounce you are removing from the club. Making contact with a leading edge move on a wedge takes away all your room for error which will result in either perfect, thin, or chunked shot (almost nothing inbetween). Learn to use your bounce correctly and it will 100% change your wedge game. Start by going to your short game area, find some fluffy burmuda lies, and bottom your swing/pitch out before you hit the ball and when you bottom that pitch out have the back of the sole hit first. Your area for a successful shot will increase immensely. Even if you chunk it a little your miss will be immensely better than a miss with the leading edge.

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