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Joe Powell Iron Blades


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Hye to everyone,

This is a doublon topic with the one posted on the GolfWRX / Bag Room / Equipment section, but as adviced by @no-catchy-nickname, I re-post here...

 

Thus, I'm a french golfer, and a player since a little less than 10 years. I'm a real equipment fan (tried, bought, sold... more than a dozen of iron sets) and love how blades look like ,even if my 19 hdcp does not allow me to use them the way it was meant ! 🙂

 

I recently bought a vintage Joe Powell iron blade set (3 - SW) on eBay (for a very decent price (<50$) shipping included !!!)

 

I will change their grips soon, fix the loose ferrules, make them shine again, polish heads and clean shafts...

 

But i'm desperatly searching info about those beauties...

All I know is that the set is Joe Powell's, mounted on "True Temper Finest quality Made in USA " shafts ... and that's all. Auction mentionned Stiff, but no argument for this (except the actual stiffness of the shafts

///Edit: The Apex 2 was mistakenly quote by the former owner, actually not Apex 2 shafts ! question cleared///

 

Do any vintage golf lover / former user of those blades could fill me with more info about those ?

 

Thanks a lot from over-the-seas ! 😉

 

See pictures below :

JoePowell-Blades-1.jpgJoePowell-Blades-2.jpgJoePowell-Blades-6.jpgJoePowell-Blades-7.jpgJoePowell-Blades-8.jpgJoePowell-Blades-9.jpgJoePowell-Blades-10.jpgJoePowell-Blades-11.jpgJoePowell-Blades-3.jpgJoePowell-Blades-4.jpgJoePowell-Blades-5.jpgJoePowell-Blades-11.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-1.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-2.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-3.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-4.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-5.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-6.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-7.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-8.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-9.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-10.jpg

JoePowell-Blades-11.jpg

Edited by Beniben
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Lovely looking irons - but the Apex 2 stiff shafts makes no sense. Apex was a proprietary Hogan shaft. Some repair shops or custom builders certainly put them into other heads, but Apex 2 was a soft rather than stiff flex. There are no shaft bands, so if I were you, I'd ask the seller about this and how they identified them.

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Out of business long ago but here's some basic information...

 

http://www.hellotrade.com/joe-powell-golf/profile.html

All Forged, all the time.
The Sets that see regular playing time...
67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter.
71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter.
95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter.
2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.

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I saw that auction as well !

 

I actually have a brand new never hit set of these ... the shafts are Joe Powell Golf P.T.F. Frequency Matched (mine are Stiff flex). Black ferrules. Green Golf Pride Victory grips.

 

Think they are originally from the mid 1980s, but don't hold me to that.

[i]"Don't play too much golf ... two rounds a day are plenty" [/i]

[b]Harry Vardon[/b] (1870-1937)

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I saw that auction as well !

 

I actually have a brand new never hit set of these ... the shafts are Joe Powell Golf P.T.F. Frequency Matched (mine are Stiff flex). Black ferrules. Green Golf Pride Victory grips.

 

Think they are originally from the mid 1980s, but don't hold me to that.

 

"new never hit"

 

Why?!?

All Forged, all the time.
The Sets that see regular playing time...
67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter.
71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter.
95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter.
2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.

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I saw that auction as well !

 

I actually have a brand new never hit set of these ... the shafts are Joe Powell Golf P.T.F. Frequency Matched (mine are Stiff flex). Black ferrules. Green Golf Pride Victory grips.

 

Think they are originally from the mid 1980s, but don't hold me to that.

 

"new never hit"

 

Why?!?

 

They just haven't made it into the playing rotation yet ... I'm not exactly short of options :)

[i]"Don't play too much golf ... two rounds a day are plenty" [/i]

[b]Harry Vardon[/b] (1870-1937)

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@TimV : Thanks for info ;)

@Blade Junkie : Thanks for the update on tha shafts.. It actually looks like quite stiff shafts compared to my wedges shafts (DG S400 Tour Issue)

 

@Steele : Apex2 seems out of the question now, since it appears that it was a mistake of the former owner. It surprised me as well since it's nowhere close to a senior flex... More like stiff one, and thus "Blade junkie" answer would fit better ;)

 

Concerning the Ferrules, heating them lightly do replace them will be challenging... (If i melt/brek one, I'll have to reshaft the club, and I haven't try it yet...)

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If you're concerned with melting the ferrules, use the hot water method. Fail safe. Heat a pot of water to boiling. Remove from heat, place the club head in the water (over the ferrule) for 10 - 15 seconds. Makes the plastic ferrule pliable. Use a piece of rubber (I use a cut down old grip), slide the ferrule back into place and let cool. If it still feels loose, a spot of 'super glue' will hold it in place. Clean them up with acetone. Easy Peasy.

 

Once the grips are removed, there may be printing on the shaft butt that will offer a clue to what shafts are installed. BTW, very nice set of MB irons.

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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@TimV : Thanks for info ;)

@Blade Junkie : Thanks for the update on tha shafts.. It actually looks like quite stiff shafts compared to my wedges shafts (DG S400 Tour Issue)

 

@Steele : Apex2 seems out of the question now, since it appears that it was a mistake of the former owner. It surprised me as well since it's nowhere close to a senior flex... More like stiff one, and thus "Blade junkie" answer would fit better ;)

 

Concerning the Ferrules, heating them lightly do replace them will be challenging... (If i melt/brek one, I'll have to reshaft the club, and I haven't try it yet...)

 

SWEET ! It looks like a combination of several models from Hogan irons.

 

Guessing when they said Apex 2 shafts, meant the shafts were taken from a set of Apex 2 irons.

 

No shaft bands probably because they polish the heck of it , I would look in the shaft from the grip end with a flash light when you changed the grips. Just to exam for evidence of rust ( since they did the heavy polishing on the exterior )

You don't want to put a set of rusty shaft in play.

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Ferrules can also be adjusted by holding them over a steaming kettle spout but ensure that you cover before moving,it will be HOT!

I stocked Joe Powell clubs in the shop I ran in the early 90's,the agent had previously been the Hogan rep and wanted a top quality line of clubs to replace them,I carried woods,wedges and putters but no iron sets as Mizuno,Titleist and Wilson Staff were strong sellers,I don't think the Joe Powell concept caught on in the UK because it was that transitional period of metal woods taking over,the golf boom was on and newcomers to the game were largely incapable of understanding the quality of the Powell range of clubs.

It was all Pringle clothing,Mizuno irons,Mizuno/Wilson tour bags,thank you Sir Nick!

I had a free(!) Powell 4-wood which was beautiful,stupidly sold to a member and regretted ever since...

Bonne chance!

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OK, then if I do a recap, I know :

- These are Forged Blade Joe Powell Model

- Issued probably in the late 80's-90's

- Shafts seemed to be Joe Powell Golf P.T.F. Frequency Matched

- Ferrules look like Ben Hogan ones...

 

I'm still wondering what's the real stiffness (but damn, they look like stiff one compared to my Wedges' DG Tour Issue S40) // main specs of those shafts (ball flight, flexion point..)

 

And if I'm ever gonna have the Balls to play them :swoon:

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Well,

I've received some of the tooles I'll need to refurbish those beauties...

 

My Bosch GRO 12V-35 rotary tool with a lot of Dremel Supplies...

 

And I choose the PW to begin with...

I think I'll try to document the process for the other irons... since I think I've found the steps to reduce/"erase" playing marks, bop, slashings on the sole of the irons.

 

I also received my low-price grips (MCC copy for <25$ shipping included)

And I started to remove the older (so to say, surely 20y ++ old) and no mark on the shaft so far. Just very old grip tape that took my 1/6 of my Acetone bottle to remove....

 

Next time I go to my workshop at the basement, I'll take pictures of the process and start again on the SW :)

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Well,

I've received some of the tooles I'll need to refurbish those beauties...

 

My Bosch GRO 12V-35 rotary tool with a lot of Dremel Supplies...

 

And I choose the PW to begin with...

I think I'll try to document the process for the other irons... since I think I've found the steps to reduce/"erase" playing marks, bop, slashings on the sole of the irons.

 

I also received my low-price grips (MCC copy for <25$ shipping included)

And I started to remove the older (so to say, surely 20y ++ old) and no mark on the shaft so far. Just very old grip tape that took my 1/6 of my Acetone bottle to remove....

 

Next time I go to my workshop at the basement, I'll take pictures of the process and start again on the SW :)

 

This is my process for "tarting" up a set of classic irons. And I agree, be very judicious with the use of power tools.

 

Overnight soak in Coke. Removes all the surface rust. Then a good scrubbing with #0000 steel wool. The heads and the shafts (don't worry, you won't scratch the chrome.) In a laundry tub of water using a small amount of dish soap. A stiff bristle brush to the grooves, nylon is OK, brass is better.

 

Then I apply an application of chrome polish to the heads and shafts. I prefer SimiChrome, but any chrome polish will work. Hand buff with any suitable cloth. See how they look. If there are some stubborn areas, will use a Dremel buffing wheel. If you have a buffing wheel on a grinder, better yet. A bud has one with all the various buffing compounds that will put a very nice sheen on the heads. Albeit, this easier to do with the head only, without shaft.

 

Clean up the ferrules with Acetone. Install new grips. For future reference. Next time you have layers of grip tape, take a propane torch (or heat gun) to it. Makes removing the tape a whole lot easier. Then I use Goo Gone to remove the adhesive gunk left on the shaft. Anytime I do a regrip, always like to remove any and all traces of the old tape and start with a clean surface. And fresh tape.

 

Have had some pretty gnarly looking clubs that have been nicely restored back to good playable condition by utilizing these steps.

 

FWIW: Everything I know about "putzing" with old clubs I've learned from these Classic Chronicles.

 

Edit add: Rust on the inside of shafts is a fact of life with classic clubs. As long as you don't see pitting on the outside, and in general the shaft appears solid, I wouldn't unduly concern yourself with it. I'll sometimes take a grinder bit in a cordless drill and "touch up" the last couple of inches in the butt end. But that's more about aesthetic than anything. If the shaft breaks, because of excessive rusting, on to Plan B.

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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+1 !

All Forged, all the time.
The Sets that see regular playing time...
67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter.
71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter.
95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter.
2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.

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I agree on not trying to refinish the chrome. All I see in those pictures is tiny amounts of rust in the grooves. My favourite method for cleaning that up is to take them out and hit them!

 

Won't all 30 year old shafts look rusty on the inside though?

 

Aged steel shaft will show browning inside the shaft, through oxidation and moisture invasion but not rust through. If I roll up paper towel to check the inside of the shaft, some brown coloring will probably exist but no small flakes of rust should come off from rubbing. Condensation is the number one cause o start rust. Storing golf clubs in the attic with temperature fluctuation will certainly cause rust.

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@Fellaheen51 : A Gold mine of info ! ! ! Thanks a lot for this vote of confidence... I was pretty sure these were the steps I was willing to process...

 

Actually, for those advising me to avoid to grind the sole, if you look closely to the last 2 pictures, the PW and SW have pretty bad scratches, and even deep ones that I would even and repolish after...

 

To be thourough, I was going to refurbish Completely the heads of the PW, SW, #6 and `that are the more damaged one : Sole grinding + polish // Face cleaning and soft polish // Back shining polish

All other clubs would only go trhough : Sole soft clean + polish // Face lceaning and soft polish // Back shining polish

 

Shafts are rustless on the outside, but the tip of my PW was a little rusty inside.. I think I'll go w/ WD-40, sprayed inside, shaked, and resting for a day upside down before re-installing the grips.

 

 

JoePowell-Blades-Heads.jpg

Renew-6-1.jpg

Renew-6-2.jpg

Renew-6-3.jpg

Renew-6-4.jpg

Renew-6-5.jpg

Renew-6-6.jpg

Renew-6-7.jpg

Renew-PW-1.jpg

Renew-PW-2.jpg

 

Edited by Beniben
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Noticed the sole marks on the PW and SW in the posted pics. Many of us would consider them to be "character" marks and would leave them alone. Especially on a set of players. I'd be careful with excessive grinding in order to remove them. May change the sole configuration, bounce, remove some weight relative to the other clubs in the set. Need to be careful.

 

Assuming the JP's are carbon steel, you can perform some "cold smithing" on the soles. To lessen the the worst of the dings. Carbon steel is surprisingly malleable. In its simplest form, amounts to gently tapping on the damaged areas with a ball pean hammer to shape the metal back into place. You may lose some of the plating, but you would with grinding as well. Works quite well at lessening the visual of the worst of the dings.

 

Howard Jones posted the definitive tutorial on how to perform the task here. He was restoring wedges, but would be the same for iron heads. Lots of good info contained in his post.

 

Restoration is a slippery slope. Always have to ask yourself, to what level do I want to resto? Return them to pristine, only to take them afield and beat them up again. Especially a club like a SW, given its usage environment. But as always, YMMV.

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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When they start to travel again, and they will if you play them, a drop of super glue on the shaft before reseating should take care of it.

All Forged, all the time.
The Sets that see regular playing time...
67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter.
71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter.
95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter.
2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.

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When they start to travel again, and they will if you play them, a drop of super glue on the shaft before reseating should take care of it.

 

Thanks for the tip ;) I will think about it

 

I was so unsure the rubber mallet would take care of it I did not even tought about it before hitting slightly the first one :/

 

As we say in France "C'est en forgeant qu'on devient forgeron" (Practice makes perfect)

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