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As a higher capper, and urethane balls


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I'm a 14 capper. Like to bump/run wedge shots. I never see a difference in my scores based on what ball I play. Differences in my scores are based on how well/badly I'm hitting/putting the ball. Sorry if I am sounding like Captain Obvious here.

 

I can't help but think many mid/high cappers are too concerned about what ball they play.

 

When I do purchase balls, I look to get reasonably priced balls like the duo, e6, supersoft, qst. Often times I get AAAAA recycled balls. In fact, I think buying AAAAA is an excellent way to test different balls (if you think balls matter).

Agreed. I'm a 6-8 cap and still play better golf with a 2 piece Top Flite than any 3 or 4 piece urethane. I've tried and every time I buy fancy new balls my scores go up. I lose more strokes tee to green with them than I gain in the couple instances I need more spin.

 

I understand certain green or weather conditions requiring a ball with more spin but generally speaking, it's probably not helping you as much as you hope it does. If you're a high enough capper you can't consistently execute your shots anyway, a high performance ball is just putting that much more pressure on you.

 

I prefer to enjoy my rounds. lol

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The most important decision is to play the same ball all the time to develop consistency.

 

I play the Titleist Tour Soft.

 

Do you find it scuffs up quicker than, say, a NXT or a ProV1. I found a like-new one and played it for several holes and it already had a couple of (very slight) marks on it. I wonder if they are upping the spin by using a very, very soft cover.

 

Feels softer than an NXT, yet still solid. It doesn't spin much, but I'm a high ball hitter, even around the greens. It's seems normal for durability. Less clicky than the Pro Vs.

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So here is a couple interesting , recent things I have seen first hand.

 

* Last month standing on the tee I was telling guy about the Srixon deals, he said , " I don't mind paying more for my ProV1s , they give me what I need around the greens." This was a tournament and he was a 23.4 index. What performance was he getting? Would he be a 30 index playing a Velocity?

 

* This weekend played with a 21 cap in our monthly event. He could spin his V1X like a mad man but every single time he did he would end 20 feet further away from the hole vs if he played a ball that just hopped and stopped. Yeah watching the ball suck back looks cool but if you can't take some spin off when you need too your only making the putting game harder. He could probably be a 18-19 simply by playing a ball that spins less.

 

* Lastly my personal experience. I have been a big fan of the XV and CS for a while and both can be had pretty inexpensively, however first bought some TF Gamers last Black Friday and now loaded up on a bunch for $7.50 a dozen. On the greens I usually play on, soft and receptive muni greens, they not only stop even on short shots, but can back up a few feet if I have a nice lie to work with. I could play the TF Gamer and my index would not go up, it might even go down..... not sure but it proved to me that the cover while important, isn't everything.

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Srixon XV - Yellow

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* Lastly my personal experience. I have been a big fan of the XV and CS for a while and both can be had pretty inexpensively, however first bought some TF Gamers last Black Friday and now loaded up on a bunch for $7.50 a dozen. On the greens I usually play on, soft and receptive muni greens, they not only stop even on short shots, but can back up a few feet if I have a nice lie to work with. I could play the TF Gamer and my index would not go up, it might even go down..... not sure but it proved to me that the cover while important, isn't everything.

 

When I had been playing golf a couple years I made my first trip up north and played on Bent grass greens. I was using Top Flite XL distance rocks and back home I had to land every single iron shot five yards short of the greens and bounce it on.

 

Those overwatered squishy public course greens on OH we’re like nothing I’d ever seen. Hole after hole I had to repair a crater of a ball mark. The ball would either be plugged or it would hop out of the pitch mark and stop a few inches away. I thought golf was a far simpler proposition in those conditions.

 

I’m not sure I’d ever even seen a pitch mark on the greens back home, the cheap course I learned to play on had Common Bermuda greens (and fairways) that probably Stimped about 6 and were as firm as asphalt.

 

If I had approach shots plugging on the greens it wouldn’t matter what ball I used. But I don’t.

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* Lastly my personal experience. I have been a big fan of the XV and CS for a while and both can be had pretty inexpensively, however first bought some TF Gamers last Black Friday and now loaded up on a bunch for $7.50 a dozen. On the greens I usually play on, soft and receptive muni greens, they not only stop even on short shots, but can back up a few feet if I have a nice lie to work with. I could play the TF Gamer and my index would not go up, it might even go down..... not sure but it proved to me that the cover while important, isn't everything.

 

When I had been playing golf a couple years I made my first trip up north and played on Bent grass greens. I was using Top Flite XL distance rocks and back home I had to land every single iron shot five yards short of the greens and bounce it on.

 

Those overwatered squishy public course greens on OH we’re like nothing I’d ever seen. Hole after hole I had to repair a crater of a ball mark. The ball would either be plugged or it would hop out of the pitch mark and stop a few inches away. I thought golf was a far simpler proposition in those conditions.

 

I’m not sure I’d ever even seen a pitch mark on the greens back home, the cheap course I learned to play on had Common Bermuda greens (and fairways) that probably Stimped about 6 and were as firm as asphalt.

 

If I had approach shots plugging on the greens it wouldn’t matter what ball I used. But I don’t.

Plenty of those types of greens here in VA. Worst thing about them is that too many dummies either don't bother to or don't know how to repair the craters.

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* Lastly my personal experience. I have been a big fan of the XV and CS for a while and both can be had pretty inexpensively, however first bought some TF Gamers last Black Friday and now loaded up on a bunch for $7.50 a dozen. On the greens I usually play on, soft and receptive muni greens, they not only stop even on short shots, but can back up a few feet if I have a nice lie to work with. I could play the TF Gamer and my index would not go up, it might even go down..... not sure but it proved to me that the cover while important, isn't everything.

 

When I had been playing golf a couple years I made my first trip up north and played on Bent grass greens. I was using Top Flite XL distance rocks and back home I had to land every single iron shot five yards short of the greens and bounce it on.

 

Those overwatered squishy public course greens on OH we’re like nothing I’d ever seen. Hole after hole I had to repair a crater of a ball mark. The ball would either be plugged or it would hop out of the pitch mark and stop a few inches away. I thought golf was a far simpler proposition in those conditions.

 

I’m not sure I’d ever even seen a pitch mark on the greens back home, the cheap course I learned to play on had Common Bermuda greens (and fairways) that probably Stimped about 6 and were as firm as asphalt.

 

If I had approach shots plugging on the greens it wouldn’t matter what ball I used. But I don’t.

Plenty of those types of greens here in VA. Worst thing about them is that too many dummies either don't bother to or don't know how to repair the craters.

 

Yeah compared to Bermuda I remember the ball rolling great on that Bent grass...except for bumping over old ball marks every two feet or so!

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