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I think the rust is so even, it looks quite nice. You’d really kick yourself if the CLR or coke bath took away from the consistency.

 

I think it comes down to your personal preference, if you are okay with the rust- play it. If every time you look at it you think about getting rid of that rust, then it needs a bath!

 

In terms of grips, just don’t go too big- you’ll lose all the feel!

 

I’m not a big rust guy, but I agree it’s nice and consistent. Almost looks like an aftermarket antique finish.

Ping G400 Max 10.5*
Ping G425 5W 
Ping G425 19* 3H
Srixon ZX5 4-P 
Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 50*, 54*, 58*
Scotty Cameron Super Select Newport 2+

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I found out from the previous owner it was setup for a pro, so they changed the shaft to suit the player by putting in new 36" shaft...

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Easy job. It's a Carbon Steel head with no over -finish [ like Laquer or Metal Plating ] so easier to do if you have little experience.

 

If you don't have access to a Dremel and flapwheels, or a grinding machine, take it any good local metalworking shop with a small polishing / grinding set up and ask them to run the rust off with a MEDIUM nylon nylon based polishing wheel then a 1000 grit nylon wheel and then a 2000 grit wheel. Make absolutely sure they protect the shaft as its easy to mark the shaft when trying to de-rust the hosel.

 

You should get back the head looking a little bit like very finely 'satinised' metal. It does not need to be highly polished. Next do your paint infill and I'd guess you could purchase a small brush / small tin of enamel paint and a small bottle of thinners for $10 ? For absolute 'authenticity' go onto the Scotty website and check the Archive for the relevant paint job. You can get metal marking pens that 'paint' as well and these can make life easier.

 

Next make sure you remove ALL excess paint and 'laitence' from the thinners. The best way is using a lint free cloth and some pure acetone [nail varnish remover]. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as she will not only find out you've stolen her remover but the smell is quite strong !

 

To 'Black' the putter the layman's way is to 'cold' black it. This is a form of metal oxidisation and used widely on Guns etc., Birchwood Casey make a 'Gun Blue' product - about $12 for a small bottle - and you want the gel one as its much easier to apply. As you start applying the metal will discolour Blue/Black and then black as you apply more. To get a consistent finish you need to work the gel in. Wipe all excess off and allow to dry. You can re-apply more gel if you get a ''patchy'' finish.

 

Once completely dry ''polish' up a little with a soft lint free cloth then make yourself an Oil Cloth using a lint free cloth and light organic lubrication oil [ we have ''3 in 1'' here which comes in a small 4 oz. tin] Put the oil onto the cloth and wipe the oil all over the Putter surface. You will get a little black on the cloth but that's fine.

 

Keep the cloth in a small plastic bag in your bag or Car Boot [ trunk ] as you will need it to wipe down the Head after use to keep the finish and assist protection from the elements.

 

You will lose maybe 5 grms from the metal 'stripping' process and as I refiub around 150 + older Scotties a year [ and weigh most before and after ] the above process should not make a huge difference to the head. You will do more to alter the feel / balance of the Putter by cutting the shaft down and / or putting a different grip on it than the above method and if you can tell the difference then you have better feel than 99% of amateur Golfers in my opinion.

 

Hope that helps. It's easier to do than it sounds. I actually use a specially formulated cold blacking system and also flame seal the metal.......as well as some other tricks for longevity but that's another story

 

Best of luck whatever you do.

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Easy job. It's a Carbon Steel head with no over -finish [ like Laquer or Metal Plating ] so easier to do if you have little experience.

 

If you don't have access to a Dremel and flapwheels, or a grinding machine, take it any good local metalworking shop with a small polishing / grinding set up and ask them to run the rust off with a MEDIUM nylon nylon based polishing wheel then a 1000 grit nylon wheel and then a 2000 grit wheel. Make absolutely sure they protect the shaft as its easy to mark the shaft when trying to de-rust the hosel.

 

You should get back the head looking a little bit like very finely 'satinised' metal. It does not need to be highly polished. Next do your paint infill and I'd guess you could purchase a small brush / small tin of enamel paint and a small bottle of thinners for $10 ? For absolute 'authenticity' go onto the Scotty website and check the Archive for the relevant paint job. You can get metal marking pens that 'paint' as well and these can make life easier.

 

Next make sure you remove ALL excess paint and 'laitence' from the thinners. The best way is using a lint free cloth and some pure acetone [nail varnish remover]. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as she will not only find out you've stolen her remover but the smell is quite strong !

 

To 'Black' the putter the layman's way is to 'cold' black it. This is a form of metal oxidisation and used widely on Guns etc., Birchwood Casey make a 'Gun Blue' product - about $12 for a small bottle - and you want the gel one as its much easier to apply. As you start applying the metal will discolour Blue/Black and then black as you apply more. To get a consistent finish you need to work the gel in. Wipe all excess off and allow to dry. You can re-apply more gel if you get a ''patchy'' finish.

 

Once completely dry ''polish' up a little with a soft lint free cloth then make yourself an Oil Cloth using a lint free cloth and light organic lubrication oil [ we have ''3 in 1'' here which comes in a small 4 oz. tin] Put the oil onto the cloth and wipe the oil all over the Putter surface. You will get a little black on the cloth but that's fine.

 

Keep the cloth in a small plastic bag in your bag or Car Boot [ trunk ] as you will need it to wipe down the Head after use to keep the finish and assist protection from the elements.

 

You will lose maybe 5 grms from the metal 'stripping' process and as I refiub around 150 + older Scotties a year [ and weigh most before and after ] the above process should not make a huge difference to the head. You will do more to alter the feel / balance of the Putter by cutting the shaft down and / or putting a different grip on it than the above method and if you can tell the difference then you have better feel than 99% of amateur Golfers in my opinion.

 

Hope that helps. It's easier to do than it sounds. I actually use a specially formulated cold blacking system and also flame seal the metal.......as well as some other tricks for longevity but that's another story

 

Best of luck whatever you do.

 

Awesome reply and thanks heaps for that! You are a legend!

 

I have removed the head from the shaft and "bathed" the head in coke and given it a bit if a rub with 0000 steel wool and it has come up pretty good, a few small areas of pitting, but generally pretty good. The worst of the pitting seems to be around the hosel and shaft connection point. Should i still grind/polish it back further to get that "satinised look"?

 

In regards to the oil used after bluing, i have a range to currently choose from; Lanox, Inox, WD-40, Remington oil, G96 and traditional silicone oil. Which would be the best to use or should i used the "3 in 1" oil you suggested?

 

Also, should i paint before or after i blue?

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Paint first.

 

Oil wise I usually use gun oil, but I heat the head a bit to allow the oil to soak in a bit better. You could also get it to a more polished level of a finish and torch it...

Taylormade Sim 9° (set to 7°) - Fuji 53k X 

Cobra Rad Speed Tour 5 Wood 16° - Speeder 757 Evo TS X

Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125 S+
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120 S
Srixon z785 5-PW - KBS TourV X

Cleveland ZipCore 50° - Tour S400
Ping Glide Pro Forged 54°/ Eye Toe 59°  - Tour S400
Seemore mFGP2 
Podcast - "Rough Fairways - A Journey to the PGA Tour" available on Spotify - Pandora - Apple

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Here are the most up to date pictures of the putter head minus the paint and rust.

I just purchased a new grip to replace the winn grip, the grip master roo featherlite oversize grip. Being Aussie i thought it was a nice touch and is very similar to my current grip on my other scotty, SS mid slim 2.0

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Yeh looks pretty good, small pitting all over, but is really good considering it is over 20 years old!

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Toss it in the oven at 550F for about 30 minutes, will get a nice dark blue out of it :)

Taylormade Sim 9° (set to 7°) - Fuji 53k X 

Cobra Rad Speed Tour 5 Wood 16° - Speeder 757 Evo TS X

Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125 S+
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120 S
Srixon z785 5-PW - KBS TourV X

Cleveland ZipCore 50° - Tour S400
Ping Glide Pro Forged 54°/ Eye Toe 59°  - Tour S400
Seemore mFGP2 
Podcast - "Rough Fairways - A Journey to the PGA Tour" available on Spotify - Pandora - Apple

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doing some paint fill, got to take advantage of the beautiful winter sun in sunny Queensland!

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Nice!

Allow that paint to dry and then wipe off the excess. It will look nice.

It's basically "raw" carbon steel now so you will have to oil it all the time to keep it from rusting again. I would have done a gun blue finish on it (like what was described earlier) but you've got it painted now.......

Personally, I prefer to use a food grade or electric grade silicone spray. CRC makes good ones and can be found on eBay. I like them over oils because they dry to the touch and won't pick up grass / fertilizers off the green.

DO NOT use WD40. It has chemicals in it that can eat away the paint that you just spent a bunch of time doing.

Game it well!

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Everyone said to paint first then blue...

Will the blue ruin the paint job?

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Finished paintfill....

 

Im pretty happy with the final result!

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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In regards to shafts, what should i use? The one that came with it is not the original shaft and is a piece of sh*t and while the shaft is out i thought i would upgrade and change it at the same time...

 

I realise this head is of the lighter variety (~330g) and would like to get the best feel from it, what shaft would you suggest?

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Might as well have some fun and get a UST FF shaft

Taylormade Sim 9° (set to 7°) - Fuji 53k X 

Cobra Rad Speed Tour 5 Wood 16° - Speeder 757 Evo TS X

Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125 S+
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120 S
Srixon z785 5-PW - KBS TourV X

Cleveland ZipCore 50° - Tour S400
Ping Glide Pro Forged 54°/ Eye Toe 59°  - Tour S400
Seemore mFGP2 
Podcast - "Rough Fairways - A Journey to the PGA Tour" available on Spotify - Pandora - Apple

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  • 2 months later...

Just thought i would give a little update on the putter, i installed a KBS brushed shaft and played it for a while with only silicone spray and regular wipe downs after rounds and found it started to get small areas of fine rust.

I did not like the look of the rust so sanded it back to remove the dings and nicks and got it sent away to be nickel plated with the brushed look. Here is the result after plating.

I love the look of transluscent blue on the stainless and plated Scotty's so was going to use tamiya x-23 enamel paint on it. What other colours should i use with the transluscent blue on the head? Or should i make all the writing transluscent blue?

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Home run on the nickel plate! Love the idea of tamiya translucent blue on there

[list]
[*][size=4][b][color=#0000ff]Ping G410 LST, Mitsubishi Tensei Orange Pro [/color][/b][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 3 wood, Mitsubishi Diamana BF[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 3 hybrid, Mitsubishi Tensei Blue Pro[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 4 hybrid, Evenflow Black[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][b]Titleist T200 5-9 KBS Tour Flt [/b][/size]
[*][size=4][b][color=#daa520]Callaway MD5 45,49,54,58/[/color]
[*][color=#b22222][b][size=4]TP Mills Trad II Hand Forged [/size][/b][/color]
[/list]

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I have a similar project I want to work on over the winter... anybody have any tips on how to get a nice polished look on mine without getting it refinished, I have the same putter but a newport two. I have a dremel tool with an assortment of attachments. anybody have any advise on polishes and attachments to use to get this putter looking better. I bought it off a buddy for really cheap. i'll post some photo's later when I get a chance but any tips on how to get this polished up would be appreciated. Thanks ya'll

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I just finished the paint fill! I still need to wait for the paint to cure a bit more before i do a proper clean up, but its looking amazing! I cant wait to finish it and get it out on the course!

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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Do you wear sunglasses on the course? The glare off that thing is going to be blinding.

Ping G400 SFT 12*

Ping G 5W 19*

Ping G  7W 21.5*

Ping G410 5 Hybrid 25*

Mizuno JPX 923 HM HL 6-GW

Cleveland CBX2 54* & 58*

Scotty Cameron Newport Mil Spec 340g @ 34”

Bettinardi BB1 350g @ 34”

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Im pretty happy with it! The trans blue looks amazing! Considering how it looked when i first purchased it!

I will be wearing sunnies when i play, always have and always will. So the shine wont affect me.

I will weigh the head when i get the chance, the head was 332g before i got it nickel plated...

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.0o with HZRDUS Black RDX 60g 6.5 shaft.

3 Wood: Titleist TSi3 15o with HZRDUS Black RDX 70g 6.0 shaft.

Hybrid: Titleist TSi3 20o with HZRDUS Black RDX 80g 6.0 shaft.

4-Iron to AW: Srixon ZX7 MkI, with N.S.Pro Modus3 114g Stiff shafts.

SW: Titleist Vokey SM8 54-10 S-Grind.

LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 58-08 M-Grind.

Putter(s): 34" Phantom X 5.5 & Scotty Cameron PP Mil-Spec 34" 340g.

Grips: Lamkin UTX Midsize (Driver to AW).

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      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Rory McIlroy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Sepp Straka - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Patrick Rodgers - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Brendon Todd - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Denny McCarthy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Corey Conners - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Chase Johnson - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tommy Fleetwood - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Matt Fitzpatrick - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Si Woo Kim - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Viktor Hovland - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Wyndham Clark - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Cam Davis - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Nick Taylor - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Ben Baller WITB update (New putter, driver, hybrid and shafts) – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Vortex Golf rangefinder - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Fujikura Ventus shaft - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods & TaylorMade "Sun Day Red" apparel launch event, product photos – 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods Sun Day Red golf shoes - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Aretera shafts - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Toulon putters - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods' new white "Sun Day Red" golf shoe prototypes – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
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