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Muscle Back "Blade" Irons --- History and Future?


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Just depends what you mean by “future” and compared to what. Of course they won’t go away, but they’re a shadow of what they used to be in terms of use among casual golfers.

Agreed. And being bullish on something should mean you think they will increase market share, not just be OK.

TBH I think Titleist is their on worst enemy in terms of stocking clubs. When they only had 4 sets, sure why not throw a set of MBs with S300s on the floor. Now with AP3s and TMBs, how many sets is GG or Edwin Watts supposed to have out for them?

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

F.T.

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So Molinari wins by a slim margin. Maybe the blade players lost a stroke due to their clubs and molinari gained a stroke from his over the course of 72 holes....

 

Anecdotal evidence is anecdotal.

 

 

 

Ping G400 @ 10.5° (Ping Tour 65S)

Ping G400 5 wood @ 16.5° (Ping Alta CB 65S)

Ping G410 7 wood @ 20° (Ping Tour 75X)

Titleist 818H2 @ 22° (PX 6.0)

Ping i210 PowerSpec 5-U (DG S300)

Titleist SM7 54° F / 60° K (DG S200)

Ping Heppler Floki

Titleist ProV1x/AVX

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One thing I don't see mentioned in these threads is that blades might offer a certain advantage for at least a fair percentage of players from certain distances/and or conditions. I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel. Not being argumentative but there are a lot of more precise shots that would seem to me to be easier with a blade. I also feel like repeating distances are tough with some of the newer designs.

No debating that newer "designs" flat out help those that rarely hit the middle of the club. However at some point in the skill set profile comes a time when blades would outperform shovels IMO. I guess though that in the cases where the player would benefit from the blades they do not need any more marketing than seeing what some of the top players in the world play.

Driver- Titleist TsR2 with Graphite Design Tour AD

4w - Titleist Tsi2 with Tensei Raw Blue shaft

19 Hy - Titleist 818 H1 with Atmos Tour Spec

23 Hy - Titleist 818 with Graphite Design Tour AD-DI shaft

5i-PW - Bridgestone J15 CB with Recoil F4 110 shafts

50,54,and 58 Wilson Staff wedges with SF shafts

Ping Prime Tyne 4 PSD

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^If you cannot bump and run a G25 8i there's a problem with your imagination - or worse, your swing - and not the club.

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

F.T.

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One thing I don't see mentioned in these threads is that blades might offer a certain advantage for at least a fair percentage of players from certain distances/and or conditions. I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel. Not being argumentative but there are a lot of more precise shots that would seem to me to be easier with a blade. I also feel like repeating distances are tough with some of the newer designs.

No debating that newer "designs" flat out help those that rarely hit the middle of the club. However at some point in the skill set profile comes a time when blades would outperform shovels IMO. I guess though that in the cases where the player would benefit from the blades they do not need any more marketing than seeing what some of the top players in the world play.

I play 712 AP1 irons. In the past I have played Callaway X14 and X-20 irons.

I have also played Mizuno MP14’s, MP 33’s, Maltby MMB’s.

Keeping a shot low has nothing to with club design in my opinion.

How do you hit a knock down 3 wood or hit a hybrid under a tree branch?

It’s in your swing.

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I'm in there with Duffer. Knocking a shot down or playing a bump and run is face angle and swing. It is not reserved only for blades.

 

I can do it with CBs but find it much easier with MBs...the lower CG and higher offset in the CB automatically gets the ball launching higher for me. Typically I take a couple of clubs more to take the loft off but then struggle with distance control. The other issue I usually have is that if I’m in the trees and having to play under branches, I’m also trying to move it one way or t’other around the trunks that are supporting said branches and again I just find it easier with a MB. I’m guessing your argument would be that if I used CBs I wouldn’t be in the teees in the first place ;-)

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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I'm in there with Duffer. Knocking a shot down or playing a bump and run is face angle and swing. It is not reserved only for blades.

 

I can do it with CBs but find it much easier with MBs...the lower CG and higher offset in the CB automatically gets the ball launching higher for me. Typically I take a couple of clubs more to take the loft off but then struggle with distance control. The other issue I usually have is that if I’m in the trees and having to play under branches, I’m also trying to move it one way or t’other around the trunks that are supporting said branches and again I just find it easier with a MB. I’m guessing your argument would be that if I used CBs I wouldn’t be in the teees in the first place ;-)

 

No just that if you cannot alter these things with any 'ol clubhead design, you need to work on your game ;)

I see a fair few golfers - typically with some old Callaway X-something or Ping G irons and not the 25s, but the 2s, 5s, 10s - that play shots along the ground no prob.

 

I tried the G25s for 10-12 rounds, but didn't like the size and offset. Dead easy to play shots with though, just like the S55s I currently use.

Heck if I need a low one from under a tree and it's a scruffy lie, I'm using my hybrid and those are supposed to be launch it high hook machines.

 

And do note we were replying to the following, which is the typical hyperbole - with the typical pejorative thrown in for added measure:

I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel.

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

F.T.

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I'm in there with Duffer. Knocking a shot down or playing a bump and run is face angle and swing. It is not reserved only for blades.

 

I can do it with CBs but find it much easier with MBs...the lower CG and higher offset in the CB automatically gets the ball launching higher for me. Typically I take a couple of clubs more to take the loft off but then struggle with distance control. The other issue I usually have is that if I’m in the trees and having to play under branches, I’m also trying to move it one way or t’other around the trunks that are supporting said branches and again I just find it easier with a MB. I’m guessing your argument would be that if I used CBs I wouldn’t be in the teees in the first place ;-)

 

 

Sounds like you need to work on your driving if you’re having to hit knockdowns under branches that often. Also the MB user linenof thinking is they’d just be farther in the trees with a CB.

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I'm in there with Duffer. Knocking a shot down or playing a bump and run is face angle and swing. It is not reserved only for blades.

 

I can do it with CBs but find it much easier with MBs...the lower CG and higher offset in the CB automatically gets the ball launching higher for me. Typically I take a couple of clubs more to take the loft off but then struggle with distance control. The other issue I usually have is that if I’m in the trees and having to play under branches, I’m also trying to move it one way or t’other around the trunks that are supporting said branches and again I just find it easier with a MB. I’m guessing your argument would be that if I used CBs I wouldn’t be in the teees in the first place ;-)

 

 

Sounds like you need to work on your driving if you’re having to hit knockdowns under branches that often. Also the MB user linenof thinking is they’d just be farther in the trees with a CB.

 

18-25 yard wide fairways and tree-lined as well means there is always plenty of opportunity for knockdowns under trees no matter how accurate off the tee ;-).

 

The future for MBs looks pretty good this side of the pond. I see a fair proportion of MBs in anything up to mid-cap bags...three sets of Mizuno MP18s in the last few weeks.

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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I'm in there with Duffer. Knocking a shot down or playing a bump and run is face angle and swing. It is not reserved only for blades.

 

I can do it with CBs but find it much easier with MBs...the lower CG and higher offset in the CB automatically gets the ball launching higher for me. Typically I take a couple of clubs more to take the loft off but then struggle with distance control. The other issue I usually have is that if I’m in the trees and having to play under branches, I’m also trying to move it one way or t’other around the trunks that are supporting said branches and again I just find it easier with a MB. I’m guessing your argument would be that if I used CBs I wouldn’t be in the teees in the first place ;-)

 

No just that if you cannot alter these things with any 'ol clubhead design, you need to work on your game ;)

I see a fair few golfers - typically with some old Callaway X-something or Ping G irons and not the 25s, but the 2s, 5s, 10s - that play shots along the ground no prob.

 

I tried the G25s for 10-12 rounds, but didn't like the size and offset. Dead easy to play shots with though, just like the S55s I currently use.

Heck if I need a low one from under a tree and it's a scruffy lie, I'm using my hybrid and those are supposed to be launch it high hook machines.

 

And do note we were replying to the following, which is the typical hyperbole - with the typical pejorative thrown in for added measure:

I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel.

 

When I can play knockdowns relatively easily with the MP4s, I don’t feel the need to work at it with CBs ;-). I play with a few low caps who swear by their G10s and they have every shot in the book...even a low running fade...which I could never pull off with a G club!!

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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WRXers love hitting 300yd drives everyday. Now a blade is something made of cast and some even have a screw where they squirt Spider-Man goo into them. The world is changing.

Ping G410+ Tensei Orange Pro.

Mizuno GT180 shaft as above.

Adams 3H  Aldila Blue.

Wilson FG100 4i-PW.

Wilson PMP 52/56/60

Putters....too many.

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... You are looking at things thru your eyes and your experience. As a full time instructor for 5 years I can assure you there were very few students that could shoot their lowest score and play MB's. Again, they are certainly out there and you seem to be one of them, but you are in the minority. There is a reason they don't let MLB players use a perimeter weighted aluminum bat, and it is crazy rare to see a college player use a solid wood bat. The advantages of perimeter weighting is undeniable and you just don't see many MB players using a 300 cc driver with limited perimeter weighting as opposed to a 460/440cc forgiving driver. That said, if you have the game to hit the center and control your trajectory the difference between a CB and MB can be non existent for you and of course for some, a CB with more weight low in the head producing a higher trajectory can be worse for their game.

 

... WRX seems to be the only place this topic generates opposition form either side. Now that I am not teaching, I couldn't care less what you play. : )

 

I agree that if you cannot hit the center of the club, MBs are not for you. I said the benefit of an MB for such a person is on the driving range, where they will learn through better feedback how to hit the center.

 

For those who CAN hit the center of the club face, the benefits are far better distance control, ability to shape shots, and better ability to dig through rough. So, there are reasons for good players to use blades, other than just wanting to look cool. Just look at the pros. Their income is based on how they perform with their clubs. World ranking does not care what your irons look like, but your bank account does care about world ranking, finishes and endorsements.

 

Its not binary. You don't hit or not hit the center. You hit it to varying degrees. Even good players miss by milimeters and they do so quite often. Hogan said he only hit it perfectly 2 or 3 times a round. MBs are cool clubs, but there isn't a player alive who hits the exact center of the clubface over half the time.

 

Tell that to Tiger

Taylormade M6
Callaway Steelhead XR 4+
Mizuno MP-18 mb 4-PW
Titliest SM7 50f, 54s, 58d
SC Phantom X 5.5

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One thing I don't see mentioned in these threads is that blades might offer a certain advantage for at least a fair percentage of players from certain distances/and or conditions. I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel. Not being argumentative but there are a lot of more precise shots that would seem to me to be easier with a blade. I also feel like repeating distances are tough with some of the newer designs.

No debating that newer "designs" flat out help those that rarely hit the middle of the club. However at some point in the skill set profile comes a time when blades would outperform shovels IMO. I guess though that in the cases where the player would benefit from the blades they do not need any more marketing than seeing what some of the top players in the world play.

 

Skill is skill. If the reasoning for playing blades is superior ball striking then those players should be skilled enough to adapt to less demanding clubs.

 

As for the lack of consistent distance control in GI irons, that is a myth that has been busted many times. If someone plays blades because they are a good ball striker, but gets "fairway jumpers" with GI clubs, then they are not as proficient as they think at their ball striking. If GI clubs were really capable of 20 yard jumpers, how would they not fail USGA cor tests?

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Well, I guess I got told how it really is :-)

So clubs that are designed to help players get the ball in the air easier are just as easy to knock down as blades? Thin faced clubs that are designed to have a trampoline effect are just as easy to bump and run as a blade? You guys ARE talented!! If the PGA knew these things there would be no reason to ever manufacture another blade! I have learned on WRX:

1. Cast feels the same as forged

2. Knock downs and trajectory control are the same with a blade and a Big Bertha and if you don't see that your swing needs help

3. Hitting a precise bump and run should be the same regardless of what club you use

Driver- Titleist TsR2 with Graphite Design Tour AD

4w - Titleist Tsi2 with Tensei Raw Blue shaft

19 Hy - Titleist 818 H1 with Atmos Tour Spec

23 Hy - Titleist 818 with Graphite Design Tour AD-DI shaft

5i-PW - Bridgestone J15 CB with Recoil F4 110 shafts

50,54,and 58 Wilson Staff wedges with SF shafts

Ping Prime Tyne 4 PSD

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Well, I guess I got told how it really is :-)

So clubs that are designed to help players get the ball in the air easier are just as easy to knock down as blades? Thin faced clubs that are designed to have a trampoline effect are just as easy to bump and run as a blade? You guys ARE talented!! If the PGA knew these things there would be no reason to ever manufacture another blade! I have learned on WRX:

1. Cast feels the same as forged

2. Knock downs and trajectory control are the same with a blade and a Big Bertha and if you don't see that your swing needs help

3. Hitting a precise bump and run should be the same regardless of what club you use

 

I guess at this point I will remind you, that you said this:

 

I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel.

 

If you are looking for a reason to sell your shovels and get MBs, then you can just go and do it, because buying stuff is fun, but if you cannot keep your current ball flight low or hit bump and runs because of the 770 shovels you play, it's not them, it's you.

[url="http://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTOZNxdsDKajrKxaUCRjcU8eB7URcAMpaCWN-67Bt6QG8rmBUPYW3QAQ7k87BlYizIMKJzEhuzqr9OQ/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true"]WITB[/url] | [url="http://tinyurl.com/CoursesPlayedList"]Courses Played list[/url] |  [url="http://tinyurl.com/25GolfingFaves"] 25 Faves [/url]

F.T.

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One thing I don't see mentioned in these threads is that blades might offer a certain advantage for at least a fair percentage of players from certain distances/and or conditions. I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel. Not being argumentative but there are a lot of more precise shots that would seem to me to be easier with a blade. I also feel like repeating distances are tough with some of the newer designs.

No debating that newer "designs" flat out help those that rarely hit the middle of the club. However at some point in the skill set profile comes a time when blades would outperform shovels IMO. I guess though that in the cases where the player would benefit from the blades they do not need any more marketing than seeing what some of the top players in the world play.

 

Skill is skill. If the reasoning for playing blades is superior ball striking then those players should be skilled enough to adapt to less demanding clubs.

 

As for the lack of consistent distance control in GI irons, that is a myth that has been busted many times. If someone plays blades because they are a good ball striker, but gets "fairway jumpers" with GI clubs, then they are not as proficient as they think at their ball striking. If GI clubs were really capable of 20 yard jumpers, how would they not fail USGA cor tests?

 

This myth is almost always “busted” by the guys who don’t have the abilities required to play small heads. If skill is skill and GI irons are superior then why do so many lower HC and professionals play what they play? Your argument plays as justification for what you use. I do not have to justify or theorize my point because it can be seen in hard data what professionals play. If the GI offered the performance they needed it would be a gold mine for OME marketing! Obviously they don’t perform the same. Professionals know it and even my common single digit HC can see what club best lends itself to characteristics on the course. High and straight ...GI hard to beat. Low cut...GI easy to beat.

Not arguing...just stating the absolute obvious.

Driver- Titleist TsR2 with Graphite Design Tour AD

4w - Titleist Tsi2 with Tensei Raw Blue shaft

19 Hy - Titleist 818 H1 with Atmos Tour Spec

23 Hy - Titleist 818 with Graphite Design Tour AD-DI shaft

5i-PW - Bridgestone J15 CB with Recoil F4 110 shafts

50,54,and 58 Wilson Staff wedges with SF shafts

Ping Prime Tyne 4 PSD

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I’ve played Apex Pros ‘16, Apex CF16 and now the Apex MBs over the last two years and honestly see minimal difference in terms of my ability to hit a good shot with any of them. Mis-hits are Mia-hits and flush shots are flush shots.

 

My handicap has come down 3+ points since putting the MBs in the bag. While I don’t attribute that as the reason it certainly hasn’t prevented me from continuing to improve. The biggest thing that has helped is gapping and understanding exactly how far the ball should fly and that being consistent always.

 

Granted I’m only talking about the scoring clubs... I kept the Apex Pro in 6 and 7iron however I’m absolutely convinced there’s not much difference for me. I could easily play the MB 7iron.

 

Now I will also say that I get more out of the Apex CF16 5-iron than I can with the MB or the Apex Pro. I’m sure it’s the combination of loft (although I have it weakened to blend better), Cup face and whatever “technology” is there but it does help me at my club head speed.

 

So... what’s the takeaway. I’m a single digit (1.8) but I just don’t think it’s any easier for a decent golfer to hit a MB 9-iron vs a shovel 9-iron and in fact could make the case it’s easier to hit the MB. (I tried to hit my neighbors Rogue X 9-iron just for fun to see how far I’d hit it and never hit it solid in 4 tries). At some point there can become a benefit of a game improvement in if nothing else maintaining proper gaps with irons. As a 100mph driver swing speed player at 40YO that’s about the 5-iron where I stop seeing enough gap and thus I employ a modern game improvement stick that still appeals to my eye enough to play it.

Callaway Epic Speed 9° Driver
Callaway Epic Speed 4W - Smoke IM10

Callaway Apex UW (21°)

Mizuno Pro 225 (4i); 223 (5-9i); 221 (PW)
Jaws MD 5 50°, Full Toe 54°, 58° PM Grind
Toulon Odyssey Chicago
 

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Remember, the more arguing there is about something, the more inconsequential it's likely to be in real life.

 

When there isn't actual data to prove something definitively, opinions tend to dominate and you see a mass debate which generally splits 50/50 on the basis of overly-simplistic generalizations.

 

So I think there's a point to be made that it's a toss up for most golfers. I would say that amongst mid-handicappers, scoring is more a function of other things like how they're driving and putting. What kind of 5-iron the 15- or 20-handicapper is playing tends to be pretty irrelevant. The most critical irons tend to be the shorter ones where you can see big swings depending on the outcome. That's offset by the fact short irons are where you see the least difference amongst club designs.

 

That said, I do find it kind of intriguing how a good many people report carding their personal bests with blades, as if maybe you're more likely to get in the zone with those kinds of clubs. That could easily be BS, but there might be something to it. I know for me, that was true. Maybe it was random. Maybe it wasn't.

 

I know that for me though, my score is not that affected by what irons I play. Driving, short game and putting tend to dominate.

 

For pretty much any short I hit with a blade, there's usually a way it could've been done with some kind of CB. That said, blades seem to have less "bias" so it's not surprising they tend to be preferred by folks who imagine being creative as opposed to trying to hit the same shot every time (a la Zach Johnson).

TSR3 (9o) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6)
TSR2+ (14.5o 3w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

TSR2 (21o 7w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

zU85 (4-6) (UST Recoil)
Z-Forged (7-Gw) (Nippon Modus3)

SM9 56-F / 60-S
Maltby PTM-5CS

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One thing I don't see mentioned in these threads is that blades might offer a certain advantage for at least a fair percentage of players from certain distances/and or conditions. I don't for the life of me know how anyone keeps anything low when needed with a shovel. Nor, can imaging a bump and run with a 8i shovel. Not being argumentative but there are a lot of more precise shots that would seem to me to be easier with a blade. I also feel like repeating distances are tough with some of the newer designs.

No debating that newer "designs" flat out help those that rarely hit the middle of the club. However at some point in the skill set profile comes a time when blades would outperform shovels IMO. I guess though that in the cases where the player would benefit from the blades they do not need any more marketing than seeing what some of the top players in the world play.

 

Skill is skill. If the reasoning for playing blades is superior ball striking then those players should be skilled enough to adapt to less demanding clubs.

 

As for the lack of consistent distance control in GI irons, that is a myth that has been busted many times. If someone plays blades because they are a good ball striker, but gets "fairway jumpers" with GI clubs, then they are not as proficient as they think at their ball striking. If GI clubs were really capable of 20 yard jumpers, how would they not fail USGA cor tests?

 

This myth is almost always busted by the guys who dont have the abilities required to play small heads. If skill is skill and GI irons are superior then why do so many lower HC and professionals play what they play? Your argument plays as justification for what you use. I do not have to justify or theorize my point because it can be seen in hard data what professionals play. If the GI offered the performance they needed it would be a gold mine for OME marketing! Obviously they dont perform the same. Professionals know it and even my common single digit HC can see what club best lends itself to characteristics on the course. High and straight ...GI hard to beat. Low cut...GI easy to beat.

Not arguing...just stating the absolute obvious.

 

You realize almost 80% of tour professionals play cavity backs don’t you?

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I went through a personal experiment a few years back where I tracked some basic stats (FIR, GIR - though I know those aren't perfect). This coincided with me rotating fairly evenly between a set of old, classic blades (mid 90's era Ram Tour Grinds) a set of Ping CBs and a set of Golfsmith "player's CB" (can't remember the actual model name). This went through about a two season period, and I would say my skill level had pretty much plateaued during this time (I was about a 6 hcp at the time). All sets were fit to me for length and lie.

 

In the end, I saw essentially no correlation between scoring averages and which iron sets I was using.

 

Was this perfect, scientific experiment that one would say is conclusive? Not really. All sorts of experimental "issues" and biases (including personal biases) could have contributed to these results. But whatever the case may be, I didn't find a compelling reason to choose one set over another.

 

In full disclosure, I will say this that my iron sets have always been 5-PW, with two hybrids (19* and 22*) taking the place of long irons. For this sort of mid-to-low iron makeup, how much difference does club design make?

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Remember, the more arguing there is about something, the more inconsequential it's likely to be in real life.

 

When there isn't actual data to prove something definitively, opinions tend to dominate and you see a mass debate which generally splits 50/50 on the basis of overly-simplistic generalizations.

 

So I think there's a point to be made that it's a toss up for most golfers. I would say that amongst mid-handicappers, scoring is more a function of other things like how they're driving and putting. What kind of 5-iron the 15- or 20-handicapper is playing tends to be pretty irrelevant. The most critical irons tend to be the shorter ones where you can see big swings depending on the outcome. That's offset by the fact short irons are where you see the least difference amongst club designs.

 

That said, I do find it kind of intriguing how a good many people report carding their personal bests with blades, as if maybe you're more likely to get in the zone with those kinds of clubs. That could easily be BS, but there might be something to it. I know for me, that was true. Maybe it was random. Maybe it wasn't.

 

I know that for me though, my score is not that affected by what irons I play. Driving, short game and putting tend to dominate.

 

For pretty much any short I hit with a blade, there's usually a way it could've been done with some kind of CB. That said, blades seem to have less "bias" so it's not surprising they tend to be preferred by folks who imagine being creative as opposed to trying to hit the same shot every time (a la Zach Johnson).

 

Lol. Yea it’s about creativity. I’m gonna toe this 7 iron and come up 20 yards short on purpose. That is creative. The only bias a CB offers is getting the most out of a slightly mishit shot. If score isn’t dictated by the irons you play then your scores must be really bad or you must be really good but I’d have to see the dime size wear spot on the middle of your iron faces to know which.

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If skill is skill and GI irons are superior then why do so many lower HC and professionals play what they play?

 

As about a 1-3 cap, I'm closer to a 15 cap statistically than I am to a touring professional (as you cut strokes, strokes get harder to cut). Why do you guys always lump "touring professionals" with "low HC" players? Its like lumping a guy who starts for his state championship basketball team in New England with somebody in the NBA. Those two class of players are absolutely worlds apart. There's no comparison.

 

Its really weird reading in other threads that "feel players" can just "hit shots" that go high, low, etc... then the same guys are in this thread telling us they need a certain type of iron to hit those shots. Just feel them dude!

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I have blades, a combo set, cb's and full blown shovels. I can tell you for sure since I just did it yesterday, I can play to my average with any set I choose that day. It don't matter what kind, if I hit it on the screws, it goes the distance I want. If I miss hit it, and there is varying degrees, but it don't matter what club it is, the shot didnt go off as planned. I can do it all, short, long, left , right. I can also have miss hits end up not too bad with all clubs. For myself it comes down to what you are comfortable with. Even as a mid capper, I like looking down at a smaller head better than I do a shovel. I know others are the opposite. Doesn't bother me in the least.

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I do think this is one of the few really sad elements of GolfWRX.

 

The fact a few trolls come into these threads ruins it for the rest of us.

 

Sadly, I don't think there's anything to be done about it. It's just ironic considering how many folks actually hit MBs around here.

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Another thread derailed into a Blades vs GI debate by the anti-blade crusaders

 

... The sound of one hand clapping. It takes two to tango. Only the zealots do not see this is equally divided among both camps.

 

It was a thread about blades

 

Please point out a CB or GI thread that was derailed by blade-users

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