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Maltby TS2


Popeye64

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Yah i love the way the DBM finish look and wears but it is not bendable.

 

Some have had some luck beinding the DBM irons however i believe it has to do with the fact they were a softer metal to begin with. It appears the DBM process makes the metal much harder. So when you try to bend it they have no play and snap.

 

I remember ordering a set of MMB blacks to my specs...GW didnt even get some of the clubs close. Likely because they couldnt but the builder they had (when i dealt with CS they were awesome) they advised their regular builder was on vacation so they had a fill in. So i got my mmb blacks loved the look but discovered they were off spec. Not by much some (less then 1 to 1.5*)

 

Some clubs bent .5 or so. Others instantly snapped with the lightest pressure.

 

Anyways they were warrantied and replaced with MMB chrome which bend like butter.

 

On a side note there is a noticeable difference in feel too when the dbm is compared to the non dbm model.

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The way I bent mine was to get them good and warm and just bump them a little at a time. Bump them three or four times and check. Then do it again. I have not snapped one and may have just been very lucky.

 

As a side note the soft feel of the TE and the MMB-17 definetly goes away a bit with the DBM finish.

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The way I bent mine was to get them good and warm and just bump them a little at a time. Bump them three or four times and check. Then do it again. I have not snapped one and may have just been very lucky.

 

As a side note the soft feel of the TE and the MMB-17 definetly goes away a bit with the DBM finish.

 

Have u bent only the DBM Tes or have u bent mmb blacks, ptm dbm? Or any of the dbm finish wedges

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The way I bent mine was to get them good and warm and just bump them a little at a time. Bump them three or four times and check. Then do it again. I have not snapped one and may have just been very lucky.

 

As a side note the soft feel of the TE and the MMB-17 definetly goes away a bit with the DBM finish.

 

Have u bent only the DBM Tes or have u bent mmb blacks, ptm dbm? Or any of the dbm finish wedges

Only 2 DBM irons and one MMB Black. No wedges.
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The wedges cannot be bent. I know because I wanted a tour geind wedge bent by golfworks and they said they cannot. They said too brittle.

Driver: Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 8*, Tensei AV White 75g
Irons: TaylorMade P790, 5-PW; Mitsubishi MMT 110g
Hybrids: Ping G425 19*
Wedges: Ping Glide 3.0 50*, 54*, 60*
Putter: L.A.B. Directed Force 2.1, Polar BGT shaft   
Bag: Ping Hoofer Lite Midnight
Ball: Bridgestone Tour B X yellow, Callaway Chrome Soft X LS

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The wedges cannot be bent. I know because I wanted a tour geind wedge bent by golfworks and they said they cannot. They said too brittle.

 

They need to do something about this. Doesn't make any sense to have a finish that they're not willing to bend. Simple manufacturing tolerances where loft/lie can be off by 1* either way, make it a must to be able to adjust

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Tried various irons/shafts at a fitting session, nothing did better than my DBMs with Recoil 660 F3. Next best head was probably I500 or cobra forge tec. My miss is a pull and thin. I think the super low COG of the DBMs really helps compensate for me picking the ball.

 

Interested in TS1/TS2 for something a little more forgiving than the DBMs especially in the long irons, would think TS2 would be more forgiving, but TS1 has a lower COG so might work better for my miss. TS1 is still higher than DBM though, but hollow design might compensate for that (0.750 vs 0.675 COG). Thoughts? I am planning on getting a club pak for the savings rather than to order a single head first.

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Tried various irons/shafts at a fitting session, nothing did better than my DBMs with Recoil 660 F3. Next best head was probably I500 or cobra forge tec. My miss is a pull and thin. I think the super low COG of the DBMs really helps compensate for me picking the ball.

 

Interested in TS1/TS2 for something a little more forgiving than the DBMs especially in the long irons, would think TS2 would be more forgiving, but TS1 has a lower COG so might work better for my miss. TS1 is still higher than DBM though, but hollow design might compensate for that (0.750 vs 0.675 COG). Thoughts? I am planning on getting a club pak for the savings rather than to order a single head first.

 

Stay with the DBM all the way through. Nothing is more beneficial for a picker/sweeper than a low sweet-spot (AVCOG).

 

Doesn't make sense to go with a higher sweet-spot for a combo set, whether hollow or not.

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A little off topic but … Like my TS2s (5-9 graphite) and looking to add a driving iron (lots of short/tight par 4's at my club) Current 4i is a Cleveland 588 MT with stock graphite shaft. I was playing TEs with KBS tour shafts but they just ballooned to much and decided to switch to graphite. Love the flight from the TS2s.

 

Any recommendations between TS2/TS1/MMB/PTM or KE4 TC? Thanks.

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A little off topic but … Like my TS2s (5-9 graphite) and looking to add a driving iron (lots of short/tight par 4's at my club) Current 4i is a Cleveland 588 MT with stock graphite shaft. I was playing TEs with KBS tour shafts but they just ballooned to much and decided to switch to graphite. Love the flight from the TS2s.

 

Any recommendations between TS2/TS1/MMB/PTM or KE4 TC? Thanks.

Have to agree with you on the flight of the TS-2.
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A little off topic but … Like my TS2s (5-9 graphite) and looking to add a driving iron (lots of short/tight par 4's at my club) Current 4i is a Cleveland 588 MT with stock graphite shaft. I was playing TEs with KBS tour shafts but they just ballooned to much and decided to switch to graphite. Love the flight from the TS2s.

 

Any recommendations between TS2/TS1/MMB/PTM or KE4 TC? Thanks.

 

Why not just add the Ts2 4 iron and have it adjusted to whatever loft you think fits?

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@Minarets The MMB Blacks were the last release of that process and that was a limited run. Britt was looking into the possible finish for a run of the TS-1 or 2 but promised nothing.

 

You are right that shaft was not released. He is reworking it. It's a shame because it added a good 8 yards over a lightweight steel shaft.

 

I just noticed xcaliber finally released their new site have shafts listed for sale again, are any of these iron shafts it or that one is still under rework?

https://xcalibershafts.com/collections/iron-golf-shafts-manual

 

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@Minarets The MMB Blacks were the last release of that process and that was a limited run. Britt was looking into the possible finish for a run of the TS-1 or 2 but promised nothing.

 

You are right that shaft was not released. He is reworking it. It's a shame because it added a good 8 yards over a lightweight steel shaft.

 

I just noticed xcaliber finally released their new site have shafts listed for sale again, are any of these iron shafts it or that one is still under rework?

https://xcalibershafts.com/collections/iron-golf-shafts-manual

Nope. They are not there
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If I bought a TS1 club pack with Dynamic Gold 105 shafts, anyone know if they use taper tip or parallel tip?

 

All club paks are parellel...its crap unfortunately.

 

Just curious, why is it crap?

 

In terms of DG. Dg parallels are a very different shaft then taper DG.

 

Other companies not as bad but i hate descending weight.

 

And youre right the kbs tour customs are taper because that shaft only comes in taper

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If I bought a TS1 club pack with Dynamic Gold 105 shafts, anyone know if they use taper tip or parallel tip?

 

All club paks are parellel...its crap unfortunately.

 

Just curious, why is it crap?

 

In terms of DG. Dg parallels are a very different shaft then taper DG.

 

Other companies not as bad but i hate descending weight.

 

And youre right the kbs tour customs are taper because that shaft only comes in taper

 

 

A small side note, the Modus 120 and 130 shafts appear to come in constant weight for parallel, just as the tapered models. Which is nice. :)

 

Only peripherally related to the Jason post, but I thought I'd chime in anyway...

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, Rogue Black 75X -or- TM Stage 2 Tour 3w, NV105 X -or- TEE E8 Beta 12*, Rogue Silver 70X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S -or- TEE CBX 17*, HZRDUS 85 6.0

2 iron:  Arias D-23, Modus3 120 S; Mizuno MP-20 HMB, NS Pro 950 R

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S; testing: Arias D-23 5i w/Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3), Wilson Triad

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Whenever a club pak is ordered customer service is really receptive to making changes to your specific club pak. You CAN make changes and if you know your specs they will build the set for free to your exact specs.

If the shafts or grips you want are more expensive than what's included you have to pay the difference but it's still at a nice discount over buying by the piece.

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Just epoxied a TS1 5 iron and pitching wedge a few minutes ago. Using the same shaft as in my CF16s (Recoil 680 F4). Will cut to length and grip once the epoxy sets up (should be done before I head to bed tonight). Will give them a try on the range and course tomorrow if all goes well.

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I wanted to follow up on these as I was an early buyer from ClubWorks.

 

To start I am in a wonky state with my swing right now so this isn't where I'd necessarily be if I was swinging great.

 

I think these are very straight, good heads. I have a professionally fit set that I use from 8I-AW that I've never loved the longer irons with. So I am carrying the TS2 from 4-7. What I have found is that they go very straight, and they are long. For me they aren't spinning as I'd like, so I am going to adjust the lofts to get some more spin out of them and blend them better to my short irons but they do go straight, consistently.

 

I'd complained earlier about their feel, and I'd leave it at this - if your point of comparison is a buttery club like a Srixon or a soft forged JDM, these aren't going to be as soft. They just aren't. They are relatively firm at point of contact. Poor contact isn't harsh, it's just...poor contact. It holds its line well and reasonably holds its distance.

 

I didn't love the short irons as much as the long ones, and I think for those who are exclusively Maltby they could make a lot of sense paired with TS1 in some sort of blend. I would say I generally share Popeye's enthusiasm, however, they are very good irons. I still think to me they comp to the M3 irons or Epics or 565 - they are a game improvement club that better players can play with that sort of mid-softness feel to them. Which at their price point is very attractive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have some more thoughts on the TS-1 vs 2 debate.

I found that I was treating the TS-1s like they were more game improvement than blade and I was babying them instead of treating them like a blade and swinging aggressively.

Gaming the TS-2 I have been swinging easier and it has done extremely well. Yet when swung with an aggressive move they responde well. But the easier swing is just more manageable.

So I was finding I was taking the same easy style swing with the TS-1 and they don't really like it. They want to be treated like a players club and you need to let them RIP. Doing that makes them come alive.

I took the 7 irons into the sim and got some very interesting numbers.

The first one is the TS-2 7 iron they are 2° stronger and it shows in distance but you also see the effect of the higher COG as the spin numbers are much lower compared to the TS-1.

The TS-1 was showing the same height but spin numbers that are right on for a 7 iron.

 

The more time I devote the the TS-1 the more I understand them and really enjoy them. 7f41a5e0237744cb5214ad906f66e172.jpg22f62a6b7e5c6e52956bab265cd6e10b.jpg

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So even with 2 degrees more loft, they still launch the same, and actually give you more yardage (loft for loft). I'm still torn between these 2 sets. I just like the forgiveness factor of the ts2.
I was pretty surprised to see the peak height was the same as well. Oncourse I see the same gap when playing into the green. Even though it's a half club longer the gap is a bit tighter than it would be on paper. The forgiveness of the TS-2 is tough to over look if you need a little help. And in play the TS-2 goes so straight if I have the yardage right I bomb the flag all day long. My problem is I just dont practice my putting these days and the score card reflects that.
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Those TS-1's have really piqued my interest lately. I recently built a Maltby wedge and am really enjoying it.

 

I'd love to try one of these TS-1's out. For those of you with better club making skills than I, would you ever just buy one head? Put it on a test shaft. Spend some time with it on the range and course to give myself a proper feel for whether or not it will be a good fit. Best case scenario I love it and complete the full set around it. Worst case scenario I spent $50 as a rental fee. I don't eat the lost cost of flipping a full set. I enjoy building things and would gain some benefit in the time spent putting it together. I gain some valuable knowledge about how certain types of clubs perform for me. Am I being a little overly optimistic?

Driver - Cobra LTDx LS - 8*

Woods - Cobra LTDx 14*

Hybrids - Ping G425 19, 22, 26, 30

Irons - Maltby KE4 Max 8-GW

Wedges - Maltby TSW 54, 60

Putter - Scotty Cameron Futura X Armlock

 

My WITB Shenanigans

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