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Low bounce irons


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Having issues finding that perfect set of irons. My problem is that in North Texas, the ground most year round is like concrete. Being a sweeper, I struggle with getting the club under the ball. My miss is usually fat, and with such a hard ground, the irons I've tried so far tend to skip off the ground and top the ball or hit low on the bottom grooves and barely get in the air.

 

Currently I have a set of TM p790 and mizuno jpx 900 forged. I'm finding that the soles on the p790's are a bit too wide. The mizuno have leading edge and trailing edge sole relief which helps.

 

But wondering what else is out there that would have a straight sharp leading edge with low bounce.

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Move the ball back in your stanceMmmmmmm

Having issues finding that perfect set of irons. My problem is that in North Texas, the ground most year round is like concrete. Being a sweeper, I struggle with getting the club under the ball. My miss is usually fat, and with such a hard ground, the irons I've tried so far tend to skip off the ground and top the ball or hit low on the bottom grooves and barely get in the air.

 

Currently I have a set of TM p790 and mizuno jpx 900 forged. I'm finding that the soles on the p790's are a bit too wide. The mizuno have leading edge and trailing edge sole relief which helps.

 

But wondering what else is out there that would have a straight sharp leading edge with low bounce.

Move the ball back in your stance

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Take a look at the Ben Hogan Ft Worth Black. 2-3* of bounce on the irons.

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I understand the problem with Texas courses. I play there a few times a year. Dry and tight conditions are surprisingly common in SOCA and AZ.

 

You show 12 index on left. Going off that it's going to be difficult to find low bounce irons as they don't typically suite people that want forgiveness like P790 irons.

As stated above, moving the ball a tad back in your stance might help, but it turns your shot into more of a punch shot. Other options are to have a "profession" grind down bounce, but that can be problematic with P790's or go to more traditional irons like my Titleist 716CB's, which by comparison have lower bounce and weaker lofts than what game improvement and TM irons have.

 

TM, like other large OEM's, no longer post bounce #'s. FYI: TM P790's have 2-3* stronger lofts and lot more offset, etc.than more traditional irons, so you may experience a distance loss. Also, I suggest a call to TM for bounce numbers on your irons. :beach:

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Go to your local Goodwill and get some beater blades from the 70s and be a hero on golfwrx ;-)

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As Shipwreck says, move the ball back in your stance.

 

Circa 1994, while living in Denton TX, I swapped out my 1973 MacGregor MT blades for some Pro Tour irons (Eye2 clones). In the rather hard NTex conditions I did fine with the higher bounce irons as long as I hit ball first.

 

Moving the ball back will help you on this.

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I play in NTexas - last 2 months - lots of rain. If you're fat at all, whether low bounce Mizunos or high bounce - you lose speed. But yes, it's usually dry.

 

I haven't had issues with high bounce or low bounce clubs - IOW, the clubs may not be the issue. But then I always look at the guy in the mirror first. But look at the Mizuno 919 HM or Forged.

 

It may be a combo of club and swing. You might experiment with increasing swingweight with lead tape for more clubhead feel; you might work on getting weight more forward. If you're sweeping, sounds as if your arms are not an issue.

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Lots of advice about moving ball back. Of course, you need it in the correct position - maybe off the logo of your shirt, for long to mid irons and then back another ball or so for shorter clubs.

 

Moving the ball back can create a push, which if you don't set up correctly at address, can lead to a ball out to the right unless you set up the face angle at address for a push draw.

 

Since I work constantly on the fat issue, as I said above, I work on sequencing, getting off the back foot and on the front foot as the first moves in the transition.

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If you're hitting it so far behind the ball you're skipping into it and topping the ball I can guarantee it's not the bounce that's the issue.

Hitting fat is never a good play, but the OP did describe it as a "miss". However, even a ball first strike off very firm turf/hardpan can cause issues if the club has too much bounce or a very high CoG. Just because it is ball first doesn't mean the bottom of the club never strikes turf or ground while still in contact with the ball. Forward shaft lean helps, but can become a negative sum game between extra launch from impacting the ball closer to the vertical CoG vs the excessive shaft lean to get that impact position.

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If you're hitting it so far behind the ball you're skipping into it and topping the ball I can guarantee it's not the bounce that's the issue.

Hitting fat is never a good play, but the OP did describe it as a "miss". However, even a ball first strike off very firm turf/hardpan can cause issues if the club has too much bounce or a very high CoG. Just because it is ball first doesn't mean the bottom of the club never strikes turf or ground while still in contact with the ball. Forward shaft lean helps, but can become a negative sum game between extra launch from impacting the ball closer to the vertical CoG vs the excessive shaft lean to get that impact position.

 

The 900 Forged 7 iron has 3 degrees of bounce, if that's too much bounce then he's hitting it with his hands a foot behind the ball at impact.

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The biggest issue is you're playing iron designs with sweet-spots (AVCOG) that are too high, for you and the conditions you play in.

 

The harder the turf, the tighter the ball sits to the ground, which makes getting the sweet-spot....to or better yet underneath the center of the ball more difficult. No "cushion" under the ball.

 

Try something with a much lower sweet-spot. The Maltby TE and DBM (same design, different finish) are the ones I would recommend trying, because they have one of the lowest AVCOG's available today.

 

They have an AVCOG that is .675". Compare that to the Mizuno JPX 900 that is .824" and P790 that are .774".

 

This aspect will help minimize hitting shots "thin" from tight lies

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Hard pan or firm, tight turf conditions require more of a sweeping motion as opposed to digging. Ever notice the lack of divots on the tight firm turf at the Masters; players adjust swings or club head specs. And it's not always the bounce, but sole width and leading edge combined with bounce and camber in the wrong hands that cause poorly struck balls. :beach:

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