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Can I feel 1/2" Shaft Change?


tom.lockhart

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I recently was fit for some AP1s with i95 steelfiber shafts. I have been playing clubs bought off the rack my entire life.

 

The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

Could this be the 1/2" short effect?

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Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
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I recently was fit for some AP1s with i95 steelfiber shafts. I have been playing clubs bought off the rack my entire life.

 

The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

Could this be the 1/2" short effect?

 

Yes. And there’s a swingweight issue. They will be a bit light unless they added tip weights.

 

How tall are you and what is your wrist to floor measurement?

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I recently was fit for some AP1s with i95 steelfiber shafts. I have been playing clubs bought off the rack my entire life.

 

The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

Could this be the 1/2" short effect?

 

Yes. And there’s a swingweight issue. They will be a bit light unless they added tip weights.

 

How tall are you and what is your wrist to floor measurement?

 

Clubs were ordered with D1 swingweight from Titleist.

 

I'm 5'7" with about a 33.5" floor to wrist.

Titleist TSi3 10* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist U510 21* HZRDUS Black Smoke
Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
Titleist SM7 52.8F - Jet Black
Titleist SM9 56.10S - Jet Black
2013 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 (Black Mist) - 34"
2021 Titleist ProV1

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I recently was fit for some AP1s with i95 steelfiber shafts. I have been playing clubs bought off the rack my entire life.

 

The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

Could this be the 1/2" short effect?

 

Yes. And there’s a swingweight issue. They will be a bit light unless they added tip weights.

 

How tall are you and what is your wrist to floor measurement?

 

Clubs were ordered with D1 swingweight from Titleist.

 

I'm 5'7" with about a 33.5" floor to wrist.

 

Interesting.. EXACTLY my height and wrist to floor and I’d never consider playing under standard length irons.

 

I do play my fairway woods and hybrids an inch short, and the driver 1.5 inches short, but not the irons.

 

If you’ve played standard length your whole life I would not change that. My 2 cents. I was a professional fitter and instructor for 6 years if that adds any weight to my opinion.

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I recently was fit for some AP1s with i95 steelfiber shafts. I have been playing clubs bought off the rack my entire life.

 

The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

Could this be the 1/2" short effect?

 

Yes. And there’s a swingweight issue. They will be a bit light unless they added tip weights.

 

How tall are you and what is your wrist to floor measurement?

 

Clubs were ordered with D1 swingweight from Titleist.

 

I'm 5'7" with about a 33.5" floor to wrist.

 

Interesting.. EXACTLY my height and wrist to floor and I’d never consider playing under standard length irons.

 

I do play my fairway woods and hybrids an inch short, and the driver 1.5 inches short, but not the irons.

 

If you’ve played standard length your whole life I would not change that. My 2 cents. I was a professional fitter and instructor for 6 years if that adds any weight to my opinion.

 

Can I safely add 1/2" to a shaft? Even if it's a steelfiber graphite?

 

What does that do to the lie angle?

 

 

Titleist TSi3 10* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist U510 21* HZRDUS Black Smoke
Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
Titleist SM7 52.8F - Jet Black
Titleist SM9 56.10S - Jet Black
2013 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 (Black Mist) - 34"
2021 Titleist ProV1

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I recently was fit for some AP1s with i95 steelfiber shafts. I have been playing clubs bought off the rack my entire life.

 

The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

Could this be the 1/2" short effect?

 

Yes. And there’s a swingweight issue. They will be a bit light unless they added tip weights.

 

How tall are you and what is your wrist to floor measurement?

 

Clubs were ordered with D1 swingweight from Titleist.

 

I'm 5'7" with about a 33.5" floor to wrist.

 

Interesting.. EXACTLY my height and wrist to floor and I’d never consider playing under standard length irons.

 

I do play my fairway woods and hybrids an inch short, and the driver 1.5 inches short, but not the irons.

 

If you’ve played standard length your whole life I would not change that. My 2 cents. I was a professional fitter and instructor for 6 years if that adds any weight to my opinion.

 

Can I safely add 1/2" to a shaft? Even if it's a steelfiber graphite?

 

What does that do to the lie angle?

 

Yes. You can add extensions to any graphite shaft.

 

The effective lie angles will be 1/2 degree more upright. It’s a one to one relationship. +1/2 inch = +1/2 degree. Very subtle.

 

Swingweight will go up about 3 points to D-4.

 

Part of it may be the swingweight being a touch low. Try adding a couple pieces of lead tape to each iron before you bother with extensions.

 

If you’ve never had lightweight shafts that could be an issue as well. I hate anything under 110 grams.

 

Quite honestly, I would think the real issue would be a swingweight problem or a shaft weight problem rather than a length problem.

 

Each iron in a set is 1/2 inch shorter than the next. So really, the only true problem with shorter than standard irons would lie in the wedges and 9 iron being 1/2 inch shorter than you are used to. All the others aren’t really effected if you think about it.

 

Your 1/2 inch short 8 iron is really your old 9 iron length. Your 1/2 inch short 7 iron is really your old 8 iron length, and so on. It’s not like you haven’t hit those length clubs before. Make sense?

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Yes. You can add extensions to any graphite shaft.

 

The effective lie angles will be 1/2 degree more upright. It's a one to one relationship. +1/2 inch = +1/2 degree. Very subtle.

 

Swingweight will go up about 3 points to D-4.

 

Part of it may be the swingweight being a touch low. Try adding a couple pieces of lead tape to each iron before you bother with extensions.

 

If you've never had lightweight shafts that could be an issue as well. I hate anything under 110 grams.

 

Quite honestly, I would think the real issue would be a swingweight problem or a shaft weight problem rather than a length problem.

 

Each iron in a set is 1/2 inch shorter than the next. So really, the only true problem with shorter than standard irons would lie in the wedges and 9 iron being 1/2 inch shorter than you are used to. All the others aren't really effected if you think about it.

 

Your 1/2 inch short 8 iron is really your old 9 iron length. Your 1/2 inch short 7 iron is really your old 8 iron length, and so on. It's not like you haven't hit those length clubs before. Make sense?

 

Thank you for this.

 

Where I notice the toe strikes most is on the shortest clubs, the PW and the W.

 

for the last 8 years, i was swinging True Temper Dynalite Gold XP shafts in R300, i think around 115gs. Now i'm down to 95gs.

 

How much and where should I apply the lead tape?

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Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
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Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
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Tape generally applied to back of club head, and how much depends on what your swing weights are now and what you want them to be. General rule is 2 grams of lead tape for one swing weight point.

 

Thank you!

 

Does it matter where I do it on the back of the iron? lower or higher?

Titleist TSi3 10* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist U510 21* HZRDUS Black Smoke
Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
Titleist SM7 52.8F - Jet Black
Titleist SM9 56.10S - Jet Black
2013 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 (Black Mist) - 34"
2021 Titleist ProV1

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At 5’ 7” and a 33.5” wtf the -1/2” makes sense, the .5* up does not.

 

Since even your shortest club will be plenty long enough for your wtf height I’d look at the lie angles being too upright.

 

Flatten a full 1* and that should move the strike location towards the center.

 

The fitter told me that shortening the clubs will make them flatter, so really the .5* upright will make them standard after the shaft shortening. If I were to flatten then, would I flatten just 1 degree, or go 1.5 to get to 1 full degree flat? (currently at +.5*)

 

I do think my swingweights are jacked up, compared the new clubs to my old 712 AP1s that were d2, and the 712's felt so much heavier and solid. i then did some digging and saw that sometimes Titleist won't build to the desired SW when using lighter shafts. Can anyone attest to that?

Titleist TSi3 10* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist U510 21* HZRDUS Black Smoke
Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
Titleist SM7 52.8F - Jet Black
Titleist SM9 56.10S - Jet Black
2013 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 (Black Mist) - 34"
2021 Titleist ProV1

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At 5’ 7” and a 33.5” wtf the -1/2” makes sense, the .5* up does not.

 

Since even your shortest club will be plenty long enough for your wtf height I’d look at the lie angles being too upright.

 

Flatten a full 1* and that should move the strike location towards the center.

 

The fitter told me that shortening the clubs will make them flatter, so really the .5* upright will make them standard after the shaft shortening.

 

This literally drives me nuts! Fit the clubs for length. For your height height and wtf -1/2” is a good start, should probably go a touch shorter. Then fit for lie angle. Hit some balls and adjust accordingly. Arbitrarily increasing lie angle because the length was made shorter is useless and has nothing to do with being properly fit. At best what the fitter told you is a half truth.

 

You have three choices, 1) make the clubs longer, which for height and wtf, makes zero sense, 2) use a club head with a longer blade length, which means you’d have to buy new clubs and again is not necessary, and 3) make the lie angle flatter, which makes sense because the existing clubs are long enough and flattening the lie will move the strike towards the center

 

Flatten 1* from where you are now. You are only trying to move the strike location to the center. Then go play them for a few rounds. See where on the face the ball is making contact. If not in the center, try another 1/2* flatter. Your club length is not the issue. Now shaft weight could be playing a role but there really is no reason why these clubs can not have a center strike location.

 

 

 

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The fitting came out to be 1/2" short on the length and .5* upright. Since getting the irons I have been struggling and am very susceptible to toe shots at the moment, basically everything is being hit towards the toe side of the iron.

 

 

How did he fit you for lie angle? was a lie board used? When he fit the lie dynamically, were you actually hitting clubs that were the length you were fit into (1/2" short) or were standard length clubs used and the lie angle converted later for the fit length?

 

What shaft was in the set you used before these (shaft before switching the the steelfiber's)?

 

Lie boards are very unreliable and not really the recommended way to dynamically test the lie angle of the clubs. Using a white board marker to put a vertical line on the ball is much more reliable AND always should be done with the clubs at the fitted length (and SW). Here is a thread that outlines the process (and you don't really need the labels).

 

http://www.golfwrx.c... angle labels

 

I suggest you test this first before changing anything (length or lie). If the lie angles are good and you are still getting the toe hits with the shorter irons, then you might want to think about lengthening those shorter irons (but probably not extend the whole set).

 

 

What about any SW or LW's - what's their length compared to the PW or GW in the new set? Are you having the same toe miss with them?

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At 5' 7" and a 33.5" wtf the -1/2" makes sense, the .5* up does not.

 

Since even your shortest club will be plenty long enough for your wtf height I'd look at the lie angles being too upright.

 

Flatten a full 1* and that should move the strike location towards the center.

 

The fitter told me that shortening the clubs will make them flatter, so really the .5* upright will make them standard after the shaft shortening.

 

This literally drives me nuts! Fit the clubs for length. For your height height and wtf -1/2" is a good start, should probably go a touch shorter. Then fit for lie angle. Hit some balls and adjust accordingly. Arbitrarily increasing lie angle because the length was made shorter is useless and has nothing to do with being properly fit. At best what the fitter told you is a half truth.

 

You have three choices, 1) make the clubs longer, which for height and wtf, makes zero sense, 2) use a club head with a longer blade length, which means you'd have to buy new clubs and again is not necessary, and 3) make the lie angle flatter, which makes sense because the existing clubs are long enough and flattening the lie will move the strike towards the center

 

Flatten 1* from where you are now. You are only trying to move the strike location to the center. Then go play them for a few rounds. See where on the face the ball is making contact. If not in the center, try another 1/2* flatter. Your club length is not the issue. Now shaft weight could be playing a role but there really is no reason why these clubs can not have a center strike location.

 

 

 

 

All this is fine, but dont underestimate head wgt who should have been mentioned by Summitt, so what he need as a start, is simply a roll of lead tape, and add a strip at the time and check for how it feels, and if it moves impact against the center like it should when toe impact is the problem, but play length is good. (this is by the book and should not come as any surprise)

 

But you are correct about lie angles, they should always be done in a dynamic test, after both play length and head wgt is dialed in, but a static calc like in this case (0.5 shorter = adjust 0.5 upright) can be used as a starting point.

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Howard with all due respect this is not a headweight issue. This is a 5' 7" golfer with a WTF of 33.5" using Titleist AP1's who should never have been given an upright club simply because the club length was made -1/2". If the clubs were along the lines of -2" then maybe .5* up makes sense. Summitt has it correct from my experiences.

 

 

This fitter made an arbitrary decision to alter lie angle based on a length change without testing. The entire premise of the clubs are '-1/2" therefore the lie angle should be increased by .5*" is simply an incorrect assumption. You and I understand this is not how a fitting works.

 

Lastly from Roy McNix, changes in head weight alter face angle, changes in total weight alter swing path.

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Howard with all due respect this is not a headweight issue. This is a 5' 7" golfer with a WTF of 33.5" using Titleist AP1's who should never have been given an upright club simply because the club length was made -1/2". If the clubs were along the lines of -2" then maybe .5* up makes sense. Summitt has it correct from my experiences.

 

 

This fitter made an arbitrary decision to alter lie angle based on a length change without testing. The entire premise of the clubs are '-1/2" therefore the lie angle should be increased by .5*" is simply an incorrect assumption. You and I understand this is not how a fitting works.

 

Lastly from Roy McNix, changes in head weight alter face angle, changes in total weight alter swing path.

 

its only days since i helped out another player with a similar case.

http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry17872862

 

and it worked out...

http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry18106770

 

So, if the set is cut down 0.5" take a look on head wgt, we never know whats done, and no

matter whats done, if that value is no good for the player it want work no matter how "tight specs" they are build to when those specs is wrong for the player. Just like lie angle, we need a test to figure out, and thats my suggestion, try some added head wgt and pay attention, it might be all it takes to move a toe side impact to the center of the face like this player in the link did.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Howard with all due respect this is not a headweight issue. This is a 5' 7" golfer with a WTF of 33.5" using Titleist AP1's who should never have been given an upright club simply because the club length was made -1/2". If the clubs were along the lines of -2" then maybe .5* up makes sense. Summitt has it correct from my experiences.

 

 

This fitter made an arbitrary decision to alter lie angle based on a length change without testing. The entire premise of the clubs are '-1/2" therefore the lie angle should be increased by .5*" is simply an incorrect assumption. You and I understand this is not how a fitting works.

 

Lastly from Roy McNix, changes in head weight alter face angle, changes in total weight alter swing path.

 

I had one fitter due this in reverse. Added a 1/2 inch and adjusted the lie by a negative.5 . It worked but I took a 1/2 off the shaft and left the -.5 and played without a negative effect on my swing but then again I’m a no talent lefty.

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Irons: PXG Gen4 XP 9-GW

Wedges: PXG 0311 52 56 degree Forged

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I had one fitter due this in reverse. Added a 1/2 inch and adjusted the lie by a negative.5 . It worked but I took a 1/2 off the shaft and left the -.5 and played without a negative effect on my swing but then again I’m a no talent lefty.

 

It's the same arbitrary change in lie angle due to a length change. Useless!

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Beginning to think weight is one of the most over looked factors in club fitting. I'm not a builder or fitter, just a long time tinkerer.

 

Order of importance seems to vary among different builders and fitters. But I rarely see or hear about "fitters" taking the time to address the below variables.

 

Weight(total and swing weight)

Length

Grip size

 

They are all dependent on each other but talk to anyone who was recently "fit" and ask how much time was spent on any of these areas and large percentage will say none. And trying different shaft weights doesn't really count in my books, as it's only one aspect of fitting the weight variable.

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Beginning to think weight is one of the most over looked factors in club fitting. I'm not a builder or fitter, just a long time tinkerer.

 

Order of importance seems to vary among different builders and fitters. But I rarely see or hear about "fitters" taking the time to address the below variables.

 

Weight(total and swing weight)

Length

Grip size

 

They are all dependent on each other but talk to anyone who was recently "fit" and ask how much time was spent on any of these areas and large percentage will say none. And trying different shaft weights doesn't really count in my books, as it's only one aspect of fitting the weight variable.

 

You nailed it, the most overlooked parameters is total weight and balance, and they come as #2 and #3 in importance after play length, and hardly any place who offers "club fitting" pay attention to them at all.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Thanks for all the feedback.

 

To clear a few things up with the fitting, it was done at Club Champion and the progressions was something like this:

  1. Hit about 10 shots with my current 6 iron
  2. Measurements done on my current 6 iron (SW, lie, loft) and then on myself and that's when we began testing shafts, all were 1/2" short.
  3. Worked through about 20 shafts and it was clear there were 2 that were working out much better, the numbers with the i95 had us settled on that
  4. Then we worked through about 8 different heads and the AP1 head was producing the best results
  5. After this, he then was adding lead tape to the hosel to determine SW, we settled on a D1 swingweight
  6. After this we did the vertical line test to determine lie angle, I will say that when doing the vertical test we looked at both the standard shaft and the 1/2" shorter - coinincidentally, the strikes on the 1/2" shorter were a bit towards the toe, but lower on the face, the strikes with the 1/2" longer, were right in the center of the clubface but a little high on the face. The fitter determined that the 1/2" shorter was the choice for me.

I'm going to take the clubs to where I ordered them tomorrow and have the SW's checked, we clearly specified to Titleist that we wanted a D1 swingweight, but I've read a few other posts with these exact same shafts that sometimes Titleist won't be able to add enough weight to take the clubs to the specified SW. Which seems a little BS to me, but we'll see. I've had the sticks for about 3 weeks, if they weren't built at the proper SW is this something I could send back to Titleist?

 

Once I know what the actual SW is - I'm going to add lead tape to get them to where I believe they should be - D1/D2 SW. I'm going to play with them for a few rounds/range sessions and see if things change.

Titleist TSi3 10* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist U510 21* HZRDUS Black Smoke
Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
Titleist SM7 52.8F - Jet Black
Titleist SM9 56.10S - Jet Black
2013 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 (Black Mist) - 34"
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I’ll say first off that I know virtually nothing about fitting, building or anything that falls anywhere in those areas.

 

But, it sounded like you had made an awful lot of swings before you guys got around to swing weight and lie angle. Is it possible fatigue was factoring in and maybe skewing some of the numbers?


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Where I notice the toe strikes most is on the shortest clubs, the PW and the W.

 

Unfortunately, 1/2" shorter with a 6i being a good fit doesn't always translate to a 1/2" short for the PW also being a good (or better) fit. And just as importantly, the same can be said for swing weight. D1 for a 6 iron being 'ideal' doesn't mean D1 will be the ideal for the PW or 9i.

 

 

So first thing I'd recommend is (before having it measured) just taking the PW or 9 iron to the range and add the tape incrementally a few grams at a time and see if the strike improves (and how much weight it takes to get that improvement). Then you can check the SW (both with the resulting amount of tape and without to see what it was when you started). If it does help, great. And you can use that to come up with a SW 'slope' for the clubs between. If it doens't help, or at least not enough, then you might consider going longer with the shorter clubs - or maybe use 3/8" increments instead of a 1/2" (keeping the 6i length the same).

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You can measure SW value without a SW scale, but you need a gram scale and a metric ruler

 

Balance the club on one finger to find the approximate BP

Add some painters tape around the shaft at this spot.

Put a knife in a vise with the edge up, and put the club with the painters tape on the knife edge

Adjust the club back and forth until you find the spot where the club can rest in balance

Push the club down against the knife to set a mark in the tape (not the shaft, thats why we added the tape)

Measure from the butt end of the grip and down to this knife mark (balance point) and take notes

Rip of the painter tape and put the club on a gram scale to get the total wgt in grams

 

Go to this web page, and enter total wgt and distance to BP and the page will return a SW value

http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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6. After this we did the vertical line test to determine lie angle, I will say that when doing the vertical test we looked at both the standard shaft and the 1/2" shorter - coinincidentally, the strikes on the 1/2" shorter were a bit towards the toe, but lower on the face, the strikes with the 1/2" longer, were right in the center of the clubface but a little high on the face. The fitter determined that the 1/2" shorter was the choice for me.

 

 

So you did not actually hit the -1/2"/+.5* combo.

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Were you hitting off mats or outside?

 

Might be nit picky but I would think if you were hitting in the center and used to a certain length club that would be the best option to start with. Hit the club's for a couple weeks then take them down. 1/4 inch at a time if you were hitting high on the face or near the heal. Easier to go shorter then longer after the fact, especially when dealing with a pricey shaft option.

 

I'm guessing if you ordered half inch short from Titleist they may have come back too light. I think the limit the amount of tip weight they will put in from factory. What grip size did you order?

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Were you hitting off mats or outside?

 

Might be nit picky but I would think if you were hitting in the center and used to a certain length club that would be the best option to start with. Hit the club's for a couple weeks then take them down. 1/4 inch at a time if you were hitting high on the face or near the heal. Easier to go shorter then longer after the fact, especially when dealing with a pricey shaft option.

 

I'm guessing if you ordered half inch short from Titleist they may have come back too light. I think the limit the amount of tip weight they will put in from factory. What grip size did you order?

 

I'm thinking the same, the clubs feel VERY light compared to my old set, not just from the shaft being lighter, but the heads feel lighter when I swing. I did order them at 1/2" short and standard golf pride tour velvet grips. I was indoors on a mat with Trackman.

 

I will note I have an out to in club path, but with my old irons I would still hit them majority of the time in the center, the misshits would be out towards the toe. Those were standard length and standard lie.

 

6. After this we did the vertical line test to determine lie angle, I will say that when doing the vertical test we looked at both the standard shaft and the 1/2" shorter - coinincidentally, the strikes on the 1/2" shorter were a bit towards the toe, but lower on the face, the strikes with the 1/2" longer, were right in the center of the clubface but a little high on the face. The fitter determined that the 1/2" shorter was the choice for me.

 

 

So you did not actually hit the -1/2"/+.5* combo.

 

I don't believe that I did, if I did, it would been the very few shots to determine the swing weight.

Titleist TSi3 10* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 15* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist TSi2 Hybrid 18* HZRDUS Black Smoke RDX
Titleist U510 21* HZRDUS Black Smoke
Titleist 718 AP1 5-GW i95 Steelfiber
Titleist SM7 52.8F - Jet Black
Titleist SM9 56.10S - Jet Black
2013 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 (Black Mist) - 34"
2021 Titleist ProV1

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