Same driver shaft as fairway woods?

[MCGolfTM]

Wondering what the consensus is on here about playing the same shaft in your fairways as you do your driver? I recently moved from the Kuro Kage 60 stiff (65g) to the Fuji Pro 73 (74g) and moved to M3 and like that set up. Am thinking of getting the M4 fairways to replace the '16 M2 fairways with Kuro Kage 70g shafts.

 

Should I stick with the 74g Fuji Pro in the fairway woods just like the new driver?

[Radeon962]

If it works for your swing why not.

 

I play 70g in my driver and 80g in my 4w.

 

Some prefer a softer tip/mid type shaft for their Fairway wood.

 

Whiteboard/D+/Tensei White Pro in the diver and Blueboard/S+/Tensei Blue Pro in the Fairway.

 

I prefer a tip stiff and mid so I'm in the 1st category with my driver and Fairway, Tensei White Pro in driver and D+ 80 in my 4w.

[princelyryno]

Are you asking about using the same brand in your driver as your fairway, or using a fairway shaft in a driver? Does anyone have any experience using a fairway shaft in a driver? I'd like to get a shorter length driver and wondered if using a fairway wood shaft is better than cutting it 3".

[MCGolfTM]

Are you asking about using the same brand in your driver as your fairway, or using a fairway shaft in a driver? Does anyone have any experience using a fairway shaft in a driver? I'd like to get a shorter length driver and wondered if using a fairway wood shaft is better than cutting it 3".

 

I am only asking to use the same shaft in both, but cut to standard lengths for each.

[Z1ggy16]

I tend to like heavier in the fwy woods to keep tempo in check and also keep my flight a little lower and penetrating. I had a 60g shaft in my old 3w and it felt so light... it encouraged me to try and swing too hard. With a mid 70's weight, I feel a little more weight in my hands and keeps tempo in check. Ball flight is lower and spin is lower, too.

[MCGolfTM]

I tend to like heavier in the fwy woods to keep tempo in check and also keep my flight a little lower and penetrating. I had a 60g shaft in my old 3w and it felt so light... it encouraged me to try and swing too hard. With a mid 70's weight, I feel a little more weight in my hands and keeps tempo in check. Ball flight is lower and spin is lower, too.

 

My current set has 60g Kuro in driver and 70g Kuro in the woods. I would be going up in the driver to 74g and was thinking of going to same shaft in the woods which was be 74g too. I have lower flight with the Fuji Pro over the Kuro and wondering if that would be good move for my woods too to follow along with the driver shaft.

[Stuart_G]

Lots of possibilities (everyone is a bit different) but it is more common for folks to find it better to go a bit heavier in the fairways then in the driver - but then neither is it unheard of for folks to use the same weight.

 

How much heavier is a big question and not easy to answer with some trial and error - but a general rule of thumb for a starting place in the fitting process is about 5 gm difference in shaft weight per 1" difference in playing length. So if the driver is 2" longer then the 3wd, you might try 10 gm heavier in the 3wd.

[MCGolfTM]

Lots of possibilities (everyone is a bit different) but it is more common for folks to find it better to go a bit heavier in the fairways then in the driver - but then neither is it unheard of for folks to use the same weight. How much heavier is a big question and not easy to answer with some trial and error - but a general rule of thumb for a starting place in the fitting process is about 5 gm difference in shaft weight per 1" difference in playing length. So if the driver is 2" longer then the 3wd, you might try 10 gm heavier in the 3wd.

 

I was fit last year for the 60g driver and the same for the woods but at 70g. This year I cannot get a full fitting for these at the momnet cause the local shops don't have the shaft.

 

The only reason that I would be the same weight this year is because I went up in weight for the driver. If I go with the Fuji in the woods, I wouldn't be adding any weight over my current 70g woods shafts.

[Stuart_G]

Lots of possibilities (everyone is a bit different) but it is more common for folks to find it better to go a bit heavier in the fairways then in the driver - but then neither is it unheard of for folks to use the same weight. How much heavier is a big question and not easy to answer with some trial and error - but a general rule of thumb for a starting place in the fitting process is about 5 gm difference in shaft weight per 1" difference in playing length. So if the driver is 2" longer then the 3wd, you might try 10 gm heavier in the 3wd.

 

I was fit last year for the 60g driver and the same for the woods but at 70g. This year I cannot get a full fitting for these at the momnet cause the local shops don't have the shaft.

 

The only reason that I would be the same weight this year is because I went up in weight for the driver. If I go with the Fuji in the woods, I wouldn't be adding any weight over my current 70g woods shafts.

 

If the best fit for weight with the driver went up since the last fitting, it's also possible it could go up for the fairway as well - but then it's also possible that it might not. Again, the actual difference in playing length as well as other factors can make a difference.

 

You can do your own test with your current clubs to see if a heavier weight in the fairway might help or not. Just get some lead tape and wrap it around the shaft below the grip. Add about 5 gm at a time, go hit some balls and repeat. See if there is any noticeable change in feel or the results as the weight goes up (ball flight, feel, consistency, impact quality, etc...). You don't really need an LM to get a half way decent idea of what will be a good fit or not.

[getitdaily]

If the shafts work for you then why not.

 

I've gone down this road twice and had it not work out.

 

I put a ust v2 in my driver and 3wood whem I played the rbz tour driver/3wood. The driver shaft worked great. The 3 wood (76g) v2 didn't work so well. The 3wood was low spin and when combined with a tipped, low spin v2...no good. Super inconsistent.

 

Then late last year I put a rogue silver in the driver. It worked (and works) fantastically in my 2016 m2 driver. Tried the rogue silver 70 in the 3wood and just didn't like it. I tried it in the 16 m1 and 17 m2 3woods and didn't like it in either. Now play the speeder 757 evo 2 in the 3wood and like it a lot.

[GMR2iron]

Up until recently, I had a Matrix Black Tie in driver, and a 10 gram heavier Red Tie in 3 wood. I have since put a Tensei v3 Orange in my driver, going to try a Tensei Blue in 3 wood.

[midwayj]

Are you asking about using the same brand in your driver as your fairway, or using a fairway shaft in a driver? Does anyone have any experience using a fairway shaft in a driver? I'd like to get a shorter length driver and wondered if using a fairway wood shaft is better than cutting it 3".

 

I have done this and it works fine for shorter drivers. I use heavier driver shafts, too. Whether it's a fairway shaft or not doesn't matter to me as long as it's 75-80 grams.

[shackmangolf]

Can someone tell me why the following statement is not correct?

 

If you find a great driver shaft for your specific swing, you should use that same shaft for your fairway woods in a weight that keeps swing weights consistent across clubs.

 

For example, I like a specific Diamana 60 gram shaft in my driver, I should start with that same shaft in a 70 gram weight for my 3 wood. This gives me a consistent shaft for my specific swing across my woods.

 

Most shaft brands would recommend this or have "families" of shafts with consistent EI curves for drivers and fairway woods. Also, if you look at the pros WITB's, most have the same brand shaft (and often model) in their driver and fairways, with just different weights.

 

What am I missing?

[Stuart_G]

Can someone tell me why the following statement is not correct?

 

I wont tell it's never true but I can tell you why it may not be correct in certain cases. And static weight control isn't exactly about maintaining swing weight - it's related but a bit different.

 

1) not everyone actually has the same swing for their driver and fairways (sometimes intentional, sometimes not). Different swings can potentially result in different requirements on the shaft spec.

 

2) Some people prefer different shaft characteristics because they want to alter the ball flight a bit. e.g. use a softer tip shaft in the fairway to get a little more launch/spin and a softer landing. Distance in the driver but better distance control in the fairways.

 

3) Depends on the specific make and model but it is actually not uncommon for the stiffness profile to change as the weight changes. So if they want a similar profile/feel from the shaft, they have to use different shaft models to keep the profile similar in different weights.

[Bomber_11]

I'm a big proponent of staying within the same family for your driver and fairway wood shafts.

 

Typically I think something that helps elevate a little and possibly even spin a little more is a better match for the fairway wood. Like it was noted above, Tensei White or Orange in driver and Tensei Blue in fairway wood is a killer setup.

[gioguy21]

I'm a big proponent of staying within the same family for your driver and fairway wood shafts.

 

Typically I think something that helps elevate a little and possibly even spin a little more is a better match for the fairway wood. Like it was noted above, Tensei White or Orange in driver and Tensei Blue in fairway wood is a killer setup.

i second this post in its entirety. lol

[tnrts345]

My current setup is a HZRDUS Black 75g X in the driver while I have a HZRDUS Yellow 85g X in my 3 wood. I think that the yellow has a nice balance but I will be staying in the same family of shafts in all of my woods going forward. I know what to expect with both shafts

[getitdaily]

Can someone tell me why the following statement is not correct?

 

I wont tell it's never true but I can tell you why it may not be correct in certain cases. And static weight control isn't exactly about maintaining swing weight - it's related but a bit different.

 

1) not everyone actually has the same swing for their driver and fairways (sometimes intentional, sometimes not). Different swings can potentially result in different requirements on the shaft spec.

 

2) Some people prefer different shaft characteristics because they want to alter the ball flight a bit. e.g. use a softer tip shaft in the fairway to get a little more launch/spin and a softer landing. Distance in the driver but better distance control in the fairways.

 

3) Depends on the specific make and model but it is actually not uncommon for the stiffness profile to change as the weight changes. So if they want a similar profile/feel from the shaft, they have to use different shaft models to keep the profile similar in different weights.

 

Case in point for #3 are the rogue and proforce v2 shafts.

 

Take a look at titleist's shaft guide and look at where the rogue silver and v2 profiles line up as the shaft gets heavier...

[Stuart_G]

Not sure I'd trust that chart entirely although UST's is one of the manufacturers that traditionally make their shafts stiffer as the weight increases. Probably more so then any of the other shaft companies.

 

Aldila, on the other hand, more often then not seems to want to keep the profiles similar over different weights. Here are a couple examples you can barely tell there are multiple shafts on the graphs.

 

 

 

 

[getitdaily]

Not sure I'd trust that chart entirely although UST's is one of the manufacturers that traditionally make their shafts stiffer as the weight increases. Probably more so then any of the other shaft companies.

 

Aldila, on the other hand, more often then not seems to want to keep the profiles similar over different weights. Here are a couple examples you can barely tell there are multiple shafts on the graphs.

 

 

 

 

 

What do the rogue silver profiles look like?

 

Where do you get profile graph info from?

[Stuart_G]

What do the rogue silver profiles look like?

 

Where do you get profile graph info from?

 

Sorry, I don't have data in the Silver for the same flex but different weights.

 

The profiles originally come from the Wishon fitting software. I collected them from other posts in the forum over the years.

[getitdaily]

What do the rogue silver profiles look like?

 

Where do you get profile graph info from?

 

Sorry, I don't have data in the Silver for the same flex but different weights.

 

The profiles originally come from the Wishon fitting software. I collected them from other posts in the forum over the years.

 

I figured that was the wishon data.

[NPVWhiz]

Can someone tell me why the following statement is not correct?

 

If you find a great driver shaft for your specific swing, you should use that same shaft for your fairway woods in a weight that keeps swing weights consistent across clubs.

 

For example, I like a specific Diamana 60 gram shaft in my driver, I should start with that same shaft in a 70 gram weight for my 3 wood. This gives me a consistent shaft for my specific swing across my woods.

 

Most shaft brands would recommend this or have "families" of shafts with consistent EI curves for drivers and fairway woods. Also, if you look at the pros WITB's, most have the same brand shaft (and often model) in their driver and fairways, with just different weights.

 

What am I missing?

 

It would make sense, but I've only had it ever work out for me for one short stretch. I had a Titleist 905R with an Aldila VS Proto 65 paired with a Nickent 3DX Pro 14 3 wood with the VS Proto in 85. Those two clubs were a great match. I hit them both very well and they were easy to hit. I've had a few other matched pairs like that that I expected to work well together and just never did. I've always had it in my head that if you could somehow image the bend profile of the driver during a good swing with the old 905R, and then captured the same image of the matching fairway, that somehow there would be something in common with how they reacted dynamically during my swing. I wish that the OEM shaft makers could design shafts that were sort of intended to be paired up. Maybe they do, but in practice I've found it to be uncommon. I'll admit that most of those pairs that I'm thinking about are a little stale, from 8 or 10 years ago. NV 75 / NV 85; Speeder 757 / 869/ Pro 95, etc. Maybe I'm dating myself. Actually, I can't be dating myself, because I'm married.

 

I've had one main driver shaft in the bag for the last 10 years, and that one might the be closest I've gotten to recreating the goodness of that old matched pair. I took the same version of the driver shaft and tipped it an inch and a half, and it is just OK. The only other two that I've felt were really close in the last few years was the Aldila ATX Green 65 and ATX Green 75, but neither stayed in the bag because I didn't really like the feel of either one. But they seemed to pair well together if that makes sense. Having a well behaving driver, fairway wood and hybrid in the bag all at the same time would be a phenomenal accomplishment for me.

[NPVWhiz]

OK, I promise I wrote that post before I scrolled/read down further and saw the shaft profiles that were posted. That's a really WRX style coincidence in my book.

[NPVWhiz]

Just a bump noting that Luke Donald’s witb this week has him in the 2017 m2 driver and fairway, both with the Tensei blue in 70 TX. Score one for the same shaft in the driver and fw. Only one I’ve seen in quite a while.

[Bomber_11]

Just a bump noting that Luke Donald's witb this week has him in the 2017 m2 driver and fairway, both with the Tensei blue in 70 TX. Score one for the same shaft in the driver and fw. Only one I've seen in quite a while.

 

You'll see a lot of it, just rarely in the same weight.

 

Sergio IIRC has KuroKage XT 80TX in driver and both fairways.

 

Brooks Koepka uses Diamana Limited D+ 70TX in driver and 80TX in fairway wood.

 

Bomber_11 uses Tensei Pro White in driver and Pro Blue in 3-wood ;)

[GrandmasterJ]

Just want to get your guys opinion on this. I play g400 max 9 with a Tour X along with g400 3W and 3H all tour X. My normal swing speed is 103-105 on average however I’m starting to notice that im slicing more frequently with my driver. Im considering reshafting my driver with same ping tour shaft but in a stiff instead of X. My concern is can I get away with my 3w and 3h tour X or would it be wise to bring those down to stiff as well? Thanks very much!

[wkuo3]

Golf swing changes over time, keeping that in mind when comparing to a fitting result more than a year ago......

 

Noting wrong with using the same shaft for driver and the fairway woods. Considering the length of the driver is different than the fairway wood. To find the same feel for both is an individual adjustment issue. I had made a 3 wood with a driver shaft without tipping according to the OEM spec for 3 wood and the golfer thinks it;s the magic stick in his bag. He had it in play for more than 5 years now, beat it to hell but he would not part with it.

 

Another important consideration is, the driver swing on the golf ball sitting on the tee. Fairway woods most often swing at a golf ball sitting on the turf. Consistent contact is the key for fairway woods....... Good luck during your hunt for the perfect 3 wood shaft.