What's the point in lengthening irons?

[tgoodspe1991]

I'd love to open a discussion here so I can better understand this topic. I'm by no means criticizing anyone's choice of club length, but merely trying to learn more. As anyone here, I'm just looking for more ways to tweak things and improve little by little!

 

I'm 6'1" with a 36.5" wrist-to-floor with a standard to taller posture. I did the Ping WebFit, and looked at some charts online, and relatively by all accounts it says a good fit for me would be irons +1/2" long.

 

My question is, how will making my 7-iron the length of my 6-iron actually be beneficial in the end?

 

The main benefit I guess I'm seeing, and maybe this will answer my question, is in the shortest irons/wedges. I've always felt an off-the-rack lob-wedge or sand-wedge always feels a hair short. I've also always fought being a little steep when it comes to the wedges and 9-iron sometimes. So maybe lengthening or shortening a set has the primary benefit of moving the longest or shortest clubs for a golfer so they can be more effective, and it's not really about the middle range of lengths?

 

Would love to hear thoughts!

[Rosco1216]

Its most beneficial in the short irons and wedges to prevent crowding but in the mid to long irons there isn't that same benefit. I'm also 6'1' with shorter arms so in theory I'm supposed to be in 1/2' to 3/4". I play my clubs in 3/8" increments so my wedges are roughly 1" long but my 4i is basically "standard length".

[Howard_Jones]

Its most beneficial in the short irons and wedges to prevent crowding but in the mid to long irons there isn't that same benefit. I'm also 6'1' with shorter arms so in theory I'm supposed to be in 1/2' to 3/4". I play my clubs in 3/8" increments so my wedges are roughly 1" long but my 4i is basically "standard length".

 

You are spot on, its about the short end, in the long end we are limited by eye to hand coordination, and often in SW matched sets, to high actual resistance for the player. Thats why i

I strongly advocate 3/8" for both players who fit over length, standard or shorter, there is a 3/8" set up for each need, and we cant make a classic 4/8" set to fit that good on both ends of a set, its not possible.

 

You have found out, and now takes advantage of "1 club shorter to the flag" when your 4 iron is needed

[tgoodspe1991]

Its most beneficial in the short irons and wedges to prevent crowding but in the mid to long irons there isn't that same benefit. I'm also 6'1' with shorter arms so in theory I'm supposed to be in 1/2' to 3/4". I play my clubs in 3/8" increments so my wedges are roughly 1" long but my 4i is basically "standard length".

 

I strongly advocate 3/8" for both players who fit over length, standard or shorter, there is a 3/8" set up for each need, and we cant make a classic 4/8" set to fit that good on both ends of a set, its not possible.

 

So what would that look like for a +1/2" set from 3-LW?

[Howard_Jones]

Im on travel and only on my mobile, but look up a chart ive posted who uses any standard lenght club from 3-pw as starting point for a 3/8 slope.

 

Simply ask yourself. How long do i want my short clubs to be?

 

We can extend the 3/8" system into wedges or leave them as typical with 2/8", its all up to us, but always be aware of what we do to Sw when we go longer or shorter than std. For each 1/8" up or down, we move sw by 0,75swp and at 3/8" between clubs we seek a progressive slope of 0.5 swp between clubs (poor mans moi match)

 

We cant make it much better than that if we want all clubs to feel and play like they was the same club, only with different lenght and loft

 

We need a club we tune up to it play as we like it, then measure that clubs actual specs and do the math for the other clubs

[Howard_Jones]

Here is a link to the chart for different 3/8" set ups, but there is also lots of other info about 3/8" sets in the tread

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1680558-shortening-my-irons/#entry17861876

[TLT_Dan]

Length and lie are directly related. So as you make clubs more upright - they get shorter - and the ball moves closer to your feet. The goal is to have you in a consistent address position and keep you there for every club.

 

If a club is too short (or simply feels too short to you) - you have 2 options - either lengthen the club - or bend it upright. Both accomplish the same thing - allowing you a more athletic address position.

 

You want to stand athletic with every club - and if the math is wrong you are forced to compensate - something you do not want to do. A consistent - strong - athletic address position will allow you a powerful consistent turn - resulting in a consistent ball flight.

 

Howard is attempting to get you there. You (due to your size and WTF) may find a 6 or 7 iron correct - but as you go down to your wedges you begin to be forced into a crouch position - something you do not want to do. Stay tall and athletic - forcing consistency into your game - but the clubs have to be mathematically correct - to keep you there.

[Mikeski]

I'm 6'1" and play my irons 1" over from sand wedge up to 7 then only 1/2" from 6-4. That's after years of "experimenting" to where I feel comfortable throughout the irons. I naturally have a Craig Stadler hunch (for you younger guys, Kevin's dad) but I'm tall and somewhat skinny not short and stocky.

Playing these lengths plus 2* upright is where I'm most comfortable.

[Chuck905]

I’m 5-3 and play my irons 1/2” extra and 2* upright; my set-up and swing is consistent as the main benefit.

 

I’ve tried hitting “standard length and lie irons” but don’t get enough toe clearance thru impact and gripping at the end of the handle feels odd or causes me to slouch/reach. I like a 1/4” rim of the grip sticking out as well so that I get tackiness, but also ensures I have plenty of c0ck at the top of my back swing.

 

I’m comfortable at address, steep take away and very shallow downswing; I own my swing.

[Valtiel]

Its most beneficial in the short irons and wedges to prevent crowding but in the mid to long irons there isn't that same benefit. I'm also 6'1' with shorter arms so in theory I'm supposed to be in 1/2' to 3/4". I play my clubs in 3/8" increments so my wedges are roughly 1" long but my 4i is basically "standard length".

 

You are spot on, its about the short end, in the long end we are limited by eye to hand coordination, and often in SW matched sets, to high actual resistance for the player. Thats why i

I strongly advocate 3/8" for both players who fit over length, standard or shorter, there is a 3/8" set up for each need, and we cant make a classic 4/8" set to fit that good on both ends of a set, its not possible.

 

You have found out, and now takes advantage of "1 club shorter to the flag" when your 4 iron is needed

 

This is exactly what I have done since first reading the recommendation and I won't be going back. I am 6'3" with a 38" wrist to floor measurement and I love the smaller gaps between clubs, especially when it gets down to the wedges.

 

For me its all about address position posture comfort and this setup is much better in that regard, particularly from 8i down to PW.