Shaft keeps turning in hosel

[Beansy]

Ever have a driver that you couldn’t keep the shaft from turning and creeping out the hosel? I swapped out the shafts on my buddy’s aero burner and it will not stay put. I’ve redone it 3 times and took it in to a club builder and it still did the same thing. The shaft did have a tiny bit of play when I dry fitted the shaft to it.

[Popeye64]

When you drill out the old epoxy out of the shaft tip,, how much is in there? Maybe you are not using enough epoxy. Over the years I have had only two epoxy failures that came back to me, when put back together stayed the second time.

The fact that it did it with someone else trying is kind of baffling. You can use the beaded epoxy to stabilize the shaft if the play is excessive. If I was going to give it a try I would use the beaded epoxy to take up the play and make sure you use enough epoxy to get an inch or so up the shaft tip when its assembled. That's my $.02

[Awainer1]

Uh no. Usually people confuse ferrule creep with the shaft coming out. A shaft will not turn and creep out of a hosel. If there is any play then the shaft needs to be shimmed. But even without that the shaft won’t creep out and probably would just not be straight in the hosel affecting how the club plays.

[jvincent]

Ever have a driver that you couldn't keep the shaft from turning and creeping out the hosel? I swapped out the shafts on my buddy's aero burner and it will not stay put. I've redone it 3 times and took it in to a club builder and it still did the same thing. The shaft did have a tiny bit of play when I dry fitted the shaft to it.

 

A few things to check:

- Have you removed absolutely all of the old epoxy from the hosel?

- Is the tip properly cleaned and prepped?

- Is your epoxy old?

 

Some shafting beads might help with the play.

[Colej]

Make sure the tip is clear (drill out) and even poke a hole through the end of the grip. Just to be sure tape doesn’t have it air locked.

 

Just looked it up. Guide says it’s a .350 so you probably need to make sure you don’t need a shim

 

https://www.golfworks.com/images/art/TaylorMade.pdf

[wkuo3]

That's is some statement .

And the head never flew out of the shaft ?

 

.

[Jagpilotohio]

My guess is with wrong diameter tip, .335 instead of .350, but I can’t believe it just doesn’t fly off if that’s the case.

[nsxguy]

I'm glad someone finally said it.

 

I can't do anything but change my grips but I can't imagine a shaft turning without the head flying off.

 

The epoxy bond is effectively to make the connection a single "piece". How can one part of the epoxy "fail" and allow the shaft to twist and the head still stays on ? If any turning occurs hasn't the entire bond failed ?

[Jagpilotohio]

I'm glad someone finally said it.

 

I can't do anything but change my grips but I can't imagine a shaft turning without the head flying off.

 

The epoxy bond is effectively to make the connection a single "piece". How can one part of the epoxy "fail" and allow the shaft to twist and the head still stays on ? If any turning occurs hasn't the entire bond failed ?

 

Well....I actually have seen it a couple times on Parallel tip shafts. They eventually will fly off, but I have seen the bond fail but still manage to hold them via a really tight friction fit for quite some time. They usually don’t just spin though. They usually start working their way off as they spin.

[nsxguy]

I'm glad someone finally said it.

 

I can't do anything but change my grips but I can't imagine a shaft turning without the head flying off.

 

The epoxy bond is effectively to make the connection a single "piece". How can one part of the epoxy "fail" and allow the shaft to twist and the head still stays on ? If any turning occurs hasn't the entire bond failed ?

 

Well....I actually have seen it a couple times on Parallel tip shafts. They eventually will fly off, but I have seen the bond fail but still manage to hold them via a really tight friction fit for quite some time. They usually don’t just spin though. They usually start working their way off as they spin.

 

Does the bond "fail" when ANY part of it fails ? Or does the whole bond have to fail for it to fail ?

 

I can understand the bond feeling a bit "loose" (or some such) as if, say, 90% of the epoxy is still holding solid and a little is losing its grip but the shaft turning ? Once that happens I'd think the whole bond was compromised and I can't see anything happening but the head coming off on the next swing.

 

Are you suggesting that if the entire bond fails that, due to friction holding it together, the head could actually stay on the shaft through any additional swings ? If so, and the friction can hold that well, then I would think the shaft could actually turn a little bit and still hold, no ? :dntknw:

[jvincent]

I've seen epoxy fail and the head starts to turn.

 

There's still enough friction between the epoxy still bonded to the shaft and the epoxy still bonded to the hosel that the head doesn't fly off and you can't pull it off by hand but it will twist with every hit.

[wkuo3]

I'm glad someone finally said it.

 

I can't do anything but change my grips but I can't imagine a shaft turning without the head flying off.

 

The epoxy bond is effectively to make the connection a single "piece". How can one part of the epoxy "fail" and allow the shaft to twist and the head still stays on ? If any turning occurs hasn't the entire bond failed ?

 

Well....I actually have seen it a couple times on Parallel tip shafts. They eventually will fly off, but I have seen the bond fail but still manage to hold them via a really tight friction fit for quite some time. They usually don’t just spin though. They usually start working their way off as they spin.

 

Does the bond "fail" when ANY part of it fails ? Or does the whole bond have to fail for it to fail ?

 

I can understand the bond feeling a bit "loose" (or some such) as if, say, 90% of the epoxy is still holding solid and a little is losing its grip but the shaft turning ? Once that happens I'd think the whole bond was compromised and I can't see anything happening but the head coming off on the next swing.

 

Are you suggesting that if the entire bond fails that, due to friction holding it together, the head could actually stay on the shaft through any additional swings ? If so, and the friction can hold that well, then I would think the shaft could actually turn a little bit and still hold, no ? :dntknw:

 

Had happened to me several times over the last 20+ years. what happened was the epoxy never cured completely. Even after days of the install the epoxy was still not 100% solid state.

Could be due to the epoxy ( either the epoxy itself or the mixing ration was not quite right. Could also be the combination of the temperature and humidity, or a combination of the above.

 

Anyway, the epoxy seemed to be cured at the time. The head was solid and no issue until hitting the 4th or the 5th tee shot, noticed the head had moved out of alignment. Upon inspection the shaft was barely movable if I twist it with another hand on the grip.

 

What were the chances that the club builder used the same type of epoxy the O.P. used ?

[Beansy]

The shaft only turns on impact and it’s only like an 8th of a turn. My buddy didn’t notice it until I said something to him about his grip being sideways. I’ll try to post some pics when I get it from him. The shaft that was bought was from eBay but it stated it was a .350 tip.

[Beansy]

This is exactly what it’s doing.

 

I've seen epoxy fail and the head starts to turn.

 

There's still enough friction between the epoxy still bonded to the shaft and the epoxy still bonded to the hosel that the head doesn't fly off and you can't pull it off by hand but it will twist with every hit.

[Beansy]

So since the shaft has been prepped a couple of times do you think it would be wise to tip the shaft an inch and start fresh? The shaft was not tipped when installed.

[ChronicSlicer]

Sounds like a bunk epoxy mix, epoxy is pretty strong stuff. I can`t imagine mixing epoxy correctly and letting it cure properly breaking free that easily, even if your shaft was a hair to small for the hosel. But I suppose anything is possible.

[Beansy]

I’m looking to buy another brand, I picked it up from my local golf store.

Sounds like a bunk epoxy mix, epoxy is pretty strong stuff. I can`t imagine mixing epoxy correctly and letting it cure properly breaking free that easily, even if your shaft was a hair to small for the hosel. But I suppose anything is possible.

[jvincent]

This is exactly what it's doing.

 

I've seen epoxy fail and the head starts to turn.

 

There's still enough friction between the epoxy still bonded to the shaft and the epoxy still bonded to the hosel that the head doesn't fly off and you can't pull it off by hand but it will twist with every hit.

 

If it were me and you want to use that shaft I'd give it one more shot. Make sure the hosel is perfectly clean and get some new epoxy and shafting beads and make sure the epoxy is mixed properly, i.e. equal parts AND fully mixed.

 

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is check the leftover epoxy after the club is assembled and dry. If it isn't hard and doesn't snap when you bend it then it hasn't cured properly.

[Pleasedwith3putts]

When I am building clubs I always make up a little more epoxy than I need. That way I can double check that I have a decent cure on the epoxy by checking the small amount I have left over on the board I use for mixing.

 

If I was you I would mix up a small amount of the epoxy you have and let it cure to see how hard it goes off. That will give you the first clue.

 

If the epoxy seems fine then as others have said the key points are really;

 

To make sure it is a fairly tight fit with a dry fit otherwise add a shim

Make sure both the tip and hosel are clean of any previous epoxy, are suitably abraded and then clean with spirits to ensure no grease or other contamination that will stop it going off

Apply epoxy to both the hosel and shaft tip and gently rotate the shaft as you insert it to ensure a good bond between the surfaces

During a dry fit add a pen mark on the shaft where the top of the ferrule should sit when the shaft is fully inserted so you know you have inserted full depth when you have the added pressure generated by adding the epoxy

Make sure you have removed any old epoxy from the bore of the shaft before installation so air can escape up the length of the shaft during curing

Do not install the grip until after it has cured to ensure the pressure has somewhere to escape and no spirits gets down the shaft to undermine the bonding process

[Nessism]

I agree with trying again using some different epoxy. Order from Golfworks or see if you can find some Hardman's epoxy in the bubble packs. That's decent epoxy. Abraid both the shaft and hosel and then clean with isopropyl alcohol. Don't try to clean up using mineral spirits and the like because it will leave an oily residue and could mess up the bond. And stay away from shafting beads because that stuff reduces bond strength.

 

[ChronicSlicer]

I agree with trying again using some different epoxy. Order from Golfworks or see if you can find some Hardman's epoxy in the bubble packs. That's decent epoxy. Abraid both the shaft and hosel and then clean with isopropyl alcohol. Don't try to clean up using mineral spirits and the like because it will leave an oily residue and could mess up the bond. And stay away from shafting beads because that stuff reduces bond strength.

 

 

I use Gorilla Glue( I know it`s not a "golf club makers brand") but it works, I never use the fancy measuring devices only by eye, but I have not had a club head or anything else I`ve used it on fail yet. I usually clean prepped stuff with Acetone.

[Nessism]

No disrespect but I hope you don't sell any clubs assembled with Gorilla glue to other people. That stuff is pretty weak as far as epoxies go and it's long lasting durability, particularly as related to high temperature storage inside a car in summer, is completely unknown.

[Beansy]

Do you get this stuff locally or do you order it?

I agree with trying again using some different epoxy. Order from Golfworks or see if you can find some Hardman's epoxy in the bubble packs. That's decent epoxy. Abraid both the shaft and hosel and then clean with isopropyl alcohol. Don't try to clean up using mineral spirits and the like because it will leave an oily residue and could mess up the bond. And stay away from shafting beads because that stuff reduces bond strength.

 

[denkea]

Ever have a driver that you couldn't keep the shaft from turning and creeping out the hosel? I swapped out the shafts on my buddy's aero burner and it will not stay put. I've redone it 3 times and took it in to a club builder and it still did the same thing. The shaft did have a tiny bit of play when I dry fitted the shaft to it.

 

IF the adapter has been reused several times it is possible that the inside of the adapter, while cleaning out old epoxy, has been polished too smooth.

 

Use an 80 grit plumbers cloth and abrade the inside slowly. If using a drill, run slowly.

 

And as a last resort you can always run a tap in the adapter to create more roughness.

[Socrates]

You guys are all beating around the bush and not figuring out why the shaft is turning in the hosel. From my experience, the only way a shaft does this and doesn't come apart is that the epoxy has only bonded to one surface. Usually the epoxy has bonded to the shaft but not the hosel. There is still enough friction where the shaft only moves a little bit at a time as it is hit. Put it in a shaft puller and add a little heat (sometimes you don't even need heat) and you will easily see this when it has occurred.

 

This fix has nothing to do with the epoxy used but rather the prep. The problem lies with either a contaminated surface or a poorly prepared surface (not removing old epoxy or not getting down to a clean surface for proper bonding). Fix that issue and it doesn't really matter what epoxy is used if it is mixed properly. Although a better epoxy will cover up prep errors as some perform better than others in the presence of contaminates such as oils.

[Pleasedwith3putts]

You guys are all beating around the bush and not figuring out why the shaft is turning in the hosel.

 

Well I covered this off 6 posts ago :taunt:

[Beansy]

I appreciate everyone’s input on the matter, I bought some new epoxy and I’m picking up the driver from him today. I will make sure to triple check my prepped surfaces and to be extra clean. Thanks again guy and gals.

[JRL2]

This happened to me a few months ago. It turned out that I was using old epoxy, and it wasn't bonding correctly. I hit a shot, and it didn't feel right, when I grabbed the driver head, it turned in my hand. The head didn't fly off. I ordered new epoxy, cleaned everything out again, being sure to scuff the inside of the adapter first, then cleaned thoroughly along with the shaft, applied new epoxy and haven't had any issues since. I have only had two failures in 30 years of hobby club tinkering, so this was a valuable lesson on the shelf life of epoxy.

[Beansy]

Yeah I bought some new epoxy since I was getting low and I bought it close to a year ago lol.

 

This happened to me a few months ago. It turned out that I was using old epoxy, and it wasn't bonding correctly. I hit a shot, and it didn't feel right, when I grabbed the driver head, it turned in my hand. The head didn't fly off. I ordered new epoxy, cleaned everything out again, being sure to scuff the inside of the adapter first, then cleaned thoroughly along with the shaft, applied new epoxy and haven't had any issues since. I have only had two failures in 30 years of hobby club tinkering, so this was a valuable lesson on the shelf life of epoxy.