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Cheaper Alternatives for High Quality Metal Stamps


wedgespoke

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Young Bros obviously makes the best stamps that result in Anthony Taranto level quality stamping, but I can't pay $300 for a set of metal stamps (until my friends start paying me to stamp their clubs). I've bought some stamps off Amazon, but they are all poor quality compared to the finished product of a Young Bros stamp.

 

Anyone have good suggestions for high quality stamps that won't break the bank? Also, I've used 1/8 inch stamps, but they seem too tiny? What's the ideal size?

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I've been scouring the internet for a mid level set as well, because my harbor freight ones aren't cutting it. Anyway, I've come across a good company that has expensive sets and also offers a low cost set. Pryor. They have 2 sizes, 1/16" and 1/8" that are cheap on amazon, PP27015 and PP27030, respectfully. Hopefully, as a reputable company, even their low cost options are excellent quality. From my research, 303 stainless is roughly 19-20 HRC and these are rated up to 37 HRC. Why does Rockwell and other hardness scaling have to be so confusing?????

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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What's wrong with Harbor Freight? I've used the same set for 10+ years now with no issues. A couple that I use regularly have some wear and are slightly bent but they still work. It's all in the technique using the pad on the back of the vise & double sided tape to hold the head and hold/mark your spots.

Titleist TSi3 10 w Tensei 1K Black 65

TM 2017 M2 Tour 15 w HC HZRDUS Black 85

Titleist T200 3 w HC HZRDUS Black 105

Titleist T100 4-9 w TI X100

Titleist SM7 47.11 F, 51.13 F; SM8 55.15 F & 60.08 M w TI X100

Byron Morgan 612SS

Titleist ProV1x

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What's wrong with Harbor Freight? I've used the same set for 10+ years now with no issues. A couple that I use regularly have some wear and are slightly bent but they still work. It's all in the technique using the pad on the back of the vise & double sided tape to hold the head and hold/mark your spots.

Some of the letters/figures have a blob of metal in the exact center so my 'S' stamps all exhibit a circular mark in middle of the letter. Also, my 'E' has lost its edge and is rounded to the point it won't seat well. They work, just not professional looking as far a shape and consistent hardness. They are definitely not single blow stamps, unless you're goal is super shallow, barely visible impressions. I really have to work the stamp at multiple angles to get even depth for the more 'detailed' E, M, N, H, R etc. Carbon steel they're fine but stainless is tougher.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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What's wrong with Harbor Freight? I've used the same set for 10+ years now with no issues. A couple that I use regularly have some wear and are slightly bent but they still work. It's all in the technique using the pad on the back of the vise & double sided tape to hold the head and hold/mark your spots.

Some of the letters/figures have a blob of metal in the exact center so my 'S' stamps all exhibit a circular mark in middle of the letter. Also, my 'E' has lost its edge and is rounded to the point it won't seat well. They work, just not professional looking as far a shape and consistent hardness. They are definitely not single blow stamps, unless you're goal is super shallow, barely visible impressions. I really have to work the stamp at multiple angles to get even depth for the more 'detailed' E, M, N, H, R etc. Carbon steel they're fine but stainless is tougher.

 

Gotcha. I have to work the stamp to get the deep, detailed look which can lead to a slight mushroom on softer heads. Never really thought much about it though.

 

Sweet Byron in your profile pic!

Titleist TSi3 10 w Tensei 1K Black 65

TM 2017 M2 Tour 15 w HC HZRDUS Black 85

Titleist T200 3 w HC HZRDUS Black 105

Titleist T100 4-9 w TI X100

Titleist SM7 47.11 F, 51.13 F; SM8 55.15 F & 60.08 M w TI X100

Byron Morgan 612SS

Titleist ProV1x

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  • 3 months later...
Vokey uses Pryor. This is coming from Aaron Dill.

TM SIM Max 11.1* Fujikura Ventus Blue VC 6S
3 Wood Titleist TSR 15* Fujikura Ventus Red VC 7S
5 Wood Titleist TSR 18* Fujikura Ventus Blue VC 8S
7 Wood Callaway BB 2004 21* Pro Launch 75s
4-PW Srixon Zx7 Modus 105s
MG4 54 SB Modus 105w, MG4 60 SBC Modus 105w

Scotty Cameron

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I have, they work well. If you're going really deep for a strong impression I recommend lightly taking a Dremel to the circular edge, making it contour more to the perimeter of the letter, especially for the smaller sets 1/8" & 1/16". Otherwise, if you go too deep the circle base will leave a mark.

 

The Dremel comment is for anyone that's halfway tool-competent and not shaky in the hand.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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I have, they work well. If you're going really deep for a strong impression I recommend lightly taking a Dremel to the circular edge, making it contour more to the perimeter of the letter, especially for the smaller sets 1/8" & 1/16". Otherwise, if you go too deep the circle base will leave a mark.

 

The Dremel comment is for anyone that's halfway tool-competent and not shaky in the hand.

 

 

are you grinding with your dremel or cutting it off? My I has problems with hitting the base

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Grinding it carefully with a Dremel disc or fine sanding bit. Work slow, don't want to heat it too much and mess up the hardness. I usually only grind the stamps I'm using for a session, so I don't sit for an hour trying to do them all at once. Eventually, I'll get to doing them all. You don't need to go crazy, just remove the huge base around the perimeter, especially on simple letters like "I" and "T", where there's a large area of circular base out past the letter. You hit one of these letters at a slight angle and that circle is making a mark. I'll post pictures of the finished ends in a day or so.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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