What are your equipment quirks/preferences?

[ode1]

Fairly heavy clubs all the way around but the driver is a sledgehammer, total weight @ ~ 411g; 220g head, 85g shaft, 105g grip, @43.75". And I'll lead tape the sh1t outta any club, just as long as its not visible at address! And play mostly components, what's with you OEM snobs:)

 

Quirks although I would not call them quirks, when passing random ball marks feel compelled to fix it, I.e. hard time passing by and leaving it be; believe me when I tell ya, this can be problematic at my home course, littered with ball marks! And am I olthe only one who's stomach turns when someone tears up the green when fixing a ball mark? Noooooooo!

 

When teeing off, prefer folks be behind or in front in line with my stance and out of view. In line with target behind the box OK, but stand f,ing still. Cannot stand people with crappy etiquette that talk, move, and are in odd places/in sight when teeing off.

[GooseHook]

 

 

Putters, I can't putt with typical full shaft offset Anser-style putters, I feel like I have no idea where the face is pointing at impact. Give me half shaft at MOST or straight in without offset. I have a similar issue with offset in irons, the less the better.

 

Me too!

 

However, this really just mean's your cross dominant. I'm right hand, left eye. Half shaft is the sweet spot for me but I used to putt really well with center shafted too.

[BIG STU]

Stenson tour wrap cords logo down, lead tape on every club even the putter.

Usually my gamers are 10years old. Many have called them a bag of rentals from a pawn shop. All the new shiny latest and greatest gear sits in my basement for launch monitor golf.

Well they do you better than they do me---- They call my stuff either Goodwill specials or Junkyard refugees which is absolutely entirely true---- One of my buds is exactly like me and some of the guys call us when we are teamed up "The Salvation Army Team"--- My othe buddy the local Miura dealer quipped one day " If you ever go back to playing the Minis you ought to get that scrap yard you work for or Goodwill to sponsor you". Rust and lead tape that is me.

[Ivyguy]

Grooves on the hosel... what?!?

 

My spin rate and launch is improving on my lateral shots.

[Valtiel]

 

 

Putters, I can't putt with typical full shaft offset Anser-style putters, I feel like I have no idea where the face is pointing at impact. Give me half shaft at MOST or straight in without offset. I have a similar issue with offset in irons, the less the better.

 

Me too!

 

However, this really just mean's your cross dominant. I'm right hand, left eye. Half shaft is the sweet spot for me but I used to putt really well with center shafted too.

 

I actually thought the same but after lots of tests it seems I actually have no eye dominance, or if I do it is only very very slightly favoring the right. Same end result though in terms of putter preference.

[cardoustie]

Lately I also seem to have a preference for shaft brand matching in driver, 3w and then 5w

[MixedBag]

Thicker grips on irons

Heavy wedges

 

Absolutely cannot use an alignment aid on my ball when putting. I played in a friendly best ball tournament with a scratch player who basically forced me to use the alignment aid for the first nine and it was terrible. Finally told the guy I was doing it my way for the back and putted lights out.

[zarro84]

for many years I used to install putter grips with the flat side facing the target. Just felt natural in my hands

[WidespreadPanic]

My 4 iron has a standard grip with 6 wraps while all other clubs have 2.

 

57g shaft in driver cut down to play 44.5 with no weight added to head. I like my driver light, to say the least.

[dicko999]

A few-

 

Longer shafts in irons, standard length in hybrids, shorter in the woods

 

Heavier swing weight with irons (D6) and wedges (D8)

 

Grips need to be done right, so I learned to do them myself. I quickly became tired of paying for half assed RE-grips

 

I prefer clashing knit headcovers. Think something you would find in the attic of your grandmother

 

Spare ball always goes in left pocket. Tees, ball marker and divot tool always in right

 

Towel connoisseur. My playing partners call me Linus

[@_the_crook]

no wide alignment mark on the ball. throws me off - especially when I visualize a putting line and the break.

if it goes in the hole, you did it right.

[sailfishchris]

I thin top line. If it's a thick top line ....It's like a big Word not allowed- I just say no!

[Nard_S]

Iron sets that have 28-32 gram static weight differential from #3 to PW. Favorite 2 sets were OEM made this way. 4g nominal step is gold to me.

 

Corded grips w/ 4 wraps stepped down.

 

Light SW driver (OS corded grip ideal), sledgehammer heavy irons.

[596]

I forgot, my other peeve is anything that says "tour", I want nothing to do with.

[tokeyb]

Ball on tee must have brand logo visible and perfectly level to the ground. Must be as symmetrical left-right as possible or else I cannot drive it straight.

 

Putting, must have blank white looking up at me. Any logo or alignment aid totally messes me up.

 

And yet with irons from the fairway, I never even notice logo position! Bizarre.

[BearQ]

I forgot, my other peeve is anything that says "tour", I want nothing to do with.

 

I want everything to do with tour or pro models lol. If it says draw (model) on it, I wont even air swing it though.

[2over]

Quirks? I've got a few...

 

My lie angles are standard (5'11" average length arms, makes sense they'd work for me). I can play just fine with irons 2-4* more upright than my own, and up to an inch longer but if a set is 1* flat and/or the shaft shorter than standard, I'm lost. Can't play those at all.

 

Gotta have the logo down on a plain, black, Tour Velvet Grip or I can't play.

 

Can't play with a dirty club. Every spec of dirt gets whisked out of the grooves after every shot (except on the range) with a half wet/half dry white towel. Green or black towels don't work for me. Have to be white, or grey from wiping down black grips and washing repeatedly. Grips get wiped down every time too because a slick grip is another "can't play" since I rarely use a glove.

 

I can't look at shaft bands or logos on the club at address. They have to come off or be underneath, invisible at address or I can't play.

 

Satin or chrome irons shafts, stepped or stepless are all fine. But I can't play with black iron shafts. On the other hand I can't play well with silver, white, yellow, chrome driver shafts at all. Black is always first choice in a driver/fairway/hybrid shaft. Dark blue is quite acceptable too. The dark green of the old Aldila NV is also fine. But anything bright or busy in a driver shaft (or, God forbid!--2 tone!!!) is absolutely a no-go for me.

 

The golf bag should be black or navy or white with minimal logos. Carry bag only, stand is fine but optional.

 

That's about it.

 

Thanks for listening without judging.

[jplroper]

36" putter, I can put well for a while with a shorter putter but not for long.

Irons have to be Titleist or they are only guests in the bag.

Irons have to be a degree or 2 up right

Can't stand having any markings on the ball showing when I put.

[asw7576]

1. Graphite design shafts

2. Same length for wedges , fairway woods, drivers. 36" , 41" , 45" respectively.

3. Golf Pride Tour Velvet Midsize Grip for all drivers, fairway woods, hybrids .

[Valtiel]

no wide alignment mark on the ball. throws me off - especially when I visualize a putting line and the break.

if it goes in the hole, you did it right.

 

I'm actually coming to realize this may be an issue for me as well. Last time I played I was using a different putting grip, something I had been working on to keep my wrists quieter, and my warm up went REALLY well. Everything was either going in or missing with the proper weight nearby and I was happy. Cut to the course and I can not make a putt to save anyone's life, and the only difference as alignment usage. On the practice green I was feeling everything out with just my eyes and on the course I was using the line on the ball. I think i'm starting to realize that no matter where that line is pointing that its going to look wrong to me when standing over it. I may try having the line perpendicular to the target as something to focus on for face angle instead, or just stop using it altogether.

 

I thin top line. If it's a thick top line ....It's like a big Word not allowed- I just say no!

 

Big asses need love too, man! :D

 

Iron sets that have 28-32 gram static weight differential from #3 to PW. Favorite 2 sets were OEM made this way. 4g nominal step is gold to me.

 

Corded grips w/ 4 wraps stepped down.

 

Light SW driver (OS corded grip ideal), sledgehammer heavy irons.

 

Love it, that is definitely the most specific one i've heard so far. What is it about light driver/heavy irons that is important to you?

 

Ball on tee must have brand logo visible and perfectly level to the ground. Must be as symmetrical left-right as possible or else I cannot drive it straight.

 

Putting, must have blank white looking up at me. Any logo or alignment aid totally messes me up.

 

And yet with irons from the fairway, I never even notice logo position! Bizarre.

 

I feel ya on the putting as I mentioned above, going to try that! Do you move the logo around when it is on the tee when shaping the ball or no?

 

Quirks? I've got a few...

 

My lie angles are standard (5'11" average length arms, makes sense they'd work for me). I can play just fine with irons 2-4* more upright than my own, and up to an inch longer but if a set is 1* flat and/or the shaft shorter than standard, I'm lost. Can't play those at all.

 

Gotta have the logo down on a plain, black, Tour Velvet Grip or I can't play.

 

Can't play with a dirty club. Every spec of dirt gets whisked out of the grooves after every shot (except on the range) with a half wet/half dry white towel. Green or black towels don't work for me. Have to be white, or grey from wiping down black grips and washing repeatedly. Grips get wiped down every time too because a slick grip is another "can't play" since I rarely use a glove.

 

I can't look at shaft bands or logos on the club at address. They have to come off or be underneath, invisible at address or I can't play.

 

Satin or chrome irons shafts, stepped or stepless are all fine. But I can't play with black iron shafts. On the other hand I can't play well with silver, white, yellow, chrome driver shafts at all. Black is always first choice in a driver/fairway/hybrid shaft. Dark blue is quite acceptable too. The dark green of the old Aldila NV is also fine. But anything bright or busy in a driver shaft (or, God forbid!--2 tone!!!) is absolutely a no-go for me.

 

The golf bag should be black or navy or white with minimal logos. Carry bag only, stand is fine but optional.

 

That's about it.

 

Thanks for listening without judging.

 

Thanks for sharing! This is starting to feel like an addicts anonymous meeting. :D

 

Most of those make sense to me, but what is it about towel color that bugs you?

 

I relate most to the shaft color one, I hate shiny shafts in putters which is why I have an old Bullseye in mine. I also like white graphite shafts as my brain thinks it can see the head better because of the contrast. I honestly think this is one of the reasons that Taylormade M series clubs were so popular, outside of the performance.

[BMC]

Thin soled irons and wedges. No additional markings on golf ball. Must see all white when putting.

[weavej1]

Now I see why it takes 5 hours to get around.

[Nard_S]

Love it, that is definitely the most specific one i've heard so far. What is it about light driver/heavy irons that is important to you? -Valtiel

 

On the Driver not so much light but a lighter swing weight via a heavy corded OS grip. Not sure why but by accident found this works really for me when I picked up a R510 TP on ebay that had it. It's D0 and I always liked D2 -D4. My longest pokes is with this setup.

 

In irons, was never too fussy about static mass but found I gravitated to heavy (have a hitter swing, Norman was a hero, lol) and that my favorites had an awful lot of relative heft in the long irons, So I weighed up everything I own and the 2 sets that are "till I die" beloved are specified w/ 4 gram nominal range iron to iron. One is average heavy, the other OMG heavy. This is rare to find in retail sets, most all do 7 grams, but I've come across this in a Tour setup. What this does is makes going from iron to iron much easier and consistent. The #4 swings like the #7 and so on. The down side is getting used to it but after adjustment, it's the only setup I'll ever play with again. There is something to be said for sledge hammer specs, the problem is one demo day or fitting does not highlight the strengths. It's probably why it's so hard to come across these days but 30 years ago it was quite common.

[aceofclubs]

A lot of people saying they need to see all white, no lines or logos while putting.

I used to use that method and liked how you just put the ball down and go, no fussing over the line being perfect. I use multiple lines now, im not really sure it has helped me though.

In general you kind of are making putts or your not.

 

[Valtiel]

Love it, that is definitely the most specific one i've heard so far. What is it about light driver/heavy irons that is important to you? -Valtiel

 

On the Driver not so much light but a lighter swing weight via a heavy corded OS grip. Not sure why but by accident found this works really for me when I picked up a R510 TP on ebay that had it. It's D0 and I always liked D2 -D4. My longest pokes is with this setup.

 

In irons, was never too fussy about static mass but found I gravitated to heavy (have a hitter swing, Norman was a hero, lol) and that my favorites had an awful lot of relative heft in the long irons, So I weighed up everything I own and the 2 sets that are "till I die" beloved are specified w/ 4 gram nominal range iron to iron. One is average heavy, the other OMG heavy. This is rare to find in retail sets, most all do 7 grams, but I've come across this in a Tour setup. What this does is makes going from iron to iron much easier and consistent. The #4 swings like the #7 and so on. The down side is getting used to it but after adjustment, it's the only setup I'll ever play with again. There is something to be said for sledge hammer specs, the problem is one demo day or fitting does not highlight the strengths. It's probably why it's so hard to come across these days but 30 years ago it was quite common.

 

Thanks for the details! I actually found something similar with drivers about 7 years ago when testing, just the reverse. I had an R11 which worked well but I hated how it felt, and being a Titleist guy I picked up an insane deal on a barely used 910D3 with an aftermarket Ahina 80x to replace it. When testing I simply found that the R11 was more consistent in terms of dispersion for me by a pretty noticeable amount. I had been messing with the weights and forgot what was in it, but it turned out the R11 was measuring D8 whereas the 910D3 was D3, appropriately enough. Adding the weight to the Titleist brought it up to the same level of consistency and its been the same for me ever since.

 

Similar thing with irons as well, I do the whole 3/8" gap between clubs with progressive swing weights to get the MOI matching vibe going on where each club just feels the same and its been a huge improvement as well. I don't know that i'd call them sledgehammers but it is D5 in the long irons to D8 in the wedges and I use heavier grips on top of that which "take away" two swing weight points. All that said, i'm definitely not a "hitter" though, but it does fascinate me all the specific things people do to make their sets right for them. :)

[Nard_S]

Love it, that is definitely the most specific one i've heard so far. What is it about light driver/heavy irons that is important to you? -Valtiel

 

On the Driver not so much light but a lighter swing weight via a heavy corded OS grip. Not sure why but by accident found this works really for me when I picked up a R510 TP on ebay that had it. It's D0 and I always liked D2 -D4. My longest pokes is with this setup.

 

In irons, was never too fussy about static mass but found I gravitated to heavy (have a hitter swing, Norman was a hero, lol) and that my favorites had an awful lot of relative heft in the long irons, So I weighed up everything I own and the 2 sets that are "till I die" beloved are specified w/ 4 gram nominal range iron to iron. One is average heavy, the other OMG heavy. This is rare to find in retail sets, most all do 7 grams, but I've come across this in a Tour setup. What this does is makes going from iron to iron much easier and consistent. The #4 swings like the #7 and so on. The down side is getting used to it but after adjustment, it's the only setup I'll ever play with again. There is something to be said for sledge hammer specs, the problem is one demo day or fitting does not highlight the strengths. It's probably why it's so hard to come across these days but 30 years ago it was quite common.

 

Thanks for the details! I actually found something similar with drivers about 7 years ago when testing, just the reverse. I had an R11 which worked well but I hated how it felt, and being a Titleist guy I picked up an insane deal on a barely used 910D3 with an aftermarket Ahina 80x to replace it. When testing I simply found that the R11 was more consistent in terms of dispersion for me by a pretty noticeable amount. I had been messing with the weights and forgot what was in it, but it turned out the R11 was measuring D8 whereas the 910D3 was D3, appropriately enough. Adding the weight to the Titleist brought it up to the same level of consistency and its been the same for me ever since.

 

Similar thing with irons as well, I do the whole 3/8" gap between clubs with progressive swing weights to get the MOI matching vibe going on where each club just feels the same and its been a huge improvement as well. I don't know that i'd call them sledgehammers but it is D5 in the long irons to D8 in the wedges and I use heavier grips on top of that which "take away" two swing weight points. All that said, i'm definitely not a "hitter" though, but it does fascinate me all the specific things people do to make their sets right for them. :)

 

I'm been intrigued with MOI matching and 3/8" gaps and may try a build that way. I have set preferences on head designs but am more fascinated on how weighting specs & profiles (kick points) noodle swing results. It's fertile territory & leave it open to where it may go. Good stuff.

[shakey]

Hmmm...

 

Grips needs to be logo down

 

If I carry a 3 and 5 wood...they have to match...same brand same model same shaft same grip

 

Wedges are the same...52 and 58 must match.

 

Only like to use Pride 2 3/4 wood tees that are white with the yellow stripe.

[BrianMcG]

I have stiff shafts in my irons, but regular in my woods.

 

All my woods have to match and wedges also. But my woods, irons and wedges can all be different brands.

[ago33]

Irons +3/4 irons, +7 grams in the head, AMT x100 because the 4,5 get heavy

 

Woods- std length but 6 extra grams in driver, 8 in 3 wood

 

Grips- oversized leather

[golfinrig24]

driver 45"

ribbed grips

one brand of ball in my shag bag for short game practise current ball I play