Jump to content
2024 Houston Open WITB Photos ×

Grip Solvent Preventing Epoxy From Fully Curing?


halliedog

Recommended Posts

Had a re-shaft fail and am trying to pinpoint the cause. Hoping for insight from the club building gurus.

 

Details: was trying to epoxy a C Taper parallel tip shaft onto an Odyssey O Works 7S. This was a shaft over post type install. After removing the original shaft I cleaned and sanded the post and cleaned with an acetone wipe-down. Next I tip trimmed the C Taper to desired playing length and took some rolled up sandpaper and "prepped" the inside on the shaft tip and did my best to clean with a rolled up paper towel soaked in acetone.

 

I have both "quick set" and "max strength" epoxy, and decided the "quick set" would be good enough for a putter, so mixed that up and let sit about 8-10 minutes to gel. I then applied a liberal amount of it to the post (my mixing stick was too large to fit inside of shaft tip). I then pushed shaft down over post, twisting slightly to ensure full coating around inside of shaft, cleaned up excess epoxy and set next to my fireplace for 2 hours to set.

 

After 2 hours it seemed perfectly secure, so I next went to apply the grip as normal, except this was my first time using a Super Stroke Counterbalance grip. Since the Counterbalance goes down into the butt end of shaft I didn't apply the grip tape over the end as normal, so some solvent probably went down inside of shaft. I didn't think of this as a big deal since epoxy had already set and it was what I though a minimal amount that might leak down inside there while pushing the grip on. After grip had a chance to set up for an hour or so I took the putter to the practice green and putted with it for a few hours with no issues.

 

Fast forward, when I finished putting I threw the putter in the backseat and left it there overnight. We had below freezing temps overnight. I played the next morning, so I grabbed the putter out the backseat and put it in the bag. When we got to the first green I pulled the putter and when I went to line up my first putt noticed the grip seemed "off". Upon further inspection I found that the epoxy bond had broken loose and the head was freely spinning around the shaft.

 

What say you experts? I think prep job was good. Epoxy is less than 6 months old and stored at room temp, and I've used it previously so know it's not a "bad batch". If it was a bad "mix", why was the head fine after 2 hours but then failed overnight? When I got home and pulled the shaft off the post I noticed an oily feeling residue on the post, which I believe to be the grip solvent that got down the inside of the shaft. This leads me to believe that either the solvent (Bramptons) caused some issue with the epoxy fully curing, or there was enough between the shaft/post that when it was left in the car in freezing temps it somehow froze and broke the epoxy bond between the post and shaft, or a combination of both?

 

**edit** Also, I did check the leftover epoxy on my mixing board and it seems to have cured perfectly.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I won’t consider myself an expert by any stretch of the imagination. It does concern me you letting the epoxy gel prior to application. My understanding is it’s beginning to set which could be a problem. Always try to use my quickset before it starts getting thick or gelling.

Titleist TSR3 10° Tour AD UB 6s // TS2 15° Tour AD UB 7s // 913F 19º w/ Kai'li 70s

Nike VR ProCombo (2011) 3-P w/ DG S200

Nike VR 54.12º & 58.06º w/ DG S200 

SC 2014 Select Newport 

ProV1 '23
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, this is the way I've always used it and never had any issues prior, but not saying it's correct. I'm still thinking the solvent getting down the shaft and the cold temp had to have something to do with it. If the wait time I used before applying the epoxy was culprit I don't think it would've been fine for the 2 hours I putted with it the prior evening.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I reading correctly? You're sanding the INSIDE of the shaft? That's not what you're supposed to do.

 

What am I supposed to do when the shaft fits over the post? I sanded and cleaned both the post and inside of shaft where epoxy was set. Maybe I wasn't clear in first post that this is a putter with a slant neck with .370 post that the shaft fits over?

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MJGUZILK is absolutely right. By letting the epoxy gel and then applying, you are essentially destroying the epoxy. Once epoxy has started to gel, you should stop using it. Likely by the time you got it on the shaft and post, it was pretty thick and you wouldn't get good coverage as well as disturbing the molecular chains that are responsible for the epoxies strength. Up until this point you have gotten lucky that nothing else has come apart and in fact I would be suspect of anything you've put together using this strategy.

 

Adding the solvent was likely just enough to push it past the tipping point as it leaked into the epoxy voids the almost assuredly were there because of the poor contact.

  • Like 1

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I reading correctly? You're sanding the INSIDE of the shaft? That's not what you're supposed to do.

Clearly, you don't understand what is going on here.

 

"parallel tip shaft onto an Odyssey O Works 7S. This was a shaft over post type install."

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MJGUZILK is absolutely right. By letting the epoxy gel and then applying, you are essentially destroying the epoxy. Once epoxy has started to gel, you should stop using it. Likely by the time you got it on the shaft and post, it was pretty thick and you wouldn't get good coverage as well as disturbing the molecular chains that are responsible for the epoxies strength. Up until this point you have gotten lucky that nothing else has come apart and in fact I would be suspect of anything you've put together using this strategy.

 

Adding the solvent was likely just enough to push it past the tipping point as it leaked into the epoxy voids the almost assuredly were there because of the poor contact.

 

That makes sense. I just re-epoxied about an hour ago, using the same method (letting it "gel" for 5-6 minutes) and am about to go back to the workshop and check progress. This time since the grip was already in place there will be no solvent involved. I thought I had read somewhere that after mixing epoxy you were supposed to give it some time to begin setting up, or "activating", but perhaps I misunderstood. Good to know going forward. Also, I don't normally use the quick set stuff for anything other than putter and an occasional wedge.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well that was an even bigger fail than the first time! After about 75 minutes the quick set hadn't even really begun to set. I pulled, and cleaned everything up, and started again, this time with the longer curing max strength epoxy I have. I'll let cure overnight and see how that goes. I have it sitting next to a heat source to hopefully help things along.

 

One thing I'm noticing, like Socrates pointed out I didn't have great coverage on this last attempt. The shaft fits over the post very tightly and I'm guessing rubs off a lot of the epoxy causing it to squeeze up the shaft or out of the open end. There's quit a bit coming out the joint where the end of the shaft slides down over the post so not sure how much is remaining in contact with the areas I'm trying to bond. The post does have a flat side on it, I'm guessing that's to allow enough epoxy to remain to form a good enough bond? I mean it is only a putter, so shouldn't need the strength of an iron or wood that will be swung at full speed.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure where you got the "time to setup or activate" but once you mix epoxy, you need to apply it immediately. With the quickset stuff, you've got enough time to mix it properly and about 3-5 minutes of "pot life" (that is the correct term) to work with it. For most people that is 1-3 clubs and then you're done with it. Once you've epoxied the surfaces together, you should NOT disturb them until they have cured to "handling strength."

 

Most epoxy instructions will tell you what the pot life, the handling strength and the full cure times are. 24hr epoxy is generally 30-45 minutes pot life, 4 hrs handling strength and 24 hrs to full cure. Quick Set epoxy is usually 3 min, 15 minutes and 1 hr+ to full cure.

 

Epoxy doesn't need to be more than a few thousands of an inch thick to give you a strong bond as long as the surfaces are well mated. The one good property of epoxy is that it will fill gaps and still maintain a very good strength. It also does not do well if you apply clamping pressure, so you almost never see that advocated with its use.

 

If a fit is too tight, you also may not get enough coverage and it also can result in poor strength or none at all. So make sure you have a enough room between the two surfaces to allow for the epoxy to remain.

 

And with any bonding, it's all in the prep. Clean surfaces and a proper mix are vital to success.

  • Like 1

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure where you got the "time to setup or activate" but once you mix epoxy, you need to apply it immediately. With the quickset stuff, you've got enough time to mix it properly and about 3-5 minutes of "pot life" (that is the correct term) to work with it. For most people that is 1-3 clubs and then you're done with it. Once you've epoxied the surfaces together, you should NOT disturb them until they have cured to "handling strength."

 

Most epoxy instructions will tell you what the pot life, the handling strength and the full cure times are. 24hr epoxy is generally 30-45 minutes pot life, 4 hrs handling strength and 24 hrs to full cure. Quick Set epoxy is usually 3 min, 15 minutes and 1 hr+ to full cure.

 

Epoxy doesn't need to be more than a few thousands of an inch thick to give you a strong bond as long as the surfaces are well mated. The one good property of epoxy is that it will fill gaps and still maintain a very good strength. It also does not do well if you apply clamping pressure, so you almost never see that advocated with its use.

 

If a fit is too tight, you also may not get enough coverage and it also can result in poor strength or none at all. So make sure you have a enough room between the two surfaces to allow for the epoxy to remain.

 

And with any bonding, it's all in the prep. Clean surfaces and a proper mix are vital to success.

 

I'm beginning to be concerned about the tightness of the shaft over the post honestly. Not sure what to do if this attempt ends poorly. I guess I could try taking the post to my belt sander and attempt to take the diameter down a little so it's not such a tight squeeze going into the shaft? Like I mentioned it does have a flat spot down one side of the post, so I suppose I could add another flat spot on the opposing side to create some extra surface area for the epoxy to "settle in".

 

I think if this attempt doesn't get the job done I may try reinstalling the original shaft and see if it bonds properly. If that works then I could remove the grip, add an extension and go from there. Likely won't be playing for a while so have some time to figure this out!

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you 100% sure you are mixing the epoxy with correct about of A+B? Also realize you are trying to use an iron shaft for an over the hosel putter. Most flare tip shafts are bigger than .370 to accommodate the post. You may need to grind down the post a bit to allow for more epoxy coverage.

 

I'm 99% sure the epoxy mix is correct. I've built numerous sets of irons and quite a few drivers, so not my "first rodeo" :) ! I'm not an expert or professional by any means, but can only remember having one issue with a head coming loose in the past and that was from neglecting to prep the outside of a Ping Tisi Tec plastic adapter before inserting into the head.

 

I don't believe this head/hosel post require a flare tip shaft from doing some research, but the fit is quite tight. If things aren't better on this attempt I'll probably check the fit vs. the original shaft, and possibly try sanding down another flat side on the post so less epoxy will squeeze out. Thanks for the insight!

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I had read somewhere that after mixing epoxy you were supposed to give it some time to begin setting up, or "activating", but perhaps I misunderstood.

 

In 20+yrs of club making and using perhaps a dozen different epoxies I have never heard or read that. Ever. With the quick set you are essentially allowing it to cure before you assemble the parts.

Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't read the entirety of everything here, but apply the epoxy to the inside of the shaft, liberally, NOT just the post. It's likely the shaft is scraping the majority of the epoxy off the post. Also, make sure the inside of the shaft is open near the tip(not plugged), so no air gets trapped. Before applying the epoxy, wipe the post and inside the shaft well with acetone to obtain a clean adhesion. This should work 99% of the time unless surface oils/dirt are present or the surface is ill-prepped . If the post is perfectly cylindrical and the fit is tighter than hell, grind the end down a little to make it more cone-like(just a little).

 

Also, there should be no waiting period whatsoever in applying your epoxy, the sooner the better, and leave the joint still once mated together until fully cured.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I had read somewhere that after mixing epoxy you were supposed to give it some time to begin setting up, or "activating", but perhaps I misunderstood.

 

In 20+yrs of club making and using perhaps a dozen different epoxies I have never heard or read that. Ever. With the quick set you are essentially allowing it to cure before you assemble the parts.

 

Not sure this is the only place I've heard it, but here is a link, check post # 11:

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/38922-golfsmith-epoxy-cure-time/

 

Now you can't say you never heard or read that - Never! :)

 

If it is cured before I assembled the parts, why did it hold up well for my 2 hour practice session (being taken in/out of headcover, gently tossed to ground on occasion when I wanted to pick up a wedge and chip several balls, etc...) and then fail somewhere between the car and first green the next day is what I was really trying to figure out? I'm still thinking the solvent being introduced before a full cure and the freezing temps had a the largest impact. And since there likely wasn't enough surface coverage to stand up to this was probably not helping.

 

And I'm not trying to start an argument, just stating what I've always done and has worked out fine until now. (I've been building clubs for over 30 years myself, although never professionally, but only had one issue that I can recall and that was some prepping I neglected to do. Again, I hardly ever use this particular epoxy, so experience is limited). Since Socrates mentioned pot life of 24 hour epoxy is much longer, I have to believe I've been luck up to this point by letting it "gel" for 6-10 minutes. Won't be doing that any more!

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't read the entirety of everything here, but apply the epoxy to the inside of the shaft, liberally, NOT just the post. It's likely the shaft is scraping the majority of the epoxy off the post. Also, make sure the inside of the shaft is open near the tip(not plugged), so no air gets trapped. Before applying the epoxy, wipe the post and inside the shaft well with acetone to obtain a clean adhesion. This should work 99% of the time unless surface oils/dirt are present or the surface is ill-prepped . If the post is perfectly cylindrical and the fit is tighter than hell, grind the end down a little to make it more cone-like(just a little).

 

Thanks for the reply Princey. I've redone with 24hr epoxy, and this time did my best to get some down into the inside of shaft. Shaft tip is definitely not plugged - was a brand new shaft on initial install and prepped/cleaned with acetone both subsequent attempts. If this attempt doesn't work I'll be grinding/sanding another flat spot down the post to allow better fit and a bigger surface area for epoxy to adhere to.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What was the temperature in the room???

Taylormade QI10LS 10.5 (@9.5) Fujikura Ventus Velocore Blue 6S (Testing Velocore + 6S)
Taylormade Stealth 2+ 15 (@14.50) Fujikura Motore Speeder 8.1S Tipped .5"
Callaway Apex "21" 19/3H Aldila Rogue Black TS95 Tipped .5"
Taylormade SLDR 4i DGSLS300S
Taylormade P750 7-PW P770 5i-6i DG AMT White S300
Taylormade MG2 52 DGTIS400, MG4TW 56/12 DGTIS400, & Tour Issued MG3 Hi Toe 60/09 DGTIS200 115
Scotty Cameron TeI3 Long Neck Newport 2 34" (34")
Bridgestone Tour B XS (Testing New TP5x)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below 50F is getting out of the recommended zone, so anything around "freezing" 32F is a no-no.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Again, as also stated by others, quick set epoxy is just that, fast setting. I’ve used it only on small jobs. From memory, epoxy is an exothermic reaction and expands when curing. If you only used 24 hour epoxy before, the gel time is much longer and attributes your past successes. Surface to surface contact with a properly abraded and clean surface is all that is needed. Acetone as a cleaner works great. Too much play in a connection and use glass beads or improvise with fine clean sand with the epoxy mix. Good luck.

Titleist TSR3 10° Tour AD UB 6s // TS2 15° Tour AD UB 7s // 913F 19º w/ Kai'li 70s

Nike VR ProCombo (2011) 3-P w/ DG S200

Nike VR 54.12º & 58.06º w/ DG S200 

SC 2014 Select Newport 

ProV1 '23
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update - after using the longer cure epoxy and letting sit in front of the fireplace for about 5 hours it appears I have reached safe handling condition. I can now pick it without the head twisting about the shaft :). I won't get a chance to play all week so it will have at least another 6 days to fully cure before it gets put back in the bag.

 

To answer a few of the earlier comments/questions:

 

Temperature in the room was around 68*F. All 3 tries were put on the hearth of my gas fireplace to set up, so temp slightly higher. The 32*F was in my car overnight after I had thought the epoxy was already well set.

 

Jag - I did in fact use a tubing cutter, and am sure that compressed the shaft a bit which led to the super tight fit and so much excess epoxy squeezing out and the poor coverage mentioned by Socrates. I've always cut steel shafts in this manner, but have never done an over the post install of a freshly trimmed shaft before so I guess I never noticed this compression since the entire shaft was going into an iron hosel.

 

I'm still thinking the solvent on initial attempt played a major role in the failure, just not sure why it took so long to fail, but it appears to be resolved now, so moving forward. Thanks to everyone for your comments/suggestions! Learned several new tidbits during this experience I can use moving forward.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah. You understood what I was getting at. A Plumbing cutter will compress that tip and make it way tighter than it should be. Pushes all the epoxy off the stem as you try to insert it.

 

You could have countered that by using a belt sander and taking off about an 1/8 of inch of the compressed area.

 

If you dont have a belt sander you could have wrapped and taped 80 grit around a small drill bit and sanded the heck out of the inside of the shaft to widen it up a bit.

 

Hopefully the new epoxy will work but if not, adjust that tip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of acetone

2 hours to dry

Freeezing overnight.

Winter cold mean didnt cure plus acetone to me means no bonding took place either on shaft base to putter head.

Im slow... 24hrs minimum 48 in winter

Plus stressing the bond by putting grip on way too soon.

2020 18 July mid winterNZ
Ping Rapture 2006 10.5
Nike VrS 3wood
Callaway Razr Edge5 wood

MP100=33 9876 5/mp63
54     RTX2
60     RTX2
ProPlatinum NewportTwo
2002 325gram +8.NewGrip
Dont hesitate to buy one!






 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah. You understood what I was getting at. A Plumbing cutter will compress that tip and make it way tighter than it should be. Pushes all the epoxy off the stem as you try to insert it.

 

You could have countered that by using a belt sander and taking off about an 1/8 of inch of the compressed area.

 

If you dont have a belt sander you could have wrapped and taped 80 grit around a small drill bit and sanded the heck out of the inside of the shaft to widen it up a bit.

 

Hopefully the new epoxy will work but if not, adjust that tip.

 

This.

 

Just rolling up sandpaper and hand twisting would not prep super efficiently imo, hard to get the pressure necessary to remove all the chrome. My bet is reprepping it each time op failed helped fully get the chrome, and now it's setting properly.

 

Like jag suggesting, Sandpaper on a drill is how I prep these types builds. Works well.

Radspeed 8, 13.5, 17.5/hzrdusgreentx                                                           Radspeed 21/tz4100m5+
Utility one length 3,4 iron/mmt105tx
                                                              Forged one length 6-9/x100 wedge onyx

vokey 46*8, 54*8, 62*8/s400 wedge onyx                                                    phantom x5/stabilitytour

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah. You understood what I was getting at. A Plumbing cutter will compress that tip and make it way tighter than it should be. Pushes all the epoxy off the stem as you try to insert it.

 

You could have countered that by using a belt sander and taking off about an 1/8 of inch of the compressed area.

 

If you dont have a belt sander you could have wrapped and taped 80 grit around a small drill bit and sanded the heck out of the inside of the shaft to widen it up a bit.

 

Hopefully the new epoxy will work but if not, adjust that tip.

 

This.

 

Just rolling up sandpaper and hand twisting would not prep super efficiently imo, hard to get the pressure necessary to remove all the chrome. My bet is reprepping it each time op failed helped fully get the chrome, and now it's setting properly.

 

Like jag suggesting, Sandpaper on a drill is how I prep these types builds. Works well.

 

He was cleaning the inside of the shaft for a shaft over hosel post install on a putter. I have not seen shafts with the interior chromed.

Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah. You understood what I was getting at. A Plumbing cutter will compress that tip and make it way tighter than it should be. Pushes all the epoxy off the stem as you try to insert it.

 

You could have countered that by using a belt sander and taking off about an 1/8 of inch of the compressed area.

 

If you dont have a belt sander you could have wrapped and taped 80 grit around a small drill bit and sanded the heck out of the inside of the shaft to widen it up a bit.

 

Hopefully the new epoxy will work but if not, adjust that tip.

 

This.

 

Just rolling up sandpaper and hand twisting would not prep super efficiently imo, hard to get the pressure necessary to remove all the chrome. My bet is reprepping it each time op failed helped fully get the chrome, and now it's setting properly.

 

Like jag suggesting, Sandpaper on a drill is how I prep these types builds. Works well.

 

He was cleaning the inside of the shaft for a shaft over hosel post install on a putter. I have not seen shafts with the interior chromed.

Fair enough, I'm spreading misinformation about the chrome. Apologies. My local repair guy told me to do this on similar putter builds however, guess the ideal is its not properly prepped on the inside. Out of my depth obviously so I'll leave it at that

Radspeed 8, 13.5, 17.5/hzrdusgreentx                                                           Radspeed 21/tz4100m5+
Utility one length 3,4 iron/mmt105tx
                                                              Forged one length 6-9/x100 wedge onyx

vokey 46*8, 54*8, 62*8/s400 wedge onyx                                                    phantom x5/stabilitytour

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys had covered almost every possibilities for the scenario.

I just like to remind you that if not using the 100% pure acetone, some of the nail polish acetone has additives in it for the obvious reason , to prevent damaging the nail. The additives do not evaporate. Always make sure all surface are clean and free of moisture before applying epoxy.

 

In your case, it's the failure of the epoxy caused the issue. It will also take much longer time to cure the epoxy in lower temperature.

Always , always keep the left over epoxy to inspect the curing process. Keep in mind the exposed left over epoxy will cure faster than the epoxy inside the cover of the hosel.

 

Oh, it's a good practice, never put on the grip before the epoxy is fully cured. Either using grip solvent or air to install the grips. And didn't you overlap the grip tape to cover the opening of the end of the shaft when using solvent ? That practice was done to prevent solvent dripping down the inside of the shaft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Our picks

    • 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Discussion and links to Photos
      Please put any questions or Comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Monday #1
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Monday #2
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Tuesday #1
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Tuesday #2
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Tuesday #3
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Thorbjorn Olesen - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Ben Silverman - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jesse Droemer - SoTX PGA Section POY - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      David Lipsky - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Martin Trainer - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Zac Blair - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jacob Bridgeman - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Trace Crowe - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jimmy Walker - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Daniel Berger - WITB(very mini) - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Chesson Hadley - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Callum McNeill - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Rhein Gibson - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Patrick Fishburn - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Peter Malnati - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Raul Pereda - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Gary Woodland WITB (New driver, iron shafts) – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Padraig Harrington WITB – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Tom Hoge's custom Cameron - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Piretti putters - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Ping putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Kevin Dougherty's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Bettinardi putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Erik Barnes testing an all-black Axis1 putter – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Tony Finau's new driver shaft – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
       
      • 7 replies
    • 2024 Valspar Championship WITB Photos (Thanks to bvmagic)- Discussion & Links to Photos
      This weeks WITB Pics are from member bvmagic (Brian). Brian's first event for WRX was in 2008 at Bayhill while in college. Thanks so much bv.
       
      Please put your comments or question on this thread. Links to all the threads are below...
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 31 replies
    • 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #3
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Matt (LFG) Every - WITB - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Sahith Theegala - WITB - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Cameron putters (and new "LD" grip) - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Bettinardi MB & CB irons - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Bettinardi API putter cover - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Swag API covers - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Golf Pride Reverse Taper grips - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 15 replies
    • 2024 Cognizant Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #1
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #2
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #3
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #4
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Brandt Snedeker - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Max Greyserman - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Eric Cole - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Carl Yuan - WITb - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Russell Henley - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Justin Sun - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alex Noren - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Shane Lowry - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Taylor Montgomery - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jake Knapp (KnappTime_ltd) - WITB - - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Super Stoke Pistol Lock 1.0 & 2.0 grips - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      LA Golf new insert putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Garsen Quad Tour 15 grip - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Swag covers - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jacob Bridgeman's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Ryo Hisatsune's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Chris Kirk - new black Callaway Apex CB irons and a few Odyssey putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alejandro Tosti's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
      • 2 replies
    • 2024 Genesis Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #3
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Rory McIlroy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Sepp Straka - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Patrick Rodgers - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Brendon Todd - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Denny McCarthy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Corey Conners - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Chase Johnson - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tommy Fleetwood - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Matt Fitzpatrick - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Si Woo Kim - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Viktor Hovland - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Wyndham Clark - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Cam Davis - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Nick Taylor - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Ben Baller WITB update (New putter, driver, hybrid and shafts) – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Vortex Golf rangefinder - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Fujikura Ventus shaft - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods & TaylorMade "Sun Day Red" apparel launch event, product photos – 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods Sun Day Red golf shoes - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Aretera shafts - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Toulon putters - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods' new white "Sun Day Red" golf shoe prototypes – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      • 22 replies

×
×
  • Create New...