Persimmon refinishing, spraying Poly

[deejaid]

Dave Woods wonderful step by step instructions for refinishing persimmon woods is really the gold standard of persimmon wood refinishing available on the Internet today. Dave’s finishes are on another level in terms of quality and one thing I’ve noticed is he doesn’t mention dipping the club in polyurethane at all. All his instructions say to spray polyurethane for the final finish using spray cans.

 

Now, I’ve finally got my compressor and hvlp spray gun set up for spraying and I’m wondering how many of you guys have sprayed water based polyurethane through and hvlp for club refinishing. It seems to me a water based polyurethane made for sealing hardwood floors would be ideal for sealing persimmon woods, allowing for multiple thin coats that look much better than the thick finishes poly dipped woods have.

 

Anyone go this route? What were your experiences?

[mocokid]

Spray can poly with fan nozzle Dave recommends, minwax brand. Excellent coverage 5 coats or so , start light, fan nozzle is dumby proof.

[deejaid]

But at $8-$9 a can it can get pricey. What’s great is Dave’s instructions call for equipment most home DIY’ers have easy access to. But I build guitars as well, so after years of buying Nitrocellulose lacquer in spray cans at $15 a pop, I finally bought a quality compressor and an hvlp gun to spray guitar bodies and necks. Much more economical. At $40 a gallon for water based hardwood floor polyurethane, I could restore 5x the number of clubs for less $$$ than spray cans.

[Richard 77]

But at $8-$9 a can it can get pricey. What’s great is Dave’s instructions call for equipment most home DIY’ers have easy access to. But I build guitars as well, so after years of buying Nitrocellulose lacquer in spray cans at $15 a pop, I finally bought a quality compressor and an hvlp gun to spray guitar bodies and necks. Much more economical. At $40 a gallon for water based hardwood floor polyurethane, I could restore 5x the number of clubs for less $$$ than spray cans.

back in the dark ages a lot of clubs wer dipped. I never did dip a clun. I w brush on the urethane with a good brush. I would the hold the club up to a light bulb and just rotate until bubbles were gone. I would stand it up or hang I bY the handle so the head touches nothing till dry. I am goin to refinish a Kenneth Smith vertical persimmon.im going sandbthe finish off gently and oil finish it. And then buff it really good.

[raggal62]

30 years ago I tried dipping water based poly. It certainly left a thinner coat than oil based.

[augustgolf]

I've always dipped, and had my finishes held to professional standards of measurements (another story for another thread)

 

So - why balk at 5 coats of spray??? If the proper finish is what you seek, two ways to go:

[robert horneman]

Years ago I always dipped. I got Poly from Golfworks and it came in a wide mouth can.That is no longer available. Now I spray. So much easier and a lot less waste.You were lucky to get 1/2 Quart.

[Bella Woods]

Years ago I always dipped. I got Poly from Golfworks and it came in a wide mouth can.That is no longer available. Now I spray. So much easier and a lot less waste.You were lucky to get 1/2 Quart.

 

Robert - me too.

 

Always dipped with Golfworks Oil Modified Poly as well. The finish would yellow over time, but if not a white insert

or decals/stampings I liked that look. Especially on Mac 693's. Now i spray everything too.

 

Believe it or not, my last can of the Golfworks Oil Modified Poly lasted up until about 5 years ago. I had put what I

had left in an old glass (large one) spaghetti sauce container and it lasted forever......... I probably bought it around

the year 2001...... Always keep it out of daylight and in room temp and closed up asap after dipping.

[SteveNZ]

Robert, Bella, do you guys use water or oil based poly spray? Seems only oil based is available here in NZ.

[Bella Woods]

Robert, Bella, do you guys use water or oil based poly spray? Seems only oil based is available here in NZ.

 

Oil based - I have always preferred it over water based, personal preference I guess....

[JoePete]

Over the years, I've tried a range of methods, including dipping. I think the key isn't the method but the preparation and between coats work. Also, a buffing wheel at the end can help take out some imperfections and get a good shine. Buffing, on its own, takes some trial and error. Your goal should be essentially to put a layer or two "extra" of poly on so that when you do any sanding buffing at the end, you end up where you want. One thing that I don't see much of anymore is filler. Years ago, Golfworks would sell filler (a thin paste) that matched the stain. Its purpose was to plug the porous nature of persimmon and give a nice smooth base.

[Tommix]

I downloaded the Dave Woods instructions and have just finished my two honmas using an aerosol spay oil based poly. ( Cabot’s marine grade clear pack). The can says only three light coats needed compared to five recommended by other brands. I’m pretty happy with results except the painted aluminium face inserts . They look too glossy.

Is there a trick to doing these?

[dcopp7]

Knock down the gloss with 000 steel wool

[Tommix]

Many thanks

[Stacyroadgolf]

Anybody know where I can get a copy of Dave Woods restoration instructions?

 

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

9 hours ago, Stacyroadgolf said:

Anybody know where I can get a copy of Dave Woods restoration instructions?

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20220331081328/http://www.davewoodarts.com/WoodRestoreProcess.html

 

Happy New Year!

[Stacyroadgolf]

Thanks so much!  Happy New Year!