Stuck Iron Head - Dry Fit

[MysteryV]

Guys,

 

I feel a bit dumb posting this, but I was dry fitting a heads onto a shaft and the thing is as stuck as stuck gets. I've worn out my hands trying to twist it off. I've put it in a vise and twisted / pulled. I've given it a few raps with a soft mallet. I've stuck an alignment stick down the shaft and given it a few raps. I've heated it with a torch.

 

Nothing seems to work.

 

Any ideas here? Unfortunately it's a brand new black Miura head, and Oban CT-115 shaft, so I'm hoping not to damage anything.

 

:/

 

HELP!!!

[Clafoone]

done the same thing...used a shaft puller.

 

Randy

[Matt J]

Shaft puller. Or if you have a big enough freezer, or leave it outside if it's cold, then torch the head.

[MysteryV]

Guess I'll take it into Golf Mart tomorrow and see if they might help.

 

Since I'm lucky enough to have such helpful folks - maybe you can help me with the question that got me into this prediciment. For some reason, after reaming the heads (Miura come very tight) with a .355 reamer (from Golfworks - by hand) - I seem to get differing depths of insertion. 4 of the 7 will go about 1.15" in, while the P, 8, 7, bottom out around 0.95 inches.

 

This really bothers me, but I'm not sure if it should, nor am I sure what to do about it.

 

Any advice is appreciated.

[Socrates]

Steel (not fibreglass) rod down the shaft and pound the head off. It should pop off relatively easily unless you pounded it on. Then you just need to hit it harder than you pounded it on to get the head off.

 

You are not reaming to the bottom of the hosel. There is no question about that in my mind. Take a small object (I have a thin rod on my bench) and measure to the bottom of the hosel. If it doesn't agree with the inserted depth, you need to ream it better.

[Matt J]

Steel (not fibreglass) rod down the shaft and pound the head off. It should pop off relatively easily unless you pounded it on. Then you just need to hit it harder than you pounded it on to get the head off.

 

You are not reaming to the bottom of the hosel. There is no question about that in my mind. Take a small object (I have a thin rod on my bench) and measure to the bottom of the hosel. If it doesn't agree with the inserted depth, you need to ream it better.

 

This.

 

It can only be the depth and diameter of the ream job or the diameter of the shaft. Check each of the shafts and the depth of the bore with a set of calipers and you'll know.

[Nixhex524]

Have you tried adding a little heat to it? Maybe spraying a little WD40 in it?

[Socrates]

Have you tried adding a little heat to it? Maybe spraying a little WD40 in it?

He needs to be careful with any of that since it is a black head and you don't want to do anything that will change the color.

[Nessism]

Agree with the rod. Add a little penetrating oil on the edge of the shaft to hosel contact too. Just be sure to clean off the oil afterwards or your epoxy won't stick.

[HitaHouse]

The thermal difference approach may actually help - put some crushed ice down the shaft (dry ice if you can get it) and let the shaft get cold, use a shaft puller if you have one and apply finger warmth to the hosel while it is under load.

[jvincent]

Having been in this situation before putting the head under running hot water for a bit has helped in the past.

 

If that doesn't work, shaft puller is the way to go.

[MysteryV]

Thank you everyone!

 

Thing was STUCK STUCK. I took it into The Golf Mart and they were able to use the hydraulic shaft puller to take the head off. Original problem solved.

 

Now the issue remains that the shafts just wont seat all the way down in the heads. Reading through previous threads, Miura heads need to be reamed, however I've done that with the .355 reamer that Golfworks sells, and am now at a loss as to what to do. I certainly don't want to to create slop in the hosels, and I also don't want to take material off the shaft tips.

 

Thoughts?

[platgof]

You would be better off sanding the shafts a little to see if that helps. It will be the easiest solution. Be very careful around graphite when sanding, nasty stuff. Do not use air for anything while sanding. If you could place the shaft on a rubber mat and spin it while applying sandpaper to the shaft. Make sure to tape off any area not being sanded. Electrical tape might be good for this.

[Jagpilotohio]

You would be better off sanding the shafts a little to see if that helps. It will be the easiest solution. Be very careful around graphite when sanding, nasty stuff. Do not use air for anything while sanding. If you could place the shaft on a rubber mat and spin it while applying sandpaper to the shaft. Make sure to tape off any area not being sanded. Electrical tape might be good for this.

 

Oban CT-115’s are steel shafts.

[Nixhex524]

Have you tried adding a little heat to it? Maybe spraying a little WD40 in it?

He needs to be careful with any of that since it is a black head and you don't want to do anything that will change the color.

 

It's amazing what even a very little bit of heat can do... if you damage a black head with a flame you should never be allowed to play with fire ever again.

[Socrates]

Have you tried adding a little heat to it? Maybe spraying a little WD40 in it?

He needs to be careful with any of that since it is a black head and you don't want to do anything that will change the color.

 

It's amazing what even a very little bit of heat can do... if you damage a black head with a flame you should never be allowed to play with fire ever again.

More concerned about the WD-40 staining it.

[Nixhex524]

Have you tried adding a little heat to it? Maybe spraying a little WD40 in it?

He needs to be careful with any of that since it is a black head and you don't want to do anything that will change the color.

 

It's amazing what even a very little bit of heat can do... if you damage a black head with a flame you should never be allowed to play with fire ever again.

More concerned about the WD-40 staining it.

 

Won't happen. You should only be applying it to the inside of the hosel in this case anyway. Like mentioned earlier, you'd only have to be concerned about getting it all cleaned out before epoxy. If it gets on the outside, just wipe it off.