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Anti-hook, low spin driver


nybluebird

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Dear OP,

 

My personal opinion is that we need to understand better why you are snap-hooking. Without understanding your swing, there’s only so much recommendation that can be done.

 

1) The Swing problem:

 

Clubhead speed for the average golfer is 85 to 100 miles per hour. Let's say you're swinging down at 90 mph, and your body stops turning . What happens? Well, you're not stopping that clubhead, so it whips past you. The face flips closed, and you hit a snap-hook--a low screamer that turns left before it leaves the tee box.

 

With most snap-hooks, there's another telltale sign: Your weight never shifts to your front foot during the downswing. Combine that with a stalled turn, and it's easy to snap it. Especially with uphill tee shots, where there's an urge to hang back and help the ball up, or when nerves or fatigue work against a full turn through the ball.

 

Hence we golfers must always remember to get our belt buckle to the target. Keep turning until the middle of our body faces forward. And be sure to shift off that back foot. Shift forward, turn through. Then we can beat those nasty hooks.

 

However, with some players, they have too much body action on the downswing. They slide their hips aggressively, which can cause the club to drop behind the body. The result often is a big block to the right causing the hands to move without the body which gives you a snap hook!

 

2) The Club problem:

 

Could it be the Driver Head’s CG design doesn’t suit your consistent impact position on the clubface?

 

If you are hitting the ball with a positive face to path, but still getting a hook, it could be due to too much of a negative spin axis problem where you are hitting the ball off the toe of the club face.

 

Just like how some people hit the ball in a in-to-out swing path but still play a fade(slice) because they created too much positive spin axis on the golf ball by striking it off the heel of the club face.

 

Choose a driver that has a CG spot located as close to where you hit it out of consistently, that would help. Just like how, all the Slice players out there can buy the M6 D-Type driver to hit straight shots because the Sweet spot CG location of that driver is in the Heel!!

 

So buy a driver head that has a CG closest to your consistent impact spot. I’m guessing that would be near the Toe.

 

Based on all the drivers in 2018 (2019 drivers data not out yet), the G400Max has the CG closest to the toe. 2nd place would be an M3. Third is the G400LST.

 

After we solve the above issue, then we can start looking at what launch conditions you want based on your angle of attack and select the head with the right loft and right front to back CG location.

 

Please don’t mix up, in the 1st issue, we were filtering the driver heads according to Heel to Toe CG location to make up for the striking consistency.

 

Front to back CG is more on launch characteristics and MOI forgiveness.

 

Assuming you’re launching the ball fine. The next thing is to choose a driver that has a higher MOI so that the driver head weight is split over a larger mass which makes the club head more stable on off-center strikes hence mitigating the hook or slice effect.

 

Imagine an old school persimmon wood with low MOI, any strike other than the sweet spot would cause the club face to “twist” you can feel it in your hands like the club wants to twist loose out of your grip. A large MOI club head being more stable, mitigates that effect which might help your snap hooks be less hooky lol.

 

Another reason I could think of could be the shaft not being stiff enough and giving too much deflection upon release/impact. Perhaps playing a stiffer shaft depending on your swing speed and a shaft with slightly lower torque <3.5 might help.

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Taylormade drivers will have the least amount of draw bias of anyone. M3 or M5 would do the trick. And if you want to make sure of the face angle go Tour issue. You can buy heads for $400 brand new in M3 tour issue. I'd much rather have a year old Tour head than the most recent retail one.

 

 

I get the idea the OP is talking about spending about $150 for the whole golf club.

 

Haha. Well then he's going to maybe have to go back to R15. I try to stay out of the budget threads.

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Search is on for a driver best suited to me. Currently playing a JDM TM SLDR with Matrix OZIK 7m3 xflex. When I'm on with it, its pretty good, but I think I might be missing the boat a bit with forgiveness. I'm 6'2", with about 110 SS, with several more mph on standby when needed and a pretty good transition. Getting a little older (late 40's), but still play pretty well, maybe 2-3 handicap. Being a baseball player in my younger days, I always found my miss to be left, and sometimes get a case of the snaps. I'm guessing something low spin and anti left, if it exists. G400 LST? Epic SZ? M3 440? I'm open to suggestions. I'd of course prefer something used to keep cost down, and keep the wife happy. Thanks in advance.

 

I recommend the Cobra FlyZ+

It's adjustable hosel is second to none, and when the weight insert bias is set forward, it's baby fade all day.

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Cheap: Cobra Amp Cell Pro on fade. Have mine with a swing weight at D7!

Brand new: Flash SZ or M5.

Left field: Epon Zero.

 

Driver: still looking.....
4 Wood: Kamui Pro TP-XF 17.5° + Fujikura Speeder Evolution VI FW70x @ 42 1/2".

7 Wood: Kamui Pro TP-XF 22.5° + Fujikura Speeder Evolution VI FW80x @ 41 3/4".
Irons: Kamui Pro KP-102 5i-PW + KBS TGI 110 + 1/2".
Wedges: Callaway Jaws Forged 50°/55°/60° + KBS C-Taper
Putter: SeeMore SB1 + Accra FX300.

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I did nothing but snap hook the flyz+

 

Ltd pro on fade was completely different

Titleist TSR3 - 9* - Ventus TR Black 6x

Callaway Rogue LS - 15* - Tour ADXC 7x

Callaway Apex UW - 19* - Ventus Black 7x

PXG 0311P Gen6 - 5i-GW - DG x100

Vokey SM9 - 52.12F, 56.14F - KBS Tour 120 Wedge

Vokey SM9 - 60.08M - KBS Hi-Rev 2.0

L.A.B Link.1
Callaway Chrome Soft TruTrack (Winter)
Vessel Player III - Citrine/White/Black (Riding)
Vessel VLS DXR - Grey/Orange (Walking/half-bag)
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Honma TW737 445, if you can make it go left you should just quit the game.

Driver: Titleist Tsi3 w/HZRDUS Smoke Yellow TX 6.0 
3 Wood: Cobra King Speedzone/HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70

5 Wood: Callaway Mavrik Subzero/Aldila Rogue White 70
Long Irons (4-6): Wilson D7 Forged/DG120TI
Short Irons (7-P): Wilson Staff Model Blade/DG120TI

Wedges (50/54/58): Callaway Jaws MD5 w/TI S200
Putter: Original Odyssey White Hot XG No. 7
Ball: Titleist Left Dash

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Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung

 

And I can hook the crap out of that shaft as well, haha... That's how I know I'm freaking awesome!

 

I've found the best way to have an anti-hook, low spin driver head is to have an anti-hook, low spin swing....

 

But, if we are just talking about pure set ups, I'd say the LTD Pro and 2016 M2 are the two most anti-left driver heads I've used. Throw a pro orange in it, like the gentleman above said, and that maybe as anti left as you get.

Callaway Paradym Triple 💎 10.5* Ventus Blue 6X/TR 6S
Titleist TSR2 16.5* (Set to 15.75*) Tour AD DI 7S
Titleist TSR2 18* Hybrid Tour AD IZ 85S
Titleist u505 4i (21*) Tour AD DI 95S

Srixon Zx7 MK II 5-PW, 51* AW - Modus 105S
Callaway Jaws 56*-Jaws Full Toe 60*-  DG 115 TI S200

Toulon Garage Custom Las Vegas H7 35”

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Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung

 

And I can hook the crap out of that shaft as well, haha... That's how I know I'm freaking awesome!

 

I've found the best way to have an anti-hook, low spin driver head is to have an anti-hook, low spin swing....

 

But, if we are just talking about pure set ups, I'd say the LTD Pro and 2016 M2 are the two most anti-left driver heads I've used. Throw a pro orange in it, like the gentleman above said, and that maybe as anti left as you get.

Funny story, my miss on Trackman with the LTD Pro and PO 70TX was left as well lol. Like, 60 yard hooks. Of course 9* in to out doesn't help. Sometimes CB shafts dont get along with certain swings. Perhaps tipping could help.

Driver: Cobra LTD Pro 7.5o - Kuro Kage DC XT 70 TX - Tipped 1"

UDI: 2019 TaylorMade P790 2i

Irons: 3-PW: Srixon z745 with Modus 130x

Wedges: 52o/56o/60o - Cleveland RTX4s

Putter: Ping Kushin 4

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Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung

 

And I can hook the crap out of that shaft as well, haha... That's how I know I'm freaking awesome!

 

I've found the best way to have an anti-hook, low spin driver head is to have an anti-hook, low spin swing....

 

But, if we are just talking about pure set ups, I'd say the LTD Pro and 2016 M2 are the two most anti-left driver heads I've used. Throw a pro orange in it, like the gentleman above said, and that maybe as anti left as you get.

Funny story, my miss on Trackman with the LTD Pro and PO 70TX was left as well lol. Like, 60 yard hooks. Of course 9* in to out doesn't help. Sometimes CB shafts dont get along with certain swings. Perhaps tipping could help.

 

You need to add a good amount of weight back to the head in order to set up the PO properly. If you just bolt it on with no SW adjustment, most likely you won't feel the head and nothing but lefts will follow.

 

Similar to shortening a shaft without adding back weight, counterbalanced shafts have the same effect.

 

Also, another vote for the 2016M2 here. With a stiff tipped shaft and setup open/lower you get a very anti-left setup, especially if you can find a tour-issued head.

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LTD pro. There is no better "anti hook " low spin driver.

 

...and the bonus, it's cheap now.

 

 

Edit.....LOL! . Someone just beat me to it.....

 

....And I Forgot to add the original epic subzero. Couldn't turn it over to save my life.

I can turn the epic sz with hzrdus yellow over easy lol. dealing with a snap hook atm

Titleist TSR3 9º | VA Composite VYLYN 65

Stealth Plus 15º| Diamana ZF 70 
Stealth Plus 19º | Diamana ZF 70

Mizuno JPX 923 Tour | KBS Tour
Vokey SM9 50/54/58  | DG TI S400

Bettinardi | Queen Bee 6

TaylorMade TP5X

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Heavier shaft and counterbalanced shafts bring left more into play.

 

Stiffer tip and lighter more fade bias

Titleist TSR3 - 9* - Ventus TR Black 6x

Callaway Rogue LS - 15* - Tour ADXC 7x

Callaway Apex UW - 19* - Ventus Black 7x

PXG 0311P Gen6 - 5i-GW - DG x100

Vokey SM9 - 52.12F, 56.14F - KBS Tour 120 Wedge

Vokey SM9 - 60.08M - KBS Hi-Rev 2.0

L.A.B Link.1
Callaway Chrome Soft TruTrack (Winter)
Vessel Player III - Citrine/White/Black (Riding)
Vessel VLS DXR - Grey/Orange (Walking/half-bag)
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Taylormade M1 set 2* open and weights on toe does a great job of minimizing the lefts. Ditto on the snappy snappy. Smoothing out and slowing down the temp seems to help the most. Just stop trying to hit a big homer. Swing for a double. :D

Ping G430 10k 9 Tour Black 2.0 Stiff

Titleist TSI2 16.5 Tensei White Stiff

Titleist 818 21 KBS PROTO Stiff
Ping G710 4-PW

Ping S159 50 54 58

Ping Senita 38 Putter

 

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Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.

 

I thought it was strange too... but I read the article from diamana/Titleist that said lighter shafts statistically cause more right misses.

 

This is why their new Kuro and AV 50-55g series have SFT (straight flight technology) to change balance and kickpoint to minimize the rights in a lighter shaft.

 

When I read this, I went out with a whiteboard in 60 and 80, had the fitter put them in and not tell me (it was hard to tell the difference honestly), but sure enough I had more left misses with the 80.

 

The counterbalance thing is probably the same principle.

Titleist TSR3 - 9* - Ventus TR Black 6x

Callaway Rogue LS - 15* - Tour ADXC 7x

Callaway Apex UW - 19* - Ventus Black 7x

PXG 0311P Gen6 - 5i-GW - DG x100

Vokey SM9 - 52.12F, 56.14F - KBS Tour 120 Wedge

Vokey SM9 - 60.08M - KBS Hi-Rev 2.0

L.A.B Link.1
Callaway Chrome Soft TruTrack (Winter)
Vessel Player III - Citrine/White/Black (Riding)
Vessel VLS DXR - Grey/Orange (Walking/half-bag)
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Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.

 

I thought it was strange too... but I read the article from diamana/Titleist that said lighter shafts statistically cause more right misses.

 

This is why their new Kuro and AV 50-55g series have SFT (straight flight technology) to change balance and kickpoint to minimize the rights in a lighter shaft.

 

When I read this, I went out with a whiteboard in 60 and 80, had the fitter put them in and not tell me (it was hard to tell the difference honestly), but sure enough I had more left misses with the 80.

 

The counterbalance thing is probably the same principle.

 

For many players, a lighter total weight "promotes" a path that is less inside out or more outside in. As result, heavier can be easier to draw and lighter easier to fade.

 

Obviously it also depends on what the face angle is doing in relation to the path as well.

 

In general the base line starting point is.....heavier shaft and lighter head promotes easier to draw or minimize fade.....and lighter shaft with heavier head promotes easier to fade or minimize draw.

 

Most are still stuck in the old mindset of hitting a certain swing weight with their driver. So with a lighter shaft they end up going with a heavy head to get the swing weight up. Not realizing this could promote a more fade biased or more difficult to "turn over" club

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I’ll buy it.

Titleist TSR3 - 9* - Ventus TR Black 6x

Callaway Rogue LS - 15* - Tour ADXC 7x

Callaway Apex UW - 19* - Ventus Black 7x

PXG 0311P Gen6 - 5i-GW - DG x100

Vokey SM9 - 52.12F, 56.14F - KBS Tour 120 Wedge

Vokey SM9 - 60.08M - KBS Hi-Rev 2.0

L.A.B Link.1
Callaway Chrome Soft TruTrack (Winter)
Vessel Player III - Citrine/White/Black (Riding)
Vessel VLS DXR - Grey/Orange (Walking/half-bag)
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Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.

 

I thought it was strange too... but I read the article from diamana/Titleist that said lighter shafts statistically cause more right misses.

 

This is why their new Kuro and AV 50-55g series have SFT (straight flight technology) to change balance and kickpoint to minimize the rights in a lighter shaft.

 

When I read this, I went out with a whiteboard in 60 and 80, had the fitter put them in and not tell me (it was hard to tell the difference honestly), but sure enough I had more left misses with the 80.

 

The counterbalance thing is probably the same principle.

 

For many players, a lighter total weight "promotes" a path that is less inside out or more outside in. As result, heavier can be easier to draw and lighter easier to fade.

 

Obviously it also depends on what the face angle is doing in relation to the path as well.

 

In general the base line starting point is.....heavier shaft and lighter head promotes easier to draw or minimize fade.....and lighter shaft with heavier head promotes easier to fade or minimize draw.

 

Most are still stuck in the old mindset of hitting a certain swing weight with their driver. So with a lighter shaft they end up going with a heavy head to get the swing weight up. Not realizing this could promote a more fade biased or more difficult to "turn over" club

 

I might just have a unique swing. I tried some lighter versions and my gamer was an Addi 6X playing D2 in a srixon Z785 head. I got some great ball speed numbers but the snap hook was always on the table. I was fit into a speeder 757X, SW D5 and I can go after it as hard as I want and not worry the dreaded snapper. The FTP numbers were pretty dramatically different. Very possible the addi was just too soft a profile for me, being the club ho that I am I might try some of the more stout 60g offerings lol

 

Oddly enough irons I was fit into a lighter shaft, path slightly less into out, but FTP also the main difference. Rope draws vs big bananas

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It's funny because, you are using what has been widely considered one of the best drivers put out by Taylormade.

 

Fix your swing, not your driver. You'll do the same thing with another driver unless it promotes more spin.

 

A new driver is a band aid.

 

I hear you. My misses overall are left, but I'm a pretty good stick who is aging and don't currently have a ton of time on my hands to really get better. I was a +2.5 or so at one point (not any more), so I doubt I'm going to really improve much. Just looking to optimize my equipment to best suit my common miss....left. Hence the request for suggestions from my wrx people who may have more knowledge and may suffer the same as me.

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Dear OP,

 

My personal opinion is that we need to understand better why you are snap-hooking. Without understanding your swing, there’s only so much recommendation that can be done.

 

1) The Swing problem:

 

Clubhead speed for the average golfer is 85 to 100 miles per hour. Let's say you're swinging down at 90 mph, and your body stops turning . What happens? Well, you're not stopping that clubhead, so it whips past you. The face flips closed, and you hit a snap-hook--a low screamer that turns left before it leaves the tee box.

 

With most snap-hooks, there's another telltale sign: Your weight never shifts to your front foot during the downswing. Combine that with a stalled turn, and it's easy to snap it. Especially with uphill tee shots, where there's an urge to hang back and help the ball up, or when nerves or fatigue work against a full turn through the ball.

 

Hence we golfers must always remember to get our belt buckle to the target. Keep turning until the middle of our body faces forward. And be sure to shift off that back foot. Shift forward, turn through. Then we can beat those nasty hooks.

 

However, with some players, they have too much body action on the downswing. They slide their hips aggressively, which can cause the club to drop behind the body. The result often is a big block to the right causing the hands to move without the body which gives you a snap hook!

 

2) The Club problem:

 

Could it be the Driver Head’s CG design doesn’t suit your consistent impact position on the clubface?

 

If you are hitting the ball with a positive face to path, but still getting a hook, it could be due to too much of a negative spin axis problem where you are hitting the ball off the toe of the club face.

 

Just like how some people hit the ball in a in-to-out swing path but still play a fade(slice) because they created too much positive spin axis on the golf ball by striking it off the heel of the club face.

 

Choose a driver that has a CG spot located as close to where you hit it out of consistently, that would help. Just like how, all the Slice players out there can buy the M6 D-Type driver to hit straight shots because the Sweet spot CG location of that driver is in the Heel!!

 

So buy a driver head that has a CG closest to your consistent impact spot. I’m guessing that would be near the Toe.

 

Based on all the drivers in 2018 (2019 drivers data not out yet), the G400Max has the CG closest to the toe. 2nd place would be an M3. Third is the G400LST.

 

After we solve the above issue, then we can start looking at what launch conditions you want based on your angle of attack and select the head with the right loft and right front to back CG location.

 

Please don’t mix up, in the 1st issue, we were filtering the driver heads according to Heel to Toe CG location to make up for the striking consistency.

 

Front to back CG is more on launch characteristics and MOI forgiveness.

 

Assuming you’re launching the ball fine. The next thing is to choose a driver that has a higher MOI so that the driver head weight is split over a larger mass which makes the club head more stable on off-center strikes hence mitigating the hook or slice effect.

 

Imagine an old school persimmon wood with low MOI, any strike other than the sweet spot would cause the club face to “twist” you can feel it in your hands like the club wants to twist loose out of your grip. A large MOI club head being more stable, mitigates that effect which might help your snap hooks be less hooky lol.

 

Another reason I could think of could be the shaft not being stiff enough and giving too much deflection upon release/impact. Perhaps playing a stiffer shaft depending on your swing speed and a shaft with slightly lower torque <3.5 might help.

 

Great info, thanks for taking the time. Unfortunately, my swing at this point in my life, kinda is what it is. I'm pretty decent usually shoot anywhere from upper 60's to mid-upper 70's, so if I really improve much at my age with limited time, I'm joining The Champions Tour lol. Just looking to get the best info for equipment suited to my usual miss. Much appreciated

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It's funny because, you are using what has been widely considered one of the best drivers put out by Taylormade.

 

Fix your swing, not your driver. You'll do the same thing with another driver unless it promotes more spin.

 

A new driver is a band aid.

 

I hear you. My misses overall are left, but I'm a pretty good stick who is aging and don't currently have a ton of time on my hands to really get better. I was a +2.5 or so at one point (not any more), so I doubt I'm going to really improve much. Just looking to optimize my equipment to best suit my common miss....left. Hence the request for suggestions from my wrx people who may have more knowledge and may suffer the same as me.

 

I hear ya, brother. No offense intended at all. Hope none taken.

 

I'm a huge advocate (as well as most pros, fitters and coaches) for us amateurs and low / high cappers alike to LOFT UP, get more spin (2200 - 2400 depending on swing speed) and ideally, make sure you have the right shaft and right club head and your gamer ball with yuo at the time of being fit.

 

When you start looking at low low spin drivers then, you will find your slices hard over right and your draws hard hook left. Ya you'll get the 1/10 immaculate shots that will roll out 360+ yards but, I'd take consistency any day. Hence, why I went M6, EF white, and play Nike RZN Tour / TP5 Balls. I know what I'm hitting and I'm much better for it.

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      2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Monday #2
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Ben Taylor - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Garrick Higgo - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Billy Horschel - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Justin Lower - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Lanto Griffin - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Bud Cauley - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Corbin Burnes (2021 NL Cy Young) - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Greyson Sigg - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Charley Hoffman - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Nico Echavarria - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Victor Perez - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Sami Valimaki - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Ryo Hisatsune - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
       
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Jake Knapp's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      New Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Tyler Duncan's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Greyson Sigg's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Sunjae Im's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Ping's Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Vincent Whaley's custom Cameron - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Odyssey Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Super Stroke custom grips - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Zac Blair's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Bettinardi Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
       
       
       
       
       
       

       
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