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How You Can Build a Single-length (or close to it) Set of Irons


pearsonified

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Could you manipulate club weight and swingweight by using an 80 gram shaft in your wedges, 95 in your higher irons and 110 or so in your lower irons? Have not seen this brought up before, would love to hear if this is a viable option?

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Building a 37" single-length set with Titleist 804 OS forged heads and TT Dynalite Gold XP shafts. Dropped the 4-iron and will add a Titleist 200-series 52-degree gap wedge. Will play Cleveland CG15 56-degree and 60-degree wedges at 36".

 

My standard set is Ping maroon dot, +1/2", oversize grips. Maroon is +4.5-degrees up or 66.75-degrees for a 7 iron. The Titleist 3 iron lie s 60-degrees. Bending 6-7 degrees seems like a lot. Can forged heads be bent 6-7 degrees up safely? (Only bending loft on two clubs, the 5 and P, one degree strong, one weak. Loft gaps are 21.5, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 47, 52, 56, 60.)

 

FWIW, I made a DIY lie board with plywood, green spray paint and masking tape on the club bottoms. Here are the results:

 

 

 

Is there a way to tell from the wear patterns how much I should bend for correct lie? Up, obviously, but how much? 67-degrees based on the Ping fitting or (hopefully) a little less.

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  • 1 month later...

I've long thought/wanted to cut my long irons all to the length of like...my 5 or 6 iron. I don't play a 3 iron, and have all but taken the 4 out of most of my sets...I just cut my hybrid 4h 24* (accidentelly) shorter than my current 5 27* iron by about an eighth to a three eighths of an inch and don't know how I will rectify this. I will either cut the 5 iron to the length of my 4h or I will bring the 4h back up to the equal length of the 5 iron.

 

 

 

I had thought about doing this long before I ever heard of whats-his-face did the all-the-same-length set thing recently.

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  • 7 months later...

Custom-length Adams CMB Spec Update:

 

Since March 2016, I've played "standard" lie angles based off of 62º at 37". During this time, I've experienced hot and cold streaks with my ball striking, but a real pattern has emerged over the past couple months:

  • My best feeling shots start a few degrees right of the target and fly almost perfectly straight
  • Contact is almost always on the heel side and very close to the hosel at times
  • If I crush a ball either at the target or left of the target, the flight will be lower than I want, and the ball will finish even farther left of the target (in other words, varying degrees of the dreaded left-over-left miss)
  • Whenever I hit a ball precisely at the target, it's a thin shot with very little sidespin
  • On anything less than a full shot, the heel of the club will strike the ground first and often digs, which ruins the shot

When considered together, the tendencies listed above all point to the same conclusion—I need flatter lie angles. The annoying thing is how long this took me to figure out!

 

Left-over-left comes from a steepening tendency through impact. But why do I steepen? Is it a swing flaw, or is something else going on?

 

Turns out I steepen to try and get the sole to pass flatly through the turf. If I don't steepen, the heel is going to get to the ground first, which feels terrible and causes all sorts of ball flight calamities.

 

Why do I smash the ball out right? This happens when I don't steepen through impact and just let my hands release naturally. With my "standard" lie angles, the heel is down, the toe is up, and the face is pointing a few degrees right of my target through impact.

 

With lie angles that are too upright, the only way I can get the ball back to my target line is by steepening or pulling. If I don't do either, the shot is going to start right and finish right.

 

Steepening causes the left-over-left miss with a nasty tumbling flight. Pulling causes me to lift the club up a bit out of its orbit through the impact zone; this prevents the heel from clipping the ground first, but it also makes it impossible to hit anything but a thin shot.

 

Clearly, this is no way to live.

 

Considering this information, I finally had my lightbulb moment with lie angles: I need to go flatter to get the sole to pass through the turf more evenly! My brain is a persnicketty b*stard—it knows if the club is passing through the ground evenly, and if it senses something is amiss, it really wants to force a corrective action through impact.

 

Interesting side note: I always thought I needed quieter hands through impact. Turns out I just needed a quieter brain!

 

Literally all of my miss tendencies are the result of my hands wanting to be lower through impact, but standard lie angles simply do not support that position.

 

To address this, I bent my lie angles 2.5º-3º flatter than they had been previously (and I honestly think I could even go another degree or two flatter, but this also requires a re-examination of shaft lengths). I even did this with my wedges, which really suffer from heel-fats on partial swings:

 

adams-cmb-custom-specs-july-2017.png

 

With the lengths held constant, this 3º flattening of the lie angles has effectively shortened my butt-to-floor distance (BtF in the chart above) by 0.9". This means my hands can be nearly 1" lower through impact with each club in this set.

 

So far, the results have been utterly revolutionary. I am finally achieving the same feel I used to have when I'd get hot in baseball—my shots feel like line drives to center and right center field. As long as I don't turn the hands over too early ("release the barrel" in baseball parlance), I won't hit a swinging draw or a ball that starts left of my target.

 

With this flatter setup, I can finally feel how my left arm is supposed to work. Unfortunately, years of playing with lie angles that are too upright have trained my left arm to operate in some strange ways, so it'll take some time to reprogram that arm for optimal performance on each swing.

 

I'm finally able to achieve full extension after impact, too. Think about a baseball player who makes a beautiful swing and then releases the right hand from the bat shortly after impact (the classic one-handed finish). The only way to do this without losing control is to have full extension through impact.

 

With lie angles that were too upright, I was unable to mimic this one-handed action and hit a golf ball with the right hand coming off the club shortly after impact. The pulling/steepening action massively destabilizes the club through the impact area, and there's just no way you're going to let go of one hand and maintain any control over the club.

 

Quick clarification: I'm not saying a one-handed finish is desirable in golf. I AM saying something is likely jacked with your swing/equipment if you are unable to hit a solid golf shot while letting the right hand go shortly after impact.

 

With these flatter lie angles, I can easily sweep the club through impact as my arms reach full extension. This position allows me to feel the orientation of the club face much longer during the swing, up to a point that is 3 or 4 feet past impact (along the swing arc).

 

Thanks to this newfound feel and sense, I have been able to hit slight cuts (with the proper intent and impact) for the first time in my life. It's incredible.

 

Hitting balls now feels just like batting practice. Baby fades feel like line drives to right center field that have enough cut spin to move the ball a bit. Really letting the hands go feels like hitting hooky line drives to left center (but the ball still stays pretty close to my target line!).

 

This is the ultimate revolution for me. Now that hitting golf balls feels like hitting baseballs, I am confident I can tap into a lifetime's worth of swing knowledge (and success) to achieve the results I want out on the golf course.

 

In summary:

 

Your brain—and thus your swing—will not cooperate if your lie angles are not right for how you swing.

 

IMO, you cannot use a lie board or even your divots to determine what kind of modifications you might need to make to your lie angles. Instead, you must rely on known tendencies, misses, and ball flights, and then you need to compare those to the feeling you have through impact.

 

For example, even while playing with clubs that are too upright, I consistently fool lie boards and hit the toe first (but I also hit crappy left-over-left shots). On the course, my divots show a slight toe-down bias, but this is the product of my steepening correction through impact!

 

The only "evidence" that pointed towards my need to go flatter was my pattern of misses and my feeling of never "soling" the club cleanly through impact.

 

**********

 

Finally, I mentioned earlier that I could probably go a couple more degrees flatter, but this would drop my impact height another 0.6" throughout the set. At some point, I'll reach my "limbo line" (how low can you go?), and I'll need to add some length to offset the reduced butt-to-floor height.

 

Of course, at this point, one could argue that I will have reached an inflection point—you can only go so flat before the club either [1] no longer reaches the ball or [2] requires the hands to be higher again to accommodate the additional shaft length needed to reach the ball.

 

In other words, there is definitely such a thing as "optimally flat" (or upright), and this is most easily gleaned from paying attention to your butt-to-floor distances throughout the set.

 

See my Clubmaker's Calculator for more.

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Pearsonified,

 

Something to consider is using Cobra's One Length Wedges with some tip weights. The Cobra One Length heads are around 270 grams and its much easier to add weight to these then remove weight from the others.

 

Lastly as you know I am a huge proponent of taller players using overlength clubs. With that said, I have to admit a true set of single length clubs, not the hobbled together stuff you and I both did, are AMAZING!! I am truly shocked at how much better the true single length heads perform then say a standard 5 or 6 iron head loaded up with lead tape and tip weights. Already have two sets, both the cast and forged Cobra offerings, and they both are great and easy to use. Not sure which one is better, they are both great!

 

One thing you quickly realize when using single length clubs is there is a precise length/lie set up that will work best for you. You notice length changes down to 1/8"!! 1/2* changes things dramatically. It's been eye opening and very fun to use these clubs.

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Pearsonified,

 

Something to consider is using Cobra's One Length Wedges with some tip weights. The Cobra One Length heads are around 270 grams and its much easier to add weight to these then remove weight from the others.

 

Lastly as you know I am a huge proponent of taller players using overlength clubs. With that said, I have to admit a true set of single length clubs, not the hobbled together stuff you and I both did, are AMAZING!! I am truly shocked at how much better the true single length heads perform then say a standard 5 or 6 iron head loaded up with lead tape and tip weights. Already have two sets, both the cast and forged Cobra offerings, and they both are great and easy to use. Not sure which one is better, they are both great!

 

One thing you quickly realize when using single length clubs is there is a precise length/lie set up that will work best for you. You notice length changes down to 1/8"!! 1/2* changes things dramatically. It's been eye opening and very fun to use these clubs.

 

 

You mean to tell me...that you are using a long iron that is possibly shorter than a progressively lengthened set...and it actually works? And you're happy? Come again? :)

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Something to consider is using Cobra's One Length Wedges with some tip weights. The Cobra One Length heads are around 270 grams and its much easier to add weight to these then remove weight from the others.

Very ingenious solution here! Even 1/2" in shaft length can make a wedge (especially Vokeys) feel too heavy; being able to get lighter wedge heads this easily is quite excellent.

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TM MG 50º •• PX LZ 5.5
TM MG 54º •• DG S200
Mizuno T20 60º/06º •• DG S400
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Pearsonified,

 

Something to consider is using Cobra's One Length Wedges with some tip weights. The Cobra One Length heads are around 270 grams and its much easier to add weight to these then remove weight from the others.

 

Lastly as you know I am a huge proponent of taller players using overlength clubs. With that said, I have to admit a true set of single length clubs, not the hobbled together stuff you and I both did, are AMAZING!! I am truly shocked at how much better the true single length heads perform then say a standard 5 or 6 iron head loaded up with lead tape and tip weights. Already have two sets, both the cast and forged Cobra offerings, and they both are great and easy to use. Not sure which one is better, they are both great!

 

One thing you quickly realize when using single length clubs is there is a precise length/lie set up that will work best for you. You notice length changes down to 1/8"!! 1/2* changes things dramatically. It's been eye opening and very fun to use these clubs.

 

 

You mean to tell me...that you are using a long iron that is possibly shorter than a progressively lengthened set...and it actually works? And you're happy? Come again? :)

 

Playing them at 38". And there's a huge difference between playing a 240 ish gram long iron and playing a 270 gram long iron. Way more to it then just length. One length clubs are truly a different animal. But you'll probably tell me one length clubs don't work, especially at 38". Since you're so astute do you remember what my minimum length was?

 

And don't bother preaching to me as I'm still quite happily using my overlength fairways and driver. Big oversized grips too! But as we all know you love to do your drive by preaching.

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Have any of you had any experience using what are typically used for putter weights when adding weight to long irons in a single length set? Looks like Edel did in Bryson's Masters set. Also, does anybody know what the gold plate is on the back? Seems like a better way than adding tons of lead tape, although it will put a good amount of weight in one central location.

7e15318963f07c42b885c2584da3f2bc-600x400.jpg

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The gold plate is probably tungsten or another metal that is heavier and more dense than steel—perfect for achieving the desired weight without modifying the overall look of the cavity too much.

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TM 2016 M2 3HL 16.5º •• Aldila NV 2KXV Orange 65X
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Adams CMB 24º–46º •• DG TI S400
TM MG 50º •• PX LZ 5.5
TM MG 54º •• DG S200
Mizuno T20 60º/06º •• DG S400
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Have any of you tried the Diamond tour golf super oversize grips?

Haven't tried these, but I love messing with different grips. I had a lot of early success with the JumboMax grips, but after about 6 months, I got into a rut that ultimately led me to abandon them.

 

Now that I better understand why I struggled, I'm tempted to put one of these larger grips back on a test club and see how it goes.

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TM 2016 M2 3HL 16.5º •• Aldila NV 2KXV Orange 65X
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TM MG 50º •• PX LZ 5.5
TM MG 54º •• DG S200
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I don't see using the putter weights for a home build, unless they are tungsten. If they are steel, I'd say just use lead in some form.

The big bar on the Edel looks like brass to me, but who knows.

 

You can use JB Weld to attach almost anything, and contour it into a reasonable shape too. I have used it to attach the 1/4 inch diameter cylindrical tungsten port weights from Wishon into the cavity of a clubhead. It's gray so it doesn't stand out that much in a cavity. Down in an undercut channel, I just use black epoxy.

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I attempted to go with 3/8" progression to test out the poor mans MOI matching method but I felt I did not have control of the heads of the 5,6 iron so I have gone back to swing weighted set with 1/2" length progressions

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I don't see using the putter weights for a home build, unless they are tungsten. If they are steel, I'd say just use lead in some form.

The big bar on the Edel looks like brass to me, but who knows.

 

You can use JB Weld to attach almost anything, and contour it into a reasonable shape too. I have used it to attach the 1/4 inch diameter cylindrical tungsten port weights from Wishon into the cavity of a clubhead. It's gray so it doesn't stand out that much in a cavity. Down in an undercut channel, I just use black epoxy.

What would you say is the best way to add weight to the longer iron heads in a homemade single length set? Say if i needed to add 25g?

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I'm in the process of putting together a set with shorter long irons. I'm looking at keeping the 7 iron at 37 inches (with 1/2" increments to PW) and building the 4 iron at 38 inches. The five and six iron will be equally spaced between. I have added the weight to the heads and will glue a couple of irons up shortly to test. It will be couple of weeks until I can hit them but it should be interesting.

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I attempted to go with 3/8" progression to test out the poor mans MOI matching method but I felt I did not have control of the heads of the 5,6 iron so I have gone back to swing weighted set with 1/2" length progressions

 

There is something about MOI matching that never worked for me either.

My guess is that using the butt end of the club as the MOI fulcrum is the problem for you and me. But no one knows where else it should be either. Swingweighting uses a point 14 inches from the butt. Maybe it should be there. Maybe it should be between the hands at 5 inches. Maybe it's not even within the club, maybe it's 2 inches beyond, or wherever.

 

I think the MOI Balance matching method using ascending weight shafts hold more promise for me personally.

 

Although, I am veering off topic, really.

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I don't see using the putter weights for a home build, unless they are tungsten. If they are steel, I'd say just use lead in some form.

The big bar on the Edel looks like brass to me, but who knows.

 

You can use JB Weld to attach almost anything, and contour it into a reasonable shape too. I have used it to attach the 1/4 inch diameter cylindrical tungsten port weights from Wishon into the cavity of a clubhead. It's gray so it doesn't stand out that much in a cavity. Down in an undercut channel, I just use black epoxy.

What would you say is the best way to add weight to the longer iron heads in a homemade single length set? Say if i needed to add 25g?

 

Some way that keeps the weight down low, to assist in launch. That said, I'd probably start with weight in the shaft/hosel, then add to the clubhead. Just because of the amount of weight If you can get 9 grams inside the hosel, and the rest on the clubhead, it will probably be okay.

 

Pinhawk heads are not that expensive....

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as most have said that toyed with making their own shortened long irons is that they tend to launch lower, im sure if you dissembled a set of the cobra one length you would see the majority of the weight is low to promote a higher launch

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TM Original One Mini Driver 13* (set at 11.5*) w/ Mitsubishi Diamana BF 80TX Tipped 1.5" @ 43"
Srixon U45 18* w/ N.S. Pro Modus3 GOST Tour X @ 39.5"
Callaway UW 21* w/ Aldila VS Proto 95X Tipped 1.75" @ 41" / Srixon U45 23* w/ Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour X @ 38.5"

Cobra KING Tour with MIM w/ PX LS 7.0 5-PW / Srixon Z745 5-PW w/ DG TI X7's (PW Tipped 1/4")
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I attempted to go with 3/8" progression to test out the poor mans MOI matching method but I felt I did not have control of the heads of the 5,6 iron so I have gone back to swing weighted set with 1/2" length progressions

 

There is something about MOI matching that never worked for me either.

My guess is that using the butt end of the club as the MOI fulcrum is the problem for you and me. But no one knows where else it should be either. Swingweighting uses a point 14 inches from the butt. Maybe it should be there. Maybe it should be between the hands at 5 inches. Maybe it's not even within the club, maybe it's 2 inches beyond, or wherever.

 

I think the MOI Balance matching method using ascending weight shafts hold more promise for me personally.

 

Although, I am veering off topic, really.

 

Where you believe that MOI should be measured is absolutely irrelevant to MOI fitting and adjustment. Whether you would use the butt end of the club or any other point in between, all that is important is that you use the same method for all clubs. The MOI absolute measurements only have relevance to the individual golfer that is being fit and within the set. Once you find an MOI value (and hopefully MBI) that matches your swing, you can then proceed to build the rest of the set to those specs. It does not matter where you believe the fulcrum of the swing is.

 

I hope you understand now that any arguments regarding how MOI is measured has no bearing in the end when it comes to the final fitting and club builds.

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  • 9 months later...

Bump.

 

So I have a set of F7 One's with KBS Tour FLT in the mail. Looking forward to giving them a run.

 

However, I'm also interested in building a SL set out of the clubs I have and having them bent for proper fit. Right now I'm playing some Wishon 870ti's, which I LOVE for their variable face forgiveness and oversized face. So the question is -

 

Assuming a good fit for the golfer, could a SL set be arranged around a heavier head weight? Say, maybe 280g or so if they are back-weighted and played around 36.5"?

 

I don't want to do much grinding at all to the 870's, and the PW is 284g. I'm fine with adding a ton of weight (probably by glueing tungsten pads) to the longer irons and hybrid, as there is ample flat space.

 

Sorry for the noob question, but what do you all think?

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  • 1 month later...

You could do it this way, but things start to feel very weird when you've added a ton of weight to 4- and 5-iron heads.

 

I could never get the long irons to "feel right," even though all the numbers and swing weight measuring devices suggested they should feel like my other irons.

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Callaway Apex 20º •• PX Evenflow Black 80HY X
Adams CMB 24º–46º •• DG TI S400
TM MG 50º •• PX LZ 5.5
TM MG 54º •• DG S200
Mizuno T20 60º/06º •• DG S400
Toulon Atlanta 35"

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  • 7 months later...

Been thinking about this too - but only really need to increase confidence (and ball striking) on 3, 4 and 5 irons so thinking of using a spare set* and having the pro adjust the loft to take 1 degree off the 5 iron and 2 off the 4 iron and 3 off the 3 iron.

 

I'll leave the lie angles for now but go down the shaft by half an inch on 5 iron, inch on the 4 and inch and a half on the 3 iron to see how that feels and if its odd then take half an inch off the 3 and 5 iron first....then fiddle a bit more including lie angles.

 

* Spares are titleist 704 cb - a bit annoyed that I didn't think it thru last year when replacing the shafts on my TM RAC TP forged but dont want to mess about with them until I see how it goes with the spares.

 

And yes I stopped looking at new irons a dozen years ago when all the manufacturers started painting silly numbers on the bottom of them.....

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  • 1 month later...

You could do it this way, but things start to feel very weird when you've added a ton of weight to 4- and 5-iron heads.

 

I could never get the long irons to "feel right," even though all the numbers and swing weight measuring devices suggested they should feel like my other irons.

I built a single length 4 iron measured to a 7 iron length. Swingweight should have been par with other clubs but feel was compromised. I had to put face tape on the club because I thought I wasn't hitting the center but to my surprise they were right in the center of the club face.

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  • 1 year later...

Fantastic detail and info thanks personified

I m curious about shafts options or choices, did kick points come into the equation? Ie a type of flighted shaft , in order to reduce ball flight in the short irons and increase it in the long irons?

I have quite a few clubs lying around as well as shafts, and I want to build a 1 or 2 length set 4-pw or gw, using nickent 4dx pro heads, 1 they are cavity backs so lots of places to put lead tape, and 2 forged so adjusting lie angles will/should be relatively easy

Further to the shafts any preferences graphite / steel / lightweight vs standard weight, my main question again regards kick points?

Thanks in advance for the great info above

 

 

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      David Lipsky - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Martin Trainer - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Zac Blair - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jacob Bridgeman - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Trace Crowe - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jimmy Walker - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Daniel Berger - WITB(very mini) - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Chesson Hadley - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Callum McNeill - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Rhein Gibson - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Patrick Fishburn - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Peter Malnati - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Raul Pereda - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Gary Woodland WITB (New driver, iron shafts) – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Padraig Harrington WITB – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Tom Hoge's custom Cameron - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Piretti putters - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Ping putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Kevin Dougherty's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Bettinardi putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Erik Barnes testing an all-black Axis1 putter – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Tony Finau's new driver shaft – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
       
      • 8 replies
    • 2024 Valspar Championship WITB Photos (Thanks to bvmagic)- Discussion & Links to Photos
      This weeks WITB Pics are from member bvmagic (Brian). Brian's first event for WRX was in 2008 at Bayhill while in college. Thanks so much bv.
       
      Please put your comments or question on this thread. Links to all the threads are below...
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 31 replies
    • 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #3
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Matt (LFG) Every - WITB - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Sahith Theegala - WITB - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Cameron putters (and new "LD" grip) - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Bettinardi MB & CB irons - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Bettinardi API putter cover - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Swag API covers - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Golf Pride Reverse Taper grips - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 15 replies
    • 2024 Cognizant Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #1
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #2
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #3
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #4
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Brandt Snedeker - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Max Greyserman - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Eric Cole - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Carl Yuan - WITb - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Russell Henley - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Justin Sun - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alex Noren - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Shane Lowry - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Taylor Montgomery - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jake Knapp (KnappTime_ltd) - WITB - - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Super Stoke Pistol Lock 1.0 & 2.0 grips - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      LA Golf new insert putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Garsen Quad Tour 15 grip - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Swag covers - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jacob Bridgeman's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Ryo Hisatsune's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Chris Kirk - new black Callaway Apex CB irons and a few Odyssey putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alejandro Tosti's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
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      • 2 replies
    • 2024 Genesis Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #3
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Rory McIlroy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Sepp Straka - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Patrick Rodgers - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Brendon Todd - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Denny McCarthy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Corey Conners - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Chase Johnson - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tommy Fleetwood - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Matt Fitzpatrick - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Si Woo Kim - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Viktor Hovland - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Wyndham Clark - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Cam Davis - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Nick Taylor - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Ben Baller WITB update (New putter, driver, hybrid and shafts) – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Vortex Golf rangefinder - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Fujikura Ventus shaft - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods & TaylorMade "Sun Day Red" apparel launch event, product photos – 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods Sun Day Red golf shoes - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Aretera shafts - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Toulon putters - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods' new white "Sun Day Red" golf shoe prototypes – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      • 22 replies

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