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Reshafting i210s?


Oknows

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I’ve done plenty of club work, but never on Pings. How difficult is it? Is sending them to Ping as expensive as I’ve heard? Is doing it myself worth voiding my warranty? Thanks for any help.

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Another option is having current shafts pulled professionally somewhere other than Ping. Still, is it worth voiding warranty? Would I be able to send in for other work?

Ping G425 Max 9*, Aldila Rogue White 70s

Titleist TS3 4 wood, Diamana Kal’li 70s

New Level 902 PD, PX 6.5

Mizuno S18 50*, PX 6.5

Cleveland CBX2 54*, DG s400 TI

Callaway MD4 58*, DG s400 

Odyssey White Hot OG 7CH

 

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They are similar to other irons. A few things to be aware of...

 

- collared ferrules required. Which exact ones is debatable.

- The hosel necks down at the bottom and to get the shaft to seat you have to pound the shaft into the hosel or it wan't reach the bottom.

- Ping measures length without a grip

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Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

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Ping will still make lie angle adjustments even if you reshaft the irons yourself, so what is your concern when you say "void the warranty"? With the i210 the hosel's not going to snap off or the face cave in, and you're not going to get any warranty on the finish.

 

This. I've reshafted many ping sets and they always bend them. I've also had thr CTPs adjusted in sets with shafts i installed.

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Thanks for the info. For some reason, Ping’s policies have always scared me. Have also heard that pulling Ping heads is extremely difficult. I typically just use a heat gun.

Ping G425 Max 9*, Aldila Rogue White 70s

Titleist TS3 4 wood, Diamana Kal’li 70s

New Level 902 PD, PX 6.5

Mizuno S18 50*, PX 6.5

Cleveland CBX2 54*, DG s400 TI

Callaway MD4 58*, DG s400 

Odyssey White Hot OG 7CH

 

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A heat gun is the wrong tool. Much less heat goes into the head and shaft when using a torch.

 

Ping heads can be difficult to pull because, as mentioned before, the shaft is pounded into the head from the factory. You need to twist hard to break that bond.

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Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Ping will still make lie angle adjustments even if you reshaft the irons yourself, so what is your concern when you say "void the warranty"? With the i210 the hosel's not going to snap off or the face cave in, and you're not going to get any warranty on the finish.

 

This. I've reshafted many ping sets and they always bend them. I've also had thr CTPs adjusted in sets with shafts i installed.

 

You're concerned about the head itself breaking? I assume that's only going to happen if you try to bend them yourself or have someone other than Ping do it. What else could possibly happen to the head aside from normal wear, which is never covered by warranty.

 

Oknows - I just pulled the original Ping installed shaft in my G25 5 iron. As Nessism says, use a torch. I heated the hosel for about 45 seconds, moving the torch and rotating the club. When the bond is broken you'll hear a pop and a bit of smoke escaping from the hosel. At that point its easy to twist off the shaft. If there is slight discolouration on the hosel I clean it with Bar Keepers Friend. And Ping are pretty good to deal with. They just won't reinstall a shaft once its been pulled, whether its steel or graphite.

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Ping will still make lie angle adjustments even if you reshaft the irons yourself, so what is your concern when you say "void the warranty"? With the i210 the hosel's not going to snap off or the face cave in, and you're not going to get any warranty on the finish.

 

This. I've reshafted many ping sets and they always bend them. I've also had thr CTPs adjusted in sets with shafts i installed.

 

You're concerned about the head itself breaking? I assume that's only going to happen if you try to bend them yourself or have someone other than Ping do it. What else could possibly happen to the head aside from normal wear, which is never covered by warranty.

 

Good points. Thanks.

Ping G425 Max 9*, Aldila Rogue White 70s

Titleist TS3 4 wood, Diamana Kal’li 70s

New Level 902 PD, PX 6.5

Mizuno S18 50*, PX 6.5

Cleveland CBX2 54*, DG s400 TI

Callaway MD4 58*, DG s400 

Odyssey White Hot OG 7CH

 

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Anyone have a ferrule suggestion?

 

Very specific. The Glide Ferrules. I just did two. Golfworks has them listed as “glider” ferrules for some stupid reason. If you are very careful and you use a torch just on the hosel you can sometimes save the old ones. I wrap the ferrule in a thin 1/2 inch wide piece of paper towel wetted with ice cold water. Move the torch around the hosel for about 20 seconds. If you don’t overheat it you can save that ferrule. The collar will deform a little but it can often still be re used.

 

Pulling steel shafts from pings can be difficult because they can “stick” in the unusual Ping Taper. They can really be jammed in there by the factory. . It is good to have them very firmly in a shaft clamp and then not be scared to twist them hard with a gloved hand to break them loose. Sometimes even with a shaft clamp I have to hold the grip at the same time as twisting the head so it doesn’t slip n the clamp.

 

Pulling graphite requires a graphite puller so it is similar to other clubs.

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Any chance just a regular heat gun will do the trick?

 

Don’t be a cheapo. Get a torch. I haven’t used a heat gun for 25 years. Way too slow and with graphite shafts they can actually damage the shafts because of that long time exposed to lower heat.

 

Heat it up quick and be done. Shaft adapters on woods will only take 8-10 seconds. No damage.

 

With steel shafts and iron hosels it’s only about 20 seconds.

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Any chance just a regular heat gun will do the trick?

 

You can use a heatgun. Some heads do take forever so its not always the best tool.

 

What type of torch do most of you use?

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Anyone have a ferrule suggestion?

 

Ping did not use ferrules on its irons, G25 and earlier. Why did they start? In 2012, a GolfWorks school instructor told me he liked working on Pings because you didn't have to waste time turning ferrules.

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Any chance just a regular heat gun will do the trick?

 

You can use a heatgun. Some heads do take forever so its not always the best tool.

 

What type of torch do most of you use?

 

I use a full size propane torch but a small mini may be better. You don't even need a glove, just as don't touch the hosel. A heat gun spews heat over a much wider area. Try twisting off a head after warming with a heat gun and you will burn your hand.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Any chance just a regular heat gun will do the trick?

 

You can use a heatgun. Some heads do take forever so its not always the best tool.

 

What type of torch do most of you use?

 

I went to my local kitchen store and got a small butane torch that's normally used to caramelize the tops of creme brûlée. Works perfectly and nice compact size.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Run-4847-Butane-Brûlée/dp/B0036AS2AG

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Also, if you're interested in trying to save the ferrules as JagPilot suggested, this will be nearly impossible with a heat gun for the reason he and Ness described about the heat spreading too much.

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Also, if you're interested in trying to save the ferrules as JagPilot suggested, this will be nearly impossible with a heat gun for the reason he and Ness described about the heat spreading too much.

 

Okay i have to jump in here again

I use a heat gun exclusively. I dont own a torch. I do all my work about 10 feet away from the furnace and water heater so im a bit hesitant to use open flame

 

Regardless...i pull both steel and graphite monthly, if not weekly. I have never had a shaft or head damaged from too much heat from the gun. I've never had graphite break or weaken from a pull.

 

The heat gun is 100% less efficient, but it doesnt melt ferrules, paint, or badges on clubs.

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Also, if you're interested in trying to save the ferrules as JagPilot suggested, this will be nearly impossible with a heat gun for the reason he and Ness described about the heat spreading too much.

 

Okay i have to jump in here again

I use a heat gun exclusively. I dont own a torch. I do all my work about 10 feet away from the furnace and water heater so im a bit hesitant to use open flame

 

Regardless...i pull both steel and graphite monthly, if not weekly. I have never had a shaft or head damaged from too much heat from the gun. I've never had graphite break or weaken from a pull.

 

The heat gun is 100% less efficient, but it doesnt melt ferrules, paint, or badges on clubs.

 

If you’re honestly worried about using a propane torch around a water heater or furnace I’d think very seriously about replacing your water or furnace.

 

There isn’t the SLIGHTEST reason to be concerned about this unless you think one of your appliances has a leak....and if that’s the case you will eventually blow up your house anyway....and It won’t have anything to do with using a torch for your golf work.

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Also, if you're interested in trying to save the ferrules as JagPilot suggested, this will be nearly impossible with a heat gun for the reason he and Ness described about the heat spreading too much.

 

Okay i have to jump in here again

I use a heat gun exclusively. I dont own a torch. I do all my work about 10 feet away from the furnace and water heater so im a bit hesitant to use open flame

 

Regardless...i pull both steel and graphite monthly, if not weekly. I have never had a shaft or head damaged from too much heat from the gun. I've never had graphite break or weaken from a pull.

 

The heat gun is 100% less efficient, but it doesnt melt ferrules, paint, or badges on clubs.

 

If you’re honestly worried about using a propane torch around a water heater or furnace I’d think very seriously about replacing your water or furnace.

 

There isn’t the SLIGHTEST reason to be concerned about this unless you think one of your appliances has a leak....and if that’s the case you will eventually blow up your house anyway....and It won’t have anything to do with using a torch for your golf work.

 

A very dark direction you went with this...

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Also, if you're interested in trying to save the ferrules as JagPilot suggested, this will be nearly impossible with a heat gun for the reason he and Ness described about the heat spreading too much.

 

Okay i have to jump in here again

I use a heat gun exclusively. I dont own a torch. I do all my work about 10 feet away from the furnace and water heater so im a bit hesitant to use open flame

 

Regardless...i pull both steel and graphite monthly, if not weekly. I have never had a shaft or head damaged from too much heat from the gun. I've never had graphite break or weaken from a pull.

 

The heat gun is 100% less efficient, but it doesnt melt ferrules, paint, or badges on clubs.

 

If you’re honestly worried about using a propane torch around a water heater or furnace I’d think very seriously about replacing your water or furnace.

 

There isn’t the SLIGHTEST reason to be concerned about this unless you think one of your appliances has a leak....and if that’s the case you will eventually blow up your house anyway....and It won’t have anything to do with using a torch for your golf work.

 

A very dark direction you went with this...

 

Too much?

 

My golf work space is 6 feet from my water heater and furnace. I’ve Been happily torching clubs there for 10 years. No explosion.

 

The day I smell gas is the day I put down the torch and call the plumber....very quickly.

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  • 2 years later...

hoping to revive this thread as i'm reshafting my i210 7 iron.

 

i'm very much a new "club builder" with limited supplies, i also live in NYC so you can imagine the space i'm working with.

 

I measured the hosel depth by using a dril bit, then marking depth on shaft with sharpie. when dry-fitting, looks like i'm about 1/4 inch short. From what i've read above this seems to be common- how does one "jam" the shaft rest of way? I have a vice, but it's a portable one that clamps onto my kitchen counter so not the strongest.  

 

Edited by eedub
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2 hours ago, eedub said:

hoping to revive this thread as i'm reshafting my i210 7 iron.

 

i'm very much a new "club builder" with limited supplies, i also live in NYC so you can imagine the space i'm working with.

 

I measured the hosel depth by using a dril bit, then marking depth on shaft with sharpie. when dry-fitting, looks like i'm about 1/4 inch short. From what i've read above this seems to be common- how does one "jam" the shaft rest of way? I have a vice, but it's a portable one that clamps onto my kitchen counter so not the strongest.  

 

Yes, you have to drive the shaft into the hosel or it won't bottom with those clubs.

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7 hours ago, Nessism said:

Yes, you have to drive the shaft into the hosel or it won't bottom with those clubs.

Yep, took it out onto the streets of brooklyn last night got it done! 

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2 hours ago, eedub said:

Yep, took it out onto the streets of brooklyn last night got it done! 

You can also go to the local hardware store and get a steel plate that is about 1/4" thick and 8"x8". Pound the butt of the shaft on the plate will seat the shaft.

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  • 2 months later...
On 4/22/2021 at 5:49 PM, eedub said:

hoping to revive this thread as i'm reshafting my i210 7 iron.

 

i'm very much a new "club builder" with limited supplies, i also live in NYC so you can imagine the space i'm working with.

 

I measured the hosel depth by using a dril bit, then marking depth on shaft with sharpie. when dry-fitting, looks like i'm about 1/4 inch short. From what i've read above this seems to be common- how does one "jam" the shaft rest of way? I have a vice, but it's a portable one that clamps onto my kitchen counter so not the strongest.  

 

I use a big ole rubber mallet to smack the head onto the shaft all the way

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Anyone know the reasoning why Ping does narrow the bottom part of the hosel?  Most other manufacturers don't do that and their clubs seem to work fine.  Any reason why one couldn't just bore out that bottom notch to make it more uniform?  Like just grab a .355 boring bit and go to town??

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On 3/14/2019 at 3:46 AM, Oknows said:

Anyone have a ferrule suggestion?

https://www.golfworks.com/ping-anser-i-20-355-iron-ferrules/p/bb9047/

I used these on a set of i200s. You cannot find the exact ferrules used by Ping for some reason; maybe having non-standard ferrules is a give-away that the clubs were re-shafted. 

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