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Glass Shafting Beads


MrGoobers

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Building my first couple sets of irons and have one iron head/shaft pairing that does not have a very snug dry fit in the hosel. I double checked the hosel and shaft diameters via online specs and we should be good there.

 

My question is about shafting beads. I bought a jar along with the epoxy. I have a couple of questions:

1. The dry fit is a little loose but nothing that I think epoxy can't take care of. Shafting beads are marketed as a way to make sure the shaft is centered in the hosel. Any truth to that in your experiences? And does it make a difference that would warrant the beads?

 

2. Beads (or at least these ones) are also marketed as a way to strengthen the epoxy bond. I read the opposite in an old post here. Any other thoughts there?

 

3. Lastly, the instructions on the beads say to add 2% of the volume of the epoxy. I have no idea how to do that. I have a kitchen scale but, because i'm going to be mixing epoxy per club (based on what I've read), I don't this kitchen scale has the precision needed. Do they effectively mean a pinch into the epoxy mix for a single club?

 

 

Basically, should I use beads? And if so, how the hell do I know how much to use?

 

Thanks Guys.

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Building my first couple sets of irons and have one iron head/shaft pairing that does not have a very snug dry fit in the hosel. I double checked the hosel and shaft diameters via online specs and we should be good there.

 

My question is about shafting beads. I bought a jar along with the epoxy. I have a couple of questions:

1. The dry fit is a little loose but nothing that I think epoxy can't take care of. Shafting beads are marketed as a way to make sure the shaft is centered in the hosel. Any truth to that in your experiences? And does it make a difference that would warrant the beads?

 

2. Beads (or at least these ones) are also marketed as a way to strengthen the epoxy bond. I read the opposite in an old post here. Any other thoughts there?

 

3. Lastly, the instructions on the beads say to add 2% of the volume of the epoxy. I have no idea how to do that. I have a kitchen scale but, because i'm going to be mixing epoxy per club (based on what I've read), I don't this kitchen scale has the precision needed. Do they effectively mean a pinch into the epoxy mix for a single club?

 

 

 

Basically, should I use beads? And if so, how the hell do I know how much to use?

 

Thanks Guys.

I’m not a certified club repaiman. But I’ve done a lot of work for myself and a few friends. Here’s my understanding about your questions.

First, though you checked online specs for your components, manufacturing tolerances can cause some issues.

1.I only use shafting beads on graphite shafts. The idea is to help center the shaft in the hosel and prevent a stress riser. Anything more loose would require a shim.

2.Beads do not strengthen the epoxy bond. But properly used with an appropriate shafting epoxy and the bond will be more than strong enough.

3.If you have no way to measure the volume of epoxy you are using then do the following, it’s the way I do it and I’ve never had an issue. Make sure the inside of the hosel and shaft tip are properly prepped. First, give the inside of the hosel a light coat of epoxy, then coat the portion of the tip that will be inserted with a light coat of epoxy. Sprinkle a thin layer of shafting beads on a piece of paper. Ligthly roll the epoxy coated tip in the shafting beads so a uniform coat of beads is formed. Insert the shaft with a twisting motion until the shaft bottoms out in the hosel. Wipe off any excess epoxy that is squeezed out and set upright to cure.

I also like to use a small heat source to decrease the cure time of the epoxy. This also strenghtens the epoxy bond. This is not required but is helpful. There are several different ways to apply a little heat while curing. You can check them out via Google.

Probably others will chime in to tell me how wrong I am about all of this but this is how I’ve done it for about 15 years and I’ve never had a bond fail.

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Glass shafting beads are .002" in diameter (at least the ones sold by Mitchell). That's 0.05mm for metric users. If you think that is going to center your shaft in the hosel, I've got a friend in Nigeria that is looking to talk to you about finances.

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I usually mix enough epoxy for 4 or 5 clubs then add whatever beads I can fit on the end of a clean wooden stirring stick. I think its definitely one of those less is more things. Adding a little bit will get you what you need, but too much will weaken the mix and wont gain you anything. It's not like the .002 beads stack on top of each other so you dont really need much, and more isn't really better.

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From Brampton, they have a good reputation for their epoxy/adhesives: https://bramptontech...shafting-beads/

 

Yes, they sell beads, but they also have an epoxy/adhesive reputation to uphold. They have studied this like any company selling a good product. I trust them.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
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From Brampton, they have a good reputation for their epoxy/adhesives: https://bramptontech...shafting-beads/

 

Yes, they sell beads, but they also have an epoxy/adhesive reputation to uphold. They have studied this like any company selling a good product. I trust them.

 

I'd love to see their testing data showing how adding beads increases strength. Sounds like snakeoil to me. And FWIW, I did some lap shear strength testing and proved that beads reduce strength.

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From some brief searches, there seem to be a lot of research studies on the subject. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00914037208082114

 

Do you think they would risk a reputation on snake oil. I am amazed how many people refute good engineering based on a "gut feel".

 

I just think I would trust someone with engineering experience and testing over a DIYer working in their garage or basement, and no data.

 

But I am an engineer.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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From some brief searches, there seem to be a lot of research studies on the subject. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00914037208082114

 

Do you think they would risk a reputation on snake oil. I am amazed how many people refute good engineering based on a "gut feel".

 

I just think I would trust some one with engineering experience and testing over a DIYer working in their garage or basement.

 

But I am an engineer.

Adhesion of the matrix to the glass beads was only important when the polymer was ductile. Improved adhesion permitted the beads to constrain polymer flow and decrease the fracture energy. Poor adhesion permitted flow around the beads which required additional energy for crack propagation. At low temperatures, where the matrix was brittle, the additional constraints caused by adhesion appeared to make little difference.

 

^ Seems to be the key paragraph from the study. To me that reads that beads make little difference.

 

I always add just a little bit to my epoxy mixture for centering purposes, but I'll admit I do it more for the novelty of it because there's no way to ensure the beads are coating either surface evenly or homogeneously. I really don't think it makes a difference. I've also never had a graphite shaft break on me or have any failures from using just a small amount in all my clubs.

 

 

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That's just one study. There seems to be a bunch out there. My point is that I'd bet that Brampton has read a few and likely consulted with some researchers and discussed it with their epoxy MFG. They know what they are doing! I trust this over some guy in his garage or basement that had one bad result from using glass beads (myself included), and then concluding that adding beads is the worst thing ever.

 

I do realize that I used too much at the time, (or at least I think so, it could have been prep or a number of issues, but I dont have any data). Knew it when I did. I still use them, but I use a tiny amount.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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From some brief searches, there seem to be a lot of research studies on the subject. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00914037208082114

 

Do you think they would risk a reputation on snake oil. I am amazed how many people refute good engineering based on a "gut feel".

 

I just think I would trust someone with engineering experience and testing over a DIYer working in their garage or basement, and no data.

 

But I am an engineer.

 

I'm an engineer too and the lap shear strength testing I did was not "in my garage or basement", it was done using a certified tensile strength testing machine where I work at an aerospace component supplier. http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry15487028

 

In a nutshell shafting beads reduced the lap shear strength by 15%. This was done at a normal temperature, not hot or cold.

 

Everyone is free to do what they want but personally I never use shafting beads. To me the only thing it accomplishes is to increase viscosity and reduce sagging, which could be useful in truth. In fact, in my experience that Bramptons 20-20 is thin and runny and adding beads may actually help by keep it in place.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Glass shafting beads are .002" in diameter (at least the ones sold by Mitchell). That's 0.05mm for metric users. If you think that is going to center your shaft in the hosel, I've got a friend in Nigeria that is looking to talk to you about finances.

 

Not sure I understand. A typical sheet of copier paper is about 0.003" thick. If you take a sheet of paper and wrap it around a shaft, that'll add 0.006 to the diameter, and almost certainly will not allow a typical shaft to be inserted into most hosels unless the fit was very loose to begin with. 0.002 beads are 2/3rds the thickness, in other words a pretty significant percentage. Why wouldn't a reasonably even distribution of shaft beads, which would add a minimum of 0.004" have some effect of centering a shaft within a hosel?

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From some brief searches, there seem to be a lot of research studies on the subject. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00914037208082114

 

Do you think they would risk a reputation on snake oil. I am amazed how many people refute good engineering based on a "gut feel".

 

I just think I would trust someone with engineering experience and testing over a DIYer working in their garage or basement, and no data.

 

But I am an engineer.

 

I'm an engineer too and the lap shear strength testing I did was not "in my garage or basement", it was done using a certified tensile strength testing machine where I work at an aerospace component supplier. http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry15487028

 

In a nutshell shafting beads reduced the lap shear strength by 15%. This was done at a normal temperature, not hot or cold.

 

Everyone is free to do what they want but personally I never use shafting beads. To me the only thing it accomplishes is to increase viscosity and reduce sagging, which could be useful in truth. In fact, in my experience that Bramptons 20-20 is thin and runny and adding beads may actually help by keep it in place.

You should present your data to Brampton and see what they say?

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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Glass shafting beads are .002" in diameter (at least the ones sold by Mitchell). That's 0.05mm for metric users. If you think that is going to center your shaft in the hosel, I've got a friend in Nigeria that is looking to talk to you about finances.

 

Not sure I understand. A typical sheet of copier paper is about 0.003" thick. If you take a sheet of paper and wrap it around a shaft, that'll add 0.006 to the diameter, and almost certainly will not allow a typical shaft to be inserted into most hosels unless the fit was very loose to begin with. 0.002 beads are 2/3rds the thickness, in other words a pretty significant percentage. Why wouldn't a reasonably even distribution of shaft beads, which would add a minimum of 0.004" have some effect of centering a shaft within a hosel?

 

I'm with you. It would seem that having .002 on either side of the shaft would be better at keeping a minimum epoxy layer on all surfaces. It may weaken the mix slightly but I would rather do that than have the shaft off center even slightly. Would really have to mess up mixing or use too many beads to have a failure.

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Srixon Z545 5-AW (SF i110 stiff)
RTX 3.0 - 54 and 58 (SF i125 stiff)
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Glass shafting beads are .002" in diameter (at least the ones sold by Mitchell). That's 0.05mm for metric users. If you think that is going to center your shaft in the hosel, I've got a friend in Nigeria that is looking to talk to you about finances.

 

Not sure I understand. A typical sheet of copier paper is about 0.003" thick. If you take a sheet of paper and wrap it around a shaft, that'll add 0.006 to the diameter, and almost certainly will not allow a typical shaft to be inserted into most hosels unless the fit was very loose to begin with. 0.002 beads are 2/3rds the thickness, in other words a pretty significant percentage. Why wouldn't a reasonably even distribution of shaft beads, which would add a minimum of 0.004" have some effect of centering a shaft within a hosel?

My contention is that if you have a poor fit, use something that is more effective and larger. I personally will use something like Quik Center which is significantly larger and does a far better job. One of the major drawbacks with microspheres is that they are very small (and translucent) and people add too much to the epoxy since they can’t see it and still are getting a cocked shaft.

 

My preference is to use nothing, but I’m not always working from with fresh components and have to deal with others prior mistakes.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

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From some brief searches, there seem to be a lot of research studies on the subject. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00914037208082114

 

Do you think they would risk a reputation on snake oil. I am amazed how many people refute good engineering based on a "gut feel".

 

I just think I would trust someone with engineering experience and testing over a DIYer working in their garage or basement, and no data.

 

But I am an engineer.

 

I'm an engineer too and the lap shear strength testing I did was not "in my garage or basement", it was done using a certified tensile strength testing machine where I work at an aerospace component supplier. http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry15487028

 

In a nutshell shafting beads reduced the lap shear strength by 15%. This was done at a normal temperature, not hot or cold.

 

Everyone is free to do what they want but personally I never use shafting beads. To me the only thing it accomplishes is to increase viscosity and reduce sagging, which could be useful in truth. In fact, in my experience that Bramptons 20-20 is thin and runny and adding beads may actually help by keep it in place.

You should present your data to Brampton and see what they say?

 

I'm glad you're referencing Brampton in particular. It is their Epoxy and, thus, their recommendation for their beads that convinced me to buy them. Sounds like I'm not making a disastrous decision either way and at worst got caught up in their $5 upsell strategy. Still sounds like something I should have in the shop for when I start working with graphite.

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From some brief searches, there seem to be a lot of research studies on the subject. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00914037208082114

 

Do you think they would risk a reputation on snake oil. I am amazed how many people refute good engineering based on a "gut feel".

 

I just think I would trust someone with engineering experience and testing over a DIYer working in their garage or basement, and no data.

 

But I am an engineer.

 

I'm an engineer too and the lap shear strength testing I did was not "in my garage or basement", it was done using a certified tensile strength testing machine where I work at an aerospace component supplier. http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry15487028

 

In a nutshell shafting beads reduced the lap shear strength by 15%. This was done at a normal temperature, not hot or cold.

 

Everyone is free to do what they want but personally I never use shafting beads. To me the only thing it accomplishes is to increase viscosity and reduce sagging, which could be useful in truth. In fact, in my experience that Bramptons 20-20 is thin and runny and adding beads may actually help by keep it in place.

You should present your data to Brampton and see what they say?

 

I'm glad you're referencing Brampton in particular. It is their Epoxy and, thus, their recommendation for their beads that convinced me to buy them. Sounds like I'm not making a disastrous decision either way and at worst got caught up in their $5 upsell strategy. Still sounds like something I should have in the shop for when I start working with graphite.

 

If you are using the proper collared ferrules you should not need glass beads for centering. The collars and ferrules do that.

 

If the tips are the problem and seem loose on Taper tip shafts give them all a little trim. Nip off an 1/8 of an inch on a chop saw or belt sander. Tighten them right up.

 

And no...trimming them 1/8 inch will not change flex.

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Sounds like I'm not making a disastrous decision either way and at worst got caught up in their $5 upsell strategy.

 

Correct - as long as you stick to the recommendation of how much to add. Adding in too much to the mix is where/when any problems will usually occur.

 

Still sounds like something I should have in the shop for when I start working with graphite.

 

Graphite isn't any more needing of the shafting beads than steel. In fact with a proper tip prep, it's less likely to need it on a graphite shaft. Composite shaft tips usually start out larger than the spec size due to the finishing and painting process. So it's both easier and much more likely that you'll be able to bring the tip size down to an extremely good fit with the hosel - despite any variations in the hosel diameter from the manufacturing process. With steel shaft tips, you're stuck with two separate manufacturing tolerance variations that may or may not match and more likely to have a poor fit (and only with taper tip shafts do you have a chance to fix the mis-match).

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Had a good talk with one of our material experts from work today, and I asked him specifically about this subject. First thing he questioned is whether we are talking about hollow spheres (often denoted micro balloons) or solid glass? I'm pretty sure the stuff Golfworks sells is hollow because it's so light. Glass particles are much heavier. On the Bramptons website they make specific reference to "glass oxide granules" which are (presumably) not hollow. I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt anyway. My expert friend said that the main thing that fillers do is keep the surface apart and allow the proper thickness of epoxy to be present in the joint. He said that a thick layer of epoxy isn't a problem for the most part but you don't want too tight because the epoxy thickness is too thin to bond effectively. Anyway, he confirmed that fillers reduce the strength, particularly the hollow type, but that unless too much is used it's not really a problem.

 

Edit: Checked the SDS on Golfworks website and their "shafting beads" are denoted Spheriglass solid glass spheres so my comment above is incorrect.

 

Edit 2: I asked my materials expert friend about Gorilla epoxy and he quickly rattled off the name of three companies that supply generic epoxy like that to most of the brand companies like "Gorilla" in the USA. He said it's pretty much the lowest form of epoxy but it should bond decently enough, but he wasn't enthusiastic about it's use when I asked about cases where the clubs were being stored in a car during summer heat. In that regard he said that while the temperature will cause epoxy to soften it won't damage the structure of the epoxy permanently, but it could affect the bond strength if the club is stressed at the elevated temperature. Higher grade epoxies have a higher glass transition phase thus they will survive the higher temperature better compared to these cheaper generic epoxy.

 

Last thing that was recommended is an elevated temperature cure as the final step in the bonding process. He said it's fine to allow room temperature cure but some heat will elevate the strength above that which room temperature cure can achieve. It also greatly speeds up the curing process.

 

All this said I still stand behind my testing data showing that the beads reduced strength by 15%. To my view there better be a reason to use beads, don't just add the filler as a matter of course.

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Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

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Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Edited my post above. I'm backing off on my vehement hate of "shafting beads" a little...but only a little.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

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Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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  • 2 months later...

I have always glued without shafting beads without any issues, but sometimes the dry fit have been sloppy and I was always worried about shaft centering.... Today I glued my first iron using beads,,, I only used a super tiny bit of them.... but the fit in the club head was so much better and it sat tight , so I guess I dont need to worry about the centering anymore.... Whats left to see is how good it will hold up.... as for now I say its the way tog go....

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I always use a small amount, and it guarantees at min a .002 gap between hosel and shaft which in my mind is a good thing.

Never had a problem.

Cobra LTD HZRDUS 75g 6.5 (Synergy Black 70TX tipped 1/2")
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> @TwoSheds said:

> I suspect that one of the shafts in my iron set is not centred properly, and is out by 0.002" because I didn't use shafting beads. :(

> Should I change the lie angle by 0.002" to compensate for it? Or should I modify my swing with that club to allow for it?

 

While I myself am not a proponent of shafting beads in any way, and putting the joking and sarcasm aside, your thought process is actually way off the mark. In the context of epoxy application, the concept of "centering the shaft" has nothing to do with the way the head is aligned with the shaft - it's about the shaft being aligned with the bore of the hosel is such a way that there is an even layer of epoxy over the full circumference and length of the shaft tip inserted. Uneven thicknesses - or really sections in which the epoxy layer is too thin - can compromise the strength of the glue joint.

 

Most epoxy is thick enough (viscosity) for that not to be an issue as long as one doesn't use too much pressure (e.g. the same way clamping too hard can 'starve' a glue joint in other applications).

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Thanks for clearing that up :smile: Much of what you said I was already aware of; my post was actually aimed at the people in this thread who are literally using beads specifically to get the shaft 'properly centred'.

On a serious note, with sufficiently viscous epoxy (and most likely without), it seems to me that shafting beads are solving a problem that doesn't really exist (in the context of their application to golf club assembly) . Why do I say that? Because at 0.002", they are most likely smaller than the manufacturing tolerances for how consistent a bore-hole's diameter is, across the entire depth of that hole (not to mention how geometrically correct that circular hole is versus the geometric accuracy of the circle of the shaft that will align to it). And the consequence of that, is that they could potentially create the 'issue' they are supposed to avoid, if you think about it.

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> @TwoSheds said:

> On a serious note, with sufficiently viscous epoxy (and most likely without), it seems to me that shafting beads are solving a problem that doesn't really exist (in the context of their application to golf club assembly) . Why do I say that? Because at 0.002", they are most likely smaller than the manufacturing tolerances for how consistent a bore-hole's diameter is, across the entire depth of that hole (not to mention how geometrically correct that circular hole is versus the geometric accuracy of the circle of the shaft that will align to it). And the consequence of that, is that they could potentially create the 'issue' they are supposed to avoid, if you think about it.

 

I agree with the sentiment - but if we want to get nit-picky, not really the logic behind it. As I said before, it's not about the specs or tolerances but rather the pressure used to apply the head and that exists while the glue is curing.

 

 

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      Thorbjorn Olesen - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Ben Silverman - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jesse Droemer - SoTX PGA Section POY - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      David Lipsky - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Martin Trainer - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Zac Blair - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jacob Bridgeman - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Trace Crowe - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jimmy Walker - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Daniel Berger - WITB(very mini) - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Chesson Hadley - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Callum McNeill - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Rhein Gibson - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Patrick Fishburn - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Peter Malnati - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Raul Pereda - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Gary Woodland WITB (New driver, iron shafts) – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Padraig Harrington WITB – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Tom Hoge's custom Cameron - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Piretti putters - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Ping putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Kevin Dougherty's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Bettinardi putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Erik Barnes testing an all-black Axis1 putter – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Tony Finau's new driver shaft – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
       
      • 7 replies
    • 2024 Valspar Championship WITB Photos (Thanks to bvmagic)- Discussion & Links to Photos
      This weeks WITB Pics are from member bvmagic (Brian). Brian's first event for WRX was in 2008 at Bayhill while in college. Thanks so much bv.
       
      Please put your comments or question on this thread. Links to all the threads are below...
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 31 replies
    • 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #3
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Matt (LFG) Every - WITB - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Sahith Theegala - WITB - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Cameron putters (and new "LD" grip) - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Bettinardi MB & CB irons - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Bettinardi API putter cover - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Swag API covers - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Golf Pride Reverse Taper grips - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 15 replies
    • 2024 Cognizant Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #1
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #2
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #3
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #4
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Brandt Snedeker - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Max Greyserman - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Eric Cole - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Carl Yuan - WITb - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Russell Henley - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Justin Sun - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alex Noren - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Shane Lowry - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Taylor Montgomery - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jake Knapp (KnappTime_ltd) - WITB - - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Super Stoke Pistol Lock 1.0 & 2.0 grips - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      LA Golf new insert putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Garsen Quad Tour 15 grip - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Swag covers - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jacob Bridgeman's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Ryo Hisatsune's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Chris Kirk - new black Callaway Apex CB irons and a few Odyssey putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alejandro Tosti's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
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      • 2 replies
    • 2024 Genesis Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #3
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Rory McIlroy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Sepp Straka - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Patrick Rodgers - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Brendon Todd - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Denny McCarthy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Corey Conners - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Chase Johnson - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tommy Fleetwood - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Matt Fitzpatrick - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Si Woo Kim - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Viktor Hovland - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Wyndham Clark - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Cam Davis - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Nick Taylor - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Ben Baller WITB update (New putter, driver, hybrid and shafts) – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Vortex Golf rangefinder - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Fujikura Ventus shaft - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods & TaylorMade "Sun Day Red" apparel launch event, product photos – 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods Sun Day Red golf shoes - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Aretera shafts - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Toulon putters - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods' new white "Sun Day Red" golf shoe prototypes – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      • 22 replies

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