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THE FADE


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Only in year 5. But in the first few years my driver was always a fade, and the irons I made good contact w were draws. I theorized that I should have a draw off the tee for more roll, and got there. Then decided to try playing a fade with irons so that it would stop easier on the greens.

It ruined my iron ballstriking for well over 6 mos. Just got back to not shanking an embarrassing amount, but I've got my iron fade. Although now the driver is a fade too, unless I really channel draw.

Not that happy with it ultimately. Not a huge distance player. Should have been happy to draw everything and just play for rollout. 6i went from 165 to 150ish.

Suspect path has become much more out to in. Hard to measure, but going backwards from flight to ballflight laws, what else could it be.

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Wipe is a fade where your face is very open to path and you hit a fade/slice that starts right and goes righter or a face that is squared to closed and you cut across it so badly that it starts left and slices right.

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Path is likely too much out-to-in. Resulting contact is more of a glancing blow to the ball. The better you can zero out path and face, youll get more distance and less curvature.

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TM Sim2 Titaniu, 13.5
TM RBZ 19* hybrid

TM RBZ 22* hybrid
Mizuno JPX 900 HM 5-PW
Vokey SM7 48* F Grind
Vokey SM7 54* F Grind
Vokey SM7 58* M Grind

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  • 1 year later...

Old topic, new post.  Been playing 45 years, played a draw for 44 of them.  Been trying to learn how to hit a fade for past several years with no success.  Always had a strong grip and tried to change that along messing with swing path, no worky.  Stumbled upon Paul Azinger about how his left grip was so strong (four knuckles showing), yet he hit a fade/cut by keeping his left hand knuckles up through impact.  Holy moly - I’m fading the ball now, sweet!

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Location:  Colorado Springs, CO
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While I prefer to hit fades...Draws come easy for me to hit and I dont have much issue controlling It. Try to fade the driver and longer irons and draw the shorter Irons mostly. Played today and had good results in high winds. 
I did move the ball back some in stance today... (had it WAY to forward and had poorish  glancing contact)  and found 10-15 yards of the driver  ( was witnessed and measured by my buddy)  and a few more with the irons. Goes to show how ball position and good contact help! I tend to want to move ball up to far to encourage a fade and high draw. Gonna have to work on it some 

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  • 1 month later...

The G400 max driver had made it easier for me to have fade options off the tee due to added spin vs the LST

 

My krytonite was (and still is at times) the old aim left for a butter cut and have it draw off that line = DEAD

 

Now I have two thoughts

 

Fades > steeper left shoulder going back and stay more on top of ball

Draw > shallower hand path going back

 

I may be mental but they work well for me and shaping tee balls has become fun again

 

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Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Blueboard HY 80x

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I've hit some of my longest drives with fades.  I cannot for the life of me fade my irons or 3 metal so at least I know all my approach shots are moving right to left.  Driver I draw 80% of the time so it's predictable.  If I do hit a fade with driver it's almost always by accident although I did start to notice awhile back that if I weaken my grip and rotate my hips faster on the down swing, I can get the ball to cut 10 yards max.  I think it's due to me naturally slightly opening up my left shoulder on the down swing when I really go after it.  However, I rarely find myself having to ever use that shot unless it's a hard dog leg right.  Of course I'm prone to the dreaded low duck hook on occasion if I don't get enough hip rotation on the way down. 

Edited by phizzy30
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