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removing epoxy from shaft tip


CircleC29

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Quite important or you can create an air lock and the shaft pushes out when you leave it to cure.

I use a Dremel and a small drill but to punch a hole in any blocks. most of the time the plug will fall out after that. If not there is still room for the air to escape when reshafting. It depends on what I am doing and how much I care about getting the plug out. Disclaimer: I don't do any work for anyone's clubs other than my own so it's my own consequence for "how much I care".

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I like to warm it up a little bit with a heat gun first, then either drill it out or sometimes just take a drywall screw- screw it in and pull the plug of epoxy out. But yes, it should definitely be done.

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you would half to remove the grip to get it out but while its still warm after pulling a head, use a cut off piece of a coat hanger and push it into the middle of the shaft, turn the shaft over and it falls right out

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[quote name='prestiege' timestamp='1428715290' post='11331321']
you would half to remove the grip to get it out but while its still warm after pulling a head, use a cut off piece of a coat hanger and push it into the middle of the shaft, turn the shaft over and it falls right out
[/quote]

I also use a flattened out coat hanger to push through the hole in the grip and down towards the tip. If you heat the shaft tip up you can usually remove stuff, including bits of old lead tip weights.

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With both shafts the heat applied to remove the head or shaft adapter will usually cause the epoxy in the shaft to swell a little and protrude out of the shaft. If this happens I will grab the protruded portion with a small pair on needle-nosed plyers and and gently slide it out, or use a small pick to pull it out.

When graphite shafts are hot the bonding agent used to build the shafts becomes pliable and irreparable damage can be done to the graphite fibers. One must be careful when shoving anything inside the tip when it is hot. If the epoxy does not protrude out, I allow the shaft to cool and then drill the epoxy out with a drill bit that is a little smaller in diameter than the tip opening.

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For steel, apply enough heat and the epoxy flows out of the tip. I like to abrade the circumference with my belt sand. I mean lightly, you don't want to remove the steel from the walls more than is necessary. As long as it rough it should be fine, even if a small amount of old epoxy is attached.

For graphite I use the edge of a razor knife to scrape it off. For the tip area I used a very small drill bit to drill through it. Let the graphite tip cool down.

If I am keeping the same grip, I use a drill bit through the hole in the grip butt. All you need is enough room for air to pass through the shaft and out the end of the grip when reinstalling it.

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[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428764521' post='11333855'] With both shafts the heat applied to remove the head or shaft adapter will usually cause the epoxy in the shaft to swell a little and protrude out of the shaft. If this happens I will grab the protruded portion with a small pair on needle-nosed plyers and and gently slide it out, or use a small pick to pull it out. When graphite shafts are hot the bonding agent used to build the shafts becomes pliable and irreparable damage can be done to the graphite fibers. One must be careful when shoving anything inside the tip when it is hot. If the epoxy does not protrude out, I allow the shaft to cool and then drill the epoxy out with a drill bit that is a little smaller in diameter than the tip opening. [/quote]

Thanks for the tips. What size drill bit is good to use?

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[quote name='jimb' timestamp='1428776947' post='11334735'] If I am keeping the same grip, I use a drill bit through the hole in the grip butt. All you need is enough room for air to pass through the shaft and out the end of the grip when reinstalling it. [/quote]

Drill through the butt end? Those must be some Looonng drill bits :derisive:

Or am I missing something here?

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[quote name='CircleC29' timestamp='1428784312' post='11335397']
[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428764521' post='11333855'] With both shafts the heat applied to remove the head or shaft adapter will usually cause the epoxy in the shaft to swell a little and protrude out of the shaft. If this happens I will grab the protruded portion with a small pair on needle-nosed plyers and and gently slide it out, or use a small pick to pull it out. When graphite shafts are hot the bonding agent used to build the shafts becomes pliable and irreparable damage can be done to the graphite fibers. One must be careful when shoving anything inside the tip when it is hot. If the epoxy does not protrude out, I allow the shaft to cool and then drill the epoxy out with a drill bit that is a little smaller in diameter than the tip opening. [/quote]

Thanks for the tips. What size drill bit is good to use?
[/quote]

I'm not sure, haha. I just grabbed a bit from my drill bit set that was a little smaller than the tip opening.

Some shafts have larger tip openings so its not really a "one size fits all" when it comes to selecting the drill bit.

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[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428798058' post='11336855'] [quote name='CircleC29' timestamp='1428784312' post='11335397'] [quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428764521' post='11333855'] With both shafts the heat applied to remove the head or shaft adapter will usually cause the epoxy in the shaft to swell a little and protrude out of the shaft. If this happens I will grab the protruded portion with a small pair on needle-nosed plyers and and gently slide it out, or use a small pick to pull it out. When graphite shafts are hot the bonding agent used to build the shafts becomes pliable and irreparable damage can be done to the graphite fibers. One must be careful when shoving anything inside the tip when it is hot. If the epoxy does not protrude out, I allow the shaft to cool and then drill the epoxy out with a drill bit that is a little smaller in diameter than the tip opening. [/quote] Thanks for the tips. What size drill bit is good to use? [/quote] I'm not sure, haha. I just grabbed a bit from my drill bit set that was a little smaller than the tip opening. Some shafts have larger tip openings so its not really a "one size fits all" when it comes to selecting the drill bit. [/quote]

What is everyone's thoughts on the drill fixture tools? Worth it or no? Do they work well? I would hate to screw up a nice shaft trying to freehand it. Thanks for all the replies.

[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Drill-Fixture.html"]http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Drill-Fixture.html[/url]

[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html"]http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html[/url]

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[quote name='CircleC29' timestamp='1428784674' post='11335447']
[quote name='jimb' timestamp='1428776947' post='11334735'] If I am keeping the same grip, I use a drill bit through the hole in the grip butt. All you need is enough room for air to pass through the shaft and out the end of the grip when reinstalling it. [/quote]

Drill through the butt end? Those must be some Looonng drill bits :derisive:

Or am I missing something here?
[/quote]

Yep your missing something. If a grip is properly installed in the first place there should be grip tape wrapped over the butt end of the shaft underneath the grip. The butt end of the grip has a small hole in it. I run a drill through the 1/16" of grip tape. You could actually push something through the hole like a finishing nail. That's just the way I do it.

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[quote name='jimb' timestamp='1428887693' post='11344105'] [quote name='CircleC29' timestamp='1428784674' post='11335447'] [quote name='jimb' timestamp='1428776947' post='11334735'] If I am keeping the same grip, I use a drill bit through the hole in the grip butt. All you need is enough room for air to pass through the shaft and out the end of the grip when reinstalling it. [/quote] Drill through the butt end? Those must be some Looonng drill bits :derisive: Or am I missing something here? [/quote] Yep your missing something. If a grip is properly installed in the first place there should be grip tape wrapped over the butt end of the shaft underneath the grip. The butt end of the grip has a small hole in it. I run a drill through the 1/16" of grip tape. You could actually push something through the hole like a finishing nail. That's just the way I do it. [/quote]

Ahhh, I see. Thanks for the explanation.

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[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html"]http://www.mitchellg...Bore-Chuck.html[/url]

That's the one I use- have never had a problem

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[quote name='sailfishchris' timestamp='1428891880' post='11344569']
[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html"]http://www.mitchellg...Bore-Chuck.html[/url]

That's the one I use- have never had a problem
[/quote]

Couldn't one just go to Sear, Lowes, or Home Depot and buy a drill chuch for $20 and a drill bit for less than $5 and save $25 plus the cost for shipping?

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I've stopped drilling into the tips of graphite shafts due to how susceptible they are to damage. I now prefer to sand all of the dried epoxy from the very tip of the shaft down to the actual shaft. Normally there is only a thin layer of epoxy on the very end holding the epoxy stuck inside the shaft tip. Once you've sanded it down, you should be able to poke it through with very little effort. You'll have to remove the grip in this scenario to get out the epoxy that is now inside the shaft. The only time I do not do this is if the epoxy expanded out enough to grab it with a pair of pliers.

It should go without saying, but let the shaft tip cool before trying to work on it, especially if the epoxy was of the very high strength variety.

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[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428892367' post='11344641']
[quote name='sailfishchris' timestamp='1428891880' post='11344569']
[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html"]http://www.mitchellg...Bore-Chuck.html[/url]

That's the one I use- have never had a problem
[/quote]

Couldn't one just go to Sear, Lowes, or Home Depot and buy a drill chuch for $20 and a drill bit for less than $5 and save $25 plus the cost for shipping?
[/quote]Don't use your logic on me! .......I was a Mitchell Partner I got it cheap LOL!

Titleist  TSi2 8.0 TPT 14.5 LKP LT LW 
Ping G400 14.5* TPT 15 LKP LT LW 

Ping i210 4-PW TT Elevate Tour X
Cleveland tour raw 52, 56, 60 DG x100
Byron Morgan- HG-DH89
Titleist PV1x
Jones Utility Trouper-Carry
Ogio Silencer Alphard E-wheels

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[quote name='sailfishchris' timestamp='1428957199' post='11350333']
[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428892367' post='11344641']
[quote name='sailfishchris' timestamp='1428891880' post='11344569']
[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html"]http://www.mitchellg...Bore-Chuck.html[/url]

That's the one I use- have never had a problem
[/quote]

Couldn't one just go to Sear, Lowes, or Home Depot and buy a drill chuch for $20 and a drill bit for less than $5 and save $25 plus the cost for shipping?
[/quote]Don't use your logic on me! .......I was a Mitchell Partner I got it cheap LOL!
[/quote]

:drinks:

PXG Black Ops 10.5* - Ventus Velocore Blue TR 6X

PXG Gen 5 0311 15* - Aldila Tour Blue 75X

PXG  Gen 5 0311 19* - Aldila Tour Blue 85X

PXG 0311T Gen 5 4-P - DG120 X100

Titleist Vokey SM9 50*, 56*, 60* - DGTI S400

PXG Bat Attack H

Chrome Soft/Vice Pro Lime
 

 

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[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1428892367' post='11344641'] [quote name='sailfishchris' timestamp='1428891880' post='11344569'] [url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/Graphite-Shaft-Tip-Bore-Chuck.html"]http://www.mitchellg...Bore-Chuck.html[/url] That's the one I use- have never had a problem [/quote] Couldn't one just go to Sear, Lowes, or Home Depot and buy a drill chuch for $20 and a drill bit for less than $5 and save $25 plus the cost for shipping? [/quote]

Thats a good idea, but I don't think the drill chuck would come with the piece that centers the drill bit.

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  • 4 years later...

Old thread, I know. I'm trying to stick a new adapter on a graphite driver shaft and I'm having a hell of a time. Ping adapter on a PX Hzrdus shaft. I've drilled out the epoxy as far as I can reach but there is still something in there, like 3 inches down. I'm scared to go to a longer(bigger) drill bit. I've resorted to trying to heat up a long piece of wire and burn a hole through it. Biggest pain in the a** yet. I've glued like 10 of these things on and this one is a total nightmare. I'm about to drill a hole through the bottom of the adapter.

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I was in a pinch and ended up having to buy this extra long drill bit as all the bits i had wouldn't reach. Amazed at how much epoxy some folks use when reshafting.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-5-16-in-x-18-in-Installer-Drill-Bit-BH2002T/204415278

 

Can't remember what size I picked up but it fits perfectly.

 

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I have been drilling out glue for 25yrs with no shaft issues. Also remove the tape on top of the shaft on other end some glue ends up inside the shaft at times. tip it upside down and tape it out. I drill it out when it is still hot

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It's kind of funny for me me to this this thread I started years ago pop up and think about how far I've come as a club builder. Still a novice at this hobby I love tho. Always more to learn!

There's a lot of good info here for those just starting and seasoned vets who are always willing to help.

 

 

Thanks everyone.

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I have the self-centering chuck from GolfWorks and it makes drilling out tips pretty foolproof. It comes with a short 1/8" drill bit but I found some Bosch 6" bits that work way better. The 5/32 bit (BL2637) fits the self-centering hole perfectly. If the grip is still on, the grip saver from GolfWorks stretches the grip out enough to get all the loose epoxy out.

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  • 3 years later...

Long bump here but I have to echo the confusion around anything having to do with the butt end of the shaft. Is the epoxy plug or build up not just in the distal (end) tip of the shaft near the head? I'm confused why someone posted a massively long drill bit and someone else was talking about entering through the grip hole??

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