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Iron type for controlling shots into the wind


eckmanjp

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How often do you play into the wind? Like others have said it’s better to optimize your clubs for normal conditions (no wind) and then adjust how you hit the ball to play for the situation. We all understand your frustration of not being able to execute a shot into the wind and getting punished. But that is just part of the game and having the shot versatile separates a good player from a great player.

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I think the head/shaft combo can make a huge difference of course along with how you deliver the club head into the ball. Take a look at the Titleist shaft chart and see what they are showing. FWIW though, the OP's current shaft should not be a high launch/high spin shaft.

I found both the 716 AP2 and CB to be tough to control spin with, but as suggested it was 100% my delivery at impact. I found the Srixon Z9xx series to spin less but the best thing I did was get to a quality teacher and we improved a pretty tiny swing flaw that had a big impact on spin.

Good luck. I can say I tried to "new club" my way through the spin problem but 3 lessons is what it took to fix it.

Driver- Titleist TsR2 with Graphite Design Tour AD

4w - Titleist Tsi2 with Tensei Raw Blue shaft

19 Hy - Titleist 818 H1 with Atmos Tour Spec

23 Hy - Titleist 818 with Graphite Design Tour AD-DI shaft

5i-PW - Bridgestone J15 CB with Recoil F4 110 shafts

50,54,and 58 Wilson Staff wedges with SF shafts

Ping Prime Tyne 4 PSD

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> @jj9000 said:

> > @DavePelz4 said:

> > > @jongalt55 said:

> > > > @"Jack Pearsall" said:

> > > > Everyone is a bit different, but for JP S300 are a pretty decently low launching shaft. Right or wrongly JP generally thinks in terms of shaft and swing techniques to lower ball flight, but you’re right that some heads are definitely higher/lower launching. Some balls are better in the wind also.( JP uses TP5x)

> > > > So JP tends to put the ball back in his stance some, take a lower lofted club than you’d normally use and use a loopy, softer swing to take spin off the ball and lower flight. It’s a shot that takes practice.

> > > > Totally did not answer ur question...

> > >

> > > Is this an entire post referring to yourself in the third person?

> >

> > You must be new to these parts. That's the legendary Jack Pearsall who only speaks of Jack Pearsall in the third person.

>

> The schtick ran its course and got old several years ago.

>

> Ignore feature needs to come back ASAP.

>

 

One of the great things about this site is there are some unique characters . They're not for everyone but I for one enjoy the stylings of JP. Also respect that he's not your thing so I hope you get your wish.

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Try using a lower spinning ball first

 

Messing with your set could be very expensive for minimal gain

Taylormade Stealth 2 Plus 7*........................Project X Smoke Green 60 TX
Taylormade Stealth Plus 13*.........................Fujikura Ventus Black 8X
Taylormade Stealth Plus 17*.........................Fujikura Ventus Black 9X

Srixon ZX Utility 3..........................................Fujikura Ventus Black 10TX
Srixon ZX Utility 4..........................................Dynamic Gold X7
Srixon ZX7 5-9...............................................Dynamic Gold X7
Cleveland Zipcore Raw 47, 53......................Dynamic Gold X7

Vokey Wedge Works V Grind 59..................Dynamic Gold S400
Yes! Ann.........................................................KBS GPS 120

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I agree with what most everyone else has said. Choke down, take extra club, etc. But I’ll also add that DG S300 are notorious for ballooning into the wind. I played them for years and finally switched to KBS Tour last year. Never had a problem with them ballooning. I also play at a links course so I see this shot often.

Callaway Epic SZ 9* GD Tour AD TP 6X
Titleist 915 Fd 15* Aldila Rogue Black 80 S
Titleist 909h 19* Aldila Voodoo S
Mizuno MP 18 4-6 SC 7-P MB KBS Tour 120 S
Titleist Vokey SM7 50*, 54*, 58*
Scotty Cameron California Monterey 1.5, Toulon Las Vegas H7

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> @"10&8" said:

>But I’ll also add that DG S300 are notorious for ballooning into the wind.

 

 

i thought it was just me. my ball would rise even with the slightest of headwind with the dg s300. i always wondered why that is, when so many people use it and its no where near touted as a spinny shaft. Ive hit an xp95 which is in fact a noodle, and i dont see the ballooning effect nearly as much.

 

TS3 9.5 / TSi2 15 / Z785 / SM7
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As many know technique varies. It's not so much the clubhead as it is the shaft. I often play in the wind. My 716CB clubheads play a role but minimal. Shaft profile and ball position are big contributors and how I penetrate wind. The shaft is C-Taper (high bend) and ball position is slightly back of center followed by an abbreviated (cut-off) follow-through, creating a stinger type punch shot. Length of follow-through makes it easy to manipulate distance and trajectory control.

  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo TR Blue 58S
  • TSR2 15° AD VF 74S
  • 718 T-MB 17° 2i Tensei AV White Am2 90S
  • T100 3i to 9i MMT 105S
  • T100 PW, SM9 F52/12, M58/8, PX Wedge 6.0 120S
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x
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I experience the same issues and thought the best way to go about solving balooning shots into the wind was to get fitted. I found out that the right club head and shaft can lower your spin rates, but the biggest factor is your dynamic loft at impact. I am a flipper and the fitter helped me understand that decreasing the dynamic loft will not only lower your ball flight, but decrease the spin rate.

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Technique is most important. But to answer the post’s questions, here are some clubs and shafts to consider: AP2-style player cavity irons are okay in the wind with the correct shaft. Ping I210, Mizuno MP-54 & AP2 are a few examples of good balance of spin, forgiveness, workability, feel, etc., for the single digit hcp. These irons vary tremendously when paired up with a certain shaft in terms of ball flight, feel, and spin. If you only played in Scottish weather on links courses, the low, penetrating ball flight may be the only must-have characteristic in a shaft. But b/c you likely need a range of shots, here are some shafts to consider testing to see if they help with your specific needs: Rifle 6.0 - lower launch, lower spin. Project X 6.0 LZ - higher launch, slightly more spin. DG S400 Tour Issue may lower your ball flight and spin compared to the DG S300. I’d try the S400 before considering the DG X100. Also KBS C Taper 120 stiff will produce a low spin, low ball flight. As an alternative - KBS C Taper Lite 115 stiff will produce more spin and a slightly higher launch. Hope this helps narrow down the options to test.

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Club up. HIt a 3/4 shot. Equipment wise I'd be looking at changing my ball to a lower spin ball before anything else. Not hard to find balls that spin several hundred rpm less off the approach but pretty much impossible to get an iron shaft to do the same and infinitely more expensive to find out if it does.

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Agree experiment with a few balls first and find a good windy day ball, and then its down to trial and error practice clubbing up a few clubs and hitting soft half swings , we have a short par 3 downhill into a bowl that when the wind gets up i go from a 8/9 iron to a 6iron and just half swing it in there

Enjoy the practice

 

D- Ping G410 SFT - Oban Iwasa 04 

3Wd - Ping G425 SFT - Ping Tour Stiff 

4# Srixon ZX5 Tour AD DI 95 Stiff

5+6# Srixon ZX5 - MMT 105 S

7-PW# Srixon ZX7 - MMT 105 S

50 - Vokey SM8

56 - TM MG3 Tiger Spec

P- Betti Queen B #12

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The course I usually play is at the end of a 15 mile wind tunnel, so we can get some properly gusty days, and for me the best change you can make is the ball - try an AVX, Tour B or RZN Black if you can find any, I find them much easier to control into the wind.

 

I'd also echo the technique suggestion. I used to be a flipper and had no end of issues playing into the wind, but have spent the last couple of years trying to eliminate that with some success - I still get the occasional jumper off the tee, but things are far improved now. It also worth watching Tommy Fleetwood for tips as well, his curtailed finish is perfect for wind play, but then as he grew up playing the Links around Liverpool I'd expect that :smile:

 

I also discovered last time I played that if I come up out of the shot too early and catch the ball a couple of grooves lower than usual, I get a cracking low penetrating flight that isn't bothered by the wind in the slightest. Not sure I'd advocate deliberately thinning it tho :lol:

The Dee Three - Titleist TS4 9.5 deg, EvenFlow White 6.5 65g, A1 Setting

Henrik - Titleist 917 F3 15 deg, Rogue Max 75x, B2 Setting

The Walking Stick - Titleist 818 H2 19 deg, Rogue Max 85x, B2 Setting

The Interloper - TaylorMade P770 3 iron, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5inch +1 deg loft

The Blades - Nike VR Pro 4 - AW, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5 inch

The Sand Iron - TaylorMade MG2 TW-12 Grind, 56 degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Flopper - TaylorMade MG2 TW-11 Grind, 60 Degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Putter - Nike Method 003 from The Oven

 

"Golf is only called golf as all the other four letter words have been taken"     - Leslie Nielsen

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"Well, on a normal shot, I pick a small target and try to make the best golf swing I can. But into the wind - and here's the key, the absolute key - into the wind - always remember this - I pick a small target and try to make the best golf swing I can."

-Tom Watson, when asked at a British Open presser why he was so good in the wind.

 

Your target is X yards away (and it almost always should be something other than the flagstick). The wind adds Y yards. Pull whatever club is X + Y and make a normal golf swing.

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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Play ball back, take less club and flight shots down with a softer/shorter swing for less spin.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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