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Last 6 major winners used 2 wedge setups. Time for a rule change?


SuperCarl

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I think I have probably tried every combination over the years. For me I seem to do best using 60 for everything 100yds and in and something 48-50 for 130ish and 54-56 around 115. With the lofts of most current pitching wedges I might could get by with a set PW 52,58-60 but the really sawed off 52 gets pretty dicey on firm greens.

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> @Bomber_11 said:

> I'm actually in the process of dropping from 4 wedges to 3. My Taylormade set ends at a 47* PW, and I currently play 52/56/60. The only problem w/ that is, on essentially every shot (especially inside ~30 yards) I'm stuck thinking, "do i want to hit a 52 that bumps and releases? or a 56 that hops a couple times and checks up? or a 60 up high that will plop down by the pin and back up a few inches?" so what i end up doing is putting an abbreviated "bump and run" swing on a 60 and i flop it about 2" onto the green.

>

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> Simpler is better. I'm going 47 - 53 - 60. 47 for 110-130 yard shots, 53 for everything inside of 110, and 60 for situations like playing from behind the green, flopping over a bunker, etc.

 

45* stock PW here. Last year I dropped from 45-51-56-60 to what I now carry as 45-53-59. Short game has improved immensely with the simplicity.

 

I hit my 59 full swing about 105, and will use it until I'm about 50 yards out. 50-10 I'm hitting my 45* (I like the RBladez sole better for pitching), and once I'm greenside I'm hitting my 53* for about 90% of shots. I can pitch it, I can bump it, I can flop it, and I can do that with complete comfort because I use it so much. Might pull out an 8-iron for certain bump and runs, or the occasional 59* for a big flop into a small landing area, but that 53* is my bread and butter.

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I usually carry two plus what is in my iron set. Current iron set (Ping I200) has the PW at 45, GW at 50. I have been using for eons a Ping MB 52 bent to 53. This is my bread and butter club from the fairway 110 yards to hort pitches. I also use this club to chip with for longer chips. I also carry a older Ping Eye 2 + L wedge (58). This is the model with the radius sole. That sole works great for me when I have to flop a shot or for high pitches and short chips (that sole allows me to even pick it off a green)! I don't hit the 58 much from the fairway but I find it works better than a 60 does for me on full shots as the 60 sometimes rides up the face.

Driver: PING G410 9 Tensei CK-Pro Raw Orange AV 65 Stiff

3 Wood: PING Rapture 13 Ping TFC 949 Stiff

5 Wood: PING G410 18 Fuji Atmos TS Black 7

Hybrid: PING G25 20, 23, 27 TCF 189H Stiff

Irons: PING Eye I25 6-PW CFS Stiff

Wedges: PING MB 52, 56, 60 CS-Lite Stiff

Putter: Bobby Grace ARSE Kicker

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I think the loft of your pitching wedge determines a lot. Playing only two wedges above a 44-46 degree PW requires making compromises (wide gaps or limited highest loft). that are probably not good for scoring for most folks. Two wedges above a 48* PW gets you to 58* with two 5* gaps, which is workable IMO.

Taylormade M5 9* w/Prolaunch Blue 45
Taylormade Stealth 3HL 16.5* w/Proforce V2 65 
Taylormade M2 5HL 21* w/Proforce V2 65
Adams Pro Mini Hybrids: 23*, 26* w/VS Proto 95
Srixon Zx65 Combo Irons (Z565 6, Z765 7-9, Z965 PW) w/TT AMT Black
Vokeys: SM7 52-12F, SM7 58-12D, WedgeWorks 60-10V (at 62-12), all w/Pro Modus3 115 Wedge
Odyssey DXF Doublewide
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> @JustChill said:

> AThompson_3 wrote:

>

>

>

> I think it's more due to fact that they are playing 7400 yards courses. They would rather have that extra club up top so they can have a few eagle chances per round because they know they can cover the distances they need pretty easily with a 2 wedge set up.

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> I agree. For me, I have no need for an extra club at the top of the bag. I have pretty consistent gaps all the way through the bag, and go 46-50-54-58 at the bottom

 

That's where I am at as well. Thought about 46-52-58, but had no use for another longer club. Sometimes I wonder why I carry the 3 wood. Maybe I should consider going to 12 clubs :smiley:

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> @stevopagolf said:

> > @JustChill said:

> > AThompson_3 wrote:

> >

> >

> >

> > I think it's more due to fact that they are playing 7400 yards courses. They would rather have that extra club up top so they can have a few eagle chances per round because they know they can cover the distances they need pretty easily with a 2 wedge set up.

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> > I agree. For me, I have no need for an extra club at the top of the bag. I have pretty consistent gaps all the way through the bag, and go 46-50-54-58 at the bottom

>

> That's where I am at as well. Thought about 46-52-58, but had no use for another longer club. Sometimes I wonder why I carry the 3 wood. Maybe I should consider going to 12 clubs :smiley:

 

I go back and forth with 4 or 3 wedges. Currently I'm carrying my bag and removed my 2 iron and play 46/52/58 instead of 46/50/55/60. 50 can be handy sometimes and mostly use 60 but having 12 clubs doesn't bother me at all.

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try minimalist, less than 10 clubs total and see what happens, my gap is 50* and can use this from 120 to about 10 yards, carry a 58 for sand shots actually shooting lower scores instead of worrying about which club to hit hard/soft

905t

steelhead xr heavenwood, 9 wood

eye2 becu

hoganardi baby ben currently

always hoing the next best thing

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> @g-off said:

> try minimalist, less than 10 clubs total and see what happens, my gap is 50* and can use this from 120 to about 10 yards, carry a 58 for sand shots actually shooting lower scores instead of worrying about which club to hit hard/soft

 

@g-off can you tell me a bit about your TK 58 what you expected, what you had previously? how it plays on full shots, short shots, turf interaction any pleasant surprises or anything else interesting? I'm very curious. Thanks if you can.

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> @DaveGoodrich said:

> I think the loft of your pitching wedge determines a lot. Playing only two wedges above a 44-46 degree PW requires making compromises (wide gaps or limited highest loft). that are probably not good for scoring for most folks. Two wedges above a 48* PW gets you to 58* with two 5* gaps, which is workable IMO.

 

I agree for the most part.

 

My PW is at 48* but go right to a 56* and 60* as I put more emphasis on versatility around the greens. My LW is high bounce and SW is medium bounce which allows me to play every course within our men’s league.

 

Most people put too much emphasis on even spaced gaps for their 4 wedges that they lose priority on what is most important to low scoring; always up and downs.

 

 

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@JAMH03 I had jdm vokeys 48 54 58 prior to the tk wedge. I went straight to the 58 when I started minimalist beginning of the year, I mainly use my 50 from about 115 and in so the 58 is almost strictly a sand wedge/lob if needed, I love the profile of the tk and imo the v sole cuts through everything with ease I have used it for full shots and it is surprisingly good, previous wedges always seemed to catch a bit higher on the face this thing is as good as they get, plenty of heads on the bay also> @JAMH03 said:

> > @g-off said:

> > try minimalist, less than 10 clubs total and see what happens, my gap is 50* and can use this from 120 to about 10 yards, carry a 58 for sand shots actually shooting lower scores instead of worrying about which club to hit hard/soft

>

> @g-off can you tell me a bit about your TK 58 what you expected, what you had previously? how it plays on full shots, short shots, turf interaction any pleasant surprises or anything else interesting? I'm very curious. Thanks if you can.

 

905t

steelhead xr heavenwood, 9 wood

eye2 becu

hoganardi baby ben currently

always hoing the next best thing

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I'm not even sure if a PW is counted, but I have different wedge setups for different sets -

 

for example, my M-CGB irons have a PW that is 43*. I typically play a 54/58 combo, so I add a 48* wedge because there's too much gap between 43* and 54*

 

On the other hand, with my Miura MC501's 46* PW, i run a 50/54/58 combination.

 

And if/when my TM P7TW irons ever show up, I'm likely to drop the 50 since the PW is already at 49* and just run the 54/58 combination and stick in an extra driving iron / hybrid / FW wood

Srixon Z785 w/ PX 6.0 HZRDUS yellow (S) shaft
Srizon F65 3w (15*) w/ stock Miyazaki Kaula (S)
Srixon Z U85 20* driving iron
Taylormade P7TW irons (3-PW) in S400 tour issue shafts
Taylormade Hi Toe 54 and 58 wedges
Bettinardi Studio Stock 8 putter

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We all hit a slew of approach shots from 125- to 165-yds. I have a multitude of irons in that range which simplify the task of hitting the green:

 

7i - 167

8i – 153

9i – 139

Pw – 125

 

But I also hit a ton of approaches from inside 125-yds, as well. These include short Par-3s, short & medium Par-4s and at least a couple of Par-5 holes per round (if not all of them!). It only makes sense to treat these approaches as even more important since they are (1) the best chance we have of securing a GIR and (2) our best chance at happening upon a birdie.

 

I give myself a series of stock numbers:

 

Gw – 110

Sw – 98

Lw – 84

 

I face TONS of approaches between my Lw and my 7i. These make up ~75% of the holes I play! We’re talking nearly every hole outside of a few situations where I might approach a Par-5 in two shots or where a hole is exceptionally long. I want as many stock swings as I can get in this range to maximize my GIR%.

 

Now, this is what works for me, but I have thought a lot about it, I have done a lot of testing and my distances are pretty common so there’s no reason why my line of thinking shouldn’t be adopted by more players who would benefit by hitting more greens and setting themselves up with more 10-footers for birdie!

 

I’m averaging 50% GIR on the season on a tough golf course (137 slope). The tees I play are 6,700-yds which isn’t particularly abnormal either. Last year I was hitting 5-6 GIR per round. I definitely had room for improvement. I know there a lot of folks here who are sitting in that same boat!

 

I just think it's worth saying that I attribute a lot of my improvement this year to moving into a setup of wedges that acts just like my 3 mid-irons (5/6/7) and my 3 short-irons (8/9/P).

 

I’m not looking to kick my 9-iron out of the bag in order to free up space. That would be stupid. So why kick out a wedge that goes a comfortable 12- or 14-yards more/less than the club next to it!?

 

If anything, the shorter shots are the more crucial because again, they are literally a golfer’s BEST chance to secure a much-needed GIR and possibly get it close. There’s just no reason to limit yourself in one of the most critical areas of golf--at least not when you're a handicap player who needs all the help they can get.

 

I’m an 8-handicap and this is just my opinion, but my wedges are far and away the best element of my game. I wouldn’t hesitate to put my wedge play up against any scratch player with money on the line. If I’m standing in the fairway with a wedge, I know I’m already on the green, but I’m licking my chops hoping to get it inside 10-ft. Not surprisingly, my chipping and pitching is probably the single BEST element of my game.

 

For the life of me, I don’t understand why these most crucial of shots would ever be neglected unless somebody was playing a 7,300-yd course with a multitude of longer shots.

 

So, for the pro’s I totally get it. But for the guys here?

 

Let's just say that I don't see how it's smart to put 20- or 25-yd gaps in between clubs that you're using for critical approaches. It's going to force more partial swings which, whether it seems so or not, are going to be harder.

 

Just because the pro's pull it off doesn't mean it's easy. ;)

 

If you're unsure of distances just take a few balls on the course late one evening and hit some shots. I did that and it took me all of about 30-minutes to figure out what my numbers were and what sort of gapping was appropriate.

 

As you can see by my numbers, I have no problem keeping my yardage gaps consistent with at least 12-yards between each wedge which makes them feel more or less just like a continuation of my mid- and short-irons.

TSR3 (9o) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6)
TSR2+ (14.5o 3w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

TSR2 (21o 7w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

zU85 (4-6) (UST Recoil)
Z-Forged (7-Gw) (Nippon Modus3)

SM9 56-F / 60-S
Maltby PTM-5CS

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Currently use 46 50 54 58. Only reason I'd ever take a wedge out of the bag is on very specific courses where I needed a long club to do a specific job. One example might be if I went to the UK to play a very windy links course and had to bring a low lofted driving iron for tee shots, but still keep my 3w and hybrid in the bag for approaches.

 

At that point I'd probably go 46 52 58 and use my 58 for all my shots inside 40-50 yards. That will make shots in that 50-70 yard range a bit tough for me based on my current wedge system. It would probably take a few hours of range work to start getting comfortable with those new shots.

 

 

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> @dlygrisse said:

> Guys, this is pretty simple.

>

>

>

> Pick the highest lofted club you like using around the greens, whether it is 56,58,60 whatever. Then fill the gap between that club and you highest lofted set club in 4-6 degree increments. Whether that is 2 wedges or 4 wedges it doesn't matter what it says on the bottom of the club. We are all different in our needs thats why they make lots of options.

 

I think this pretty much nails it. I've tried using a 60* many times. However, my natural "feel" for the shot doesn't translate to a 60* wedge. I always come up a little short in distance on all my chips and pitches. For me, my natural feel of how hard to hit all chips and pitches marries perfectly with a 58* wedge. The high flops to the low runners just land and go the right distance when I use a 58* compared to a 60*, so for me, a 58 is the highest I go.

 

Same thing is true on my PW. When using a 46* PW I would always go too far in my 1/2 and 3/4 shots, and my 50* would go too short, or my 52* would be very much unusable (for me) from those distances. I now play a weaker PW at 48* which works great. I've had to adjust my full swing distance to be a little shorter, but my "feel" on those 1/2 to 3/4 shot now marries up with the loft and I'm able to be much more accurate.

 

So with that, I have a 48* PW and a 58* LW, so to fill in I just split the difference with a 53* wedge.

 

I've tried so many variations and it all comes down to finding out which lofts work with your feel into and around the green. Pick those clubs that you're most accurate with and fill the rest in from there!

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Right now I have 5 wedges in my bag. 45-50-54-59-64. The 45 is my PW and the rest are sm2 Vokey's

Moving shortly to four: 45-50-56-62. I have chrome Vokey m-grinds in 50 and 56 and I love the look of the sm7 62 M grind

I like a lot of loft greenside and from deep traps (hence the 64*). Also, I can't give up my 50. I use it a lot into greens and around the greens for bump and runs. I tried to go 45-52-59 but just end up hitting way too many super soft shots with the PW

I've looked at 46* Vokey's but prefer the squarer lines of PW's

Right now I am thinking of scooping 8-PW in the Titleist MB's or the AP2's.

If I do the the AP2, I will grab the matching 50*, I like the lines

When I drop clubs for extra wedges I make it the 6 iron. I can just hit softer choked down shots with a 5i or 5h

Ping G400 LST 11* Ventus Black TR 5x

Ping G400 3w 15.1* GD AD IZ 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x 

Ping G425 4h 22* Blueboard HY 80x

Ping i210 6i & s55 7i - PW Steelfiber 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*ES, Tour W 64* SF 125s

EvnRoll ER9
 

 

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I found a nice 3-quarter swing that is super repeatable for me, regardless of the wedge in my hand. Goes 85yds with the 58*, 100yds with the 54*, 115yds with the 50*, and 130yds with the 46*. Those are the money distances for me, so the more wedges in my bag for that swing, the better.

Driver: PING G425 7.5*; X-stiff HZRDUS BLACK 75g

Driving Iron: TITLEIST U505 1i; X-stiff HZRDUS Smoke RDX 90g 

Irons: PING i210 3-4, PING BLUEPRINT 5-W; Dynamic Gold X7

Wedges: CLEVELAND RTX4 50, 54, 58; S400

Putter: ODYSSEY WHITE HOT #7 OG

Ball: BRIDGESTONE Tour B X

Grip: WINN Dri Tac Midsize

GHIN: Between my ears... (usually between 1-3)

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Don't know if it has been said. But you should pick and choose of how you attack the course. All the pros play to their strengths, many have that no go zone, that they wouldn't allow the ball to get hit there. Hence why some would emphasize gaping up the other end of the bag. There is no point adding another club for gaping for ranges around 60-80yrds if you're not hitting it there.

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As much as I've always loved Vokey wedges (from the old 200/400 series up through SM4/5/6/7) the last few years when I buy irons I just buy the whole range and have done with. I use SGI type irons with fairly lightweight shafts (100g, give or take) and don't practice much so the extremely different visuals and heft of a blade wedge with a 125g-130g shaft is just one more variable I can eliminate.

 

BTW, same idea applies at the top end. I don't really like a 21-degree hybrid any easier to hit and it doesn't offer a whole lot of extra distance compared to a 20 or 21 degree 4-iron. So I just get 4-LW and that usually gaps about 10 or 11 yards per club which works out fine.

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for years now I've been only a 2-wedge guy (excluding PW), I carry a 50-08 and 60-04. The 60* works for me anywhere from 100y and in, seldom do I need anything else. Punch it, pinch it, or flop it, majority of the time I'm putting it within 6' from around the greens and within 15' (hopefully) from further out. My 50 comes into play around 90-100y, a smooth 75% swing. Full swing puts my up to 125-130y where my PW easily takes over.

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> @"I.B. Golfin'" said:

> for years now I've been only a 2-wedge guy (excluding PW), I carry a 50-08 and 60-04. The 60* works for me anywhere from 100y and in, seldom do I need anything else. Punch it, pinch it, or flop it, majority of the time I'm putting it within 6' from around the greens and within 15' (hopefully) from further out. My 50 comes into play around 90-100y, a smooth 75% swing. Full swing puts my up to 125-130y where my PW easily takes over.

 

I have a "classic" set of Beryllium Copper Ping Eye2 irons that I pull out for a round or two a couple times a year. They are 4-9 irons and then the "W" is 50.5 degrees and the "S" is 57 degrees.

 

Like you I can just about get 100y out of the "W" but I really like that 75% swing that's more like 80 or 90. I use the "S" more for chipping/pitching/bunker shots and stick with the "W" for approaches.

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> @"North Butte" said:

> > @"I.B. Golfin'" said:

> > for years now I've been only a 2-wedge guy (excluding PW), I carry a 50-08 and 60-04. The 60* works for me anywhere from 100y and in, seldom do I need anything else. Punch it, pinch it, or flop it, majority of the time I'm putting it within 6' from around the greens and within 15' (hopefully) from further out. My 50 comes into play around 90-100y, a smooth 75% swing. Full swing puts my up to 125-130y where my PW easily takes over.

>

> I have a "classic" set of Beryllium Copper Ping Eye2 irons that I pull out for a round or two a couple times a year. They are 4-9 irons and then the "W" is 50.5 degrees and the "S" is 57 degrees.

>

> Like you I can just about get 100y out of the "W" but I really like that 75% swing that's more like 80 or 90. I use the "S" more for chipping/pitching/bunker shots and stick with the "W" for approaches.

 

It's my everyday set-up for the last 10+ years. I've fiddled with the 50, trying 52-56*, but found the precision I needed from 100-125 with the 50*. The 60 never changes, other than the periodic upgrade from SM6 to SM7. On a sidenote I also use Modus 130s (8i) shafts in both and have each weighted (tungsten powder) to around D8. I tinkered a lot, but the precision I feel on them is amazing.

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My 46 has been phenomenal this year. Fringe with lots of green to work with and I've been putting them tight. I find I use my 50 the least though... It's either a bump and run 46, or a high 54 that I want to release just a bit. When I want a high shot that I want to stop right away I go 58.

 

Going back I could definitely play a 48, 54 and 60 setup for a 3 wedge set (including PW obviously as the 48.) Would allow me to play a 3 iron or hybrid. There's a pretty big gap between my 4i and 2 UDI.

TSr2 10 Tensei Blue 65

TSr2 15 Tensei Blue 75

TSr2 21 Tensei Blue 75

Black T100.S 4-P LZ 6.0

Black SM9 48.10.F, 54.10.S, 62.08.M

Jet Set Newport 2 

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> @Chuck905 said:

> > @DaveGoodrich said:

> > I think the loft of your pitching wedge determines a lot. Playing only two wedges above a 44-46 degree PW requires making compromises (wide gaps or limited highest loft). that are probably not good for scoring for most folks. Two wedges above a 48* PW gets you to 58* with two 5* gaps, which is workable IMO.

>

> I agree for the most part.

>

> My PW is at 48* but go right to a 56* and 60* as I put more emphasis on versatility around the greens. My LW is high bounce and SW is medium bounce which allows me to play every course within our men’s league.

>

> Most people put too much emphasis on even spaced gaps for their 4 wedges that they lose priority on what is most important to low scoring; always up and downs.

>

>

 

My newest setup is my old combo set of Adams Pro Black MB's and CB1's. I bent the lofts to 5 degree gaps by bending the short irons weaker and the long irons stronger. So the 47* pitching wedge became 49* and the 52* gap wedge became 54*. Then I added a 58* Pugleilli wedge.

Taylormade M5 9* w/Prolaunch Blue 45
Taylormade Stealth 3HL 16.5* w/Proforce V2 65 
Taylormade M2 5HL 21* w/Proforce V2 65
Adams Pro Mini Hybrids: 23*, 26* w/VS Proto 95
Srixon Zx65 Combo Irons (Z565 6, Z765 7-9, Z965 PW) w/TT AMT Black
Vokeys: SM7 52-12F, SM7 58-12D, WedgeWorks 60-10V (at 62-12), all w/Pro Modus3 115 Wedge
Odyssey DXF Doublewide
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> @JAMH03 said:

> 2 wedges? Will definitely work for some . Though the odds are against it being the best solution for most.

>

> Fastest most economical way to improve might be:

>

> * Adopt Pelz's recommendations with your current 52º 56º 60º wedges

>

> * Work on 10:30 swing and 9:00 swings

>

>

> Resulting in 6 distances from approx 55-100 yards

>

> You'd have to read Pelz's Shortgame bible on chapter on how to hit distance wedges. It works. Then it would take you approximately 200 balls and you would be probably 1-2 strokes better per round.

>

> There's no getting around the fact that it takes some work to gain these skills but it doesn't have to be drudgery.

>

> HTH's

>

> mnuqwfmbszfh.png

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Interesting that Pelz's PW is 50°. Obviously that's a Gap wedge these days with most PW 44°-46°. Some are as low as 43° so that means at least 4 wedges but maybe 5 if you need a 47-48° Gap wedge before your 52° wedge!

Cobra King F9  Driver 10.5° Atmos Blue 6 stiff
17° Callaway X Hot 4 wood
20.5°& 23° Cleveland DST Launcher hybrids
Srixon ZX5 5 - PW Modus 105 Regular 

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 48°/9° & 52°/11°, RTX 3 58°/9°
Ping Anser Sigma 2 putter

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If someone plays a AW/GW that matches the iron set and plays 2 wedge type clubs does that count? Because it can then be argued that the AW/GW is an iron not a wedge. Then by this thinking there are people who play 0 wedges. Like those who have ping G400 irons all the way to LW. It’s a high lofted iron and not a wedge.

 

My experience is that it depends heavily on the irons I am playing. I find that I can get away with playing 2 wedges when I am playing bladed irons. That is because I feel more comfortable taking off distance from a blade style PW than a cavity back 46° PW. When playing a full Cavity club there’s just too much distance in between a PW and SW to drop the GW.

 

Side note: who are these 6 major winners that you are referring to? Yes Tiger plays 56/60. But his irons are bladed and PW lofted weaker. Brooks plays 3 wedges. Patrick reed plays 3 wedges.

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> @Woodrow said:

> I have a partner that uses a 3 wedge system -- and he isn't good with just one. Always takes the flop when he should bump an 8 iron. Sometimes we get caught with "its in my bag so I have to use it" syndrom. No you don't - get great with a 52 - then decide if you want another.

> -woody-

 

Not always true. A player in our men’s league uses his LW whenever possible and always sticks it to 5 feet.

 

My experience is that a GW is redundant around the greens when the PW does the same thing.

 

 

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> @kiwihacker said:

> > @JAMH03 said:

> > 2 wedges? Will definitely work for some . Though the odds are against it being the best solution for most.

> >

> > Fastest most economical way to improve might be:

> >

> > * Adopt Pelz's recommendations with your current 52º 56º 60º wedges

> >

> > * Work on 10:30 swing and 9:00 swings

> >

> >

> > Resulting in 6 distances from approx 55-100 yards

> >

> > You'd have to read Pelz's Shortgame bible on chapter on how to hit distance wedges. It works. Then it would take you approximately 200 balls and you would be probably 1-2 strokes better per round.

> >

> > There's no getting around the fact that it takes some work to gain these skills but it doesn't have to be drudgery.

> >

> > HTH's

> >

> > mnuqwfmbszfh.png

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

> Interesting that Pelz's PW is 50°. Obviously that's a Gap wedge these days with most PW 44°-46°. Some are as low as 43° so that means at least 4 wedges but maybe 5 if you need a 47-48° Gap wedge before your 52° wedge!

 

That's a really good point. @kiwihacker I think the 1st edition of the book was 1999 so that's 20 years previous if there's been any serious "loft creep" since then that might be making it worse.

 

One example is

My 9 iron 42º

PW is 48º

GW 52º

LW 60º

 

I don't carry a 56 to save a spot. Not sure Pelz would agree but I don't mind, sometimes I carry a 64º height of summer or especially fast greens.

 

DP I've found is right about most of his data and his "solutions" can be challenged. I just happened to pull this graphic from the web and changed it up for the OP.

 

Very good catch though thanks!

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