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Need iron shaft suggestions- butt stiff(ish) dynamic gold?/ softer butt px?


gibbyfan

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Hey Wrxers,

I’m stuck. I have a set of iron heads that I like, but the timing is off with them. I’ve tried a number of shafts in the past and just can’t dial in the right shaft with this set of heads. Presently, I’m using a hard stepped stiff super peening orange.

I can control the flight the ball lower and shape shots better with a softer butt section, but timing is slightly off. Conversely, with px I can launch the ball up in the air, timing is more consistent, but because of the stiffer butt section tend to block the shot more and struggle with functional spin.

 

Any suggestions? Just trying to get the timing down to be more consistent.

Driver: Tour Issue Epic Flash TD 10.5o w/ Fuji Ventus Black 6x 

5wd: Taylormade Sim2 SHAFT???    

Hybrid: 19Titleist 915 w/ Diamana 90 Stiff

Irons: 4Iron thru GW Titleist T100  Shaft????     

Wedges: Edel Wedges 54 & 58 Nippon Modus 125 

Putter: PXG Bat Attack Gen1

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> @gibbyfan said:

> Hey Wrxers,

> I’m stuck. I have a set of iron heads that I like, but the timing is off with them. I’ve tried a number of shafts in the past and just can’t dial in the right shaft with this set of heads. Presently, I’m using a hard stepped stiff super peening orange.

> I can control the flight the ball lower and shape shots better with a softer butt section, but timing is slightly off. Conversely, with px I can launch the ball up in the air, timing is more consistent, but because of the stiffer butt section tend to block the shot more and struggle with functional spin.

>

> Any suggestions? Just trying to get the timing down to be more consistent.

 

Timing is more about total weight and how that weight is distributed on the club, while flex is a feel factor and a trigger for how much power you are using. That means you will have to start by finding weight range (plus minus 5 grams as the max), then what head weight that gives that club the balance that works in your hands. Now its time to look on flex and profile, dont leave it all the the profile, its not the job the profile is meant to take care of (timing).

 

Your Super peening orange as S flex is 120 grams uncut, and is a good starting point since we can add lead tape to the shaft to simulate a higher shaft weight, but we cant remove weight, so try off if 5 or 10 grams added to the middle of the shaft makes it better or worse. Then move on and try to add a few grams to the heads. When total wgt /shaft wgt, and head weight is found, those shafts might be just right, and you can keep playing them with lead tape on the shaft, or you can move on to a shaft in the weight you found right.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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> @"Howard Jones" said:

> > @gibbyfan said:

> > Hey Wrxers,

> > I’m stuck. I have a set of iron heads that I like, but the timing is off with them. I’ve tried a number of shafts in the past and just can’t dial in the right shaft with this set of heads. Presently, I’m using a hard stepped stiff super peening orange.

> > I can control the flight the ball lower and shape shots better with a softer butt section, but timing is slightly off. Conversely, with px I can launch the ball up in the air, timing is more consistent, but because of the stiffer butt section tend to block the shot more and struggle with functional spin.

> >

> > Any suggestions? Just trying to get the timing down to be more consistent.

>

> Timing is more about total weight and how that weight is distributed on the club, while flex is a feel factor and a trigger for how much power you are using. That means you will have to start by finding weight range (plus minus 5 grams as the max), then what head weight that gives that club the balance that works in your hands. Now its time to look on flex and profile, dont leave it all the the profile, its not the job the profile is meant to take care of (timing).

>

> Your Super peening orange as S flex is 120 grams uncut, and is a good starting point since we can add lead tape to the shaft to simulate a higher shaft weight, but we cant remove weight, so try off if 5 or 10 grams added to the middle of the shaft makes it better or worse. Then move on and try to add a few grams to the heads. When total wgt /shaft wgt, and head weight is found, those shafts might be just right, and you can keep playing them with lead tape on the shaft, or you can move on to a shaft in the weight you found right.

 

Thank you Howard for commenting. At the start of the year I had this set built w/ the super peening HS and gripped with iomic standard built up to take the taper out of the grip ( thank you for your template). I played a few rounds and noticed the head felt really heavy. I had my instructor swingweigh my set and they were D7/8 @ 1/4 in over Titleist standards. I thought about adding butt weights to the shafts to attempt to counter balance the heavier head weights. After talking to my instructor we talked about just trying MCC midsized grips on the clubs. The additional weight of the grips functioned the same as adding the butt weight. After a few rounds and range session the timing is just slightly off. The shots are just a little thin. With the additional grip weight and rebalance of overall swing weight, I should try adding a little more weight to the heads to get a little more feel into the heads?

 

Driver: Tour Issue Epic Flash TD 10.5o w/ Fuji Ventus Black 6x 

5wd: Taylormade Sim2 SHAFT???    

Hybrid: 19Titleist 915 w/ Diamana 90 Stiff

Irons: 4Iron thru GW Titleist T100  Shaft????     

Wedges: Edel Wedges 54 & 58 Nippon Modus 125 

Putter: PXG Bat Attack Gen1

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> @gibbyfan said:

> > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > > @gibbyfan said:

> > > Hey Wrxers,

> > > I’m stuck. I have a set of iron heads that I like, but the timing is off with them. I’ve tried a number of shafts in the past and just can’t dial in the right shaft with this set of heads. Presently, I’m using a hard stepped stiff super peening orange.

> > > I can control the flight the ball lower and shape shots better with a softer butt section, but timing is slightly off. Conversely, with px I can launch the ball up in the air, timing is more consistent, but because of the stiffer butt section tend to block the shot more and struggle with functional spin.

> > >

> > > Any suggestions? Just trying to get the timing down to be more consistent.

> >

> > Timing is more about total weight and how that weight is distributed on the club, while flex is a feel factor and a trigger for how much power you are using. That means you will have to start by finding weight range (plus minus 5 grams as the max), then what head weight that gives that club the balance that works in your hands. Now its time to look on flex and profile, dont leave it all the the profile, its not the job the profile is meant to take care of (timing).

> >

> > Your Super peening orange as S flex is 120 grams uncut, and is a good starting point since we can add lead tape to the shaft to simulate a higher shaft weight, but we cant remove weight, so try off if 5 or 10 grams added to the middle of the shaft makes it better or worse. Then move on and try to add a few grams to the heads. When total wgt /shaft wgt, and head weight is found, those shafts might be just right, and you can keep playing them with lead tape on the shaft, or you can move on to a shaft in the weight you found right.

>

> Thank you Howard for commenting. At the start of the year I had this set built w/ the super peening HS and gripped with iomic standard built up to take the taper out of the grip ( thank you for your template). I played a few rounds and noticed the head felt really heavy. I had my instructor swingweigh my set and they were D7/8 @ 1/4 in over Titleist standards. I thought about adding butt weights to the shafts to attempt to counter balance the heavier head weights. After talking to my instructor we talked about just trying MCC midsized grips on the clubs. The additional weight of the grips functioned the same as adding the butt weight. After a few rounds and range session the timing is just slightly off. The shots are just a little thin. With the additional grip weight and rebalance of overall swing weight, I should try adding a little more weight to the heads to get a little more feel into the heads?

>

 

Counterweight on irons by using a heavy grip, lead tape or insert weight dont work quite like it does on a putter, its mostly a contribution to total weight, so its strange if heads felt to heavy before those grips was added, and to light after that, but like always, if heads feels to light, and total weight is still within reason, try to add some and see how that works.

SW numbers can be very misleading, and when we use a heavy grip, close to useless (just look at what happens if we use a Jumbomax above 120 grams). The key is to find the right TOTAL weight, and make sure FEEL of head weight AND shaft weight is right.

 

At the top of the swing, its SHAFT weight who delivers the feedback we need to know the angle the club has (before the top - flat on top - over the top) while head weight is what delivers resistance during transition, so its on those 2 we should distribute the total weight limit we have since it makes a huge difference if we add 10 grams grip weight, vs 7 grams extra shaft weight and 3 grams extra on the head.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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