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Want to increase trajectory - reshaft or go with a different head?


Audi A-Fore

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I'm a mid-flight hitter and looking to increase trajectory on my longer irons (5-6i), trying for ooking for consistent carry distance and better descent angle (mine currently seems too low). My gut tells me to go with different shafts, but I've also hit some GI irons as loaner clubs that make me think the heads might be the way to go too (granted, those may also have shafts that launch higher).

Some info:

* I play AP3's with KBS Tours (R+, 115g)

* 7i =150 carry

* 5 handi, but irons are less consistent then the rest of my game

 

Options I've been considering (open to more of course):

1. reshaft my AP3 5i w/ higher launching/similar shafts (KBS 90? 105? TT XP100? or ???)

2. find a AP1 5i w/ similar setup

3. TM790's w/ DG 105g shafts (my friend has an extra set, I need to compare them on the range)

4. put a hybrid in the bag that covers that carry yardage?

5. ???

 

Thoughts?

 

Audi A-Fore

Titleist TSR3 10* (D4), GD UB-6S

Cobra LTDx 15* HZRDUS Blue S (@ 16* )
TM M2 18*, Diamana S+ Blue 60 S
Titleist 816 21*, Tensei Blue S
Mizuno 223 Nippon Modus 105s (5-GW)

Titleist Vokey 54*
Titleist Vokey Gunblue 58* M Grind, 58* Low Bounce K
Scotty Cameron Studio Select Fastback 1.5 (2010), On the Bench: Scotty Cameron Phantom X 5.5 34"

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> @"Audi A-Fore" said:

> I'm a mid-flight hitter and looking to increase trajectory on my longer irons (5-6i), trying for ooking for consistent carry distance and better descent angle (mine currently seems too low). My gut tells me to go with different shafts, but I've also hit some GI irons as loaner clubs that make me think the heads might be the way to go too (granted, those may also have shafts that launch higher).

> Some info:

> * I play AP3's with KBS Tours (R+, 115g)

> * 7i =150 carry

> * 5 handi, but irons are less consistent then the rest of my game

>

> Options I've been considering (open to more of course):

> 1. reshaft my AP3 5i w/ higher launching/similar shafts (KBS 90? 105? TT XP100? or ???)

> 2. find a AP1 5i w/ similar setup

> 3. TM790's w/ DG 105g shafts (my friend has an extra set, I need to compare them on the range)

> 4. put a hybrid in the bag that covers that carry yardage?

> 5. ???

>

> Thoughts?

>

 

Try an AP1, bent a degree or two weak. Also, maybe with a KBS 105. The titleist/Nippon 105T shaft will provide a higher flight for sure. Try that as well. You might need a stiff in that shaft, as it will play softer than a KBS Tour R+. I played it in stiff until my early 60's, and back when my 7-iron was good for 150.

Unseen, in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing-glove.  P.G. Wodehouse
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Changing loft has the most direct affect on trajectory that any change can have.

 

Depending on the player's swing, changing shaft characteristics can have anywhere from a small effect on trajectory (high clubhead speed, lag maintained until very late) to no effect at all (low clubhead speed, no lag).

 

Get the loft correct first. Use shaft characteristics to optimize feel, clubhead speed, consistency and (for some golfers) fine tune dynamic loft at impact.

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> @larciel said:

> how much carry distance is one losing my upping loft?

 

Depends entirely on launch condition before and after the loft change. For instance, if I were hitting a 17-degree 2-iron (yikes!) I'm pretty sure upping the loft a couple degrees would add distance. OTOH, adding even a degree or two to a 60-degree wedge really reduces distance a lot.

 

But in any case, if you increase the loft of the clubhead by one degree (which will also increase spin slightly) the effect on distance is exactly the same as if you accomplish the same trajectory change with the shaft. The ball does not know how the clubface arrives at such-and-such an angle and speed. The best you can do with a shaft change is create a dynamic loft at impact that is slightly weaker. There's no other magic factor to cause the ball to fly higher just because of the shaft specs (given the same swing).

 

Of course you may find a different shaft lets you swing better and create better launch conditions, which is why people often find one shaft they really, really get good results with. Find the shaft that lets you make the best swing, then select the loft and clubhead that produces the best ball flight from that swing.

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> @FlyingLaw1 said:

> What @"North Butte" said. My JPX 900 Forged (C-Taper 120 S Hard stepped) were launching too low. My fitter bent them 2 degrees weak (7 iron went from 30 to 32) and that completely fixed it.

 

Did you bend all your clubs? I'm thinking of how this would effect gapping across the top end of my bag if I did just the 5 and 6i. I would think the increased launch may help with carry numbers (also @"North Butte" to reply).

Audi A-Fore

Titleist TSR3 10* (D4), GD UB-6S

Cobra LTDx 15* HZRDUS Blue S (@ 16* )
TM M2 18*, Diamana S+ Blue 60 S
Titleist 816 21*, Tensei Blue S
Mizuno 223 Nippon Modus 105s (5-GW)

Titleist Vokey 54*
Titleist Vokey Gunblue 58* M Grind, 58* Low Bounce K
Scotty Cameron Studio Select Fastback 1.5 (2010), On the Bench: Scotty Cameron Phantom X 5.5 34"

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> @"North Butte" said:

> Suggested reading

> [wishongolf.com/how-important-is-the-shaft-in-the-performance-of-golf-clubs/](http://wishongolf.com/how-important-is-the-shaft-in-the-performance-of-golf-clubs/ "wishongolf.com/how-important-is-the-shaft-in-the-performance-of-golf-clubs/")

 

Thanks. I know exactly what this is referring to. I can't hit a similar flex/weight Project X shaft in a club to save my life. I can pick up a DG S300/R300 shaft on any club and my dispersion immediately gets tighter (it's the shaft I learned to golf with and played for the first 2/3rds of the time I played). KBS Tour is closer in feel to DG and is what I use now, but put that PX in the club and I'm lost.

 

Audi A-Fore

Titleist TSR3 10* (D4), GD UB-6S

Cobra LTDx 15* HZRDUS Blue S (@ 16* )
TM M2 18*, Diamana S+ Blue 60 S
Titleist 816 21*, Tensei Blue S
Mizuno 223 Nippon Modus 105s (5-GW)

Titleist Vokey 54*
Titleist Vokey Gunblue 58* M Grind, 58* Low Bounce K
Scotty Cameron Studio Select Fastback 1.5 (2010), On the Bench: Scotty Cameron Phantom X 5.5 34"

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I agree with the comments about changing loft having a more direct impact than changing shafts (absent the shaft changing how you swing). Everyone's definition of "high" or "low" is different. However, I'm about your swing speed (carry a 36 degree 8-iron 150 yards) and honestly I think a 25 degree iron (AP3 5 iron loft) is the lowest loft I can reasonably hit well / high enough. Of course strike matters, but in some sense the low lofted irons (of any design) just need a lot of clubhead speed to be hit effectively. If higher trajectory and consistent carry distances are key, a hybrid may be the best way to go.

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> @agolf1 said:

> I agree with the comments about changing loft having a more direct impact than changing shafts (absent the shaft changing how you swing). Everyone's definition of "high" or "low" is different. However, I'm about your swing speed (carry a 36 degree 8-iron 150 yards) and honestly I think a 25 degree iron (AP3 5 iron loft) is the lowest loft I can reasonably hit well / high enough. Of course strike matters, but in some sense the low lofted irons (of any design) just need a lot of clubhead speed to be hit effectively. If higher trajectory and consistent carry distances are key, a hybrid may be the best way to go.

 

I’m similar in distance to you with my 8 iron and have absolutely no problem getting a power spec 19* 4 Iron into the air. Then again I tend to hit all my irons very high, rarely have a problem stopping any of them on a green.

 

 

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> @agolf1 said:

> I agree with the comments about changing loft having a more direct impact than changing shafts (absent the shaft changing how you swing). Everyone's definition of "high" or "low" is different. However, I'm about your swing speed (carry a 36 degree 8-iron 150 yards) and honestly I think a 25 degree iron (AP3 5 iron loft) is the lowest loft I can reasonably hit well / high enough. Of course strike matters, but in some sense the low lofted irons (of any design) just need a lot of clubhead speed to be hit effectively. If higher trajectory and consistent carry distances are key, a hybrid may be the best way to go.

 

Yep, I only go to a 5i. I use a 21 deg hybrid after that, but I use it for 2-3-4i shots depending how much i grip down on it. was thinking of tuning that down to a 20 and trying a ~23 degree hybrid for a higher launch option. Will give it a shot with a weaker bend first. Thanks!

 

Audi A-Fore

Titleist TSR3 10* (D4), GD UB-6S

Cobra LTDx 15* HZRDUS Blue S (@ 16* )
TM M2 18*, Diamana S+ Blue 60 S
Titleist 816 21*, Tensei Blue S
Mizuno 223 Nippon Modus 105s (5-GW)

Titleist Vokey 54*
Titleist Vokey Gunblue 58* M Grind, 58* Low Bounce K
Scotty Cameron Studio Select Fastback 1.5 (2010), On the Bench: Scotty Cameron Phantom X 5.5 34"

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> @"Audi A-Fore" said:

> > @agolf1 said:

> > I agree with the comments about changing loft having a more direct impact than changing shafts (absent the shaft changing how you swing). Everyone's definition of "high" or "low" is different. However, I'm about your swing speed (carry a 36 degree 8-iron 150 yards) and honestly I think a 25 degree iron (AP3 5 iron loft) is the lowest loft I can reasonably hit well / high enough. Of course strike matters, but in some sense the low lofted irons (of any design) just need a lot of clubhead speed to be hit effectively. If higher trajectory and consistent carry distances are key, a hybrid may be the best way to go.

>

> Yep, I only go to a 5i. I use a 21 deg hybrid after that, but I use it for 2-3-4i shots depending how much i grip down on it. was thinking of tuning that down to a 20 and trying a ~23 degree hybrid for a higher launch option. Will give it a shot with a weaker bend first. Thanks!

>

I had a 25 degree hybrid in the bag for a while and took it out. But I think there were some specifics of this club I didn't like. I would like to find a new set of 22-26 degree (or so) hybrids, as I think it's probably a better option for me when you consider all the different shots you face with this club. My biggest thing is the 5 iron can be very difficult to hit well if you don't have a near perfect lie in the rough. I think this is mostly a speed issue.

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> @Joelsim said:

> > @agolf1 said:

> > I agree with the comments about changing loft having a more direct impact than changing shafts (absent the shaft changing how you swing). Everyone's definition of "high" or "low" is different. However, I'm about your swing speed (carry a 36 degree 8-iron 150 yards) and honestly I think a 25 degree iron (AP3 5 iron loft) is the lowest loft I can reasonably hit well / high enough. Of course strike matters, but in some sense the low lofted irons (of any design) just need a lot of clubhead speed to be hit effectively. If higher trajectory and consistent carry distances are key, a hybrid may be the best way to go.

>

> I’m similar in distance to you with my 8 iron and have absolutely no problem getting a power spec 19* 4 Iron into the air. Then again I tend to hit all my irons very high, rarely have a problem stopping any of them on a green.

>

You are one of the lucky ones. With great strike it can be done and I've seen a few people at this distance level that just hit it very high.

 

On the other side, a typical LPGA bag for a player that drives it 250-260 yards and hits 7/8 iron from 150 yards often ends at a 24-28 degree iron. I think these players have the ability to hit a lower lofted iron but they generally favor the hybrids at that point. Everyone is different but probably a situation of "can hit" vs "best option to hit" for them.

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> @agolf1 said:

>

> On the other side, a typical LPGA bag for a player that drives it 250-260 yards and hits 7/8 iron from 150 yards often ends at a 24-28 degree iron. I think these players have the ability to hit a lower lofted iron but they generally favor the hybrids at that point. Everyone is different but probably a situation of "can hit" vs "best option to hit" for them.

 

I caddied at a Symetra Tour event (LPGA developmental) in 2017. Probably half the field carried a 3W or 4W, plus 3H **and** 4H as bridge clubs to numbered irons. These women were magicians with the hybrids... unbelievable some of the shots they pulled off.

 

As for @"Audi A-Fore" , consider going with lighter shafts. You might consider one of these:

* KBS Tour in R-flex: 5 grams lighter, and a half-flex softer.

* KBS Tour 105 in R-flex: 10 grams lighter, and a half-flex softer.

 

 

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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> @"Audi A-Fore" said:

> > @FlyingLaw1 said:

> > What @"North Butte" said. My JPX 900 Forged (C-Taper 120 S Hard stepped) were launching too low. My fitter bent them 2 degrees weak (7 iron went from 30 to 32) and that completely fixed it.

>

> Did you bend all your clubs? I'm thinking of how this would effect gapping across the top end of my bag if I did just the 5 and 6i. I would think the increased launch may help with carry numbers (also @"North Butte" to reply).

 

the GW stayed at 50. PW (which was bent strong--probably from use) ended up 1 degree weak. The 9-4 were bent 2 degrees weak.

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