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Glass Shafting Beads


MrGoobers

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> @firstbatch said:

> What about this product

> csgjoagrl0vq.jpeg

>

>

 

I have some of that but never used it. Would be for more extreme gaps than the glass beads I would believe.

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> @TwoSheds said:

> Thanks for clearing that up :smile: Much of what you said I was already aware of; my post was actually aimed at the people in this thread who are literally using beads specifically to get the shaft 'properly centred'.

> On a serious note, with sufficiently viscous epoxy (and most likely without), it seems to me that shafting beads are solving a problem that doesn't really exist (in the context of their application to golf club assembly) . Why do I say that? Because at 0.002", they are most likely smaller than the manufacturing tolerances for how consistent a bore-hole's diameter is, across the entire depth of that hole (not to mention how geometrically correct that circular hole is versus the geometric accuracy of the circle of the shaft that will align to it). And the consequence of that, is that they could potentially create the 'issue' they are supposed to avoid, if you think about it.

 

I could be wrong, but I dont see how beads could create an off center issue. Light coat inside the hosel, also on the shaft tip, and a couple rotations once the shaft is installed. Dont use beaded epoxy when sliding the ferrule on obviously.

If the bore is only .001 bigger than the shaft then I would be more worried about not enough epoxy, and would probably prep the tip a bit more, or ream the hosel to the proper size. Is there a min thinness spec for epoxy?

If the hosel is .004 bigger than the shaft well than it should center perfectly with beads, and probably without them as well.

If the hosel is say .010 bigger, and you feel obvious play in the shaft, then at least beads will help correct a bit of that, since the shaft will probably want to sit angled in the hosel when drying. A collared ferrule would help as well as long as the hosel has the right bevel.

Cobra LTD HZRDUS 75g 6.5 (Synergy Black 70TX tipped 1/2")
Ping 2014 Rapture 3W - Blueboard 73x5ct
Cobra F8 3 hybrid (HZRDUS Black 85 6.5)
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RTX 3.0 - 54 and 58 (SF i125 stiff)
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> @MrFlapjack said:

 

> I could be wrong, but I dont see how beads could create an off center issue. Light coat inside the hosel, also on the shaft tip, and a couple rotations once the shaft is installed. Dont use beaded epoxy when sliding the ferrule on obviously.

> If the bore is only .001 bigger than the shaft then I would be more worried about not enough epoxy, and would probably prep the tip a bit more, or ream the hosel to the proper size. Is there a min thinness spec for epoxy?

> If the hosel is .004 bigger than the shaft well than it should center perfectly with beads, and probably without them as well.

> If the hosel is say .010 bigger, and you feel obvious play in the shaft, then at least beads will help correct a bit of that, since the shaft will probably want to sit angled in the hosel when drying. A collared ferrule would help as well as long as the hosel has the right bevel.

 

I was referring to cases where the hosel minus shaft diameter is less than 2x the size of the beads. In that case, it would not be possible to fit beads all around the shaft, meaning that it must be off-centre. It's all theoretical nit-picking, though, as StuartG says...

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When I was assembling a good few years ago I always used a pinch of sandblast sand in the epoxy. Never did any harm. We did a lot of assembly for Hogan back in the day, they insisted we use fishing line in the hosel of each club, epoxy in the head, place a length of line in the hosel, push the shaft in and twist. This would twist the line around the shaft and center it in the bore. It was the Hogan way and nothing else would do....

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> @EricWGolf said:

> > @Nessism said:

> > Shafting beads and heat guns: the two most misused items in the workshop.

>

> @Nessism - - now I’m terrified that I’m misusing my heat gun. Please explain!

>

 

Many think that a heat gun is a better option for pulling graphite because the lower temps will help to prevent overheating (and thus damaging) the graphite shaft tip. In reality that viewpoint is completely false and use of lower heat actually increases the risk. How hot the shaft tip will get (and therefore the likelihood of potential damage) is much more a function of how much time is spent trying to heat up the epoxy - not the temperature applied. And since heat guns are very inefficient at transferring heat, they generally will take a LOT more time than when pulling with a torch - resulting in the shaft tip heating up way more than they would when a torch is used.

 

 

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> @BigBod said:

> When I was assembling a good few years ago I always used a pinch of sandblast sand in the epoxy. Never did any harm. We did a lot of assembly for Hogan back in the day, they insisted we use fishing line in the hosel of each club, epoxy in the head, place a length of line in the hosel, push the shaft in and twist. This would twist the line around the shaft and center it in the bore. It was the Hogan way and nothing else would do....

 

Centering the shaft in the bore is good and different companies use different methodologies. Many companies are using collared ferrules these days to center the shaft which is probably the best way. Mizuno used to, maybe still does, crimp the shaft so there is localized interference of the shaft in the hosel which keeps it centered and allows the club to be handled after shaft install. Fishing line is a novel approach. Personally, I use fiberglass drywall tape wrapped around the shaft tip if the fit is loose. It takes more time but I'd rather do this than put filler junk in the epoxy.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
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> @Nessism said:

> > @BigBod said:

> > When I was assembling a good few years ago I always used a pinch of sandblast sand in the epoxy. Never did any harm. We did a lot of assembly for Hogan back in the day, they insisted we use fishing line in the hosel of each club, epoxy in the head, place a length of line in the hosel, push the shaft in and twist. This would twist the line around the shaft and center it in the bore. It was the Hogan way and nothing else would do....

>

> Centering the shaft in the bore is good and different companies use different methodologies. Many companies are using collared ferrules these days to center the shaft which is probably the best way. Mizuno used to, maybe still does, crimp the shaft so there is localized interference of the shaft in the hosel which keeps it centered and allows the club to be handled after shaft install. Fishing line is a novel approach. Personally, I use fiberglass drywall tape wrapped around the shaft tip if the fit is loose. It takes more time but I'd rather do this than put filler junk in the epoxy.

 

We had 2 crimping machines that worked on compressed air and a foot pedal, one for .370" and one for .335" and once the epoxy was applied we would ram the head onto the shaft using bench mounted air guns...we had a production line of 15 people making clubs all day long!!! I never ever ever want to stand in front of a ferrule turning machine for 10 hours again! EVER!

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> @Nessism said:

> > @BigBod said:

> > When I was assembling a good few years ago I always used a pinch of sandblast sand in the epoxy. Never did any harm. We did a lot of assembly for Hogan back in the day, they insisted we use fishing line in the hosel of each club, epoxy in the head, place a length of line in the hosel, push the shaft in and twist. This would twist the line around the shaft and center it in the bore. It was the Hogan way and nothing else would do....

>

> Centering the shaft in the bore is good and different companies use different methodologies. Many companies are using collared ferrules these days to center the shaft which is probably the best way. Mizuno used to, maybe still does, crimp the shaft so there is localized interference of the shaft in the hosel which keeps it centered and allows the club to be handled after shaft install. Fishing line is a novel approach. Personally, I use fiberglass drywall tape wrapped around the shaft tip if the fit is loose. It takes more time but I'd rather do this than put filler junk in the epoxy.

 

Isn't the drywall tape "filler" as well?

Cobra LTD HZRDUS 75g 6.5 (Synergy Black 70TX tipped 1/2")
Ping 2014 Rapture 3W - Blueboard 73x5ct
Cobra F8 3 hybrid (HZRDUS Black 85 6.5)
4 Hybrid...
Srixon Z545 5-AW (SF i110 stiff)
RTX 3.0 - 54 and 58 (SF i125 stiff)
Ping Ketsch Mid 

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> @MrFlapjack said:

> > @Nessism said:

> > > @BigBod said:

> > > When I was assembling a good few years ago I always used a pinch of sandblast sand in the epoxy. Never did any harm. We did a lot of assembly for Hogan back in the day, they insisted we use fishing line in the hosel of each club, epoxy in the head, place a length of line in the hosel, push the shaft in and twist. This would twist the line around the shaft and center it in the bore. It was the Hogan way and nothing else would do....

> >

> > Centering the shaft in the bore is good and different companies use different methodologies. Many companies are using collared ferrules these days to center the shaft which is probably the best way. Mizuno used to, maybe still does, crimp the shaft so there is localized interference of the shaft in the hosel which keeps it centered and allows the club to be handled after shaft install. Fishing line is a novel approach. Personally, I use fiberglass drywall tape wrapped around the shaft tip if the fit is loose. It takes more time but I'd rather do this than put filler junk in the epoxy.

>

> Isn't the drywall tape "filler" as well?

 

I suppose, but I think a better way to think of it is as a spacer. Glass fibers should be stronger than granules of glass particles. Plus you can fine tune the fit by varying the number of glass wraps.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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> @Nessism said:

> > @MrFlapjack said:

> > > @Nessism said:

> > > > @BigBod said:

> > > > When I was assembling a good few years ago I always used a pinch of sandblast sand in the epoxy. Never did any harm. We did a lot of assembly for Hogan back in the day, they insisted we use fishing line in the hosel of each club, epoxy in the head, place a length of line in the hosel, push the shaft in and twist. This would twist the line around the shaft and center it in the bore. It was the Hogan way and nothing else would do....

> > >

> > > Centering the shaft in the bore is good and different companies use different methodologies. Many companies are using collared ferrules these days to center the shaft which is probably the best way. Mizuno used to, maybe still does, crimp the shaft so there is localized interference of the shaft in the hosel which keeps it centered and allows the club to be handled after shaft install. Fishing line is a novel approach. Personally, I use fiberglass drywall tape wrapped around the shaft tip if the fit is loose. It takes more time but I'd rather do this than put filler junk in the epoxy.

> >

> > Isn't the drywall tape "filler" as well?

>

> I suppose, but I think a better way to think of it is as a spacer. Glass fibers should be stronger than granules of glass particles. Plus you can fine tune the fit by varying the number of glass wraps.

 

I look at it as how well it fits into the epoxy matrix and how evenly it is spaced. With glass beads, you really don't know how the mixture is spaced in the hosel and you could easily have little to none in many areas and the shaft is centered poorly.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

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X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
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  • 1 month later...

I had seen this before, and didn't really focus on the fact that they use a polymer particles/bead already in the mix. It seems to reduce stress concentrations as one would do for a crack in a sheet of plastic, i.e. drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop if from spreading.

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Shafting beads only work if the size of the bead is equal to the size of the gap between the centered shaft and the hosel.

 

Go jump in a ball pit at McDonalds. Anything stopping you from walking around in it? No. The balls (beads) just move around you (the shaft). You are free to situate yourself right against the edge of the pit (the hosel).

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The beads are sized to be in the range of the typical small gaps you'd get between a typical hosel and a typical shaft where there is a slight bit of slop - e.g on the order of a few thousandths of an inch.

 

I don't think anybody is suggesting you could use beads to center a .335 wood shaft into a .370 iron hosel. Provided you really wanted to fill that sort of large gap , that'd be an application for a more substantial shim of metal, fiberglass or carbon fiber.

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> @wcbjr said:

> Shafting beads only work if the size of the bead is equal to the size of the gap between the centered shaft and the hosel.

>

> Go jump in a ball pit at McDonalds. Anything stopping you from walking around in it? No. The balls (beads) just move around you (the shaft). You are free to situate yourself right against the edge of the pit (the hosel).

 

That might be true IF the actual purpose of the beads really was to center the shaft, but it's not, so it isn't.

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> @Stuart_G said:

> > @wcbjr said:

> > Shafting beads only work if the size of the bead is equal to the size of the gap between the centered shaft and the hosel.

> >

> > Go jump in a ball pit at McDonalds. Anything stopping you from walking around in it? No. The balls (beads) just move around you (the shaft). You are free to situate yourself right against the edge of the pit (the hosel).

>

> That might be true IF the actual purpose of the beads really was to center the shaft, but it's not, so it isn't.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-glass-shafting-beads/p/gw0043/?country=US?country=US&gclid=Cj0KEQjw3PLnBRCpo8PCoaGM99MBEiQAppRuCz45xIifXQs9kYlzUyswEgQjn5at8qHQainSh8V5g38aAmdA8P8HAQ

 

"When assembling clubheads these real Glass Shafting Beads can ensure that the golf shaft will be properly centered in the hosel. Mix the Glass Shafting Beads directly into your epoxy mix. The 4 ounce jar provides enough shafting beads for use in hundreds of clubs."

 

But ok.

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> @wcbjr said:

> > @Stuart_G said:

> > > @wcbjr said:

> > > Shafting beads only work if the size of the bead is equal to the size of the gap between the centered shaft and the hosel.

> > >

> > > Go jump in a ball pit at McDonalds. Anything stopping you from walking around in it? No. The balls (beads) just move around you (the shaft). You are free to situate yourself right against the edge of the pit (the hosel).

> >

> > That might be true IF the actual purpose of the beads really was to center the shaft, but it's not, so it isn't.

>

> https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-glass-shafting-beads/p/gw0043/?country=US?country=US&gclid=Cj0KEQjw3PLnBRCpo8PCoaGM99MBEiQAppRuCz45xIifXQs9kYlzUyswEgQjn5at8qHQainSh8V5g38aAmdA8P8HAQ

>

> "When assembling clubheads these real Glass Shafting Beads can ensure that the golf shaft will be properly centered in the hosel. Mix the Glass Shafting Beads directly into your epoxy mix. The 4 ounce jar provides enough shafting beads for use in hundreds of clubs."

>

> But ok.

 

Common misconception - also one of the reasons this thread is as long as it is.

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Chiming in here with the hope that I don’t get roasted.

 

I’ve always reasoned that glass beads or sand/grit “contaminated” the epoxy. The contaminants creates voids in the epoxy thus making it weaker. The only way for the beads to add strength would be if they chemically bonded with the epoxy. In golf club application glass beads or grit can add strength to the application by wedging the gap between shaft and hosel. Short of the same reasoning why taper tip applications are thought to be stronger than parallel tip.

 

OP: it sounds like you are working with Ping product. Anything that requires collared ferrules won’t fit as well without them. I’ve worked with many woods of different manufacturers that required collared ferrules.

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> @"Big Ben" said:

> I have a question, does epoxy expand as it drys? Always wondered that...BB

 

Epoxy curing is an exothermic reaction. As it heats up, it expands a small amount. Any heat generated is usually absorbed by the cold hosel and you don't see anything squeeze out due to momentary expansion. If you speed up the cure process with heat, you sometimes can get a little come out of the top of the hosel if you have jammed a ton of epoxy into the hosel.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
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> @kiwii said:

> Chiming in here with the hope that I don’t get roasted.

>

> I’ve always reasoned that glass beads or sand/grit “contaminated” the epoxy. The contaminants creates voids in the epoxy thus making it weaker. The only way for the beads to add strength would be if they chemically bonded with the epoxy. In golf club application **_glass beads or grit can add strength to the application by wedging the gap between shaft and hosel_**. Short of the same reasoning why taper tip applications are thought to be stronger than parallel tip.

>

This is fundamentally wrong. There is no where near enough of a friction fit to add anything to the strength of the epoxy bond. If anything, it would reduce it since you are eliminating spots where epoxy can bond the two surfaces. Ping uses the friction fit (at least they used to) to allow them to send the club down the assembly line after gluing without waiting for the epoxy to cure. It has very little strength to it since it is such a small surface.

 

Microspheres have their place in the epoxy world, but you need to be adding specific amounts. Where golf people go wrong, is that they use WAY too much of the stuff and compromise the epoxy. Most are far better off to not even use it at all.

 

Taper tip differed from parallel tips because of the cutting instructions and shaft design. Back in time with parallel tips, you didn't get the same flex profile as a taper tip and better players wanted taper tips as they were consistent in their performance from wedge to 3 iron. You couldn't say the same thing about a parallel tipped set. Not really an issue today.

 

Not roasted, but slightly charred.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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  • 8 months later...

Nessism, there should be no question that using shafting beads to control the bondline thickness will increase bond strength over an uneven bondline. Even if your testing is valid, it's easily negated by using a higher shear strength epoxy. There's nothing wrong with using beads (microballoons) as directed, you should know they are used in many aviation parts. Not every club build is the same.

Brampton 5-15 shear strength = 3200 psi

Brampton 20-20 shear strength = 3800 psi

Brampton 20-20 with GBs = 3230 psi (worst case scenario - per your testing) + the added benefit of an even bondline? Winner!

 

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Please don't get me started...Bond line thickness isn't an issue with golf clubs where the shaft fits down into a clearance hole (hosel.) It's more a thing with lap joints that are under pressure where the clamp force can squeeze the adhesive out of the joint.

Regarding Brampton's epoxy, I realize that it's not evil stuff but their simplified published specs don't inspire confidence in my world. I use 3M or Hysol brand industrial epoxies which fly's 24/7 on airplanes all over the world. Brampton's says "aerospace grade" on their website but I seriously doubt any of their stuff is flying.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I'm not a materials engineer, but I do have a Materials Engineering group I rely on. We can't be engineers in every discipline. Can't even be an expert in every materials discipline.

Bondline thickness is important in a hole, or do you have data disputing that? Or are you suggesting a shaft offset entirely to one side is just as strong as one that has an even bondline? Intuitively you know that's not true.

Not every build is the same. Currently reshafting a near mint set of MX-23s (factory NV105s) with Modus 120s. I don't have a lie gage, but there was a significant amount of play between the shaft and hosel ID. Enough to change the lie quite a bit. Aiding bondline thickness with glass beads in this case is better club building.

Do you have data showing Brampton's inferiority? Are they making up their specs? We use Hardman double bubble on quite a few aviation items that operate in an environment no golf club will ever see. Are you an epoxy elitist? ;-) We also use quite a bit of Dexter Hysol and Epon products, but lap/shear are only part of the considerations when selecting an adhesive. We also use glass beads to control bondline thickness in more than just a lap joint.

I came here to see if someone had an innovative way to solve the issue of 10% by weight when they don't have a triple beam as my digital scale is not sensitive enough for these small quantities. But your comments discouraging people from using glass beads kind of suprised me, most of the posts I read from you are pretty well informed. If there were problems with using glass beads it would be all over this board.

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Well, I'm not a materials engineer, but I do have a Materials Engineering group I rely on. We can't be engineers in every discipline. Can't even be an expert in every material eng. discipline.

Bondline thickness is important in a hole, or do you have data disputing that? Or are you suggesting a shaft offset entirely to one side is just as strong as one that has an even bondline? Intuitively you know that's not true.

Not every build is the same. Currently reshafting a near mint set of MX-23s (factory NV105s) with Modus 120s. I don't have a lie gage, but there was a significant amount of play between the shaft and hosel ID. Enough to change the lie quite a bit. Aiding bondline thickness with glass beads in this case is better club building.

Do you have data showing Brampton's inferiority? Are they making up their specs? We use Hardman double bubble on quite a few aviation items that operate in an environment no golf club will ever see. Are you an epoxy elitist? ;-) We also use quite a bit of Dexter Hysol and Epon products, but lap/shear are only part of the considerations when selecting an adhesive. We also use glass beads to control bondline thickness in more than just a lap joint.

I came here to see if someone had an innovative way to solve the issue of 10% by weight when they don't have a triple beam as my digital scale is not sensitive enough for these small quantities. But your comments discouraging people from using glass beads kind of suprised me, most of the posts I read from you are pretty well informed. If there were problems with using glass beads it would be all over this board.

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@MMike said: but there was a significant amount of play between the shaft and hosel ID. Enough to change the lie quite a bit. Aiding bondline thickness with glass beads in this case is better club building.
Sorry, the math doesn't back you up in this particular context. If there was significant play in the lie/loft angle due to a loose fit, shimming would be better club building. Over a typical bore depth of 1.25", the standard (0.002") glass beads will only make a difference or correct for less than 0.3* of the angle being off from the loose fit. If it's off significantly before using beads, it's still going to be significantly off even with the beads.
EDIT - and that 0.3* is a best case. Since with a canted shaft in a hole, we're dealing with contact points and not areas, so there's no guarrentee the beads will help at all at the percentage that should be used. In fact, more often than not, they wont.
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my significant may be more than say...a woodworker

I'm not the one claiming shafting beads weaken a joint more that an uneven bond line, or that you shouldn't use shafting beads.

Beads are used to ensure a minimum bondline thickness. They should also be used when the shaft is tight in the hosel so you don't squeeze all of the epoxy out.

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Mizuno graphite shafts back in the MX23 days are parallel tip, as are the heads for those shafts. Modus 120 is taper tip. Trying to fill that gap with shafting beads constitutes bad clubmaking. As Stuart says, you need a shim.

Regarding Bramptons, have you looked at their so called "data sheet?" It looks like something a high schooler would write. Where is the comparison in strength between carbon steel bonds and stainless steel? Epoxy lap shear strength vs. temperature? Recommended heated cure schedule? Test method for their lap shear numbers?

Regarding adding fillers to epoxy, you go ahead and do what you want and I'll continue to discourage it. To my knowledge OEM's don't use beads. Oh, and if you go look at the Mizuno tour van videos you will see them use a piece of fishing line longitudinally along the shaft to shim the shaft in tight to the hosel. That will press the shaft to one side of the hosel and reduce bond line thickness to the minimum on the edge opposite of the line. Hum. Bad clubmaking (according to you.)

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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      New Cameron putters (and new "LD" grip) - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Bettinardi MB & CB irons - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Bettinardi API putter cover - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      Custom Swag API covers - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
      New Golf Pride Reverse Taper grips - 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
      • 15 replies
    • 2024 Cognizant Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #1
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #2
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #3
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #4
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Brandt Snedeker - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Max Greyserman - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Eric Cole - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Carl Yuan - WITb - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Russell Henley - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Justin Sun - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alex Noren - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Shane Lowry - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Taylor Montgomery - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jake Knapp (KnappTime_ltd) - WITB - - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Super Stoke Pistol Lock 1.0 & 2.0 grips - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      LA Golf new insert putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Garsen Quad Tour 15 grip - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Swag covers - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jacob Bridgeman's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Ryo Hisatsune's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Chris Kirk - new black Callaway Apex CB irons and a few Odyssey putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alejandro Tosti's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
      • 2 replies
    • 2024 Genesis Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #3
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Rory McIlroy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Sepp Straka - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Patrick Rodgers - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Brendon Todd - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Denny McCarthy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Corey Conners - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Chase Johnson - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tommy Fleetwood - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Matt Fitzpatrick - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Si Woo Kim - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Viktor Hovland - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Wyndham Clark - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Cam Davis - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Nick Taylor - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Ben Baller WITB update (New putter, driver, hybrid and shafts) – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Vortex Golf rangefinder - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Fujikura Ventus shaft - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods & TaylorMade "Sun Day Red" apparel launch event, product photos – 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods Sun Day Red golf shoes - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Aretera shafts - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Toulon putters - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods' new white "Sun Day Red" golf shoe prototypes – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      • 22 replies
    • 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put and questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Monday #1
      2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Monday #2
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Ben Taylor - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Garrick Higgo - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Billy Horschel - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Justin Lower - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Lanto Griffin - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Bud Cauley - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Corbin Burnes (2021 NL Cy Young) - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Greyson Sigg - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Charley Hoffman - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Nico Echavarria - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Victor Perez - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Sami Valimaki - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Ryo Hisatsune - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
       
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Jake Knapp's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      New Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Tyler Duncan's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Greyson Sigg's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Sunjae Im's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Ping's Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Vincent Whaley's custom Cameron - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Odyssey Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Super Stroke custom grips - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Zac Blair's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Bettinardi Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
       
       
       
       
       
       

       
      • 12 replies

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