Grip size

[Howard_Jones]

> @"North Butte" said:

> I'll tell you how far down the rabbit hole I've gone lately...

>

> I noticed that when I choke down on my hybrids, the grip feels less skinny than it does on my irons. So I got out the calipers and, go figure, the hybrid shafts where they exit the bottom of the grip are 0.590" diameter. Basically those shafts hardly taper at all in the first ten inches below the 0.600" butts. My irons are about 0.575" where they exit the grip. And my sand wedge shaft (different shaft than in my irons) is just 0.565" where the grip ends.

>

> You'd think no way I can feel a difference of about 15 thousandths under my left hand but I think i can. So I pulled my PW grip, added some of that extra thick build-up tape (adds 0.015" per wrap) starting at the first shaft step-down point, added the usual grip tape and regripped it. I swear it feels better under the left hand in normal address position and it definitely feels less choked-down skinny.

>

> Remender the old story about the Princess and the Pea? I think I am the Princess.

 

THIS......go for what feels right.

 

A few words about grip sizing in general.

The standard for grip size is only 1 spot on the grip, 2 inch below the grip end, so depending on the actual grip s shape and taper, the size for the lowest hand might be variable even if the grip size suggest they are the same, but its ONLY 2 inch below the grip end they are equal.

 

To make this "right", we have to start by measuring the shaft butt from the end and 10 inch down.

On many iron shafts, especially wedges, we are already down and over 3 steps or more, so the shaft butt is hardly ever strait and equal on all the 10 inches down. I suggest that we use build up on the steps to get all 10 inches the grip covers to become the same start diameter.

 

IF we feel that the LOWEST hand is the one who should have more diameter, we dont need a larger "overall size", but can use asymmetrical build up to straiten out the taper and add diameter for the lowest hand. Before Golfpride MCC+4 came to the marked, the most sold grip in my shop was New Decade, but for wedges the lowest hand got a diameter too small, so i used a asymmetrical BU who makes them very close to MCC+4, and we can use that on what ever grip we like.

 

Here is one example of how we can do that. The "standard" im using here is 4 layers total build up,

- The Build up tape area is between the White lines on the grip, a total of 10 Inch

Ive chosen to use "steps of tape" each is 2.25 long

Start by adding a mark 1 inch down from the butt.

- First layer starts at this mark and go down against the head side. - This layer is 4 x 2.25 = 9 inch

- Second layer start from the head side and up, - This layer is 3 x 2.25 = 6.75 inch

- Third layer starts from the head side and up. - This layer is 2 x 2.25 = 4.5 inch

- Forth layer starts from the head side and up - This layer is 1 x 2.25 = 2.25

 

Here is how it looks on the shaft butt when we have added the asymmetrical BU suggested.

 

This photo shows a grip where ive used a pen to show where each step of BU ends up, and ive also marked the steps of the shaft, so we clearly see that shaft butt diameter goes down (build them up first so the whole grip section of 10 inch is strait).

 

 

 

[mogc60]

I try to explain it in my reply that I do that...of course Howard has photos of it and explains it perfect. Yes...Do that ^^

[North Butte]

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> To make this "right", we have to start by measuring the shaft butt from the end and 10 inch down.

> On many iron shafts, especially wedges, we are already down and over 3 steps or more, so the shaft butt is hardly ever strait and equal on all the 10 inches down. I suggest that we use build up on the steps to get all 10 inches the grip covers to become the same start diameter.

 

That’s what I finally stumbled on. Using build up tape to fill in the steps and make the entire 10” of shaft basically 0.600” (or a few thousandths less).

[mogc60]

> @"North Butte" said:

> > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > To make this "right", we have to start by measuring the shaft butt from the end and 10 inch down.

> > On many iron shafts, especially wedges, we are already down and over 3 steps or more, so the shaft butt is hardly ever strait and equal on all the 10 inches down. I suggest that we use build up on the steps to get all 10 inches the grip covers to become the same start diameter.

>

> That’s what I finally stumbled on. Using build up tape to fill in the steps and make the entire 10” of shaft basically 0.600” (or a few thousandths less).

 

You’ll be glad you did...it makes a huge difference day in and day out with the comfort of your grip. Club to club, into the wind, downwind the grip feels right no matter where you grip down or up to

[shanx]

Got a bucket in today, with the MP5s with jumbo grips.

 

Meh, too bulky.

I couldn't get a feel for the club head, felt like I was swinging a baseball bat. The funny thing is, I felt my wrists were too active, I hit a bunch left, with a big draw. My grip is a little strong to begin with, I had to open up to get things back to normal.

 

 

 

 

 

[Howard_Jones]

> @shanx said:

> Got a bucket in today, with the MP5s with jumbo grips.

>

> Meh, too bulky.

> I couldn't get a feel for the club head, felt like I was swinging a baseball bat. The funny thing is, I felt my wrists were too active, I hit a bunch left, with a big draw. My grip is a little strong to begin with, I had to open up to get things back to normal.

>

>

>

>

>

 

The club specs we play has a higher influence on the player, than the player has on the club, meaning club specs FORCES US to change something to make it work, so as soon we change one parameter, it forces the player to compensate, in your case, a change of how you grip the club. When we know this, we can take advantage of it to "force" the player into "a better swing" by changing the club specs that forces him in the direction we want him to go.

[shanx]

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> > @shanx said:

> > Got a bucket in today, with the MP5s with jumbo grips.

> >

> > Meh, too bulky.

> > I couldn't get a feel for the club head, felt like I was swinging a baseball bat. The funny thing is, I felt my wrists were too active, I hit a bunch left, with a big draw. My grip is a little strong to begin with, I had to open up to get things back to normal.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

> The club specs we play has a higher influence on the player, than the player has on the club, meaning club specs FORCES US to change something to make it work, so as soon we change one parameter, it forces the player to compensate, in your case, a change of how you grip the club. When we know this, we can take advantage of it to "force" the player into "a better swing" by changing the club specs that forces him in the direction we want him to go.

 

Interesting....I played 9 holes with the set yesterday, grips too big, shafts a bit too stout, pull hooked short irons a few times too....