Lead tape Heaven, ideas for use of lead tape.
This is a tribute to Lead tape and a few ideas of how we can use it you might not have thought of.
How to build a shaft set with tighter SHAFT weight tolerance than Tour Issue?
That’s very simple, if your target is CONSTANT weight, and your raw shafts is CONSTANT Wgt, we simply do everything as usual, and when your shafts is dry fittet, and cut to their actual net play lengths, we put them on the scale, one by one, take notes, and then we measure the balance point of each shaft.
We cant remove weight, only add, that’s what we do with lead tape, so now we do the math for how much we need to add to your shafts, so all becomes just like the most heavy of them, and add that weight as lead tape on the underside of the shaft, on the shafts actual balance point. This way we don’t see that lead tape from address. We can RAISE the shaft weight on all if wanted.
If you start from DESCENDING WEIGHT shafts, start by weight sorting of them, the lightest for the longest club, the heaviest for the shortest. Just like with tapers, do everything as usual, and when Dryfit and shafts are cut to play lengths, match all shafts with lead tape to become like the heaviest of them on the shafts actual balance point. This way even descending weight shafts can be made to tolerances better than constant weight Tour Issue from OEM.
ASCENDING WEIGHT can be made the same way, and with the progression you like, its no limits, only for when it don’t fit you anymore, so never overdo it, Weight is a very important factor, so don’t make it “Light or Heavy” make it “Right”
Example, you like the weight of Classic DG in the short end, but they are too heavy in the long end, and AMT to light or dont feel right. DG120 might fit better in the long end than both the others, but is to light in the short end. No problem, go DG 120 and make them ASCENDING WGT with the slope you find right, it be a PW of 127 or 135 grams, with lead tape we can do that.
How To find the shafts balance point, put the net.cut shaft on one finger to find circa BP. Put some painter tape around the shaft at that point, and put the shaft of a “sharp edge” (a knife in a wise, edge up is perfect),m then move it back and forth until the shaft rest in balance. Now push it down against the knife, so the edge of the knife set a BP mark in the tape, NOT the shaft, thats why we added that tape, so dont push to hard. Measure distance in millimeter from both sides and take notes and mark it.
Why not go 3/8” and still choose if you wants to play classic SW match or Poor mans MOI match or maybe something in-between? The 3/8” set ups has become some kind of a “Custom Iron standard” for how we easiest can get both the long and the short end of the set “right for us”….
We also have lots of other options, but start by looking at the 3/8” set ups, they gives a very good picture of how this looks like compared to the classic 4/8” system.
This charts is based on the #8 iron as our starting point, then 3/8” both ways, so if you are happy with your #8 iron as it is, and wants the other to feel like that club, this charts is strait forward to that. If your #8 iron is plus 0.5”, then that’s how it should be, and then that’s your starting point.
ALL numbers is “relative” to expected standard specs where SW value is D2, but no matter what play lengths we choose, or what SW value we start from, if they are all the 4/8” and the same SW value now, the needed amount of head weight correction is the same for all, so its not much lead tape needed to tune them up to “poor mans Moi Match”, but you should choose the head weight progression you play the best with, and the lead tape gives you that freedom.
Reference numbers for grams pr SWP
How to make a Counter-weighted shaft.
This subject is very often misunderstood, way to often we se a player asking for help to lower feel of head weight without going down on head weight or go shorter, so they try the Counterweight method, only to find out that when total weight went up, it became worse.
Look at this 2 “brother models”, Grafalloy PL Red and Grafalloy PL RED SUPERCHARGED
They have the same weight and uncut play lengths, but with a very different balance point, so the Supercharged model will show up to 5 SWP lower “all else equal”, so its designed to be played 1 inch longer or with 10 grams higher head weight if you like.
We might think that we can take the standard model of 64 grams, and add 5 grams pr SWP we need as Counter-weight, so to make this to shafts to return the same SW value, we need 5 SWP x 5 = 25 grams added to the butt on the standard model
**We now have a Super-Charged 64 grams and a Super-Charged 64+25 = 89 grams….we failed BAD.
To make it right, we must reverse the numbers, and use 5 grams = 1SWP, so if we need 3 SWP as Counterweight, we must start from a shaft 15 grams below our need to make total weight correct.
Lead tape on the butt side of the shaft for all clubs can be rolled in a spiral pattern under the grip. If you do a good job, and roll the shaft a few times on your table when done, 1 layer of standard Lead tape will add about the same as 1 layer of Build up tape and weight about 25 grams for 1 layer.
Even GRIP WEIGHT can be matched to "Tour issue tolerances" this way, they might be up to plus minus 3.5 grams from production. Find the grips BP, add that amount of lead tape on the shaft where the grips balance point is so all grips gets the same weight.
Thanks for reading and thanks for the Lead tape, use it right and improve your game and have more fun both building clubs and playing them out there.
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