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heat curing epoxy....How many do it?


NavyMustangGolf

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Just got done Re-buiding my 13 XForged irons. Wasnt in a rush, but have gotten into the habit of heat curing my builds. Brampton 20/20 and about three hours in 120* heat box works like a charm. Epoxy passed the tap test with no issues. At work, we heat cure all of the epoxy repairs that are done. Wondering how many out there do the same with your builds.

I felt really good about that shot....
Until I hit it.

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I'm sure it comes down to having the right equipment to do the job at home, which I know doesn't happen on my workbench! This is the standard on all of the tour trucks... they use 24 hour cure epoxy and set the hosel for each build in a vice that electrically heats to an exact predetermined temperature for 3 minutes (give or a take a minute) and done. It's pretty amazing.

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I heat cure epoxy. 60 mins at 140F typically. I use some scrap wood to build an air dam around the clubs then I use a heat gun set on low and aim it to blow into the box so to speak. Not only does the epoxy cure faster with heat it also cures stronger. I typically use 3M DP420/460 or DP810 and 3M publishes data sheets to go with these material that details what temps can be used and how long to cure it. I'd be leary of a going to a temp above that detailed in the data sheet. Those OEM guys may be using some special heat cure type adhesive, and you can bet they have done pull tests to verify their curing method is suitable. Unless you got the test equipment then I'd stick to the tried and true methods detailed on the data sheet.

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Other than the 3m, I havent seen many data sheets for cure times from the other companies. This is more of a pet project, though. Makes sense that 20 degrees higher would cut the time more, but I worry about viscosity when flashing and such. I would need to fashion a new cure box to get temperature up, more. my current setup is small and uses a scentsy warming bulb as the heat source. Need more power!!!! Time to design another one.

I felt really good about that shot....
Until I hit it.

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That's what I need. Saw a video on that once, before. Pretty high speed stuff.

This is what you need. They sell lower cost systems too that do 3 clubs at a time.

 

 

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I'll heat cure if in a pinch, but that rarely happens any more because it just doesn't need to happen anywhere outside of a Tour Van or high volume custom shop. No such thing as a "golf emergency." As Nessism said, you need to know your epoxy and be able to manage the temps to do it right.

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Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
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I'll heat cure if in a pinch, but that rarely happens any more because it just doesn't need to happen anywhere outside of a Tour Van or high volume custom shop. No such thing as a "golf emergency." As Nessism said, you need to know your epoxy and be able to manage the temps to do it right.

 

Agree that there is no such thing as a golf emergency, but one cannot have too many cool toys in the workshop. I always heat cure my epoxy, while i have not looked at the tech sheet for the brampton epoxy, I have had great results with it thus far.

I felt really good about that shot....
Until I hit it.

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I'll heat cure if in a pinch, but that rarely happens any more because it just doesn't need to happen anywhere outside of a Tour Van or high volume custom shop. No such thing as a "golf emergency." As Nessism said, you need to know your epoxy and be able to manage the temps to do it right.

 

Agree that there is no such thing as a golf emergency, but one cannot have too many cool toys in the workshop. I always heat cure my epoxy, while i have not looked at the tech sheet for the brampton epoxy, I have had great results with it thus far.

 

So true. "Hold on dude, let me make this shaft swap real quick. Give me three minutes."

 

Then walk out of your garage like it's a tour van. lol

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If it is going to be less than 80 degrees in my garage during the next 24 hours, the club is going into the hotbox. I'll let it cure for 18 to 24 hours in there, but I'm not taking chances on it not completely curing.

 

Hope your hot box isn't too hot. Over curing the epoxy at high temp will cause damage.

 

140F is the hottest i'll go, and there is no point in extending the cure time beyond 90 or maybe 120 mins.

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Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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I heat cure epoxy. 60 mins at 140F typically. I use some scrap wood to build an air dam around the clubs then I use a heat gun set on low and aim it to blow into the box so to speak. Not only does the epoxy cure faster with heat it also cures stronger. I typically use 3M DP420/460 or DP810 and 3M publishes data sheets to go with these material that details what temps can be used and how long to cure it. I'd be leary of a going to a temp above that detailed in the data sheet. Those OEM guys may be using some special heat cure type adhesive, and you can bet they have done pull tests to verify their curing method is suitable. Unless you got the test equipment then I'd stick to the tried and true methods detailed on the data sheet.

This is the way I've done it since the '90s. Never lost a clubhead.

 

BT

 

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From basic physics/chemistry.

 

The speed of most all chemical reactions increases/decreases by 2x for every 10C change in temperature. The reaction also generates some heat.

 

The only real limit on curing shaft in hosel assemblies is if you get the temperature too high the epoxy may just get so thin it all ends up in the space below the shaft tip with not enough left between the shaft od and the hosel .id.

 

As to getting stronger this is a non factor. All epoxies commonly used for assembling golf clubs have more then enough strength if the shaft and hosel prep work is done correctly.

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  • 2 years later...

> @Nessism said:

> I heat cure epoxy. 60 mins at 140F typically. I use some scrap wood to build an air dam around the clubs then I use a heat gun set on low and aim it to blow into the box so to speak. Not only does the epoxy cure faster with heat it also cures stronger. I typically use 3M DP420/460 or DP810 and 3M publishes data sheets to go with these material that details what temps can be used and how long to cure it. I'd be leary of a going to a temp above that detailed in the data sheet. Those OEM guys may be using some special heat cure type adhesive, and you can bet they have done pull tests to verify their curing method is suitable. Unless you got the test equipment then I'd stick to the tried and true methods detailed on the data sheet.

 

Ness, do you use the mixing syringes and/or the mixing gun with with the DP420 or does it work okay to use manual plunger and hand mix?

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Fairly certain he uses the appropriate gun. I use a gun to give me the right ratios, but do not use the mixing tubes that attaches to the epoxy tube. It wastes too much epoxy. Just mix the epoxy real well and all will be fine. Using the right gun for the epoxy you use is cheap insurance.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
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Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
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> @Socrates said:

> Fairly certain he uses the appropriate gun. I use a gun to give me the right ratios, but do not use the mixing tubes that attaches to the epoxy tube. It wastes too much epoxy. Just mix the epoxy real well and all will be fine. Using the right gun for the epoxy you use is cheap insurance.

 

Understood, I felt fairly certain I needed the gun but wasn’t sure whether or not I needed the mixing needles. Thanks a ton!

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PING Glide 4.0 50,54,60 Steelfiber i95

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I do not have one of these, but have seen it in action. Works really good. But is it worth the $500?

https://www.golfworks.com/auditor-programmable-epoxy-cure-system-3/p/gm1042/

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> @DallasSteve said:

> If it is going to be less than 80 degrees in my garage during the next 24 hours, the club is going into the hotbox. I'll let it cure for 18 to 24 hours in there, but I'm not taking chances on it not completely curing.

 

My balcony in Thailand seldom gets below 80 f.I keep the epoxy inside but mix late afternoon and give it 10 minutes,stir again before applying.Set overnight outside

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Wow...mine are dry solid as can be in 5 minutes and never had a failure. No heat, no syringe, no special sauce, no onions please. Just some resin, hardener and a tee. High tech stuff.

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> @Socrates said:

> Fairly certain he uses the appropriate gun. I use a gun to give me the right ratios, but do not use the mixing tubes that attaches to the epoxy tube. It wastes too much epoxy. Just mix the epoxy real well and all will be fine. Using the right gun for the epoxy you use is cheap insurance.

 

Correct. 3M sells a gun and there are aftermarket guns too. 3M changed their cartridges recently so you have to pay attention to what plunger you get to go along with the gun. There is a datasheet on 3M's website detailing all this out. Another good epoxy option is Loctite Hysol EA E-60HP. There is also a 20 and 120, which references working life time. The Hysol is good stuff, similar to DP420/460, but somewhat cheaper.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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> @Whodey-85 said:

> I do not have one of these, but have seen it in action. Works really good. But is it worth the $500?

> https://www.golfworks.com/auditor-programmable-epoxy-cure-system-3/p/gm1042/

 

I former student of mine who now runs his own True Temper Performance Fitting Center has that Epoxy cure system, and he dont regret the investment but.....i hate it when its no time and everything is like "fast food", i dont like to work that way, and a way lower cost option (DIY Heat box) does the job, but it take a little longer.....i would NOT spend that money for epoxy curing, its other tools i want more....

 

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> @"Howard Jones" said:

> > @Whodey-85 said:

> > I do not have one of these, but have seen it in action. Works really good. But is it worth the $500?

> > https://www.golfworks.com/auditor-programmable-epoxy-cure-system-3/p/gm1042/

>

> I former student of mine who now runs his own True Temper Performance Fitting Center has that Epoxy cure system, and he dont regret the investment but.....i hate it when its no time and everything is like "fast food", i dont like to work that way, and a way lower cost option (DIY Heat box) does the job, but it take a little longer.....i would NOT spend that money for epoxy curing, its other tools i want more....

>

> http://madebyrosenberg.dk/?page_id=31

 

You have to be building a LOT of clubs to be worthwhile. Like Howard, I am not a fan of the "fast food" mantra. Take your time and do it right.

 

 

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X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
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  • 7 months later...

Just a quick question..

I used 20 hour epoxy on a set that I want to use in an hour or two. The cure time should be 330pm today. I put a space heater on them and put them in a corner an hour or two ago. Should they be cured by the time I want to play with that bit of extra heat? Should I crank it up? I have no thermometer and don’t feel like making one, so been using low heat as a precaution.

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ok I understand. Just wondering anyways, would you think this pictured setup would speed it up significantly? I can’t find specs on the heater, and I don’t want to head out for a thermometer, ..the air may be 80F or so coming out of there. The heater is tilted so the air flows under the clubs also. The heater is closer on this one than it was on the setup earlier

AOEZF3D78WCI.jpeg

Radspeed 8, 13.5, 17.5/hzrdusgreentx                                                           Radspeed 21/tz4100m5+
Utility one length 3,4 iron/mmt105tx
                                                              Forged one length 6-9/x100 wedge onyx

vokey 46*8, 54*8, 62*8/s400 wedge onyx                                                    phantom x5/stabilitytour

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80F won't do much to speed the cure. You need 120F for 90 mins or one hour at 140F. Putting the hosel near an old fashion 100W lightbulb works good.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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Ok I’ll turn it up cause I don’t seem to have a 100w. Hopefully 2 hours at 80-110 degrees plus 14 hours room temperature would be sufficient?

Radspeed 8, 13.5, 17.5/hzrdusgreentx                                                           Radspeed 21/tz4100m5+
Utility one length 3,4 iron/mmt105tx
                                                              Forged one length 6-9/x100 wedge onyx

vokey 46*8, 54*8, 62*8/s400 wedge onyx                                                    phantom x5/stabilitytour

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