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Best clubs for strong newbie


Sparty47

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Hello All, new to the forum and seeking some wisdom from you all.

 

Started golfing seriously in Feb. of this year and looking to replace my old irons. Current gamers are some Callaway Diablo Edge irons/hybrids. They’re “R” flex w standard LLL.

 

Little info on my game... I’m a younger guy and former athlete so don’t have any problem generating club head speed (7 iron 105+mph) but my ball striking is not good (yet?). I’ve taken a few lessons and the pro insists I have a “good” swing just lack consistency in my sequence/delivery. Also said I NEED new irons, “R flex” with my speed and fast tempo is a bad combo. Also the heads I’m using have very poor feedback on strikes.

 

To my question:

 

Which category of irons should I be looking at?

 

SGI and GI seem to be aimed at those seeking higher launch, less spin, more distance, etc. Aside from forgiveness, these are things seemingly opposite of what I need for my game.

 

Went to two separate fitters and while I have a good idea on shaft, LLL, they recommended polar opposite style of heads. One more “players” style the other “SGI”.

 

Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for any help you might be able to share.

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Sounds like you've done all the right things for somebody new to the game - lessons, fitting, having right shafts and LLL is certainly important. Cavity backs may not always provide that feel you desire but certainly will help until your swing consistency is where you want. There are certainly great options in between SGI and players irons. The "players distance" category or "game improvement" targeted at mid handicappers may be good place to start. Demo, demo, demo before purchasing!

Ben Hogan GS53 9* with UST Helium stiff  & Ben Hogan GS53 16* with UST Helium stiff

Titleist 816 H2 21* with stiff flex Diamana S+ Blue 70  

Ping G400 irons 5-AW with steel AWT shafts

Callaway MD4 Wide sole wedges 54* & 58*

Seemore Nashville One Studio Series

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You won’t want sgi... that’s going to create massive flyer problems.

 

Honestly, I’d go with cavity backs. Enough forgiveness to help with mis hits, but shouldn’t create massive flyers.

 

I have a 95 mph 7 iron swing and I’m a decent ball striker. I’ve played Taylor made oversize irons for the past 20 years. I’m making a change this year, but more because I need different shafts than anything... mine still have regular shafts.

 

At your speed and skill level, I highly recommend learning to hit a 3/4 swing shot. You’ll be surprised how little distance you give and how much consistency you gain.

As of  10/11/2021

9 Callaway Mavrk Sub Zero with Ventus Black 7X

13 Degree Srixon 3 wood Project X Black 6.5

19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

4 Utility Sub70 699u 22 degree Proforce V2

5-GW Srixon Zx5 with Project X 6.5

Sub70 286 54

Sub70 JB Low Bounce 58

SeeMore milled Tri-Mallet fit and built at SeeMore 

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> @Sparty47 said:

> Hello All, new to the forum and seeking some wisdom from you all.

>

> Started golfing seriously in Feb. of this year and looking to replace my old irons. Current gamers are some Callaway Diablo Edge irons/hybrids. They’re “R” flex w standard LLL.

>

> Little info on my game... I’m a younger guy and former athlete so don’t have any problem generating club head speed (7 iron 105+mph) but my ball striking is not good (yet?). I’ve taken a few lessons and the pro insists I have a “good” swing just lack consistency in my sequence/delivery. Also said I NEED new irons, “R flex” with my speed and fast tempo is a bad combo. Also the heads I’m using have very poor feedback on strikes.

>

> To my question:

>

> Which category of irons should I be looking at?

>

> SGI and GI seem to be aimed at those seeking higher launch, less spin, more distance, etc. Aside from forgiveness, these are things seemingly opposite of what I need for my game.

>

> Went to two separate fitters and while I have a good idea on shaft, LLL, they recommended polar opposite style of heads. One more “players” style the other “SGI”.

>

> Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for any help you might be able to share.

 

I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

 

Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

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Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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The first thing I would tell you to do is quit worrying about swinging so fast. If you swing your 7 iron 105+ mph on the course you're 15 mph faster than the average on the PGA tour. Slow down and get some control in your game or it won't matter what kind of irons you're playing.

 

Ping G430 Max 10.5

Ping G430 5&7 Wood

Ping G430 19°,22° Hybrids

Callaway 2007 X-Forged 5-PW/ PXG Gen 6 XP's 7-SW

Ping Glide 58ES Wedge

Ping PLD DS72 / Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2.5+ 

Life is like riding a bicycle, to keep your balance you must keep moving

 

 

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I would seriously consider simply reshafting your current clubs. The Diablo Edge is a pretty good set for someone new to the game. They will give you the high launch and forgiveness you need right now. You likely need some heavier and stiffer shafts to get the most out of them though. There are some really good shaft options nowadays with parallel tips to fit into those heads. Dynamic Gold X100, Nippon Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 and 130, KBS Tour and C Taper are just a few off the top of my head that might work well for you. If I were in your shoes, I would work with a fitter to find the right shafts and then just have the Callaways reshafted. That approach will save you some money that you can spend on more lessons, which are very important at this stage in the game.

PING G400 Max 10.5° GD YS Nano Reloaded 6X                                            

TaylorMade SIM2 Max 16.5° 3HL Mitsubishi Diamana Kai'Li 70 X                                                       

Callaway V-Series 19° 5 wood Mitsubishi Diamana Kai'Li 80 S                                                         

PING G410 22°, 26° & 30° Hybrids KBS Steel Hybrid Shaft X                                               

Adams A4 Forged 7-PW Dynamic Gold AMT X100 D4                                                                        

Cleveland CBX 50°, 55° Dynamic Gold S400

Cleveland CBX Full Face 60° Dynamic Gold Tour Spinner

Odyssey 2-Ball Blade w/Triple Trac

Vice Pro Plus Lime

                                              

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I'm newish enough to the game. Have been playing for over 15 years but stopped playing regularly once real life began (family, kids, etc.). However, I began playing again in earnest this season. I got fit for clubs after taking some lessons. I live close to a range and have a hitting rig setup at my house. I've also played far more rounds this season than I have in the last 10 years combined. So I've been getting in a decent amount of practice based on the tips I received at my lessons.

 

My swing has rapidly improved, my flexibility has increased and my contact is night and day better than the beginning of the season. Now, unfortunately, it looks like my swing has changed enough that my clubs are not as good of a fit as they were when I purchased them. I've been starting to hit a lot more flyers with my irons because I went with R flex shafts (KBS Tour 90). The Steelheads I have go straight with good distance, but they launch pretty high. I've actually thought about selling my clubs and getting new ones, but I'm going to wait a few seasons to see how much my swing ultimately changes.

 

I'd recommend getting something relatively inexpensive (i.e., preowned) and just work on improving your swing.

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> @phatchrisrules said:

 

> I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

>

> Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

 

Awesome reply! Thanks for taking the time to post all that.

 

If I may pick your brain a bit more, what if I’m already flighting the ball too high? Is there such a thing? I feel like I could eat a sandwich before my short irons land. The better golfers I play with regularly comment on it.

 

Also since your post I’ve looked more seriously at the “Game Improvement” and “Players distance” offerings.

 

My preliminary list would be something like:

 

919 Hot Metal

Srixon z585

Cobra F9

 

Also very interested in the 919 Forged, due to the fact that a lot of offset seems to exaggerate my typical Pull/Hook miss... but I wonder what you would think about something like that for my skill level?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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> @drumdude96 said:

> I would seriously consider simply reshafting your current clubs. The Diablo Edge is a pretty good set for someone new to the game. They will give you the high launch and forgiveness you need right now. You likely need some heavier and stiffer shafts to get the most out of them though. There are some really good shaft options nowadays with parallel tips to fit into those heads. Dynamic Gold X100, Nippon Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 and 130, KBS Tour and C Taper are just a few off the top of my head that might work well for you. If I were in your shoes, I would work with a fitter to find the right shafts and then just have the Callaways reshafted. That approach will save you some money that you can spend on more lessons, which are very important at this stage in the game.

 

 

Thanks for the reply. Yeah actually hadn’t given that much serious consideration until this thread. The way the shafts we’re positioned in the head, I honestly didn’t think they could be swapped out.

 

However my only concern is adjusting the lie angle. After both my fittings I was told 3 degrees upright would be best for me.

 

To your knowledge, can a cast iron be bent that much? I’ve found some conflicting info on it.

 

If so, I may very well try that before buying a new set.

 

 

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> @Sparty47 said:

> > @drumdude96 said:

> > I would seriously consider simply reshafting your current clubs. The Diablo Edge is a pretty good set for someone new to the game. They will give you the high launch and forgiveness you need right now. You likely need some heavier and stiffer shafts to get the most out of them though. There are some really good shaft options nowadays with parallel tips to fit into those heads. Dynamic Gold X100, Nippon Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 and 130, KBS Tour and C Taper are just a few off the top of my head that might work well for you. If I were in your shoes, I would work with a fitter to find the right shafts and then just have the Callaways reshafted. That approach will save you some money that you can spend on more lessons, which are very important at this stage in the game.

>

>

> Thanks for the reply. Yeah actually hadn’t given that much serious consideration until this thread. The way the shafts we’re positioned in the head, I honestly didn’t think they could be swapped out.

>

> However my only concern is adjusting the lie angle. After both my fittings I was told 3 degrees upright would be best for me.

>

> To your knowledge, can a cast iron be bent that much? I’ve found some conflicting info on it.

>

> If so, I may very well try that before buying a new set.

>

>

 

I think that 3* upright shouldn't be a problem. Re shafting is super easy, definitely the path to go down if they can bend them 3* upright.

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> @Sparty47 said:

> > @phatchrisrules said:

>

> > I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

> >

> > Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

>

> Awesome reply! Thanks for taking the time to post all that.

>

> If I may pick your brain a bit more, what if I’m already flighting the ball too high? Is there such a thing? I feel like I could eat a sandwich before my short irons land. The better golfers I play with regularly comment on it.

>

> Also since your post I’ve looked more seriously at the “Game Improvement” and “Players distance” offerings.

>

> My preliminary list would be something like:

>

> 919 Hot Metal

> Srixon z585

> Cobra F9

>

> Also very interested in the 919 Forged, due to the fact that a lot of offset seems to exaggerate my typical Pull/Hook miss... but I wonder what you would think about something like that for my skill level?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

 

If you hit the ball high already there are things that can be done to fix that. A few options are getting something a bit weaker lofted that has little offset and bending it a bit stronger to flatten flight, switching out shafts to something heavier, and going to a spinnier golf ball. I'll unpack each of these for you. Loft is king on ball flight, always will be. Therefore if you don't want to introduce a ton of offset you could always get something like the 919 Forged, Ping i210, or AP2 and bend them stronger as these usually have less offset to begin with and bending them stronger will only marginally introduce more offset. However, the problem with these is that they aren't the friendliest irons out there. They would be great for someone who shoots no more than about 85 but anything much higher than that and we are starting to get into the "hating golf territory" again as the mishits will be relatively penal.

 

Heavier shafts will tend to launch a little bit lower than lighter weight shafts just solely based on the physical weight of the shaft and the way the balance point is moved throughout the shaft (a sort of rule of thumb is the heavier the shaft is typically the balance point moves a bit higher to make it feel stiffer and launch a bit flatter). Not always the case for sure (Modus 130 for example) but it rings true for most. Spinnier golf balls also launch about 2* lower but spin higher compared to low spin golf balls. For instance, I saw 15.6* of launch and 5600 spin out of the Mizuno RB Tour X ball compared to the Srixon Z-Star XV that launched at 18* and spun at 4700.

 

I think for now I wouldn't really worry about height unless it is excessively high. Only a fitting can determine that with much effect as many people claim to hit the ball high but in reality barely hit the bottom end of acceptable for peak height. I can't count the number of people who say they hit the ball high compared to everyone they play with and they launch a driver at 10* with a peak height of 80 feet.

 

Sorry for the lengthy post but I think some good ones for you if you are looking for reduced offset but something that will flight the ball lower as they aren't ridiculously wide-soled and have the added bonus of a few more shaft options:

 

Taylormade M5

Taylormade P790 (creeping into tough to hit territory for someone who shoots over 90)

Cobra F9

Mizuno Hot Metal Pro (don't let the pro name scare you, they are quite forgiving)

Srixon 585

Callaway Apex CF19

Ping G410 Power Spec (stronger lofts to reduce flight and spin)

Wilson C300

Titleist AP1

 

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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> @Sparty47 said:

> > @drumdude96 said:

> > I would seriously consider simply reshafting your current clubs. The Diablo Edge is a pretty good set for someone new to the game. They will give you the high launch and forgiveness you need right now. You likely need some heavier and stiffer shafts to get the most out of them though. There are some really good shaft options nowadays with parallel tips to fit into those heads. Dynamic Gold X100, Nippon Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 and 130, KBS Tour and C Taper are just a few off the top of my head that might work well for you. If I were in your shoes, I would work with a fitter to find the right shafts and then just have the Callaways reshafted. That approach will save you some money that you can spend on more lessons, which are very important at this stage in the game.

>

>

> Thanks for the reply. Yeah actually hadn’t given that much serious consideration until this thread. The way the shafts we’re positioned in the head, I honestly didn’t think they could be swapped out.

>

> However my only concern is adjusting the lie angle. After both my fittings I was told 3 degrees upright would be best for me.

>

> To your knowledge, can a cast iron be bent that much? I’ve found some conflicting info on it.

>

> If so, I may very well try that before buying a new set.

>

>

 

Cast irons can normally be bent 3* but that is kind of the upper bound. However, you want to make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing as they are a bit trickier to get to move all that way and they can snap at the hosel.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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Feedback may not be great but you can tell when missed, not like you hit ir right out of the toe or heel and have no idea it happened. Thats why you should go GI with X stiff. You have to remember ur playing golf not a game of "feedback" if right now a GI iron will help you get closer to the hole than a players CB all things being equal. As ur ballstriking improves you can move into players sets so your not punished as severely.

 

that said

TM PSI

TM RSi2

Titleist AP3

are a few of nice options.

Callaway Paradym 9* PX HZRDUS Gen4 Black 60 6.0

Callaway Paradym 15* - PX HZRDUS Gen4 Black 70 6.0

Callaway Rogue ST Pro 3 HB 20* - Tensei White 85 S

Callaway Rogue ST Pro 4-PW - DG 105 S300

Vokey SM9 50* - 54* - 58* - TT Wedge 

Odyssey White Hot OG 2 Ball


Titleist ProV1

 

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@phatchrisrules thanks again for taking the time! A lot of great info here.

Called a few local golf places and no one will bend my old irons for me. Not confidently anyway. So... looks like I'm picking something else up.

I plan to demo several of the ones listed above to see what sticks out.

 

I'll post what I end up going with if there is any interest.

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With your speed it will take a while to hit the sweetspot unless you feel like you already do. Which in case pick up a set of the cheap x stiff blades of any brand on ebay that people realize they can't hit. 105+ mph clubhead speed is insane. You might want to look at long drive competitions if you can up your CHS with better technique.

Although on second thought for you a combo set would be nice. Longer clubs more forgiving, and shorter clubs more control. Definitely need wedges and learn to hit 3/4 and half shots, punch shots etc. You definitely don't need a whole set of GI clubs since shorter irons will be going too far for you.

Don't listen to the guys telling you to reshaft. You're on GolfWRX. You should be shopping for new clubs LOL.

Callaway Paradym TD 10* Ventus Red TR 5S

Titleist TSR3 13.5* 3 Wood Tour AD-IZ 6S

Titleist TSR3 19* hybrid Modus GOST S

Titleist TSR2 24* hybrid Modus GOST S

Callaway Paradym Hybrid 27* Ventus non Velocore S

Titleist T100 2023 6-PW KBS Tour V S

Titleist SM8 50, 56, 60

Scotty Cameron X7.5 CS

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> @phatchrisrules said:

> > @Sparty47 said:

> > Hello All, new to the forum and seeking some wisdom from you all.

> >

> > Started golfing seriously in Feb. of this year and looking to replace my old irons. Current gamers are some Callaway Diablo Edge irons/hybrids. They’re “R” flex w standard LLL.

> >

> > Little info on my game... I’m a younger guy and former athlete so don’t have any problem generating club head speed (7 iron 105+mph) but my ball striking is not good (yet?). I’ve taken a few lessons and the pro insists I have a “good” swing just lack consistency in my sequence/delivery. Also said I NEED new irons, “R flex” with my speed and fast tempo is a bad combo. Also the heads I’m using have very poor feedback on strikes.

> >

> > To my question:

> >

> > Which category of irons should I be looking at?

> >

> > SGI and GI seem to be aimed at those seeking higher launch, less spin, more distance, etc. Aside from forgiveness, these are things seemingly opposite of what I need for my game.

> >

> > Went to two separate fitters and while I have a good idea on shaft, LLL, they recommended polar opposite style of heads. One more “players” style the other “SGI”.

> >

> > Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for any help you might be able to share.

>

> I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

>

> Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

 

I'm similar to OP - former professional athlete with respectable club head speed and I never got along with GI irons. Playing for 18 months and handicap trending below 6 right now. I don't think SGI is always the answer. I've played players CBs and blades with a lot of success. I'd say AP2 would be a good option for him. That said, I'm happy to come to Burlington and you can prove me wrong in the studio!

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > @Sparty47 said:

> > > Hello All, new to the forum and seeking some wisdom from you all.

> > >

> > > Started golfing seriously in Feb. of this year and looking to replace my old irons. Current gamers are some Callaway Diablo Edge irons/hybrids. They’re “R” flex w standard LLL.

> > >

> > > Little info on my game... I’m a younger guy and former athlete so don’t have any problem generating club head speed (7 iron 105+mph) but my ball striking is not good (yet?). I’ve taken a few lessons and the pro insists I have a “good” swing just lack consistency in my sequence/delivery. Also said I NEED new irons, “R flex” with my speed and fast tempo is a bad combo. Also the heads I’m using have very poor feedback on strikes.

> > >

> > > To my question:

> > >

> > > Which category of irons should I be looking at?

> > >

> > > SGI and GI seem to be aimed at those seeking higher launch, less spin, more distance, etc. Aside from forgiveness, these are things seemingly opposite of what I need for my game.

> > >

> > > Went to two separate fitters and while I have a good idea on shaft, LLL, they recommended polar opposite style of heads. One more “players” style the other “SGI”.

> > >

> > > Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for any help you might be able to share.

> >

> > I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

> >

> > Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

>

> I'm similar to OP - former professional athlete with respectable club head speed and I never got along with GI irons. Playing for 18 months and handicap trending below 6 right now. I don't think SGI is always the answer. I've played players CBs and blades with a lot of success. I'd say AP2 would be a good option for him. That said, I'm happy to come to Burlington and you can prove me wrong in the studio!

 

No need to prove anyone wrong. You like what you like. You're currently a 7 handicap so you could handle player's CBs just fine. The OP has been saying they are a pretty high handicap at the moment so something more forigiving is definitely going to help! You're welcome to come in obviously but there are players who hit smaller heads better (shallow players usually) so it doesn't surprise me.

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> @phatchrisrules said:

> > @balls_deep said:

> > > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > > @Sparty47 said:

> > > > Hello All, new to the forum and seeking some wisdom from you all.

> > > >

> > > > Started golfing seriously in Feb. of this year and looking to replace my old irons. Current gamers are some Callaway Diablo Edge irons/hybrids. They’re “R” flex w standard LLL.

> > > >

> > > > Little info on my game... I’m a younger guy and former athlete so don’t have any problem generating club head speed (7 iron 105+mph) but my ball striking is not good (yet?). I’ve taken a few lessons and the pro insists I have a “good” swing just lack consistency in my sequence/delivery. Also said I NEED new irons, “R flex” with my speed and fast tempo is a bad combo. Also the heads I’m using have very poor feedback on strikes.

> > > >

> > > > To my question:

> > > >

> > > > Which category of irons should I be looking at?

> > > >

> > > > SGI and GI seem to be aimed at those seeking higher launch, less spin, more distance, etc. Aside from forgiveness, these are things seemingly opposite of what I need for my game.

> > > >

> > > > Went to two separate fitters and while I have a good idea on shaft, LLL, they recommended polar opposite style of heads. One more “players” style the other “SGI”.

> > > >

> > > > Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for any help you might be able to share.

> > >

> > > I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

> > >

> > > Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

> >

> > I'm similar to OP - former professional athlete with respectable club head speed and I never got along with GI irons. Playing for 18 months and handicap trending below 6 right now. I don't think SGI is always the answer. I've played players CBs and blades with a lot of success. I'd say AP2 would be a good option for him. That said, I'm happy to come to Burlington and you can prove me wrong in the studio!

>

> No need to prove anyone wrong. You like what you like. You're currently a 7 handicap so you could handle player's CBs just fine. The OP has been saying they are a pretty high handicap at the moment so something more forigiving is definitely going to help! You're welcome to come in obviously but there are players who hit smaller heads better (shallow players usually) so it doesn't surprise me.

 

Sorry I hope that didn't come across as combative, I'm actually quite interested to see if you could give me something more helpful that I still find playable. The Hot Metal Pro has caught my eye - lots of help with little offset. My issues with SGI are the large loft gaps in scoring clubs. I've been talking with another member who is a very good golfer about his move to game improvement. I think of it like a GI 8 iron with 35 degrees of loft ordered .25 over length is just a 7 iron in traditional lofts. The issue is when you move to 9-GW how far are these thing going? Partial wedges are not the strong suit of most higher handicaps and it seems that this kind of club forces that.

 

Anyways I'd love to come in at some point. I had a lot of trouble with my current clubs until I got them all bent flat. I haven't gotten a fitting since I was a 15 HC so I'm sure a lot has changed.

 

To OP - I'd go something that has control - you definitely aren't lacking distance! Ap2 would be a good call but I'd recommend a fitting.

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Find a good fitter and get fit. Take the time and do it right.

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9 Callaway Mavrk Sub Zero with Ventus Black 7X

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19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

4 Utility Sub70 699u 22 degree Proforce V2

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> @Sparty47 said:

> Yeah, I've looked at enough threads lately to know that when someone talks about how "fast" their clubhead speed is, they're quickly called out for BS. So I post this knowing full well someone will try to hammer me for it lol, but I was a professional athlete as well and really do have some power. I have looked into competing in long drive.

>

> This pic is from two days ago on a launch monitor at a local PGA Tour Superstore...

> ponaqa2o5qw4.jpg

>

> This was the longest carry distance, but not the fastest clubhead speed I recorded. Granted I'm swinging out of my shoes here and would not swing like this on the course. (Yes, I am actively working on slowing my swing down to gain control)

>

> I only post this to give more insight and demonstrate why I think two fitters now have kind of thrown up their hands a bit... Which led me here. I don't think I really fit nicely in any iron category considering everything I'm looking for is the opposite of what most want.

>

> I'm sure you've heard it all before but when I say I hit it high, it really does go too high and spin too much. To be clear, I make good contact with the ball but my poor swing consistency means my misses are BIG misses.

>

> Any further suggestions are always appreciated.

>

>

 

I have to ask, 3 yards of roll on a 355 yard drive??

 

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Life is like riding a bicycle, to keep your balance you must keep moving

 

 

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> @lawsonman said:

> > @Sparty47 said:

> > Yeah, I've looked at enough threads lately to know that when someone talks about how "fast" their clubhead speed is, they're quickly called out for BS. So I post this knowing full well someone will try to hammer me for it lol, but I was a professional athlete as well and really do have some power. I have looked into competing in long drive.

> >

> > This pic is from two days ago on a launch monitor at a local PGA Tour Superstore...

> > ponaqa2o5qw4.jpg

> >

> > This was the longest carry distance, but not the fastest clubhead speed I recorded. Granted I'm swinging out of my shoes here and would not swing like this on the course. (Yes, I am actively working on slowing my swing down to gain control)

> >

> > I only post this to give more insight and demonstrate why I think two fitters now have kind of thrown up their hands a bit... Which led me here. I don't think I really fit nicely in any iron category considering everything I'm looking for is the opposite of what most want.

> >

> > I'm sure you've heard it all before but when I say I hit it high, it really does go too high and spin too much. To be clear, I make good contact with the ball but my poor swing consistency means my misses are BIG misses.

> >

> > Any further suggestions are always appreciated.

> >

> >

>

> I have to ask, 3 yards of roll on a 355 yard drive??

 

Launch and spin are both low as well... he should have way more roll out. Oh well.

As of  10/11/2021

9 Callaway Mavrk Sub Zero with Ventus Black 7X

13 Degree Srixon 3 wood Project X Black 6.5

19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

4 Utility Sub70 699u 22 degree Proforce V2

5-GW Srixon Zx5 with Project X 6.5

Sub70 286 54

Sub70 JB Low Bounce 58

SeeMore milled Tri-Mallet fit and built at SeeMore 

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > @balls_deep said:

> > > > @phatchrisrules said:

> > > > > @Sparty47 said:

> > > > > Hello All, new to the forum and seeking some wisdom from you all.

> > > > >

> > > > > Started golfing seriously in Feb. of this year and looking to replace my old irons. Current gamers are some Callaway Diablo Edge irons/hybrids. They’re “R” flex w standard LLL.

> > > > >

> > > > > Little info on my game... I’m a younger guy and former athlete so don’t have any problem generating club head speed (7 iron 105+mph) but my ball striking is not good (yet?). I’ve taken a few lessons and the pro insists I have a “good” swing just lack consistency in my sequence/delivery. Also said I NEED new irons, “R flex” with my speed and fast tempo is a bad combo. Also the heads I’m using have very poor feedback on strikes.

> > > > >

> > > > > To my question:

> > > > >

> > > > > Which category of irons should I be looking at?

> > > > >

> > > > > SGI and GI seem to be aimed at those seeking higher launch, less spin, more distance, etc. Aside from forgiveness, these are things seemingly opposite of what I need for my game.

> > > > >

> > > > > Went to two separate fitters and while I have a good idea on shaft, LLL, they recommended polar opposite style of heads. One more “players” style the other “SGI”.

> > > > >

> > > > > Sorry for the long post, but thank you in advance for any help you might be able to share.

> > > >

> > > > I have been a fitter for over 15 years and against the recommendations here I would probably put you in something Game Improvement. You only took it up in February, golf is a marathon, not a sprint. You don't want to get something like a Player's CB that the guys on tour play, you will learn to hate the game very quickly in between brief moments of a pure strike where you feel like a tour pro. Trust me, all of the guys I work with, including myself are players that range from +2 handicaps (can shoot under par) to about 10 handicaps and only one of us has irons that would be deemed players, the rest use irons that are either player's distance or game improvement. A player's distance iron is basically the same as a game improvement iron it just has a slightly smaller sole width and less offset (most of the time but not always).

> > > >

> > > > Go get yourself a set of Mizuno Hot Metals, Ping G410s, Callaway Rogues, or Cobra F9s with the appropriate weight and flex shafts and go have fun. You will probably want to upgrade in a few years when you can shoot in the 80s consistently without breaking a sweat, but until then, just focus on making good contact. Don't worry about "feedback" right now, that's the biggest myth in golf. The ball mark on the face will tell you where you hit it and to be honest most amateurs have no idea where they hit it on the face anyway as they lack the feel necessary to discern this. I can't tell you the amount of people who say something along the lines of "wow that felt good" only to look at the strikepoint on the screen and see it way toe or heel side. You don't need feedback to make a good swing, by the time you've received the feedback the swing has already been made. Get yourself something easy to hit that launches higher with lots of vertical stopping power (high peak height, steep descent angle, higher initial launch angle) as this is going to be much easier to stop consistently compared to spin rates which rely far too much on strike location. Little known fact is that there is 1800 RPMs of difference from the high toe to the low heel in terms of spin rate if the ball is struck there, while the high launch parameters I have listed can assist in helping the ball stop more easily. Further, a simple change to a spinnier golf ball will also help this (if needed).

> > >

> > > I'm similar to OP - former professional athlete with respectable club head speed and I never got along with GI irons. Playing for 18 months and handicap trending below 6 right now. I don't think SGI is always the answer. I've played players CBs and blades with a lot of success. I'd say AP2 would be a good option for him. That said, I'm happy to come to Burlington and you can prove me wrong in the studio!

> >

> > No need to prove anyone wrong. You like what you like. You're currently a 7 handicap so you could handle player's CBs just fine. The OP has been saying they are a pretty high handicap at the moment so something more forigiving is definitely going to help! You're welcome to come in obviously but there are players who hit smaller heads better (shallow players usually) so it doesn't surprise me.

>

> Sorry I hope that didn't come across as combative, I'm actually quite interested to see if you could give me something more helpful that I still find playable. The Hot Metal Pro has caught my eye - lots of help with little offset. My issues with SGI are the large loft gaps in scoring clubs. I've been talking with another member who is a very good golfer about his move to game improvement. I think of it like a GI 8 iron with 35 degrees of loft ordered .25 over length is just a 7 iron in traditional lofts. The issue is when you move to 9-GW how far are these thing going? Partial wedges are not the strong suit of most higher handicaps and it seems that this kind of club forces that.

>

> Anyways I'd love to come in at some point. I had a lot of trouble with my current clubs until I got them all bent flat. I haven't gotten a fitting since I was a 15 HC so I'm sure a lot has changed.

>

> To OP - I'd go something that has control - you definitely aren't lacking distance! Ap2 would be a good call but I'd recommend a fitting.

 

Makes sense. Shoot me a PM sometime if you want to do that.

 

To the OP, you definitely need something heavier and stiffer than the 110g reggies you have in there. You will probably walk out with X100 or PX 6.5/7.0. At your speed though, I'd strongly recommend the X7. Yes, it's a bit more boutique but it's 2X as stiff an X100 at the butt and 3X as stiff at the tip. If you are carrying 350 with a driver, this is about the only shaft in the world that isn't going to feel super light and soft to you.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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I’ll look into the X7 for sure! Have swung X100 and liked them. Never the PX.

 

Both previous fitters used a “shaft optimizer” on me and in both cases the KBS C-Taper 130x was the top recommendation. However both talked me out of even swinging it due to poor “feel”. Have also read very mixed reviews on here and other sites.

 

Curious what you think about it vs. the others mentioned?

 

 

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