New Maltby DBM Build Advice

[JDMRN81]

So I built a set of Maltby DBM's with C-taper lite shafts this winter for a backup bag. After playing multiple brand name sets this season, I keep coming back to the DBM's because they're awesome! The ones I currently have are lofted 2* strong throughout the set and I have no issues elevating but I'm concerned about the bounce (with recent swing changes I'm "digging" more). I'm considering getting another set but weakening the lofts to the below specs with gaps and shaft length included in the specs. I also included a screenshot of the standard specs for the heads. Just an FYI, I play standard length and lie in most of my clubs. Will have the lie's adjusted as well.

 

3 – 21* - 38.5

4 – 24* (3*) - 38

5 – 27* (3*) - 37.5

6 – 31* (4*) - 37

7 – 35* (4*) - 36.5

8 – 39* (4*) - 36

9 – 43* (4*) - 35.5

P – 48* (5*) - 35.25

G – 53* (5*) - 35.25

 


 

What do you guys think of this setup? Any suggestions on gapping and shaft length? I'm basically ignoring the number on the bottom of the club and playing close to what I traditionally play with loft/shaft specs but this allows me to get more bounce. Or, is the little change in bounce not going to be noticed to make a difference? Also, my LW will be a 58* MD4 or maybe get a 58* glide wedge. Thanks!

[Ace Underhill]

I just ordered a set last week of DBMs that Golfworks had a great "Player Pak" deal on with the black KBS Tour shafts. I went with their recommend standard lengths except for the PW which I added .25" so it wasn't the same length of the GW. I currently play the Bridgestone DPC and they have a little more bounce than these so interested on how the DBMs will play once I get back home later this week. I don't suspect the bounce to be an issue. My specs I had built are listed below:

 

4 iron: 38.50" (D1)

5 iron: 38.00" (D1)

6 iron: 37.50" (D1)

7 iron: 37.00" (D1)

8 iron: 36.50 (D1)

9 iron: 36.00" (D1)

PW: 35.75" (D1)

GW: 35.50" (D2-D3)

[JDMRN81]

> @"Ace Underhill" said:

> I just ordered a set last week of DBMs that Golfworks had a great "Player Pak" deal on with the black KBS Tour shafts. I went with their recommend standard lengths except for the PW which I added .25" so it wasn't the same length of the GW. I currently play the Bridgestone DPC and they have a little more bounce than these so interested on how the DBMs will play once I get back home later this week. I don't suspect the bounce to be an issue. My specs I had built are listed below:

>

> 4 iron: 38.50" (D1)

> 5 iron: 38.00" (D1)

> 6 iron: 37.50" (D1)

> 7 iron: 37.00" (D1)

> 8 iron: 36.50 (D1)

> 9 iron: 36.00" (D1)

> PW: 35.75" (D1)

> GW: 35.50" (D2-D3)

 

I thought about doing a players pak deal but I have a a compete set of recoil 110’s sitting in my closet I’m going to use. I don’t think bounce will be much of an issue either.

[Therty]

I'm pretty sure you're not going to be able to bend those irons 3+ degrees - the DBM finish makes them more brittle and I think Maltby recommends only 2 degree max bend. Something to keep in mind - plenty stories of people breaking them.

[Cwebb]

The sole design on the DBM's ,especially in the shorter irons and wedges, have enough "camber" and leading edge radius, to make them play with more "effective bounce" than their actual bounce angles would otherwise indicate.

 

Remember that the DBM designs are less bendable. I would not try to push them past 2* of bend at the max...unless you can convince the Golfworks to try it themselves

[JDMRN81]

> @Therty said:

> I'm pretty sure you're not going to be able to bend those irons 3+ degrees - the DBM finish makes them more brittle and I think Maltby recommends only 2 degree max bend. Something to keep in mind - plenty stories of people breaking them.

 

You can since they have a +/- 1* of deviation. So, for the GW (50* standard) they would hand pick a 51* and bend it to 53*. I confirmed this with a rep when I was contemplating lofts on my last set I purchased this past winter.

 

[Therty]

Boom. Glad you confirmed it - just didn't want to see you break an iron!

 

> @JDMRN81 said:

> > @Therty said:

> > I'm pretty sure you're not going to be able to bend those irons 3+ degrees - the DBM finish makes them more brittle and I think Maltby recommends only 2 degree max bend. Something to keep in mind - plenty stories of people breaking them.

>

> You can since they have a +/- 1* of deviation. So, for the GW (50* standard) they would hand pick a 51* and bend it to 53*. I confirmed this with a rep when I was contemplating lofts on my last set I purchased this past winter.

>

 

 

[Nessism]

The specs you want look fine to me. Why don't you just bend the set you have?

[JDMRN81]

> @Nessism said:

> The specs you want look fine to me. Why don't you just bend the set you have?

They've all ready been bent 2* strong through out the set and don't want to risk breaking. Also, I like to have a backup bag (I keep main clubs at my CC and another bag when I play other courses).

[ProfessorDave]

I would think that by adding bounce in the set you have bent strong it would help counteract some of the digging.

 

I have successfully bent Maltby clubs with the DBM finish 2 degrees without breakage, but it ain’t easy.

 

In any case, the DBMS are great clubs (I play the TE Forged, the non DBM version). The DBM Is on my wedges, though. Very durable finish.

[ProfessorDave]

Just re-read the original post and saw that you subtracted loft, and therefore bounce as well hence the digging. Must be too early for me!

[Popeye64]

My $.02 is if you build a new set leave them at the standard loft before you make any changes. See how they play and if you believe they are digging in them consider weakening the loft. I never found the DBM heads to be diggers with the sole they have. The MMBs on the other hand can be like backhoes.

[propman]

> @JDMRN81 said:

> So I built a set of Maltby DBM's with C-taper lite shafts this winter for a backup bag. After playing multiple brand name sets this season, I keep coming back to the DBM's because they're awesome! The ones I currently have are lofted 2* strong throughout the set and I have no issues elevating but I'm concerned about the bounce (with recent swing changes I'm "digging" more). I'm considering getting another set but weakening the lofts to the below specs with gaps and shaft length included in the specs. I also included a screenshot of the standard specs for the heads. Just an FYI, I play standard length and lie in most of my clubs. Will have the lie's adjusted as well.

>

> 3 – 21* - 38.5

> 4 – 24* (3*) - 38

> 5 – 27* (3*) - 37.5

> 6 – 31* (4*) - 37

> 7 – 35* (4*) - 36.5

> 8 – 39* (4*) - 36

> 9 – 43* (4*) - 35.5

> P – 48* (5*) - 35.25

> G – 53* (5*) - 35.25

>

> 

>

> What do you guys think of this setup? Any suggestions on gapping and shaft length? I'm basically ignoring the number on the bottom of the club and playing close to what I traditionally play with loft/shaft specs but this allows me to get more bounce. Or, is the little change in bounce not going to be noticed to make a difference? Also, my LW will be a 58* MD4 or maybe get a 58* glide wedge. Thanks!

 

Just buy my ptms - live dangerously B) !

[JDMRN81]

 

 

> @propman said:

> > @JDMRN81 said:

> > So I built a set of Maltby DBM's with C-taper lite shafts this winter for a backup bag. After playing multiple brand name sets this season, I keep coming back to the DBM's because they're awesome! The ones I currently have are lofted 2* strong throughout the set and I have no issues elevating but I'm concerned about the bounce (with recent swing changes I'm "digging" more). I'm considering getting another set but weakening the lofts to the below specs with gaps and shaft length included in the specs. I also included a screenshot of the standard specs for the heads. Just an FYI, I play standard length and lie in most of my clubs. Will have the lie's adjusted as well.

> >

> > 3 – 21* - 38.5

> > 4 – 24* (3*) - 38

> > 5 – 27* (3*) - 37.5

> > 6 – 31* (4*) - 37

> > 7 – 35* (4*) - 36.5

> > 8 – 39* (4*) - 36

> > 9 – 43* (4*) - 35.5

> > P – 48* (5*) - 35.25

> > G – 53* (5*) - 35.25

> >

> > 

> >

> > What do you guys think of this setup? Any suggestions on gapping and shaft length? I'm basically ignoring the number on the bottom of the club and playing close to what I traditionally play with loft/shaft specs but this allows me to get more bounce. Or, is the little change in bounce not going to be noticed to make a difference? Also, my LW will be a 58* MD4 or maybe get a 58* glide wedge. Thanks!

>

> Just buy my ptms - live dangerously B) !

HA! :)

 

[Howard_Jones]

> @JDMRN81 said:

> So I built a set of Maltby DBM's with C-taper lite shafts this winter for a backup bag. After playing multiple brand name sets this season, I keep coming back to the DBM's because they're awesome! The ones I currently have are lofted 2* strong throughout the set and I have no issues elevating but I'm concerned about the bounce (with recent swing changes I'm "digging" more). I'm considering getting another set but weakening the lofts to the below specs with gaps and shaft length included in the specs. I also included a screenshot of the standard specs for the heads. Just an FYI, I play standard length and lie in most of my clubs. Will have the lie's adjusted as well.

>

> 3 – 21* - 38.5

> 4 – 24* (3*) - 38

> 5 – 27* (3*) - 37.5

> 6 – 31* (4*) - 37

> 7 – 35* (4*) - 36.5

> 8 – 39* (4*) - 36

> 9 – 43* (4*) - 35.5

> P – 48* (5*) - 35.25

> G – 53* (5*) - 35.25

>

> 

>

> What do you guys think of this setup? Any suggestions on gapping and shaft length? I'm basically ignoring the number on the bottom of the club and playing close to what I traditionally play with loft/shaft specs but this allows me to get more bounce. Or, is the little change in bounce not going to be noticed to make a difference? Also, my LW will be a 58* MD4 or maybe get a 58* glide wedge. Thanks!

 

To me that set looks like 0.5" shorter than standard ? or did i miss something?

If you play "std" and want long irons thats easier to play, consider a 3/8" set up where the short end is "std" like this:

- #9 and shorter is what i consider "std", then 3/8" longer pr.club longer, ending with a #3 iron 0.8" shorter than std, vs you set up at 0.5" shorter. This way we can go shorter in the long end, but keep our stance in the short end.

 

 

Sets like this is often built to "poor mans MOI match" or a progressive SW slope of 0.5 SWP between irons, but we are free to use FLAT SW or what ever we like.

 

 

 

[JDMRN81]

Howard, I specifically mentioned I’m not concerned about the number on the bottom of the clubs. I like to play my 37” club in the 30-32* range and then progress 0.5” and usually have my wedges about same length or 0.25” because the gapping opens up a little (5*).

[Howard_Jones]

> @JDMRN81 said:

> Howard, I specifically mentioned I’m not concerned about the number on the bottom of the clubs. I like to play my 37” club in the 30-32* range and then progress 0.5” and usually have my wedges about same length or 0.25” because the gapping opens up a little (5*).

 

Yes i noticed that, but also that your wedges was shorter than normal, and that you mention "standard", so i thought i should suggest a 3/8" set up in case you did not know about that option.