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Want to buy FIRST SET Mizuno Blades ....Which set is Best?


Ryepatch

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I'll put in another vote for the MP 5s... great looking iron, feels great, and pretty forgiving for a blade. That being said, if I were you I'd consider going to a split set with something more forgiving in the longer irons. Flushing a blade 3-iron is an amazing feeling, but unless your ball striking is so good you're always hitting it in the middle, blades can be incredibly frustrating.

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This year, I've owned the MP-4 and MP-69 in full sets, and I have an MP-14 and JPX 900 Tour 6-iron in the apartment.

 

The MP-4 feels and looks the best of those options, to me. I've never hit the MP-5--the only knock I have against them is that the VCOG is a little bit higher than the MP-4, according to Maltby.

 

The MP-14 has a surprising amount of offset and a thick topline for a blade, but you can see how it defined the Mizuno feel. I think my MP-4 is slightly softer, but there's a fair amount of years between those two irons.

 

The JPX feels the worst of the bunch, with the MP-69 in 3rd. I thought there's a noticeable difference between the MP-69 and MP-4, which is why I flipped the MP-69s.

 

The MP-20 is very close to my MP-4 on feel, though the MP-4 has a smaller profile--if you wait a little, you can maybe try the MP20 against the MP18 and confirm that you like the way the MP20 feels/plays. If so, the MP-4 s probably in the sweet spot of low price, great looks, and mizuno feel.

 

Have fun with the purchase--these things are cheap enough that it's hard to make a real mistake.

 

 

 

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> @gwelfgulfer said:

> > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> >

> > BT

>

> Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

 

Nothing wrong with buying used but new Mizuno irons allows you to go thru the fitting process for shafts, get the lie, loft, lengths, swing weights and grip all for no upcharge.

 

With a used set, your going to have the lies and lofts adjusted as they are always off. You’ll have to consider regripping .

 

Lastly, the shafts. All older ones are S300 and with older Mizuno lengths which are shorter to American specs., if that works for you?

 

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> @Chuck905 said:

> > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> > >

> > > BT

> >

> > Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

>

> Nothing wrong with buying used but new Mizuno irons allows you to go thru the fitting process for shafts, get the lie, loft, lengths, swing weights and grip all for no upcharge.

>

> With a used set, your going to have the lies and lofts adjusted as they are always off. You’ll have to consider regripping .

>

> Lastly, the shafts. All older ones are S300 and with older Mizuno lengths which are shorter to American specs., if that works for you?

>

 

Lol... Shorter to 'American' specs... You mean 1/4" and likely better for people vs. the ever increase in length to say things 'go further'... I'd love for more people to actually learn how to do things to their clubs. But as for the actual cost of me rebuilding a used set vs. new, its not even close. MP-18's are now on sale at GT for $1200 + tax, so $1356 tax in. I play DG TI shafts cause I think the shaft bands drop at least 2-3 strokes a round for me. That would likely be a $40 up charge at least per club. So another $280 as I would only order 7 clubs. I bought my set, with prefered shafts for $150. Used the rest of the season and regripped over the winter where I got my grips at 40% off. Pulled heads and changed ferrules, weighed everything and rebuilt. Had L/L checked and changed for $50. So I'm only into my set for under $270. Their build is no different than what I have, and I'm $1400 less. Rebuilding clubs isn't hard and takes minimal tools, but please don't think that a 'custom order' from any major OEM isn't anything more than a cut and glue job save for maybe Ping.

What's In The Ping Moonlite:
Ping Rapture '14 13*
Ping Rapture DI 18*
Titleist 690.CB 4/6/8/PW
Vokey TVD 54*
Odyssey Tank V-Line

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I started my mizuno journey with jpx-800's, then moved to MP-33's which I still own and am currently playing waiting for my new JPX HMP's to arrive. In the interim I played 59's, 15's, 25's, 18 MMC/SC, 15's again, 18 FH 4, MMC 5,6,7 SC 8,9,P. IMO stay away from the 18 SC's, I feel like they are a waste of production, I did not find them any more forgiving than the MB's. I thought my shaft choice the first time made me not like them, but in fact it was the SC heads that I didn't care for. Find a set of 18 MMC's or MB's if you want semi current. If not the 32's, 33's, 15's are what I'd be looking for. You should be able to find a nice set for under $350 and if you don't like them, break even. The 18's will be all over ebay once the 20's release.

 

If your coach wants you to move to blades to improve your swing and allow you to work on shot shaping and learning to feel impact position etc... I'd def find a set of 14's, 32's, 33's, 15's. No reason to spend all that money to learn that you may prefer something besides a MB set up 4-P. Something like a JPX forged might be a good option as well.

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> @Sfd732 said:

> >

> If your coach wants you to move to blades to improve your swing and allow you to work on shot shaping and learning to feel impact position etc... I'd def find a set of 14's, 32's, 33's, 15's. No reason to spend all that money to learn that you may prefer something besides a MB set up 4-P.

 

This

 

 

What's In The Ping Moonlite:
Ping Rapture '14 13*
Ping Rapture DI 18*
Titleist 690.CB 4/6/8/PW
Vokey TVD 54*
Odyssey Tank V-Line

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> @gwelfgulfer said:

> > @Chuck905 said:

> > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> > > >

> > > > BT

> > >

> > > Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

> >

> > Nothing wrong with buying used but new Mizuno irons allows you to go thru the fitting process for shafts, get the lie, loft, lengths, swing weights and grip all for no upcharge.

> >

> > With a used set, your going to have the lies and lofts adjusted as they are always off. You’ll have to consider regripping .

> >

> > Lastly, the shafts. All older ones are S300 and with older Mizuno lengths which are shorter to American specs., if that works for you?

> >

>

> Lol... Shorter to 'American' specs... You mean 1/4" and likely better for people vs. the ever increase in length to say things 'go further'... I'd love for more people to actually learn how to do things to their clubs. But as for the actual cost of me rebuilding a used set vs. new, its not even close. MP-18's are now on sale at GT for $1200 + tax, so $1356 tax in. I play DG TI shafts cause I think the shaft bands drop at least 2-3 strokes a round for me. That would likely be a $40 up charge at least per club. So another $280 as I would only order 7 clubs. I bought my set, with prefered shafts for $150. Used the rest of the season and regripped over the winter where I got my grips at 40% off. Pulled heads and changed ferrules, weighed everything and rebuilt. Had L/L checked and changed for $50. So I'm only into my set for under $270. Their build is no different than what I have, and I'm $1400 less. Rebuilding clubs isn't hard and takes minimal tools, but please don't think that a 'custom order' from any major OEM isn't anything more than a cut and glue job save for maybe Ping.

 

You enjoy that and have the skill to do it. I don’t have the time to wait for winter sales lol, nor tools, nor skills, patience, I rather pay and play now. In Saskatchewan, the summers are short and is 1.5 hours to the closest GT or work with my local golf professional.

 

For example, I’d like to upgrade my shafts in my 900T irons but after all the materials and labor, I’m 2/3 of the cost all the way there to new irons that I can just order them and play immediately.

 

As for a Mizuno specs, they play off a 63* lie , 46* loft and 1/4” short off the PW, I play off a 66* lie, 49* loft + 1/2” to Mizuno old specs. On top of that, I prefer Px 6.0 shafts.

 

The 1/4” short is a deal breaker for me. With American specs, I get away with it since the butt is still within my hands. I prefer my left hand to be below the border of the butt hence why old Mizuno specs are a deal breaker for me. Lol their grips don’t even reach my left hand at address. Yeah so it is big deal to me!

 

All the older mentioned 5s, 4s and 18s, are my top choices but they’ll come with S300 stock shafts in most cases. It was easier for me to trade in my 18s for Callaway Apex 18mbs which I put ahead of the 4s in feel and looks, it also came with in a mb two iron as well (not offered by Mizuno). I had my two lofted down to 17* and up two degrees and it’s a fairway finder off the tee.

 

I’ve own Mizuno driving irons in the past, they really suck in this category.

 

 

Just be aware of the specs and compromises when buying used.

 

 

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MP4

 

Driver: still looking.....
4 Wood: Kamui Pro TP-XF 17.5° + Fujikura Speeder Evolution VI FW70x @ 42 1/2".

7 Wood: Kamui Pro TP-XF 22.5° + Fujikura Speeder Evolution VI FW80x @ 41 3/4".
Irons: Kamui Pro KP-102 5i-PW + KBS TGI 110 + 1/2".
Wedges: Callaway Jaws Forged 50°/55°/60° + KBS C-Taper
Putter: SeeMore SB1 + Accra FX300.

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> @Chuck905 said:

> > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > @Chuck905 said:

> > > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > > > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> > > > >

> > > > > BT

> > > >

> > > > Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

> > >

> > > Nothing wrong with buying used but new Mizuno irons allows you to go thru the fitting process for shafts, get the lie, loft, lengths, swing weights and grip all for no upcharge.

> > >

> > > With a used set, your going to have the lies and lofts adjusted as they are always off. You’ll have to consider regripping .

> > >

> > > Lastly, the shafts. All older ones are S300 and with older Mizuno lengths which are shorter to American specs., if that works for you?

> > >

> >

> > Lol... Shorter to 'American' specs... You mean 1/4" and likely better for people vs. the ever increase in length to say things 'go further'... I'd love for more people to actually learn how to do things to their clubs. But as for the actual cost of me rebuilding a used set vs. new, its not even close. MP-18's are now on sale at GT for $1200 + tax, so $1356 tax in. I play DG TI shafts cause I think the shaft bands drop at least 2-3 strokes a round for me. That would likely be a $40 up charge at least per club. So another $280 as I would only order 7 clubs. I bought my set, with prefered shafts for $150. Used the rest of the season and regripped over the winter where I got my grips at 40% off. Pulled heads and changed ferrules, weighed everything and rebuilt. Had L/L checked and changed for $50. So I'm only into my set for under $270. Their build is no different than what I have, and I'm $1400 less. Rebuilding clubs isn't hard and takes minimal tools, but please don't think that a 'custom order' from any major OEM isn't anything more than a cut and glue job save for maybe Ping.

>

> You enjoy that and have the skill to do it. I don’t have the time to wait for winter sales lol, nor tools, nor skills, patience, I rather pay and play now. In Saskatchewan, the summers are short and is 1.5 hours to the closest GT or work with my local golf professional.

>

> For example, I’d like to upgrade my shafts in my 900T irons but after all the materials and labor, I’m 2/3 of the cost all the way there to new irons that I can just order them and play immediately.

>

> As for a Mizuno specs, they play off a 63* lie , 46* loft and 1/4” short off the PW, I play off a 66* lie, 49* loft + 1/2” to Mizuno old specs. On top of that, I prefer Px 6.0 shafts.

>

> The 1/4” short is a deal breaker for me. With American specs, I get away with it since the butt is still within my hands. I prefer my left hand to be below the border of the butt hence why old Mizuno specs are a deal breaker for me. Lol their grips don’t even reach my left hand at address. Yeah so it is big deal to me!

>

> All the older mentioned 5s, 4s and 18s, are my top choices but they’ll come with S300 stock shafts in most cases. It was easier for me to trade in my 18s for Callaway Apex 18mbs which I put ahead of the 4s in feel and looks, it also came with in a mb two iron as well (not offered by Mizuno). I had my two lofted down to 17* and up two degrees and it’s a fairway finder off the tee.

>

> I’ve own Mizuno driving irons in the past, they really suck in this category.

>

>

> Just be aware of the specs and compromises when buying used.

>

>

 

I don't 'have to wait for winter sales', but find it embarrassing to actually pay retail pricing for things. Having worked in the industry for almost 10 years, there basically zero chance I'll ever buy something new/retail pricing ever. I also drink tea and not koolaid, so have that going for me as well. You once again try to point out that older models came with stock S300s, and twice I've pointed out that I got my set with a different set of shafts, so koodoos to ignoring that to further your point. This isn't a 'being cheap' thing, I can easily run out an buy a full bag of XYZ if I actually thought they were better, I don't see it, so I put that money towards 3 other hobbies. Plus, having pride in building your own set has its virtues, right there with my stroke reducing shaft bands...

What's In The Ping Moonlite:
Ping Rapture '14 13*
Ping Rapture DI 18*
Titleist 690.CB 4/6/8/PW
Vokey TVD 54*
Odyssey Tank V-Line

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> @gwelfgulfer said:

> > @Chuck905 said:

> > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > @Chuck905 said:

> > > > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > > > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > > > > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> > > > > >

> > > > > > BT

> > > > >

> > > > > Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

> > > >

> > > > Nothing wrong with buying used but new Mizuno irons allows you to go thru the fitting process for shafts, get the lie, loft, lengths, swing weights and grip all for no upcharge.

> > > >

> > > > With a used set, your going to have the lies and lofts adjusted as they are always off. You’ll have to consider regripping .

> > > >

> > > > Lastly, the shafts. All older ones are S300 and with older Mizuno lengths which are shorter to American specs., if that works for you?

> > > >

> > >

> > > Lol... Shorter to 'American' specs... You mean 1/4" and likely better for people vs. the ever increase in length to say things 'go further'... I'd love for more people to actually learn how to do things to their clubs. But as for the actual cost of me rebuilding a used set vs. new, its not even close. MP-18's are now on sale at GT for $1200 + tax, so $1356 tax in. I play DG TI shafts cause I think the shaft bands drop at least 2-3 strokes a round for me. That would likely be a $40 up charge at least per club. So another $280 as I would only order 7 clubs. I bought my set, with prefered shafts for $150. Used the rest of the season and regripped over the winter where I got my grips at 40% off. Pulled heads and changed ferrules, weighed everything and rebuilt. Had L/L checked and changed for $50. So I'm only into my set for under $270. Their build is no different than what I have, and I'm $1400 less. Rebuilding clubs isn't hard and takes minimal tools, but please don't think that a 'custom order' from any major OEM isn't anything more than a cut and glue job save for maybe Ping.

> >

> > You enjoy that and have the skill to do it. I don’t have the time to wait for winter sales lol, nor tools, nor skills, patience, I rather pay and play now. In Saskatchewan, the summers are short and is 1.5 hours to the closest GT or work with my local golf professional.

> >

> > For example, I’d like to upgrade my shafts in my 900T irons but after all the materials and labor, I’m 2/3 of the cost all the way there to new irons that I can just order them and play immediately.

> >

> > As for a Mizuno specs, they play off a 63* lie , 46* loft and 1/4” short off the PW, I play off a 66* lie, 49* loft + 1/2” to Mizuno old specs. On top of that, I prefer Px 6.0 shafts.

> >

> > The 1/4” short is a deal breaker for me. With American specs, I get away with it since the butt is still within my hands. I prefer my left hand to be below the border of the butt hence why old Mizuno specs are a deal breaker for me. Lol their grips don’t even reach my left hand at address. Yeah so it is big deal to me!

> >

> > All the older mentioned 5s, 4s and 18s, are my top choices but they’ll come with S300 stock shafts in most cases. It was easier for me to trade in my 18s for Callaway Apex 18mbs which I put ahead of the 4s in feel and looks, it also came with in a mb two iron as well (not offered by Mizuno). I had my two lofted down to 17* and up two degrees and it’s a fairway finder off the tee.

> >

> > I’ve own Mizuno driving irons in the past, they really suck in this category.

> >

> >

> > Just be aware of the specs and compromises when buying used.

> >

> >

>

> I don't 'have to wait for winter sales', but find it embarrassing to actually pay retail pricing for things. Having worked in the industry for almost 10 years, there basically zero chance I'll ever buy something new/retail pricing ever. I also drink tea and not koolaid, so have that going for me as well. You once again try to point out that older models came with stock S300s, and twice I've pointed out that I got my set with a different set of shafts, so koodoos to ignoring that to further your point. This isn't a 'being cheap' thing, I can easily run out an buy a full bag of XYZ if I actually thought they were better, I don't see it, so I put that money towards 3 other hobbies. Plus, having pride in building your own set has its virtues, right there with my stroke reducing shaft bands...

 

Please take this immature bickering somewhere else. Thanks

 

- all of golfwrx

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> @musclefront said:

> > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > @Chuck905 said:

> > > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > > @Chuck905 said:

> > > > > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > > > > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > > > > > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> > > > > > >

> > > > > > > BT

> > > > > >

> > > > > > Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

> > > > >

> > > > > Nothing wrong with buying used but new Mizuno irons allows you to go thru the fitting process for shafts, get the lie, loft, lengths, swing weights and grip all for no upcharge.

> > > > >

> > > > > With a used set, your going to have the lies and lofts adjusted as they are always off. You’ll have to consider regripping .

> > > > >

> > > > > Lastly, the shafts. All older ones are S300 and with older Mizuno lengths which are shorter to American specs., if that works for you?

> > > > >

> > > >

> > > > Lol... Shorter to 'American' specs... You mean 1/4" and likely better for people vs. the ever increase in length to say things 'go further'... I'd love for more people to actually learn how to do things to their clubs. But as for the actual cost of me rebuilding a used set vs. new, its not even close. MP-18's are now on sale at GT for $1200 + tax, so $1356 tax in. I play DG TI shafts cause I think the shaft bands drop at least 2-3 strokes a round for me. That would likely be a $40 up charge at least per club. So another $280 as I would only order 7 clubs. I bought my set, with prefered shafts for $150. Used the rest of the season and regripped over the winter where I got my grips at 40% off. Pulled heads and changed ferrules, weighed everything and rebuilt. Had L/L checked and changed for $50. So I'm only into my set for under $270. Their build is no different than what I have, and I'm $1400 less. Rebuilding clubs isn't hard and takes minimal tools, but please don't think that a 'custom order' from any major OEM isn't anything more than a cut and glue job save for maybe Ping.

> > >

> > > You enjoy that and have the skill to do it. I don’t have the time to wait for winter sales lol, nor tools, nor skills, patience, I rather pay and play now. In Saskatchewan, the summers are short and is 1.5 hours to the closest GT or work with my local golf professional.

> > >

> > > For example, I’d like to upgrade my shafts in my 900T irons but after all the materials and labor, I’m 2/3 of the cost all the way there to new irons that I can just order them and play immediately.

> > >

> > > As for a Mizuno specs, they play off a 63* lie , 46* loft and 1/4” short off the PW, I play off a 66* lie, 49* loft + 1/2” to Mizuno old specs. On top of that, I prefer Px 6.0 shafts.

> > >

> > > The 1/4” short is a deal breaker for me. With American specs, I get away with it since the butt is still within my hands. I prefer my left hand to be below the border of the butt hence why old Mizuno specs are a deal breaker for me. Lol their grips don’t even reach my left hand at address. Yeah so it is big deal to me!

> > >

> > > All the older mentioned 5s, 4s and 18s, are my top choices but they’ll come with S300 stock shafts in most cases. It was easier for me to trade in my 18s for Callaway Apex 18mbs which I put ahead of the 4s in feel and looks, it also came with in a mb two iron as well (not offered by Mizuno). I had my two lofted down to 17* and up two degrees and it’s a fairway finder off the tee.

> > >

> > > I’ve own Mizuno driving irons in the past, they really suck in this category.

> > >

> > >

> > > Just be aware of the specs and compromises when buying used.

> > >

> > >

> >

> > I don't 'have to wait for winter sales', but find it embarrassing to actually pay retail pricing for things. Having worked in the industry for almost 10 years, there basically zero chance I'll ever buy something new/retail pricing ever. I also drink tea and not koolaid, so have that going for me as well. You once again try to point out that older models came with stock S300s, and twice I've pointed out that I got my set with a different set of shafts, so koodoos to ignoring that to further your point. This isn't a 'being cheap' thing, I can easily run out an buy a full bag of XYZ if I actually thought they were better, I don't see it, so I put that money towards 3 other hobbies. Plus, having pride in building your own set has its virtues, right there with my stroke reducing shaft bands...

>

> Please take this immature bickering somewhere else. Thanks

>

> - all of golfwrx

 

Not immature at all, just find it quite funny that in a supposedly informed group, the usual answer is to buy the latest and greatest because it is, well, supposedly better... To be telling someone to buy the newest thing basically as something to try out is about as bad an answer that can be given. I'll even steal a line, let's see if it sticks 'Seriously thin skin on people these days'...

What's In The Ping Moonlite:
Ping Rapture '14 13*
Ping Rapture DI 18*
Titleist 690.CB 4/6/8/PW
Vokey TVD 54*
Odyssey Tank V-Line

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From the more recent offerings, I would take the MP-4s, then the MP-5s. MP-69s have a thicker topline than the MP-4s if that bothers you, and, to my eye at least, a bit more offset. Not sure about MP-68s. I wanted to like them, but the ones I tried the most were about 5* too flat for me, so I didn't get great results.

From older offerings, I liked the MP-37s, but they weren't one of Mizunos most popular offerings. MP-33s are great, though the 8i~PW look a touch clunky to me (MP-37 PW also, to be honest). But that's purely subjective. MP-32s have a big following, though I've never played them.

Even further back? MP-14s because why not, but if you just want to try blades, you could get a set of MS-11s for cheap and give them a whirl. (maybe called MP-11s in North America?). Forgiving for a blade, and with tons of bounce, so you can bend them to more modern lofts without fear of digging.

 

Edit: forgot to mention, the second replier mentioned Wilson FG-62s. I put them in my bag at the start of the season, thinking I would switch between them and my MP-4s, but so far the FG-62s have stayed in the bag. Just thought I'd mention it.

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MP5 and MP18s are amazing. I haven't hit the older stuff (came from JPX-825Pros), but I think the MP18s should be getting a lot cheaper once the MP20s come out.

I play the MP18SCs in the 3-5, and do feel they offer a decent amount of extra forgiveness..... although i guarantee i'm just not as good as I want to be

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I think I must have bought one of the last new MP4 sets in the UK. Browsing the net back in 2015 (I think), I saw a brand new set at £399. I went into the local store the next morning where they were still marked up at £699. I asked the salesman to check their price on the website while I tested them on the range. He confirmed that they were £399 so of course I bought them...and they’ve been in the bag ever since.

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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There was a 4-PW of Yoro custom MP-4s in the local second hand shop that looked almost brand new. They were going for 30,000 yen plus tax, so around $300US. There's also a set of black ox MP-4s (5-PW) in the same shop going for 32,000 yen plus tax. Also, in that shop, you can usually negotiate a cheaper price.

Can't remember what I paid for my set (3-PW), but they are a Yoro custom set, and I got them for less than 30,000 yen on an auction site.

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Your next set of mizunos will be your best

PING G430 LST / 9* (dialed to 10.5*) / HZRDUS Smoke Green 60 6.5

Dark Speed LS / 3w (dialed to 15.5*) / Denali Blue 70TX

Mizuno Pro 24 Fli-Hi / 3i / HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5
Mizuno Pro 245 / 4-GW / KBS Tour X

SM9 Black / 54,58 / KBS Tour S+

____________________________________________

Odyssey AI-ONE 7CH 35”

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Wow Yoro customs??? Can you buy them for me? Haha

 

> @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> There was a 4-PW of Yoro custom MP-4s in the local second hand shop that looked almost brand new. They were going for 30,000 yen plus tax, so around $300US. There's also a set of black ox MP-4s (5-PW) in the same shop going for 32,000 yen plus tax. Also, in that shop, you can usually negotiate a cheaper price.

> Can't remember what I paid for my set (3-PW), but they are a Yoro custom set, and I got them for less than 30,000 yen on an auction site.

 

 

Paradym Triple Diamond 10.5*

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> @gwelfgulfer said:

> > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > @gwelfgulfer said:

> > > > @Ri_Redneck said:

> > > > Unless you want to buy an old set of clubs, I would stick with the newer models.

> > > >

> > > > BT

> > >

> > > Would this not be completely obvious? But personally, when talking blades, absolutely nothing wrong with older sets given how little changes in performance with on center strikes. My vote goes for the 33's.

> >

> > I take nothing for granted. I have no idea how familiar the OP is with all the MP models, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to cover my bases. Didn't want him to go searching for a specific model and all he can find is brown faced used clubs with shafts that could be rust-weakened from the inside. The MP33 is a great iron no doubt. But it was discontinued 13 yrs ago in '06. Best he can find is a refinished set and are those REALLY going to be just like the original finish? Who knows? Besides, nice MP33 sets are typically priced close to the same condition MP4 sets. MP5s run about $100-$150 more. MP4/5s are only a few years old and available online for a great price. Plus, they will most likely have newer modeled shafts.

> >

> > BT

>

> Why would he not be able to find a set of 33's in solid shape? I got my set 2 years ago for $150 CDN with TI S400 shafts in them with no browning and typical chatter. Unless you need to have something TODAY, stuff always pops up or you're able to find with a little searching.

>

> https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mizuno-MP-33-iron-set-3-pw-RH-DG-S300-MCC-4-Grips-MP-33-Blades/183926244090?hash=item2ad2dbc2fa:g:a80AAOSwvt9dXcF5

>

> This is up just today for $150 US obo, so likely $120. This is with basically no searching or waiting.

 

Sorry, our opinion of "solid shape" varies considerably. The short irons in the set you linked have chewed up faces (IMHO) and I would not pay anything for them. The OP can get whatever he wants in whatever condition he wants though. So, I differ.

 

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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