Tip weights into taper tip irons

[mvhoffman]

.355 taper tip irons... Ping i25

So should I just use .335 tip weights?

[Nessism]

Use .355" tip weights.

[Stuart_G]

Assuming steel shafts.

 

They can be found but not all sources offer .355 weights (e.g. golfworks.com)

 

For those sources that don't or if you already have them hanging around, the .335 weights will work just fine as well. Just wrap with masking tape to get them snug and avoid any potential rattle.

 

[Howard_Jones]

Mitchell brass tip weight works good for both .355 and .370 , but can be a tad small in some 0.370 shafts since they are designed for 0.355. i used a drop of epoxy on 2 sides of the tip wgt, no matter tip size to prevent the risk of rattle or noise.

 

https://www.mitchellgolf.com/product-category/re-shafting/weighting/brass-weights/

 

[mvhoffman]

Thanks guys. I haven't had to ask this question in a few years. I have gotten very good and independent with building but had a brain fart. If the lead tape doesn't stick, I will be getting tip weights and saving for a winter project

[dwb7272]

Maybe try tungsten powder with cork down the shaft. Can be done very easily after club is assembled if you have the steel ram rod to push the cork down. You can get swingweight to come out dead on using this method.

[azone]

forget the tip weights. tungsten powder, dab of epoxy on cork, ram it down. You want it stable with an exact swing weight, don't you?

[jah7838]

If you want to pull the shaft and reuse it for another head, tungsten powder and a cork will make it more difficult. The cork and epoxy will prevent the shaft from going into the hosel properly. The shaft will just push its way out of the hosel. I learned this personally a few years back.

 

You can pull the tip weight, clean the inside tip of the shaft, and then epoxy it into another head. If you have the grip on it, just poke a hole in the tape the air can escape that way.

[jll62]

> @jah7838 said:

> If you want to pull the shaft and reuse it for another head, tungsten powder and a cork will make it more difficult. The cork and epoxy will prevent the shaft from going into the hosel properly. The shaft will just push its way out of the hosel. I learned this personally a few years back.

>

> You can pull the tip weight, clean the inside tip of the shaft, and then epoxy it into another head. If you have the grip on it, just poke a hole in the tape the air can escape that way.

 

If you're trying to reuse the grip on the shaft, it isn't much extra work to drill out the cork from the tip.

[jah7838]

> @jll62 said:

> > @jah7838 said:

> > If you want to pull the shaft and reuse it for another head, tungsten powder and a cork will make it more difficult. The cork and epoxy will prevent the shaft from going into the hosel properly. The shaft will just push its way out of the hosel. I learned this personally a few years back.

> >

> > You can pull the tip weight, clean the inside tip of the shaft, and then epoxy it into another head. If you have the grip on it, just poke a hole in the tape the air can escape that way.

>

> If you're trying to reuse the grip on the shaft, it isn't much extra work to drill out the cork from the tip.

 

If you have the right supplies and the proper workspace, it’s not. I lived in an apartment with limited space and tools. I really only had a dremel and basic shafting supplies. The dremel bits that I had weren’t long enough to get to the cork, so drilling them out wasn’t much of an option at the time. Tip weights are easier for me. I’m not saying that cork and tungsten powder is a bad option. It works just fine.

[Stuart_G]

> @azone said:

> forget the tip weights. tungsten powder, dab of epoxy on cork, ram it down. You want it stable with an exact swing weight, don't you?

 

If you have to use epoxy to keep the cork down, you're using the wrong size cork plug.

 

Nothing wrong with cork and powder - but there is no real benefit of that method over tip weights if the head hasn't been installed yet. At least with steel shafts either are perfectly valid options.

[ScottyGilbert]

> @jll62 said:

> > @jah7838 said:

> > If you want to pull the shaft and reuse it for another head, tungsten powder and a cork will make it more difficult. The cork and epoxy will prevent the shaft from going into the hosel properly. The shaft will just push its way out of the hosel. I learned this personally a few years back.

> >

> > You can pull the tip weight, clean the inside tip of the shaft, and then epoxy it into another head. If you have the grip on it, just poke a hole in the tape the air can escape that way.

>

> If you're trying to reuse the grip on the shaft, it isn't much extra work to drill out the cork from the tip.

 

There is always the risk of debris remaining within the shaft and not coming out, meaning either removing the grip or trying to get the piece out through the grip air vent.....personal experience too (although more a problem when cleaning out graphite shaft pulls, that epoxy plug just wants to ride up into the shaft, no matter how carefully I drill it out....)

 

 

[m4harrah]

This might be a dumb question but any issues adding tungsten powder and cork to clubs that already have tip weights to fine tune/add a bit more?

[mvhoffman]

No issues at all.

[Stuart_G]

For steel shafted clubs, no problem at all. Lead/Tungsten powder down a graphite shaft is generally not a good idea (regardless of whether a tip weight was used or not).