Can gear help with fat shots?

[lennotdykstra]

Like instruction mostly focus on helping with slice. But biggest problem I see with amateurs are fat shots. Amateurs hit plenty of hooks too not just slice but on thing they all seem to do is farting it is it possible for clubs or other gear to help here?

[cgasucks]

No club will eliminate fat shots but those with flat soles with high bounce will help a bit. Lessons and practice are king.

[Golfjack]

Yeah even the SGI shovels will not save you from fat shots. Get lessons, because the resulting swing is going to be a very different feel compared to what you're doing now.

[lennotdykstra]

Shafts? Swing weight ?

[Double Dodger]

> @lennotdykstra said:

> Like instruction mostly focus on helping with slice. But biggest problem I see with amateurs are fat shots. Amateurs hit plenty of hooks too not just slice but on thing they all seem to do is farting it is it possible for clubs or other gear to help here?

 

“Traditional Meat Sauce”. Really?

5 post?

 

This has got to be a trolling effort......

[RobotDoctor]

There's nothing that can replace good instruction tips and drills. Developing muscle memory is critically important with any athletic move, a good golf swing not withstanding. Here is a drill sequence that seems to work. Give these a try, especially the towel and balance drills. I have not done the third drill but am willing to try to see if it helps me.

 

[JD3]

Op makes a good point. Plenty of double digit handicaps hit shots that start and stay left (pulls) or start left and go more left (hooks). I wonder if the equipment some time is actually encouraging that. With a normal good swing and closed club face and draw bias weighting.

[ChipNRun]

Fat shots are caused by swing flaws. But, fat shots come in a range. There's a chunk shot, a couple of inches behind the ball, and then there's one that's just a little fat. Wide soles or beveled soles (Hogan and Srixon) may lessen the bad effects of slightly fat shots - the irons won't bite excessively in turf. _BUT_, the "helpful" soles **will not save you from a chunk shot.**

 

For other things, left and right misses can be caused by swing flaws, and/or by improper equipment fit. For equipment, this sometimes has to do with lie angle. Assuming a right-handed golfer... if the lie angle is too flat, the golfer will tend to miss right. If lie angle is too upright, the golfer will tend to miss left. For details:

[https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1791816/how-much-does-lie-angle-effect-ball-flight](https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1791816/how-much-does-lie-angle-effect-ball-flight "https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1791816/how-much-does-lie-angle-effect-ball-flight")

 

The two biggest sources of **persistent miss patterns** are swing flaws and equipment problems.

Club fittings + { lessons + purposeful practice + playing reinforcement } combine to improve the golf swing.

[Valtiel]

> @JD3 said:

> Op makes a good point. Plenty of double digit handicaps hit shots that start and stay left (pulls) or start left and go more left (hooks). I wonder if the equipment some time is actually encouraging that. With a normal good swing and closed club face and draw bias weighting.

 

In my opinion, no. The thing I see just as commonly as the shots you're referring to is overly strong grips. People normally start out with some sort of slice problem and the quick fix is to crank the hands to the right (for a righty). I rarely if ever see the general golfing population with neutral or weaker grips. Not to say there is anything wrong with a strong grip, but its definitely the source of left misses when deployed solely as a slice fixer.

[Howard_Jones]

Fat shots is either the player who changes his spine angle or simply "moves" during the swing.

If its equipment related, its total weight/head weight and very easy to figure out.

 

Let the player swing the club, using ONLY his left arm, The club might be supported by the right hand to the top, but from the top and down, ONLY the left arm.

 

If total weight is the issue, his shoulder will "snap" at about 8 o clock. We can clearly see that weight is over and beyond what his shoulder can handle, so during play, he will need to "hold back" this drop with his right hand (loosing club speed), or a fat shot comes again.

 

Take the one arm swing to judge total weight, if you dont see a shoulder that "snaps", the players issue is strictly swing related and training is the way forward.

[lennotdykstra]

funny you say that, i hit my wedges most fat and my wedge shafts are heavier than irons because i was told thats what good players do.

[PixlPutterman]

Practice the hover shot, dont ground the club before swinging.

[Howard_Jones]

> @lennotdykstra said:

> funny you say that, i hit my wedges most fat and my wedge shafts are heavier than irons because i was told thats what good players do.

 

Wedges normally has a higher SW value than irons, and it does not hurt with some extra shaft weight either, the question is HOW much more weight, and if your irons was on the the boarder to max....

 

If we use the same shaft for wedge as for irons, we go "descending weight" since wedges has a higher BBGM than irons, and we butt trim further on a #9 or PW shaft, so we loose some shaft weight into wedges using the iron model. To make a "good match" on weight between irons and wedges, 5 grams up is a good rule of thumb, if we go higher, we will actually go UP in shaft weight, so when more shaft weight in wedges is advocated, its not really to go up, but KEEP shaft weight inline with irons...

 

Here is a few examples first DG S300 "all the way"....we loose about 5 grams from #9 to LOB wedge.

 

If we used S400 as GW, SW and LW shaft, it looks a bit better...but we still go lighter.....

 

If we wanted ALL shafts to actually have the same weight, it would look like this:

Average 1 grams extra pr wedge from #9, so LW should start from 135.3 grams, thats where those "5 grams up" comes from, we dont really add weight, we compensate for weight loss into wedges to keep shaft weight the same as irons.

 

So...if your wedges shafts started from a weight that was more than 5 grams up vs irons, you actually went up in shaft weight, and combined with higher SW, it could be over and beyond your limits and then we see those unwanted fat ones.

 

Simply try the one arm swing, and let someone watch your left shoulder, thats a good test to check is we have gone to far up in weight. A more difficult judgement is inspection of your swing during transition, but it take a more trained eye to see whats wrong then, but the players hips will "shoot" too much target line instead of rotating from the start. we all have "some" hip movement target line when we start transition, but when weight becomes to high, it will look like the club is frozen to something, and that the player need to "pull it free" using his body weight as helper for the task, or simply "jump start" the club, so we can clearly see his hips start rotating to late, and that messes up his tempo timing.