Driver shaft — weight ?

[Kale_m]

So thinking of picking up a higher end shaft to try and test over the winter.

 

0.7 cap

Driver swing speed -120-122mph

Playing a g410+ 9* with the Fuji pro 6xTS right now.

 

Thinking of trying the ventus or the hzdus hulk shaft.

 

How do you go about settling on a weight? 70g or 60g is what I am debating

[Z1ggy16]

By getting fit or a long period of self trial and error. There's no set, rule but somebody with your speed will be more likely to fit into the 70g driver shaft category.

[Kale_m]

> @Z1ggy16 said:

> By getting fit or a long period of self trial and error. There's no set, rule but somebody with your speed will be more likely to fit into the 70g driver shaft category.

 

Thanks. My miss is left, usually shows up when I try to step on one and get quick

[Z1ggy16]

> @Kale_m said:

> > @Z1ggy16 said:

> > By getting fit or a long period of self trial and error. There's no set, rule but somebody with your speed will be more likely to fit into the 70g driver shaft category.

>

> Thanks. My miss is left, usually shows up when I try to step on one and get quick

 

Again, not a universal truth but if you commonly miss left (as a righty) then more weight tends to help correct that.

[Booker]

I do it all by trial and error as well, build all my own stuff in the basement and take it to the range. I swing 114-115mph my miss is left as well. 60 grams tipped at least an inch with 208-210 head weight work but anything lighter is inconsistent. A 70 at that swing speed makes sense if the head is not overly heavy. A 60 tipped a fair bit with head weight may be another option.

When I was at pebble for the open I saw most players bags, 95% of the guys with your speed had 70 to mid seventys in their drivers.

[tbsbama]

My miss was left, 75 gram Tour Green fixed the problem.

[Kale_m]

> @Booker said:

> I do it all by trial and error as well, build all my own stuff in the basement and take it to the range. I swing 114-115mph my miss is left as well. 60 grams tipped at least an inch with 208-210 head weight work but anything lighter is inconsistent. A 70 at that swing speed makes sense if the head is not overly heavy. A 60 tipped a fair bit with head weight may be another option.

> When I was at pebble for the open I saw most players bags, 95% of the guys with your speed had 70 to mid seventys in their drivers.

 

The Fuji pro is tipped an inch. The head weight is 206g with the adapter.

[Howard_Jones]

> @Kale_m said:

> So thinking of picking up a higher end shaft to try and test over the winter.

>

> 0.7 cap

> Driver swing speed -120-122mph

> Playing a g410+ 9* with the Fuji pro 6xTS right now.

>

> Thinking of trying the ventus or the hzdus hulk shaft.

>

> How do you go about settling on a weight? 70g or 60g is what I am debating

 

We can simulate a higher shaft weight by adding lead tape to the shaft.

The balance point of the shaft is for most models about the middle, so simply find the middle of the shaft and mark it.

 

Now measure up the amount of lead tape you will add, and place its "head to grip direction" with the middle of the lead tape aligned with the shafts BP. Add it on the underside, so its not visible from address.

 

This way you can use the club and shaft you got, and dial in what weight that seems to fit you the best to avoid buying something that dont work as expected.

 

Shaft weight and resistance of shaft weight is also related to play length, so if we change play length, we should also change shaft weight if we wants to keep the same feel of resistance from the shaft itself. As a rule of thumb, we can use 5 grams uncut shaft weight pr. inch (1.0" shorter + 5 grams, 1.0" longer - 5 grams)

 

 

[Booker]

Are you having the same consistency with the 6 2.0 than a 70gram? I'm assuming you have played 70s in the past. I don't find any difference in ballspeed just dispersion, heavy slows me down. You can try adding 10 grams of lead tape below the grip to make it 70ish and see how that feels. See if that gives you better results or try adding some head weight.

I will say that fuji 2.0 ts is one stout shaft, as close to rebar as I've hit. The 70tx pro white felt much better with similar spin and launch. You may like that stable feel of the fujikura.

[Howard_Jones]

> @Booker said:

> Are you having the same consistency with the 6 2.0 than a 70gram? I'm assuming you have played 70s in the past. I don't find any difference in ballspeed just dispersion, heavy slows me down. You can try adding 10 grams of lead tape below the grip to make it 70ish and see how that feels. See if that gives you better results or try adding some head weight.

> I will say that fuji 2.0 ts is one stout shaft, as close to rebar as I've hit. The 70tx pro white felt much better with similar spin and launch. You may like that stable feel of the fujikura.

 

We have to add that weight and distribute it out from the shafts balance point who is about the middle of the shaft, thats where weight will end up on a higher weighted model, NOT "below the grip", that want give the right feel or resistance.

[Kale_m]

> @Booker said:

> Are you having the same consistency with the 6 2.0 than a 70gram? I'm assuming you have played 70s in the past. I don't find any difference in ballspeed just dispersion, heavy slows me down. You can try adding 10 grams of lead tape below the grip to make it 70ish and see how that feels. See if that gives you better results or try adding some head weight.

> I will say that fuji 2.0 ts is one stout shaft, as close to rebar as I've hit. The 70tx pro white felt much better with similar spin and launch. You may like that stable feel of the fujikura.

 

I have played 70g shafts before yes. Pro orange 70tx, hzdus yellow 70g x.

 

The pro white 70tx also has my eye. The Fuji does feel stable yes. But is the PW70tx that much different then the Fuji? Fuji has a soft handle with a slight Cb weight, where the tensei has a soft handle with a more traditional weighting.

With winter coming my tinkering bug has been woken.

[Booker]

I have owned the 70tx pro orange, i don't know if it's the counterbalance but I got a very high launch with it . Dispersion was not great, I get along better with traditional Mitsubishi shafts that are heavier in the tip.

Pro white to me felt tip heavier and a smoother load than the 2.0 fujikura. I grew up playing fairly heavy equipment so that's what I'm used to.

I hear you about winter coming I live a couple hours North of you in Edmonton, I'm constantly tinkering with shafts and heads. My basement looks like a used golf shop, driver shafts and heads everywhere. Our local shop has a couple of trackmans that keep me busy and they have a fair amount of exotic shafts. Another shaft you may like which I'm a fan of is the kuro kage Xt. Worked very well in my 400Lst.

[Kale_m]

> @Booker said:

> I have owned the 70tx pro orange, i don't know if it's the counterbalance but I got a very high launch with it . Dispersion was not great, I get along better with traditional Mitsubishi shafts that are heavier in the tip.

> Pro white to me felt tip heavier and a smoother load than the 2.0 fujikura. I grew up playing fairly heavy equipment so that's what I'm used to.

> I hear you about winter coming I live a couple hours North of you in Edmonton, I'm constantly tinkering with shafts and heads. My basement looks like a used golf shop, driver shafts and heads everywhere. Our local shop has a couple of trackmans that keep me busy and they have a fair amount of exotic shafts. Another shaft you may like which I'm a fan of is the kuro kage Xt. Worked very well in my 400Lst.

 

> @Booker said:

> I have owned the 70tx pro orange, i don't know if it's the counterbalance but I got a very high launch with it . Dispersion was not great, I get along better with traditional Mitsubishi shafts that are heavier in the tip.

> Pro white to me felt tip heavier and a smoother load than the 2.0 fujikura. I grew up playing fairly heavy equipment so that's what I'm used to.

> I hear you about winter coming I live a couple hours North of you in Edmonton, I'm constantly tinkering with shafts and heads. My basement looks like a used golf shop, driver shafts and heads everywhere. Our local shop has a couple of trackmans that keep me busy and they have a fair amount of exotic shafts. Another shaft you may like which I'm a fan of is the kuro kage Xt. Worked very well in my 400Lst.

 

Nice. Yah we can use the indoor trackman here and also the golf Canada center has an outdoor range all winter with heated stalls. So can see real ball flight

[justcallmemoses]

Is there a correlation between iron shaft weight and driver shaft weight?

 

I was fitted to dg 120 s300 iron shafts and dg 105 s300 in my utility. 60-65g driver range for me or is it a feel preference?

 

 

[Puttersaurus Rex]

3 hours ago, justcallmemoses said:

Is there a correlation between iron shaft weight and driver shaft weight?

 

I was fitted to dg 120 s300 iron shafts and dg 105 s300 in my utility. 60-65g driver range for me or is it a feel preference?

 

 

 

There is a correlation, but not a hard set rule.  See below:

 

 

[jpbova]

On 9/25/2019 at 12:32 PM, Z1ggy16 said:

> @Kale_m said:

> > @Z1ggy16 said:

> > By getting fit or a long period of self trial and error. There's no set, rule but somebody with your speed will be more likely to fit into the 70g driver shaft category.

>

> Thanks. My miss is left, usually shows up when I try to step on one and get quick

 

Again, not a universal truth but if you commonly miss left (as a righty) then more weight tends to help correct that.

I am the exception to this rule. The more weight you put in my bag the more the left miss comes into play. Could this be a function or tell of an early release?  I feel the weight coming through the down swing and turn my hands over sooner?

 

I went from 105 to 120 in my irons and a heavier a swing weight in my driver and 3w and the right miss is all but gone. 

 

 

[Howard_Jones]

2 hours ago, jpbova said:

I am the exception to this rule. The more weight you put in my bag the more the left miss comes into play. Could this be a function or tell of an early release?  I feel the weight coming through the down swing and turn my hands over sooner?

 

I went from 105 to 120 in my irons and a heavier a swing weight in my driver and 3w and the right miss is all but gone. 

 

 

Swing path changes with shaft weight, but a left mis is a face angle issue, but sure, if you go over the weight you should play, and start to "throw" the club from the top, your path could change to out in, and then even a square face angle is closed vs target line at impact and that ball has to go left.

Look into my DIY driver tune up, and read the chapter about Visual Fitting where you find a simple test for total weight. (post #8 in the tread)
 

 

[justcallmemoses]

On 10/11/2020 at 7:24 PM, Howard_Jones said:

Swing path changes with shaft weight, but a left mis is a face angle issue, but sure, if you go over the weight you should play, and start to "throw" the club from the top, your path could change to out in, and then even a square face angle is closed vs target line at impact and that ball has to go left.

Look into my DIY driver tune up, and read the chapter about Visual Fitting where you find a simple test for total weight. (post #8 in the tread)
 

 

I didn’t know swing path changes with weight. For a plane changer who drops it inside on the downswing...a lighter weight should help keep more on plane?

[Howard_Jones]

Rule of Thump
10 grams of shaft weight moves club head path by 1*
Up in weight = more in to out
Down in weight = more out to in.

The problem with this rule of thumb like most others is factor X, the player, we DONT respond like a "electro engine" we dont have the same power or tolerance for weight changes, and its also a question of if the player is on the edge for what he should play, then we might se larger numbers with only a few grams added....so its really "the direction of change we can expect", and thats it, but dont freak out if path moves the other direction, thats often what might happen, and thats why we always have to try off ideas real life to know how it will work.

And...even if wgt change is expected to have this effect, DONT misuse shaft weight and go over and beyond what you should play to fix a path issue. We can push it in the beneficial direction, just dont over-doo it, but find the golden middel way.

[justcallmemoses]

On 10/14/2020 at 1:08 PM, Howard_Jones said:

Rule of Thump
10 grams of shaft weight moves club head path by 1*
Up in weight = more in to out
Down in weight = more out to in.

The problem with this rule of thumb like most others is factor X, the player, we DONT respond like a "electro engine" we dont have the same power or tolerance for weight changes, and its also a question of if the player is on the edge for what he should play, then we might se larger numbers with only a few grams added....so its really "the direction of change we can expect", and thats it, but dont freak out if path moves the other direction, thats often what might happen, and thats why we always have to try off ideas real life to know how it will work.

And...even if wgt change is expected to have this effect, DONT misuse shaft weight and go over and beyond what you should play to fix a path issue. We can push it in the beneficial direction, just dont over-doo it, but find the golden middel way.

Hi Howard,

 

Curious to get your thoughts on shaft weight v swing weight.

 

They often say 3 wood shaft weight should be 5-15 grams heavier then driver shaft weight. Rahm is playing 75x in driver and 3 wood. Is swing weight used here to make the 3 wood shaft ‘heavier’ than the driver shaft??

[Howard_Jones]

5 hours ago, justcallmemoses said:

Hi Howard,

 

Curious to get your thoughts on shaft weight v swing weight.

 

They often say 3 wood shaft weight should be 5-15 grams heavier then driver shaft weight. Rahm is playing 75x in driver and 3 wood. Is swing weight used here to make the 3 wood shaft ‘heavier’ than the driver shaft??

Forget SW values, they make no sense what so ever, Total weight is #1, and we adjust that by shaft weight.  Here is my shaft weight progression chart, based on 5 grams uncut shaft wgt pr inch play length.

Head weight is fine tuning, NEVER to a "SW value" but to what feels and works as we want it, and we DONT use a SW scale to find that, but trial and error.