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DIY Driver tune up / DIY fitting


Howard_Jones

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Im not sure i got the question, but if its a chart for SW progression, its easy, but we should not use it for more than one "group of clubs".

 

Using progressive SW value to get as close as possible to the same MOI, we use this number.

 

1.33 SWP pr inch.

 

If we build a set of irons with the classic 4/8" between clubs, SWP progression will be 2/3 or 0.66 SWP between clubs.

 

If we used 3/8" between clubs, progression is still 1.33 pr. Inch, but now its 0.5 SWP between clubs.

 

When we go from #9 to PW its often only 0.25" down to PW.

Progression will then be 1/3 or 0.33 SWP from #9 to PW, but its still the same 1.33 SWP pr inch.

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No, Ascending mass is not the same as MOI matched.

 

We can build a set of MOI matched irons using both descending, constant or ascending wgt shafts, the main difference would be total wgt progression, but we can build all 3 shaft wgt types to the same MOI value.

 

Total wgt progression will be lowest when we use descending wgt, and highest when using AMT shafts. We go from about 15 grams pr inch via 16 Grams for const.wgt up to about 18 grams for AMT.

 

Since total wgt is fitting parameter #2 in importance, we must find both the right shaft wgt and total wgt, but also total wgt progression and shaft wgt type (desc,const or asc.wgt shafts)

 

Im not making alot of clubs now, ive officially retired (no such thing, we all know that..), but the latest 2 years ive ONLY build 3/8" sets, they are easier to build and play, thats how short that story is.

 

If you consider 3/8", do it, but do your homework first.

 

Depending on what iron we choose as starting point, we can end up totally different for how long your longest iron will be, and how short the shortest will be.

 

In general, most of us benefit from going shorter in the long end, not in the short,(especial when we get older) so a starting point from the 8, 9 or PW iron is the fast and easy, and if you dont mind a little lead tape on the heads, you can do it at home with standard tools like a good vise and chop saw.

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  • 1 month later...

@Howard Jones - does this seem like a reasonable order of operations?

 

I've recently gotten a few of shaftlock fitted heads (5w, 6i, 52°) with the intention of testing shafts over the winter. I've also been collecting shafts to test.

 

I've been playing single length since ~2014 but have only played them at 37" & 37.5", so I thought I'd test a range of lengths. Five identical iron shafts, 9mm steps, same 6i head, same grips. Hit 4 or 5 balls each, with clubface spray for marking impact groups (and perhaps Skytrak ball monitor). Cycle through the clubs until 1 or 2 lengths are the obvious winner.

 

Take the best length, once I've found one that is comfortable and controlled, and I'll trim the other models of shafts to this length and then cycle through 4 or 5 balls with each different shaft.

Again with clubface spray and ball launch monitor. I'm hoping that a bell curve of favorite shaft weights, or maybe bend profile, will emerge and then I can narrow down shaft candidates with the help of golfwrx and bend profile software.

 

Then l I can meaure MOI / MBI and and tweak / test that with lead tape.

 

Lastly I'll check and tweak loft & lie if necessary.

 

I could setup a 60 frames per as second camera and watch my own swings after the fact, but I'm not exactly a trained eye.

Eventually I intend do the same with the shaftlock fairway, and wedge heads.

 

does this sound like a good way to diy fit?

 

Comfort brings trust, trust brings consistency, consistency drops indexes.
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@Howard Jones - does this seem like a reasonable order of operations?

 

I've recently gotten a few of shaftlock fitted heads (5w, 6i, 52°) with the intention of testing shafts over the winter. I've also been collecting shafts to test.

 

I've been playing single length since ~2014 but have only played them at 37" & 37.5", so I thought I'd test a range of lengths. Five identical iron shafts, 9mm steps, same 6i head, same grips. Hit 4 or 5 balls each, with clubface spray for marking impact groups (and perhaps Skytrak ball monitor). Cycle through the clubs until 1 or 2 lengths are the obvious winner.

 

Take the best length, once I've found one that is comfortable and controlled, and I'll trim the other models of shafts to this length and then cycle through 4 or 5 balls with each different shaft.

Again with clubface spray and ball launch monitor. I'm hoping that a bell curve of favorite shaft weights, or maybe bend profile, will emerge and then I can narrow down shaft candidates with the help of golfwrx and bend profile software.

 

Then l I can meaure MOI / MBI and and tweak / test that with lead tape.

 

Lastly I'll check and tweak loft & lie if necessary.

 

I could setup a 60 frames per as second camera and watch my own swings after the fact, but I'm not exactly a trained eye.

Eventually I intend do the same with the shaftlock fairway, and wedge heads.

 

does this sound like a good way to diy fit?

 

Yes, but be aware of that play length and shaft wgt is related, and since they are both very important, testing different play lengths, but only 1 shaft wgt want do. Within a bag or a set, we can use 5 grams uncut wgt for each inch shorter, (shorter = plus wgt), so when you try the shortest option, it should be done with "the highest" shaft wgt, and the longest with "the lightest" option. to judge both length and wgt at the same time when you dial in whats right.

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@Howard Jones - does this seem like a reasonable order of operations?

 

I've recently gotten a few of shaftlock fitted heads (5w, 6i, 52°) with the intention of testing shafts over the winter. I've also been collecting shafts to test.

 

I've been playing single length since ~2014 but have only played them at 37" & 37.5", so I thought I'd test a range of lengths. Five identical iron shafts, 9mm steps, same 6i head, same grips. Hit 4 or 5 balls each, with clubface spray for marking impact groups (and perhaps Skytrak ball monitor). Cycle through the clubs until 1 or 2 lengths are the obvious winner.

 

Take the best length, once I've found one that is comfortable and controlled, and I'll trim the other models of shafts to this length and then cycle through 4 or 5 balls with each different shaft.

Again with clubface spray and ball launch monitor. I'm hoping that a bell curve of favorite shaft weights, or maybe bend profile, will emerge and then I can narrow down shaft candidates with the help of golfwrx and bend profile software.

 

Then l I can meaure MOI / MBI and and tweak / test that with lead tape.

 

Lastly I'll check and tweak loft & lie if necessary.

 

I could setup a 60 frames per as second camera and watch my own swings after the fact, but I'm not exactly a trained eye.

Eventually I intend do the same with the shaftlock fairway, and wedge heads.

 

does this sound like a good way to diy fit?

 

Yes, but be aware of that play length and shaft wgt is related, and since they are both very important, testing different play lengths, but only 1 shaft wgt want do. Within a bag or a set, we can use 5 grams uncut wgt for each inch shorter, (shorter = plus wgt), so when you try the shortest option, it should be done with "the highest" shaft wgt, and the longest with "the lightest" option. to judge both length and wgt at the same time when you dial in whats right.

that makes sense. I have about 13 iron shaft models on hand, and I'm trying to avoid buying multiples of each.

 

Would it be reasonable to use multiple lengths of one lighter model, and use lead tape just below the grip to try to match shaft weights during the 'shaft length' testing? I'm am not concerned about swingweight. I believe much more in total weight, moi, and maybe mbi.

 

Would I be better off testing a bunch of shaft models at X length, and then testing the "winners" at varying lengths, with the assistance of lead tape to match those up?

 

By the way, thank you so much for sharing your experience and insight with us!

Comfort brings trust, trust brings consistency, consistency drops indexes.
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We can always add weight by adding lead tape to a shaft, but we cant remove weight, so a light shaft is the right starting point.

Before you put it together, find the balance point of the shaft so you know where weight should be added to simulate the same model in a higher weight.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Howard, first, thanks for taking so much time posting on this website trying to help people, including a hacker like me. May God bless you for it.

 

I have a question I hope you can help me with. I have a Callaway 815 driver. Thank God above, I have hit some of my best drives last year and this year that I have ever hit, even though I have played very little. But, I lack consistency. I might push it, pull or sometimes hit it straight. I am thinking of trying a Project X Even Flow black 6.0 to replace my Fubuki ZT stiff shaft. But before I do, and since it's late in the year here, I want to try your suggestions early in this post. I believe I sometimes do better when I choke up the club some, but don't know for sure. What I really want to do is try to figure out where the balance point is, as you suggested, but you mention adding some grains to replace the fitting. I have the Opt-Fit adjustable hosel, but I don't know what it weighs or how much weight to add to replicate it after the head is removed from the shaft in order to find the balance point. Can you make a suggestion on what I should use to add to the head at the connection point (sorry for my terminology)? I find this very interesting on trying to dial in the sweet spot slight north and toward the toe, but need to find the balance point first.

 

Secondly, any thoughts on the Fubuki ZT vs. the Even Flow Black if I don't get the driver dialed in better? I am also considering lessons, but the reviews are so good on the Even Flow, it's kind of hard not to give it a try.

 

Thanks again for your help and posts. I appreciate it.

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im not sure what you ask for here, the balance point of the shaft is for most shaft about the middle of it.

We add weight at that spot if we want to try out a higher shaft wgt than what we got.

 

Head weight is a different thing. We loose feel of head wgt when we go shorter, so we most likely need to add some weight back, but how much is individual and what this testing will help you to find, so nobody is able to give you a number and say, do that, it will work....it does not work like that, you need to try it by adding and removing wgt until it works, without thinking in terms of numbers, only "more or less" until its like you want it to feel and work.

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I'll add another important tidbit, since driver is a club we all most likely swing harder than most any other club in the bag, what works for the rest of the bag may be completely useless to gauge specwise here. Also, hitting off a tee, with the ball 1.5"+ off the ground really changes ball perception and intent at impact, so it's entirely likely to have a different type swing/feel with the driver.

 

One real good word advice from someone who knows, when you find a particular setup that suddenly "works" make a note of everything: shaft weight/flex, headweight, swingweight, grip size, static weight, and length. Another important fact is that you won't always be "on" with driver everyday, so don't constantly tinker with changes or you'll never build a repeatable swing to measure your real long term results. If you experience several rounds of poor to below avg performance then a change may be in order. Don't tweak the settings or add/remove weight at the turn expecting anything other than a bandaid.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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im not sure what you ask for here, the balance point of the shaft is for most shaft about the middle of it.

We add weight at that spot if we want to try out a higher shaft wgt than what we got.

 

Head weight is a different thing. We loose feel of head wgt when we go shorter, so we most likely need to add some weight back, but how much is individual and what this testing will help you to find, so nobody is able to give you a number and say, do that, it will work....it does not work like that, you need to try it by adding and removing wgt until it works, without thinking in terms of numbers, only "more or less" until its like you want it to feel and work.

post-100881-0-39445100-1460136670.jpg

 

Howard, sorry, I was talking about balancing the head, can you tell me what I would need to add at the hosel to replicate the weight of the Opti-Fit, as you talk about on the first post of this thread? Thanks again

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Ahh, thats a different question....

 

Im not sure what the Opti-Fit connector has as wgt, but most is 4-7 grams, so if you add 5-6 you are more than fine.....it takes ALOT to move COG, so dont worry if you are a gram or 2 off, it does not matter at all.

 

Instead of using a shaft tip like i do on that photo, we can use a ball pen of the type we need to push a button on the back to get the tip of the pen out.

 

Put the pen in a vise with the tip up, but with the butt end so you can reach it.

Start with the tip in, and when COG is found, Hold the head in position with one hand, and push the button on the pen with the other to set a dot mark at COG. Its very easy, and makes a more precise spot than a shaft tip does.

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Grains or Grams? Howard's been talking about grams (gm), not grains (gr). Use of grains (where still used at all) are generally limited mostly to pharmaceuticals and weapon projectiles (arrows, bullets including propellants, e.g. gunpowder).

 

If you meant grams, standard density lead tape, 1/2" wide is typically around ~1/2-2/3 gram per inch, high density lead tape (1/2" wide) is around 1 gm per inch. As a reference to US coins, a penny is ~2.5 gm, a Nickle ~5 gm, dime ~2.3 gm, quarter ~5.7 gm.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is fantastic information and many thanks to KRW59 pointing me here. Some of you guys really have taken this to another level. I've been around golf for 50 years, as a high school/Junior competitor, PGA/LPGA Caddie, and just a lot of experience falling on both sides of the 50s-70s era vs. the Modern era of equipment and balls, but I've never seen anyone fit a club like this. I know it's a lot more time consuming and with the amount of real-world knowledge being a prerequisite , I'd rather be fit like this ANY DAY over a Trackman fitting even at the best of pro shops. I've been "fitted" three times in the last four years and each of them provided such conflicting information and recommendations that I don't have a bit of confidence in any of them. With this method, there should only be the slightest of variation depending on the intelligence and subjective mind of the fitter. Where are you located Howard? Anyone? With the price of equipment these days, getting it right can be a very expensive proposition, regardless whether the work is a club builde or DIY. A little travel to get it perfect might be the best economic choice. Thanks again....that's some great stuff.

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This is fantastic information and many thanks to KRW59 pointing me here. Some of you guys really have taken this to another level. I've been around golf for 50 years, as a high school/Junior competitor, PGA/LPGA Caddie, and just a lot of experience falling on both sides of the 50s-70s era vs. the Modern era of equipment and balls, but I've never seen anyone fit a club like this. I know it's a lot more time consuming and with the amount of real-world knowledge being a prerequisite , I'd rather be fit like this ANY DAY over a Trackman fitting even at the best of pro shops. I've been "fitted" three times in the last four years and each of them provided such conflicting information and recommendations that I don't have a bit of confidence in any of them. With this method, there should only be the slightest of variation depending on the intelligence and subjective mind of the fitter. Where are you located Howard? Anyone? With the price of equipment these days, getting it right can be a very expensive proposition, regardless whether the work is a club builde or DIY. A little travel to get it perfect might be the best economic choice. Thanks again....that's some great stuff.

 

Im sorry but im retired now, but 1 of my former students in club making and club fitting is running a True Temper Performance Fitting Center in Copenhagen Denmark (where Trackman comes from), and my shop was in Denmark too. im not aware of any place that does fitting this way in the US, and this is a concept ive put together myself based on the summary of my knowledge, and ive shared it with anyone who wanted to improve their clubs performance, and its easier than many thinks it is.

 

Im not sure how much of this tread you have been reading, but whats in post #1 is the method used, combined with VISUAL FITTING who is post #8

A fitting like that is what you get from Thomas Rosenberg in Copenhagen, where he cooperate with the PGA swing trainer John Davis and offer packs who contains both lesions and fitting where the swing trainer and the club fitter works as a team to make sure the player get the max out of it.

 

No its no 45 minutes fast food fitting available there....Thomas always make a test club the player use about a week before they meet up again to make sure it works as it was supposed to, so make sure you book a appointment in good time ahead, he dont handle that many customers the way he works since he takes no short cuts to anything.

 

 

Link to the description of Visual Fitting- how the club fitter uses his EYES to see if club specs is good for the player or not.

http://www.golfwrx.c...g/#entry7871739

 

Link to Made By Rosenberg in Copenhagen (he pick up at the airport if you come from abroad)

https://www.facebook...adebyrosenberg/

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  • 6 months later...

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> Here is an update with a few charts for you.

>

>

>

> The first is a chart for un-cut shaft weight of all your clubs.

>

> - This is MY suggestion for shaft weight progression, as we change shaft lenght.

>

> If you have a favorite club that just feels right, find the un cut shaft weight of that club, and locate it in the green fields in the bottom of the chart. In some cases you will find your favorit clubs shaft weight in 3 rows. The middle would be my suggestion for the rest of your bag, based on your favorite club. The row to the left is 5 grams down, the row to the right is 5 grams up.

>

>

>

> The chart is based on players ive been doing more than 1 club for, and i found a pattern behind it, who can be explained. In a set of irons with constant weight shafts, both shafts and grips is equal in weight, the only difference is the head. The clubs total weight changes by the same as head weight changes, and thats 7 grams pr. iron.

>

>

>

> In Drivers and woods we can use 10 grams pr. club like this

>

> - Driver = 198

>

> - 3W = 208

>

> - 4W = 213

>

> - 5W = 218

>

> - 7W = 228

>

>

>

> In woods we go 10 grams pr inch, or compared to irons, only 5 gram pr 0.5 inch, and then we will need some extra weight. If we use 5 grams plus on Shaft Weight pr inch shorter club, the total weight difference would be about 7.5 grams pr 0.5 inch in woods, compared to 7 grams in irons. Then we ends up with a "heft" in all your clubs who makes them more equal than many players got.

 

Hey Howard,

Bringing up an old thread. For the shaft fitting club length chart are the measurements you have listed cut measurements or to the end of the grip? Thanks

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Howard. Thanks for a great thread. Can I ask for some advice, please? I have a 10.5 tm m3 driver with a ys7 nanoreloaded stiff in it butt trimmed to play 44.5 inches. I really like the shaft but would say it plays a touch strong for me and tends to come high of the face. (i tee it down a bit to find the sweet spot). I`m about to fit the regular ys7 and tip trimming it 1.5 inches then butt trimming to play 44.5. I generally play stiffs with a swing speed of 104mph. I`m worried about how much to tip trim and any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

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  • 2 months later...

Just adding a few handy Workbench charts for DRY FIT of clubs.

 

Ive made this 4 charts so it should be easy to find the Grams needed to add a certain amount of SW depending on play length, the same a conversion chart for how many SWP a certain tip weight from 1 to 11 grams gives depending on play L.

There is also one chart for DRY FIT TO MOI VALUES, and if we hold them up against each other, we can see that 6 grams added to a 42.00" club adds 62.50 MOI points or 3.4 SWP.

 

GRAMS NEEDED to add a number of SW POINTs.

ejagkr3xmjoq.jpg

 

SW Points for each Gram added like using TIP weights from 1 to 11 grams. Can be used to judge SW vs. Screw weights on drivers, woods and hybrids (use the weight difference).

y1wof8mdni9v.jpg

 

HOW MANY GRAMS TO RESET SW VALUE WHEN BUTT CUT

(The daily question in the forum - for workbench use ONLY - DO NOT USE FOR FITTING). Play length is NOW value after going shorter.

drt2s4gpb4al.png

 

MOI POINTs for each gram added

9b6zzc30dh4x.jpg

 

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  • 1 month later...

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> Here is an update with a few charts for you.

>

>

>

> The first is a chart for un-cut shaft weight of all your clubs.

>

> - This is MY suggestion for shaft weight progression, as we change shaft lenght.

>

> If you have a favorite club that just feels right, find the un cut shaft weight of that club, and locate it in the green fields in the bottom of the chart. In some cases you will find your favorit clubs shaft weight in 3 rows. The middle would be my suggestion for the rest of your bag, based on your favorite club. The row to the left is 5 grams down, the row to the right is 5 grams up.

>

>

>

> The chart is based on players ive been doing more than 1 club for, and i found a pattern behind it, who can be explained. In a set of irons with constant weight shafts, both shafts and grips is equal in weight, the only difference is the head. The clubs total weight changes by the same as head weight changes, and thats 7 grams pr. iron.

>

>

>

> In Drivers and woods we can use 10 grams pr. club like this

>

> - Driver = 198

>

> - 3W = 208

>

> - 4W = 213

>

> - 5W = 218

>

> - 7W = 228

>

>

>

> In woods we go 10 grams pr inch, or compared to irons, only 5 gram pr 0.5 inch, and then we will need some extra weight. If we use 5 grams plus on Shaft Weight pr inch shorter club, the total weight difference would be about 7.5 grams pr 0.5 inch in woods, compared to 7 grams in irons. Then we ends up with a "heft" in all your clubs who makes them more equal than many players got.

 

This whole post is truly amazing and I feel like I reference it weekly! One question about the weight progression chart.

 

I just got a new set of mixed MP20 irons with KBS $taper 120g shafts. MY driver has a 65g Ad Di shaft in it and my 3W has a 76g Fujikura pro 2.0 shaft. Would I be right in understanding that the iron shafts are a hair light for the driver shaft and the 3W shaft is heavy for the rest of the bag?

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Not really, that depend on play length. The "headers" on the chart for 3W or 4H is only helpers, its actual play length differences that matters.

The chart is only a starting point for testing, non of us is equal, and shafts balance points is also different and might give another feel than the charts is based on, so dont take it too literally, its not any better than a "static fitting", only real life testing will tell you whats right for you. If your Driver and 3W feels just like you want them to be, and you have started to question if iron shaft weight is too light, you can do a test with lead tape on the shafts to figure out to get your peace of mind. Find the middle of the shaft, and set a mark on that spot. Measure the wanted amount of lead tape, and mark the middle of the lead tape.. Now you should align the shaft mark and the lead tape mark with each other, so the lead tape goes "head to grip direction" and on the underside of the shaft so you dont see it from address. Its fully legal to play with lead tape on the shafts, so there is no reason to change them is you find that a few grams more shaft weight was beneficial for you. We can even make the shaft set ascending weight if we like, so get a roll of lead tape and get out and try it off, its the only way to know if you play the right shaft weight or not without a real fitting or buying a new set just to try. Lead tape is the best tuning invention ever made, a golf bag without some lead tape dont belong to a feel player.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> Here is a DIY for Putter balance

>

>

>

> Counterweight

>

> - Take a stack of coins or spacer shims and a tee, put the spacers or coins on the tee, and use tape to fix it to the grip end of the shaft - Test any thing from 30 to 100 grams. Here is how to find out how much weight needed. if the coins has a hole in the middle, you might put them on a tee you push down the went hole at the end of the grip

>

>

>

> Take a letter sheet, and align the longest side against your target

>

> - Address the ball on the side close to you, on target line side of the letter sheet.

>

> Now your putter will be half on, half off the sheet at address.

>

> - When you start your take away, pay attention to how the head "moves" out from address:

>

>

>

> A Blade putter shall move in a slight arc, going off the paper on your side

>

> A Mallet putter shall move in a almost strait line, following the edge of the letter sheet.

>

>

>

> Here is how its should look when Balance is correct

>

> (Image)

>

>

>

>

> On both types of putter, if the head starts by moving IN over the paper, ADD weight grip side.

>

> Test and add weight until its to much, and go down again, to tweak it right.

>

> The need for the letter sheet, is to boost contrast so even small wobbels is visible for your eye.

>

>

>

> Here is how it would look like, when you need more weight Grip side

>

>

>

>

>

> A helper or a video cam is very helpful here. Watch WRISTS and if they are "fixed" or "break " during the stroke.

>

> If the player cant keep his wrist fixed, add more weight grip side until he gets control of them.

>

>

>

> How to change grip side weight

>

> It does not matter if you at the end, use a grip with that extra weight, or if you add it by using lead tape below the grip

>

> Lead tape gives about 25 grams on 1 layer in spiral pattern, filling the same as 1 layer of build up, so if the need is 100 grams, add 4 layers of lead tape as if it was 4 layers of build up.

>

>

>

> You can also use a insert weight, and even make that insert weight yourself, by using a machine bolt, and tape. Just build it up until it fits the inside of the shaft. Last layer, use grip tape and solvent, so it sticks to the inside of the shaft

>

>

>

> PUTTER LIE ANGLE

>

> For this task you need a helper who shall stand in front of you as if he was the target (3-4 YARDS)

>

> When the player takes his stance and address the ball, the helper shall LOOK on the putter head.

>

>

>

> Most, but far from all putters have a FLAT top line, and for the helper its VERY VISIBLE if lie angle is not right for the player. The putter heads top line will tell if lie angle shall be adjusted upright or more flat.

>

>

>

> (Image)

>

>

>

>

> Adjust, look again, and do this until its visible that the putter has a neutral lie angle when the putter head is in address position where the players head is correct over the ball.

>

>

>

> This is the way i do this, i never use any of the tools ive got for this task, because they cant compete with the accuracy you get from a visual judgement like above. Ive got 3 different Mitchell static fitting tools for putters, but they want get you closer than 1* degree of whats right, butt 1 off is NO GOOD, so just save your time and money and do it without

>

>

>

> Good luck !

 

So, if I undestand this correctly my putter going away from my body I need more weight grip side correct?

PING G430 Max 8 degree (digitally lofted) TR Blue 6X tipped .5". 44.5" D4 

G430 17 HY DI HY 85 X

TSR2 21 HY DI HY 85 X

4 THRU PW King Tour KBS $ Taper 120

VOKEY 48 "F" KBS $ Taper 120

VOKEY 54 "F" S400

VOKEY 60 "V" S400

SCOTTY CAMERON T11 BGT POLAR SHAFT SAND BLASTED TO MATCH HEAD... FLATSO 1.0

HOOFER LITE BLACK CAMO 

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YES, if the putter heads moves away from you and into the sheet, then head side has more resistance than grip side, and we should add resistance/weight grip side.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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  • 2 months later...

Question about this point re: driver SW to try to get a better understanding. I have read the entire thread, so I realize that trial and error with SW is the best approach. I am just trying to understand the concept here and I'm about to get off into the mathematical weeds.

Example: Stock driver at 45.75" with SW = D3.

Cut it down to 44.5", so a reduction of 1.25" inches.

+/- 0.5" length = +/- 3 SW points.

So a reduction of 1.25" = 7.5 SW points and said D3 driver at 45.75" is now playing at C6.5 at 44.5" without adding any additional weight.

On a 44.5" driver, 1 SW point = ~1.6 grams.

So to return the SW to D3, I would add 12 grams to the head (7.5 SWP x 1.6g = 12gr), and to return to D2, I would add 10.4gr to the head (6.5 SWP x 1.6gr = 10.4gr).

However, you are saying that for a 37.5" 6-iron at D2, the matching SW for a 44.5" driver is not D2, but rather C7.33 (44.5"-37.5" = 7in x 2/3 SWP/inch = 4.66 SWP, D2 - 4.66 SWP = C7.33 SW)

So if you wanted the 44.5" driver to feel the same as the 6-iron, you wouldn't be trying to return it to D2 by adding 10.4 grams to the head, but instead to C7.33 and adding 1.33 grams to the head (C7.33-C6.5 = 0.83 SWP x 1.6gr = 1.33 grams)?

Why is the stock swing weight for drivers & fairways typically higher than irons when the matching swing weight should actually be lower due to the way swing weight scales deal with length?

The other clubs follow this pattern. Hybrids ~ D1, irons ~ D2, wedges ~ D3/4.

But then when you get to the top of the bag for driver and fairways, it jumps back up to ~D3, which is equivalent to the wedges instead of following the same pattern and dropping a step from the hybrids at D1.

Driver: Ping G400 Max w/ Ping Alta CB 55 Stiff (44.5")

Fairway: Ping G410 SFT 3W w/ Ping Alta CB 65 Stiff

Hybrids: Titleist 818 H1 3H/4H w/ Aldila Rogue Black 85 Stiff

Irons: Ping i210 5i-UW w/ Nippon Modus 3 Tour 105 Stiff (+0.5"/1.5* upright)

Wedges: Ping Glide Stealth 2.0 54 SS / 58 ES w/ Ping AWT 2.0 Wedge Flex

Putter: Taylormade Spider X Navy (35")

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SW and MOi is NOT the same, and we should NOT match the whole bag to the same value, but as GROUPS of clubs.

We normally has 50 to 150 MOI points UP from Irons to driver so we dont go as low as your example of C7.33 at 44.50"

At 44.50" those 50 MOI points is 4.25 grams UP, equal to 2.75 SWP so those C7.33 becomes minimum D0, and if we used 150 MOI points up its 3 x and we get in the area of D5.5 and thats means a range from D0 to D5.5 on the driver if the #6 iron is D2

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Conversely if the head moves inside too much (too much arc) would we add head weight? Thanks.

Some flavor of the month driver.
Some driving iron for Links courses.

A hybrid to save my bad shots.
Titleist blades when I feel lucky otherwise something more forgiving.
A Vokey wedge or 2.
I hate every one of my 17 putters.

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If the head moves like "on rails", balance is good, but you might look at toe weighting (toe hang), if you close up to much or too little, thats not a "club balance" issue like that post helps out with.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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