Can you tip trim tapered tip graphite iron shafts??

[JoeFrigo]

stupid question here. On Aerotech's website I know it point blank says Do Not tip trim the TT shafts, only parallel. I have tip trimmed steel iron shafts to put in wedges before but have no experience with graphite irons

 

Only reason I ask is because the website I have credit at and a discount, only has the Steelfiber FC 115 in a stiff flex. I have F5 (X) in my irons now but like to match iron and wedge shafts all the way down. So all im asking is can you tip trim graphite iron taper tip shafts at all?

 

I was just fit in to these shafts at CC and I know I could order from them 3 more shafts, but $90/shaft compared to under $50 if I can order them myself. During the fitting we went back and forth between the F4 and F5 and there was very very minimal difference so I know I could play the F4 if needed, but for comfort id rather have a stiffer flex.

 

They do have the regular Steelfiber i110 or i125 available in X but I have not played those before. Ideally what im looking for out of my wedges are lower flight. I took a chance and put in Recoil Prototypes but I launch them very high compared to when I had Project X 6.5 in them. Ive only ever played 125g shafts and played PX 6.5 in irons/wedges the past 5 years but at my fitting found my efficiency was very low compared to my clubhead speed. by dropping to 115g iron shafts I picked up 7mph ball speed so id like to match the weight in my wedges due to now there being a 25 yard gap from PW to 50*

 

Thanks

[Stuart_G]

If I'm reading your post correctly, I wouldn't recommend tipping them as much as it seems you want to tip them (to make an S play more like an X). You can probably get away with a small amount of tipping (and reshaping the taper by hand) but the main concern is that the tips of graphite shafts are reinforced to handle the higher stresses near the top of the hosel. If you tip too much, you can bypass that reinforced section and end up with a lot higher risk of failure. The problem is trying to determine how much you can get away with for any particular shaft model as the length of that reinforced section is not something that's ever published or made public or standardized in any way. Personally, I wouldn't do more than 1/4" or maybe 3/8". But that's just a conservative guess. It's not an opinion based on any actual measurements of the wall thickness through the tip section.

[J13]

The problem with trimming a taper tip is you are increasing the diameter of the tip section and it won't fit into the hosel

[Stuart_G]

That's the problem with steel but not much of a problem with graphite. It's very easy to reshape the graphite tip to get the proper taper shape back. Same as adding a taper to a graphite tip that started out as a parallel tip shaft.

[JoeFrigo]

thanks guys for the response...Yea I thought ive read somewhere before, probably from Howard Jones, but the max tip should be 3/8in. Stuart_G like you mentioned id just be tipping to get it closer to X flex

 

The easy solution for me is to not be cheap trying to save $75 lol and just buy the X flex from someone who carries them.

[Stuart_G]

The 3/8" that's commonly cited by Howard is a bit different. That's generally what you might be able to get away with any taper tip shaft and hosel w/o modification to the taper (true for steel and graphite) and still get enough insertion for a good glue joint. This comes from the general manufacturing tolerances in the tip size and hosel bore size. Since graphite tips can be reshaped, the potential exists to get more tipping and still have a good fit. So you physically could tip more but that's w/o considering the risks I already mentioned.

 

[J13]

True but with certain shafts you really need to be careful "reshaping" the tip section especially ones with certain design elements baked into the tip section.

[Stuart_G]

 

Not as long as you stay within the reinforced parts of the tip section. The amount removed for reshaping is trivial and can't harm the shaft tip in any way. And if you go beyond that, then it's already too weak even before you start reshaping so even then the reshaping itself wont make any difference.

 

 

[lindsaybinsey]

I tipped my aerotech x110's about 3/4 inch and regretted it instantly. They didn't feel super stiff they just flighted way too low, especially the mid-short irons.

Pretty upset I didn't heed the warnings. Live and learn .....

[J13]

I've heard that many times. It's just not worth it and people are better off getting the parallel tip or soft or hard stepping irons if they want to adjust how the shaft plays.

[lindsaybinsey]

There are a lot of graphite iron shafts that offer tons of different benefits. What I was trying to do with the aerotechs by tipping them was something the fujikura iron shafts offered without alteration. Once you reach a certain level with your game and start “fine tuning” equipment, it can be really detrimental.

 

Just like the golf swing itself, dialing in equipment is a lot of trial and error. Reviews are informative but reading one guys take will never replace trying it for yourself. This game ain’t cheap!

[JoeFrigo]

Thanks for this. I decided to not be cheap by ordering the F4's and just bought the F5's elsewhere so I dont have to tip. Id rather get it right the first time then trial and error like I normally do!