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I'm struggling to square up my face consistently. Why? video.


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Really struggling to close up the face of my driver consistently. Currently only hitting 25% of fairways with it, most misses are right. Way right. Push fade/slice. KILLING ME.

2/3/4 irons also have a push miss, although not very often.

Short irons are solid. If anything, I draw them too much.

Trackman says I've a fairly neutral to in-to-out club path.

Ive tried the basics... strong grip, using my wrists, ect, with no real success. I think It's time to look at my swing. Can anyone spot any issues? I don't know much about the swing. Ive seen 3 different instructors, none ofered any advice beyond grip changes....

thanks in advance

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Thanks Ianeholt

The driver is fairly new and was fitted by a respected fitter. We tested a lot of shafts. I'm unsure what the CPM of the shaft is. Its a 6.0 T1100 evenflow white. 67 grams. It feels stiffer than any x stiff shaft I've ever used. I'm told it plays more like a 7.0 than a 6.0. It feels very stiff and stable and seems to jive well with my tempo and transition. I'm a sensitive feel-type player and this shaft felt very good to me, which was one of the reasons it was selected in the fitting. My swing speed varies from 108 - 115, depending on the day and/or calibration of the speed measuring device, I guess. When I flush it it on the course it will carry about 270-280 with no wind or elevation change.

Shaft is at 45.5 inches.

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I’m sure someone will be able to offer some actual professional advice, but to my untrained eye it looks like you may be spinning your lower body a little too quickly on the downswing during the push shots...like your hips and knees are turning too aggressively. So, maybe it’s a tempo issue. Who knows though, because I’m of course not that great at golf...someone much better than me should probably be giving you advice. Haha. Regardless, cool video.

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You are def right. I think the lower body is where i need to focus.

In another thread with the same video Monte said the hips were 'incorrectly rotating'. I believe the culprit is not going back far enough and/or too flat (need to straighten the right knee more in the back swing) and possibly also rotating though too quick. still trying to figure out how to get the feel for the correct rotation.

I've experimented with the straightening the right knee thing on the range as a swing thought. Def makes me hook the ball like crazy. Still a weird feeling, doesn't feel right yet. Feels like i loose a bit of control.

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I wouldn’t mess with your swing and legs. It looks like your power is good. I’d focus on tempo and you’ll be striping fairways. I can hit my driver pretty far and my misses are all over the place when my tempo is off. I also line up pretty crappy sometimes. When I get my tempo and line right, though, my drives are lights out. I bet you’ll do the same.

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Funny but the slow mo of both drives from behind - the push definitely looks like a push but the baby draw appears to go dead straight.

lane recommended a shaft of 280-290 CPM. From what I've read 250 CPM is stiff and 260 is X so I'm not sure where he gets 280-290.

At 108 you'd just be into the recommended "X" range. At 115 you'd be squarely into the "X" range.

That said, you probably knows the basics - there's very little to change to get a push to be a baby draw. You cross the line at the top hence your inside-out path. With the face pointing on exactly the line of your path you get a block. Starts right and stays on that same line.

Turning that into a baby draw is a relatively small face angle change. Having that face pointed slightly left of where it is when you block it right makes a block into a baby draw. You say you tried grip changes before ? Face on, your right hand's "V" (can't see the left) seems to be pointing slightly inside of your right shoulder. You've tried strengthening that just a touch ? Point the "V" AT the right shoulder ?

Seems to me that all other things being equal a slight strengthening of the grip would turn the push into a baby draw; face angle should then be slightly left of your path.

Also, from the face on angle it looks as though your ball position isn't quite at the left heel but slightly back of that. Perhaps an ever so slightly movement of the ball forward would allow that closing club face to no bee pointed slightly left of your path (rather than changing the grip) ?

Alternately, how did you select that shaft ? That White is really stout and you appear to have what I'd think would be called a "moderate" tempo. Perhaps a slightly different shaft profile would fit you better and allow you to turn it over ?

Possibly a similar shaft, or even a tiny bit heavier (70 gram range), with slightly more torque might allow the face to close ever so slightly more ? Your "White" torque is 3.0. Possibly something in the 3.2 or 3.3 range might just allow that face to rotate just a tiny bit left ? Evenflow Blue (75) ?

Oh, and definitely agree with shortening the shaft. 45.5 is too long. 44.5 - 44.75 might help you "center" it more often.

Good luck.

 

Callaway Epic Flash SZ 9.0 Ventus Blue 6S

Ping G425 14.5 Fairway Tour AD TP 6X

Ping G425 MAX 20.5 7 wood Diamana Blue 70 S

Titleist 716 AP-1  5-PW, DGS300

Ping Glide Forged, 48, DGS300

Taylormade MG3 52*, 56*, TW 60* DGS200

LAB Mezz Max 34*, RED, BGT Stability

Titleist Pro V1X

 

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Recommend posting your thread in the instruction forum. You’ll get a lot better/more knowledgable help there most likely.

BG01JBQ3OF6B.png

2024 Building In-progress

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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Shaft was fitted by a fairly respected fitter where I live. After settling on the TS3 head, we tried all the stock shaft offerings in x stiff, then a couple in stiff. We also tried a few expensive shafts mostly in x stiff. On the day, on his trackman, I was swinging the driver 109 +/-. The evenflow white felt the best BY FAR. Im a feel player, feel is important to me. I picked up a few MPH with it, probably because it felt the most stable. I felt little difference between the x stiff and stiff, but if i remember correctly the stiff (6.0) produced the best numbers. So we went with the 6.0 stiff. The fitter said this was common with this shaft as he reckoned it played more like a 7.0 than a 6.0. Sure feels like it. My previous driver had a aldila x flex tour green and this shaft feels significantly stiffer.

I should say my driving has improved significantly since getting fitted for this driver. I believe the shaft is a large reason why. My stats have gone from about 20% fairways to 35%, bust most importantly, my misses are way better and I can hit draws or fades if I need. never felt confident enough to do that before.

I've got the exact same shaft in my 3 wood. Was fitted for that independently by a different fitter. Same conclusion, 6.0 evenflow white (75g in the 3 wood though). I dont recall ever hitting a single push or fade with that thing, let alone a slice, plenty of over draws and hooks though. Shaft also feels great in that club.

I've no idea what the CPM of the shaft is. If I ever get an opportunity to measure it, I will.

NSX guy - because my swing is only slightly in-to-out at contact, my stock shot baby draw should start dead straight to my alignment then draw from there. Club face gets square to target so the ball flight starts square to target. because the variable I'm struggling to control is face angle I do get dispersion both in shot shape and direction, unfortunately. I aim to the right side of the fairway to draw it back to the middle, so if i push or fade even a little I'm punished quite severely.

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Well, there's 10 minutes of my life I'll never get back.

The initial 2 videos are from 2011 from a club(?) pro. Nothing newer than that ?

So you're 80 and swing a driver shaft that's over 100 grams and CPM's at 310. Oh, and you can "play a little". Glad to hear it. Hope when I'm your age I can still get up in the morning,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Meanwhile I haven't seen a manufacturer of club OR shafts that makes anything over 80 grams or CPMs over 270. Frankly, I wonder what clubhead speed I could generate with a 100 gram driver shaft. I KNOW I generate a fair bit fewer MPH with a 70 weight class shaft. Or is swing speed not part of the distance formula anymore ? Please don't bother replying - that's a rhetorical question.

Nunchuk shafts are so good that who uses them again ? Besides you that is. This club pro in the video ? You're, OK, they're, suggesting that this Nunchuk shaft is longer and straighter than anything out there and which Tour Pros play them again ? They're not ALL under contract to the manufacturers.

Further, in their video they show the clubhead forward (at impact) position. IIRC there were posts and/or threads here on WRX that suggested that this was a photographic anomaly and there was some sort of know "effect" and that more recent high speed cameras show that the clubhead is actually TRAILING right before impact thus giving some "kick" to the shot.

Anyway, I don't believe anybody publishes the CPM of the Tour Pros' shafts and frankly, I don't care,,,,,,,, so I guess I won't be "letting you know". Sorry about that. (Well, not really LOL).

Callaway Epic Flash SZ 9.0 Ventus Blue 6S

Ping G425 14.5 Fairway Tour AD TP 6X

Ping G425 MAX 20.5 7 wood Diamana Blue 70 S

Titleist 716 AP-1  5-PW, DGS300

Ping Glide Forged, 48, DGS300

Taylormade MG3 52*, 56*, TW 60* DGS200

LAB Mezz Max 34*, RED, BGT Stability

Titleist Pro V1X

 

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The camera artefact you refer to is called rolling shutter. You are correct, the shaft is not actually bent forward at impact. The pixels are recorded sequentially top to bottom so the ones at the bottom of the camera sensor are recorded a millisecond after the pixels at the middle, therefore the club head looks further along the swing than the middle of the shaft. If that makes sense.

 

 

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The rolling shutter effect exaggerates it, but it’s a normal occurrence for the shaft to be in lead deflection at impact. It’s a product of the lag release and CG alignment with the shaft axis. Same reason you see the toe droop, which is also exaggerated by the shutter effect.

2024 Building In-progress

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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True!

I think your stuck, and I may be wrong so take that for what it’s worth. Lead arm is pinned on the chest, trail elbow behind the trail hip, club head way behind your turn, etc. That’s why I posted the photo. If I am correct, I have no idea how to tell you why you got that way. That would be for the smart swing instructors to identify.

2024 Building In-progress

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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Okay, cool. Wasn't sure if you had gotten some good help or not already. Good to hear.

2024 Building In-progress

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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Have you checked your ball position? In your FO views, the ball looked a touch back from the left heel. If your miss is a push, it generally implies that your face is open at impact. If the ball is back in your stance, all things being equal, that generally means you would need some extra manipulation with the hands to get the face shut, since you've got less room to work with. So if you get that ball a little more forward, it might be a really simple fix.

Caveat: If I actually knew what I was talking about, I wouldn't be posting on golf forums on the internet!

Good luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The shaft needs to be shallow earlier in the downswing which will allow you to control the face coming down. Point the club outside of the target line (opposite the side of the ball you are standing on) early in the downswing then allow the hands to come down and the club to move in front of you.

 

Here's a video that somewhat explains this concept:

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