Playing Hickory Golf

[deetsal]

> @Maximilian said:

> Hi everyone!

>

> I have been searching what balls most of you hickory players who play a modern, non-replica ball prefer, but most topics are a few years old now and the models have been replaced.

>

> So far I have been playing the Wilson DX2 Soft ball exclusively, but been wondering if I’m loosing out on not playing a Urethane ball? On a few occasions when I have found a soft Urethane ball, I can’t say I’ve noticed a positive difference, but that has only been on a hole here or there so it’s difficult to know.

>

> Everyone seems to measure compression differently, but what I’ve gathered is that for overall compression (not just core compression), the Bridgestone Tour B RXS, Callaway Chrome Soft and Srixon Q Star Tour seem to be the softest current Urethane balls with almost identical compression, with the Wilson Duo Professional right behind them just ever so slightly harder.

>

> Doubt I would notice much difference between any of them (the list was more just a for your information type of thing, which I believe is true, but not even a 100% sure), but I’m more interested in hearing what type of ball most of you are playing and prefer now? The softest you can get, a Urethane covered ball, or some other charicaristics you look for?

>

> Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

> //M

 

> @Maximilian said:

> Hi everyone!

>

> I have been searching what balls most of you hickory players who play a modern, non-replica ball prefer, but most topics are a few years old now and the models have been replaced.

>

> So far I have been playing the Wilson DX2 Soft ball exclusively, but been wondering if I’m loosing out on not playing a Urethane ball? On a few occasions when I have found a soft Urethane ball, I can’t say I’ve noticed a positive difference, but that has only been on a hole here or there so it’s difficult to know.

>

> Everyone seems to measure compression differently, but what I’ve gathered is that for overall compression (not just core compression), the Bridgestone Tour B RXS, Callaway Chrome Soft and Srixon Q Star Tour seem to be the softest current Urethane balls with almost identical compression, with the Wilson Duo Professional right behind them just ever so slightly harder.

>

> Doubt I would notice much difference between any of them (the list was more just a for your information type of thing, which I believe is true, but not even a 100% sure), but I’m more interested in hearing what type of ball most of you are playing and prefer now? The softest you can get, a Urethane covered ball, or some other charicaristics you look for?

>

> Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

> //M

 

> @Maximilian said:

> Hi everyone!

>

> I have been searching what balls most of you hickory players who play a modern, non-replica ball prefer, but most topics are a few years old now and the models have been replaced.

>

> So far I have been playing the Wilson DX2 Soft ball exclusively, but been wondering if I’m loosing out on not playing a Urethane ball? On a few occasions when I have found a soft Urethane ball, I can’t say I’ve noticed a positive difference, but that has only been on a hole here or there so it’s difficult to know.

>

> Everyone seems to measure compression differently, but what I’ve gathered is that for overall compression (not just core compression), the Bridgestone Tour B RXS, Callaway Chrome Soft and Srixon Q Star Tour seem to be the softest current Urethane balls with almost identical compression, with the Wilson Duo Professional right behind them just ever so slightly harder.

>

> Doubt I would notice much difference between any of them (the list was more just a for your information type of thing, which I believe is true, but not even a 100% sure), but I’m more interested in hearing what type of ball most of you are playing and prefer now? The softest you can get, a Urethane covered ball, or some other charicaristics you look for?

>

> Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

> //M

 

 

[deetsal]

The Duo U is the lowest compression,55, tour ball out there. Great soft cover and nice soft feel. The best feeling ball is the Duo at 29 compression but

[ASak10]

Hey everyone, havne't posted in this section before, mainly stick to the Colorado forum....but I'm excited. Have a few friends that are big hickory golfers (one has played a few times in the US Hickory Open and plays in a lot of events in Wisconsin) and they've slowly been turning me to hickory golf. Played a few times with them and got the bug. Had my buddy find me a set and I finally was able to pick them up this past weekend. Here are some pics, can't wait to get out and play! SPeaking of, if anyone knows of a group in Colorado that plays hickory golf please let me know, would love to get out with some people!

 

 

[Jiggered]

That's a very nice set you have there ASak, enjoy!

[ebeer]

Fabulous set of stick ASak. Wisconsin is a hot bed for hickory, if those clubs came from Ernie they're guaranteed good. A lil info if you're not already aware:

 

George Smith was at Lossiemouth from 1919-1928

A. Baggs was at Eastbourne from 1908-1923

Charles Rowe was at Oakmont from 1915-1928

Charles Mayo was all over the US from Chicago to New York to Atlanta to Florida during the 1920's

[ASak10]

> @ebeer said:

> Fabulous set of stick ASak. Wisconsin is a hot bed for hickory, if those clubs came from Ernie they're guaranteed good. A lil info if you're not already aware:

>

> George Smith was at Lossiemouth from 1919-1928

> A. Baggs was at Eastbourne from 1908-1923

> Charles Rowe was at Oakmont from 1915-1928

> Charles Mayo was all over the US from Chicago to New York to Atlanta to Florida during the 1920's

 

Was not aware, thanks so much for all the information! Very cool to know. Not sure if my buddy bought them from Ernie but I'll ask him. He got them during the Hickory Open earlier this summer at Belvedere.

[Jiggered]

I have an old Willie Park club that we used to use as a putter in the back garden when we were kids.

 

Looking at it now I'm sure that it's not actually a putter but a smooth faced cleek (due to the lie) that was cut down at some stage in its history and converted for use as a putter. Anyway, the shaft was split at the end so I decided to re-shaft as a cleek, whether my assumption was right or wrong!

 

Below is the club as it was and below that a picture of the cleaned head and new shaft ready for fitting, I sanded the shaft to the same thickness as the original which closely matched a 2 iron I have.

I've now epoxied the head to the shaft and will then drill and pin, is this the correct order when fitting a new shaft?

Before I varnish it, is there any recommendation for treating the hickory, boiled linseed oil for instance, or just go ahead and varnish? I use Tru-Oil.

 

 

 

[ebeer]

Oil treatment not necessary and potentially detrimental. Simply add you protective coating of choice. Tru Oil is popular...Tad recommends Amber Shellac from Zinsser. Spray poly will protect as well, but for a club of this age one of the prior two would prolly be more appropriate

[Jiggered]

> @ebeer said:

> Oil treatment not necessary and potentially detrimental. Simply add you protective coating of choice. Tru Oil is popular...Tad recommends Amber Shellac from Zinsser. Spray poly will protect as well, but for a club of this age one of the prior two would prolly be more appropriate

 

Thanks ebeer!

[humphereydumpherey]

Anyone use one of those x "stands" with a pencil bag? I don't have the stand and without a caddy I just lie the bag in the ground. I wonder if the stand will help, if it can be put in the bag as a club and taken out when needed, or that will be too much trouble.

[Jiggered]

> @humphereydumpherey said:

> Anyone use one of those x "stands" with a pencil bag? I don't have the stand and without a caddy I just lie the bag in the ground. I wonder if the stand will help, if it can be put in the bag as a club and taken out when needed, or that will be too much trouble.

 

I use one and they're great if the grass is a bit damp, but if the course is dry I'll generally just lay my bag on the ground as it's quicker.

[Jiggered]

Club finished, I opted for 39" for the length, not too long but the club sits well at that length.

 

 

 

 

[numberonecoog]

Alright guys. It's taken me 4 days but I think I'm through this thread. I made it!

 

I bought some Hickories this past weekend. I'm simply looking for some information on what I got. I really just want something to dip my toe in the water

Also I am attempting to do my own grip this weekend on the putter. Any advice?

[deetsal]

while being very common there is nothing wrong with them, they plat just fine.

[doubledub]

Just played my first round with hickories this past weekend. I got a partial set (D,3wood,2i,4i,6i,8i,56*) from Louisville golf because I didn't want to mess with buying something off ebay, getting clubs restored etc. Interesting timing with the USGA & R&A report coming out but my first reaction was that the ball is responsible for more of the distance gains than I previously thought possible. I played with a TP5 ball and I was only 15-30 yards back from where I normally lie with my perfectly fit modern M5 with a high end shaft. Well stuck shots with the driver will run for days even when you launch one up in the air. Once I got a little more comfortable with the driver I hit all but one fairway on the back 9 and was really giving it a hard rip every time. Irons were very easy to hit, I was just a few yards shorter than with my steel shafts with the comparable lofted club. Short game was sketchy to say the least, wedge grinds have come a long way in the last 90 years. I can't say enough about the quality of Louisville golf's products. They are really good, maybe too good. I got the extra stiff shafts because I swing it 115-120 with the modern driver and those shafts are very stout and definitely hold up to a high swingspeed. I bought these mainly as a fun option to use when I play shorter tees with my higher handicap buddies so I don't have to give them as many shots in our games but now I'm seriously considered entering a hickory tournament at some point. I shot 82 from our ~6500 tees so my goal is to break 80 from those tees and then maybe try to break 80 from our 6900 yd tees at some point in the summer. If anyone is thinking about taking the plunge definitely do it. There isn't a better feeling than really hammering a hickory driver with a hard draw and watching it roll past your buddies ball that he thinks he smoked with a SIM MAVRIK INJECTED TWISTZERO.

[humphereydumpherey]

Very interesting ! On here the Tad Moore Howitzer or Sander wedges get "rave reviews".

One thing, Aren't hickory era tees around 5600-5800 yards?

[hollabachgt]

By the mid 1920's the US Open was being played at courses over 6,700 yards.

[ebeer]

Yep, @hollabachgt is spot on. For the years between Haskell becoming dominant (say 1901) and the USGA approving steel shafts (1924) the average distance of US Open courses was 6365yds. Outliers were Baltusrol in 1903 at 6003yds and Oakland Hills in 1924 at 6874yds. Course irrigation was not as it is today, if it existed at all. There's writing from the time reporting drives from great players (like Booby Jones) traveling in excess of 300yds. Surely conditions impacted distance, with ground travel playing a much larger role (for all shots) than it does today. Hickory golfers on today's "wet" US courses tend to shy away from anything over 6000yds. I tend to play what ever tees get me 6000-6500yds.

[Kirasdad]

I believe for most players, especially if they are going to play hickory intermittently, under 6000 yards is a wise choice. Decent irons are easier to come by if you’re going the authentic route and distance wise they aren’t much different than say, a set of Mizuno blades with traditional lofts. Woods are where things get tricky. It’s hard to find an authentic brassie that’s dependable. My “driver” for years was a 17 degree UK made brassie. Really good club, still have it, but my max with it on average was 210ish. I tried four or five 12 to 14 degree clubs with “meh” results purchased mostly at club shows because I just didn’t trust eBay. If you don’t have a shop and work on clubs (and I don’t) then club shows or Tad/Louisville reproduction clubs are your best option. Unless you don’t mind flushing money down the toilet. I finally bought a Tad driver from Teevons (who’s as reputable a seller as you will find) and I haven’t looked back. It’s a great club and my distance went up 15/20 yards instantly. So if you’re starting out with 6 or 7 clubs of probably dubious origin, play the red tees at 5800 yards and ease your way in to the hickory game. You will have a lot more fun.

[majic]

in the 20’s they played souped up halls on firm and fast fairways The courses played the trees were not as tall or not there at all. They got big time roll on tee shots. Drivers were 7-8 degrees to hit the rollers but most drove most of the time with a string Brassie.

[Jiggered]

First hickory game of the year at Worlington & Newmarket.

Very enjoyable, 18 holes of foursomes in the morning followed by lunch. Then a new experience for me in the afternoon; 9 holes of 8 ball foursomes, which was very sociable and we got round in good time.

I was using the Cochrane "Professional" driver that I posted back in September ( https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/comment/19143631/#Comment_19143631 ) and am pleased to say that I had good results with it. I gripped down the shaft a bit and by using a definite pause at the top of the backswing, I was able to make a good swing and hit some straight, long drives with it.

[ASak10]

I love playing with my hickories when I go out with my kids (who are 6 and 8) so that I can play from the same tees as them (or at least much closer than what I would play with my modern clubs). Went out Saturday and walked 9 with them at my local course. Played from tees that are 6300 yards and was able to shoot a 40, so was very happy with that. I played with my moderns the day before and had shot a 44 on the same 9, so apparently I need to just switch full time to my hickory set

[TCJ]

First time posting in this particular forum, as I am a newly minted hickory golfer. I've been interested in trying hickory golf for a while now, finally taking the plunge and playing my first 18 holes yesterday.
Overall, it was a great experience. I was tentative with my swing for most of the front nine, concerned how the shafts would hold up to my many divots, resulting in a few thinned shots. Once I started putting my regular swing on the ball, realizing just how stout these hickory shafts are, I hit some of my best shots of the season! It also took me a while to finally get a drive into play, but it did happen with a few well placed beauties.
I'll definitely be wrapping up my men's night league with the hickories in the bag, as they fit the course perfectly. Heck, they might fit my game perfectly... only time will tell!
Also, thanks to @majic for his beautiful creation, The AutoCorrect. It suffered me many a three putt last night, but I'm starting to love it... honest!

[Bella Woods]

TCJ

 

How did the men's league go with the hickories in the bag?

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

10 hours ago, Bella Woods said:

TCJ

 

How did the men's league go with the hickories in the bag?

Hi Bella, haven't picked up on your posts for a while. Stixman here, posting under an assumed identity. Hope you are well.

Seasons Greetings.

[bcstones]

On 10/8/2019 at 9:32 AM, ebeer said:

Oil treatment not necessary and potentially detrimental. Simply add you protective coating of choice. Tru Oil is popular...Tad recommends Amber Shellac from Zinsser. Spray poly will protect as well, but for a club of this age one of the prior two would prolly be more appropriate

got a question - what is "potentially detrimental" to hickory shafts about boiled linseed oil, especially if a 50/50 mixture of the oil & turpentine? And what would the US equilevant of "Tru Oil"? 

[Bella Woods]

bcstones

 

The (old) knock on boiled linseed oil that I heard was that it could "soften" the flex of the shafts, and the wood itself.

 

But I have used it many times with no problems, on both hickory shafts and to oil harden persimmon wood heads.

[Bella Woods]

8 hours ago, The Aspidistra in the Hall said:

Hi Bella, haven't picked up on your posts for a while. Stixman here, posting under an assumed identity. Hope you are well.

Seasons Greetings.

Hi Stixman, good to hear from you. Seasons greetings to you as well....

[bcstones]

On 10/8/2019 at 6:05 PM, humphereydumpherey said:

Anyone use one of those x "stands" with a pencil bag? I don't have the stand and without a caddy I just lie the bag in the ground. I wonder if the stand will help, if it can be put in the bag as a club and taken out when needed, or that will be too much trouble.

what is an "X stand"?

 

[bcstones]

8 hours ago, Bella Woods said:

bcstones

 

The (old) knock on boiled linseed oil that I heard was that it could "soften" the flex of the shafts, and the wood itself.

 

But I have used it many times with no problems, on both hickory shafts and to oil harden persimmon wood heads.

On a number of wood projects, I've used a 50/50 mix as I mentioned...the turpentine carries the linseed oil deeper, then evaporates then I finish ususally w/tung oil or a marine varnish. The solution seems to strengthen as well as restore. I've collected a number of hickory shaft clubs, a few that the head might be too badly damages but the shaft might be salavagable. That's when I get the time, hopefully sometime soon.