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Importance of wedge fitting


Liquid_A_45

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I am in the process of upgrading my entire bag this spring, I started by doing my first real fitting experience for a set of irons. The process really opened my eyes to realize it was more than juts buying a set and having the length and lie adjusted. I am now looking for new wedges and I am curious if getting fit for wedges is as important as irons? All of the places that do fittings in my area do them indoors, so I can't try these wedges in playing conditions which in my opinion have the biggest impact on what wedges to buy. Also, if I could save some money by buying gently used or last year's closeouts that would let me go ahead and upgrade my driver.

 

So I am looking for some feedback as the best way to go about this. Do I need to go get fit or can I go about this a DIY way without wasting my time?

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Every club in the bag needs to be fit!! Especially with wedges. Loft/distance gapping, grinds/bounce, lie, lengths.

Ping Hoofer Lite

Mizuno ST Max 9.5*

Mizuno ST Max 3/7W

Mizuno ST Max 5/6H

Mizuno 243 7-GW

Mizuno T24 54/S, 58/D

Mizuno OMOI #2

Mizuno RB Tour

 

Super Bowl LII Champions Fly Eagles Fly! 🦅

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The biggest part of wedge fitting is yardage gapping and sole grinds. If you have a grind that doesn’t interact with the turf in your favor it can be nightmarish around the greens. When hitting them try a variety of short game shots with different face angles etc with the different grinds to see which one works best for what you need

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Current WITB

TAYLORMADE M5 9* (Tensei Pro white 80tx)
PING i25 14* (KuroKage Proto 70xx)
SRIXON ZU85 2i (C-TAPER 130x)
SRIXON Z785 4-PW (C-TAPER 130x)
CALLAWAY MD5 50S (C-TAPER 130x)
CALLAWAY MD5 55W (C-TAPER 130x)
CALLAWAY MD5 60X (C-TAPER 130x)
TAYLORMADE Spider Tour Black (no alignment aid)
BRIDGESTONE TOUR Bx 

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The better you get at this game, the more important wedges are.

10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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@Liquid_A_45 ,
First, how do you use your wedges? Do you use them mostly inside 80 yards for partial shots, or do you often hit full shots with the PW? or PW and GW? or PW, GW and SW?
What are the most common close in "short game" shots you hit with your wedges?

Second, get some off-the-turf testing of wedges which will match your shot needs. Local turf conditions influence wedge choice.
Your location is great for this: find golf expos and demo days in Tulsa and OKC and give the wedges a workout there. Also...
If you like Vokeys, find a golf course that holds Titleist Thursdays. Tell them you want to try out Vokey wedges.See if Cleveland has any short-game clinics coming through your area.Note: I lived in Lawton twice, so congrats to you on living in a golf-intensive state!

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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You should be able to figure this stuff out without having to have a person there to guide you through it. Figure out what wedges you're interested in and research the bounce/grind options. Vokey has lots of options for instance, probably more than any other OEM, and consequently there's tons of info/reviews out there regarding both the moderate (i.e. F, S) grinds as well as the more extreme variants (i.e. M, K, etc.).

 

You should know whether you prefer a full flange with high bounce or something that's been ground down to accommodate opening up the face (if you play those shots often). Experiment a little. Buy a couple used wedges or borrow someone's or go to a demo day if you have to. All the info is out there. There's not really anything you'll get in a wedge "fitting" besides a little experience. Deciding which lofts to carry is mostly just a debate about whether to carry 2 wedges or 3 wedges (not counting your Pw of course).

 

It mostly depends on the courses you play and how soft/firm the turf is. I can't imagine playing the soft (sometimes soggy) courses here without being on the high side bounce-wise. Then again, if I played in west Texas I'd probably have lower bounce angles (at least on my Gw and Sw).

 

Really, it all comes down to what you feel works for you on chips and pitches. It's all about confidence. I prefer having a little extra bounce. That's really all there is. My experience has shown me that I can make any wedge work so long as it's got enough bounce. It's not a very complicated topic TBH.

TSR3 (9o) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6)
TSR2+ (14.5o 3w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

TSR2 (21o 7w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

zU85 (4-6) (UST Recoil)
Z-Forged (7-Gw) (Nippon Modus3)

SM9 56-F / 60-S
Maltby PTM-5CS

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if you have the ability to do a wedge fitting and gapping, work with a professional. no doubt.

I've been pretty happy with med to low bounce on my 52, higher bounce on a 56 and low bounce to medium on my 60.

I play firm courses in the south, damper courses in the mountains, florida, all over.

If you don't go professional, versatility is your friend. i'd stay away from high bounce lob wedges unless your AoA is steep. I woul dtry and find out the bounce on your pw and match a gap wedge to that, because for me, I only use a 52 or 50 for full to 3/4 shots.

 

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I think the complication comes in because people see all these bounce options with letters but really have no idea what they mean. Plus, a specific wedge fitting takes a lot more effort. You need to be outdoors, hitting good golf balls, from various yardages including around the green.

It is almost impossible to do.

Driver: Paradym 3D Ventus black TR 6x

3 wood: Paradym 3d Ventus black TR 7x

19 degree UW: Ventus black TR 8x

Mizuno Pro Fli Hi 4 utility Hazrdus black 90 6.5 X

5 -PW: Callaway Apex MB, KBS $ taper 130X

Wedges - Jaws raw 50, 54, 59 KBS $ taper 130x

Putter- Mutant Wilson Staff 8802 with stroke lab shaft
BALL; Chrome Soft X

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I disagree with gapping wedges a bit more now given how often they are actually hit with full shots. I feel that the majority of shots from within 100 yards are manipulated in some way depending on what is needed in that situation, and are more of a 'specialty' thing in my mind, preferred pets shots that you have the most confidence in being able to repeat/achieve good results.

 

Someone who plays PW/52/58 isn't concerned about gapping, as I'm sure most shots from 100y in are played with the 58* unless they are knocking a 52* low or into the wind.

 

As nice as it is to have options in the bag, it also confuses people and stifles creativity/imagination. I think this is only becoming more of an issue as OEM's change the letter/number on the bottom of the club.

What's In The Ping Moonlite:
Ping Rapture '14 13*
Ping Rapture DI 18*
Titleist 690.CB 4/6/8/PW
Vokey TVD 54*
Odyssey Tank V-Line

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I agree. A casual Lw from me probably goes ~90-yds. Some people would say that's not specific enough--saying "probably goes," but the truth is, 90 is just one number. You're making it up on the spot with virtually every number. Even day-to-day there will be fluctuation in whatever your stock shot does. Heck, if you put a gun to my head and told me to hit it 115 I probably could, simply because I understand how to manipulate it.

 

I totally agree that wedge gapping is over-rated. I carry a 52 / 56 / 60 combo by mostly just hit the 52 for flighted shots and the 60 for shots inside 95. It's rare that I feel I need the 56. It's more a right-place, right-time sort of club such as when the lie mandates it--fluffy sand, a chip from soggy areas, a chip that needs to release slightly, a slight up-hill lie, etc..

TSR3 (9o) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6)
TSR2+ (14.5o 3w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

TSR2 (21o 7w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

zU85 (4-6) (UST Recoil)
Z-Forged (7-Gw) (Nippon Modus3)

SM9 56-F / 60-S
Maltby PTM-5CS

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Wedge fitting I had was extremely beneficial when I got my SM6s a few years ago. Mostly for working with the different grinds and how they interacted with my swing and on different shots and having an eye on my swing to help with the process and evaluate the results. My ideas of what grinds were right for me based on researching on Titleist, etc. just were not correct in 2/3 of the wedges I ended up with as far as the grinds were concerned. Good to have an experienced fitter available to answer questions, control variables, etc.

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imho most people (incl. myself) struggle for consistency and distance control. if you're thinning the ball around the green and/or hitting it too long/short within 100-120, the bounce/grind ain't going to matter much

unless you can get fitted with a Trackman, outdoor turf AND at your home club (or where ever you play your golf most), the impact of wedge fitting just doesn't feel as critical to me

 

Callaway Epic Subzero 9.5° [i]Oban Devotion 65-04[/i]
Tour Edge Exotics XCG-7 15° [i]Oban Devotion 75-04[/i]
Miura 1957 Small Blades 3-PW [i]Nippon Modus 125S[/i]
Titleist Vokey SM5 52.08 [i]KBS Tour 120S[/i]
Titleist Vokey SM5 58.07 [i]KBS Tour 120S[/i]
Scotty Cameron Select Newport 34"

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Not to de-rail too much, but what are everyone's thoughts on matching iron shafts to wedge shafts? I play 50/54/58, but the 50 is the only real full swing club.

Paradym 10.5 w/Graphite Design ADHD 5S

Paradym 3WHL w/ Tensei Blue 6S

Paradym 7W w/ Tensei Blue 6S

Ping 425 4H w/Tensei Orange 80HYS at 23°

Yonex Ezone CB 301 5-PW w/ Nippon Modus TOUR125S

Mizuno Copper T22 50S, 54D, 58X w/ Project X LZ 6.0

LAB Golf B.2

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Recently, I went with a softer shaft in the SW and LW. For me, I got fitted into Project X lz 5.5 in my irons (firm flex), and my sand and lob wedge is LZ 5.0. My gap wedge still has 5.5. I buy everything used, so it took a while to find the right loft/grind/shaft combo for each of the wedges because not all manufacturers used the LZ shafts with regularity (Mizuno and PING being the most common). It may be more of a mental thing than anything, though. I don't think my scores are all that better than when I had similar wedges with S200s in them.

Regarding wedge fitting - I can see the merit if the fitting is done under the ideal conditions mentioned above (outside/on grass/variety of lies, etc). The reality is that a lot of us don't have access to that environment, and that's okay. The information is out there and can be overwhelming, but I think most people can get a good approximation by combining an assessment of their game with picking up a couple of used wedges in different grinds and trying them out. If I had $100 to spend on 'golf stuff', I would definitely spend it on a couple of lessons over a wedge fitting.

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To me I don't really care about re-learning what the bounce is, what works best with what turf-types, and then triangulate that with shot variety very couple of years that I get new wedges, so I'd rather pay a fitter to walk me through the process without breaking out a protractor :)

It also helped my game a little. We "purpose-built" my 52 and 56 to be used for full-club equivalent use, 60 to be more versatile, then figured out how to configure a 64 vokey. So applying that to the course, now I have basically two higher lofted pitching wedges, then two clubs to screw around with around the green and in bunkers. I could probably now just re-order the same thing though, tbh.

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I went to Artisan Golf for a wedge fitting just over a month ago now; it was some experience.

The time that was taken with lots of wedge shots was brilliant. It was an experience I would recommend to anyone. I let myself be lead blind through the whole thing and went with what I was recommended.

I should be getting the wedges in the next few weeks and very much looking forward to my first practice session with them.

  • Titleist TSR3 9* Ventus Black 6X
  • Taylormade Sim2 15* Tensei White 80TX
  • TM Stealth 2 Iron or Ping i59 3 iron Project X 7.0
  • Artisan MB 4-9 Project X 7.0
  • Artisan 46*, 50* Project X 6.5
  • Artisan  55*, 60* S400
  • Artisan BlueBonnet Carbon 0217
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Wedge fitting for the bounce and shaft has helped me knock 3 strokes off my handicap this last 12 months.

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Driver:  TSR3 8 Ventus Red TR 8X 

Fairway: TSR3 16.5 Ventus Blue 8X 

Hybrid:  Sim2 Tensei Orange 90TX Or Srixon ZX 2 Iron 105X

Irons:Black T200 4-5 T100S 6-AW MMT 125TX

Wedges: MG4 54 MMT 125TX and Vokey SM9 58.04T MMT 125TX

Putter: Lajosi DD201

Pro V1X Left Dash

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Find a wedge and grind you like. But you will never see the full potential of a wedge without a loft-lie machine at hand to experiment. You have to be willing to bend, bend and bend again to find the sweet spot. When you find it you’ll know it.

BTW, I’ve found wedge lie angle to be counter intuitive for me. What would obviously be flatter turned out it played much better upright. You just have to experiment.

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Two biggest benefits from my wedge fitting was getting exact lofts for the yardage gaps I want and finding the right heads and shafts to lower trajectory and knock off a little spin.

Titleist TSr4 10.0*  Mitsubishi 1k Black 65 tx  
TaylorMade BRNR Mini 13.5* Kai'li white- tx
Srixon ZX5 (4-6) ZX7 (7-pw) KBS tour 130-x
Mizuno T20 51* TT x-100

Callaway Full Toe 54*, 60* TT x-100
Callaway PM Grind 64*
TaylorMade Soto Long Neck

Pro V1

 

 

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Another advocate here for working out what's best for your game and using the fitting to get the right lie, shaft, and length based upon your irons.

For example, I can't effectively play a lob wedge with over 8 degrees of bounce - I hit it thin, skull it and have no confidence when the lie is remotely firm.

I use a sand wedge with 10 degrees, because I want more for the bad lies or fluffy sand - will also use that when I happen to want the distance of a full sand iron, or if I need to really chunk down on one hitting a low spinny knockdown.

Pitch for me is a distance club, and the occasional chip on slow greens or uphill, however gap is my stock chip (not lofted pitch, or chip) club, or my stock knockdown 100 yards.

I just know these things based on what I want my wedges to do - 4 wedges, 5 degree gaps, barely hit all full.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Wedges and short game is where we can scramble and save a good score, or mess it up, so wedges is just as important as all the others....maybe a tad more important actually.

It starts with the bag set up, we only have room for 13 clubs after the putter, so depending on your needs in the long end, you have room for 2 or 3 wedges on top of the PW in the short.

Next is how you normally play each wedge. Some of us is using a GW like it was a #11 iron and thats it, others are more advanced. Then the question becomes what loft you prefer for SAND and if that club also would be your LOB or if you want a LOB at all? When you have filled in the answers to this questions its time to look at each of them for what lofts that gives good gaps further from the PW...

Today we have a silly amount of shafts and grind options, and static bounce is only the sole angle itself, used to compensate to angle of attack, so that want tell much, we have to look at ALL sole properties from leading edge to sole camber heel to toe, sole length and trailing edge.....

Are you a picker or a digger? your normal access to the ball and the turf conditions you normally plays is input needed for a club fitter, so is how you mostly play each wedge (mostly full shots, mostly partials, open, square, flops, what ever....

Im old and short, so my needs is the long end of the bag, so i have to use 2 wedges only on top of my PW, and that demands even more specific specs and sole properties for each of them to be able to meet any distance or conditions needed....

So, a GOOD wedge fitting is never wrong, but hard to find, and the club fitters expertise is way more important than "brand names", but it is correct enough that Titleist Vokey might have the largest numbers of options to choose from, but that want help you if you cant find a club fitter who can navigate in this options and give you the chance to try them off. Another brand to mention one is EDEL who takes the fitting part seriously as a brand, but again, find a club fitter who know what he is doing, because it takes noting to use the tittle club fitter, but that dont mean they know what they are doing.

Your job is to find that club fitter, and tell him about your short game and what you want out of each wedge

 

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