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Lead tape on a driver question


dre72

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I have a tour issued M4 that I hit very well. Point and shoot kinda accuracy, however it spins too much. Lat time I was on a monitor with it it was 2600-3000. I have a Fuji Ventus Black shaft in there, so I am pretty confident that it isn't the shaft. I currently have some lead tape just behind the "hammerhead" slot on the sole. Looks be damned, I am seriously considering putting the leadtape on the top of the crown and removing it off the bottom. I know it will be ugly but the only thing I care about is the scorecard. Would doing this bring the spin down much? Has anyone tried this??

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Unfortunately lead tape isn't going to have the desired result on reducing spin that dramatically.

 

Your only real options are to decrease loft or change head type for a large spin reduction. Simply changing weights will usually only impact a few hundred rpms at most.

 

The other thing you could look into is strike location as even with all the right equipment you can override all of it with poor impact parameteres.

 

Hope that's helpful.

 

Wan

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Like the poster above write, thats NOT your issue, and if it was, moving it from the sole to the crown or up is the wrong direction.

Your issue is most likely impact position on the face, its to low vs the club heads Vertical Center of Gravity.

1/8" higher only, cut of average 240 rpms...2/8" cut of 480 rpm...3/8" cuts of 720 rpms....so all you have to do to get spin levels lower is to move impact a little higher on the face.https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/909991/diy-driver-tune-up-diy-fitting

 

 

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Yeah i'm not sure where you got the idea to put the lead tape on the crown, but that is backwards like Howard said. The M4 is a pretty high MOI driver, but also quite high CG, so you need to get your strike location up to lower spin. The middle of the face is NOT where the sweet spot is, you need to living at least a groove higher. Just be careful, because "point and shoot" accuracy is aided by spin. As you decrease spin, your stability can start to suffer. Tons of tour players live in the 2,600-3,000 spin range for that reason.

Titleist TSi3 9* Tensei AV White 65TX 2.0 // Taylormade SIM 9* Ventus TR Blue 6TX
Taylormade Stealth+ 16.5* Ventus Black 8x // Taylormade SIM Ti V2 16.5* Ventus TR Blue 7X
Callaway Apex UW 19* Ventus Black 8x // Srixon ZX Utility MKII 18* Graphite Design AD-IZ 95X
Callaway X-Forged Single Diamond 22* Nippon GOST Hybrid Tour X 
Bridgestone 
J40 DPC 4i-7i 24*- 35* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 39*- 48* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Scotty Cameron Newport Tour Red Dot || Taylormade Spider X Navy Slant

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Thats a misjudgment Adam, the SLDR was extreme, we have not seen anything like it before or after, it had a very low VCOG and very short RCOG, but other drivers is not like that, they all have a longer RCOG = Higher MOI., and Higher VCOG. That means if the player has a spin issue, he is able to raise impact higher without the same risk as the SDLR player had on every shot, since a outside of the center/VCOG vertical line, dont punish the player with the same head twisting who causes the horizontal gear effects, who is the reason for a very sharp tilted spin axis and what you in the US call "knuckle ball flight". Heads with higher MOI value want twist as brutal as SLDR because they have a longer RCOG and by that higher MOI = more resistance to twist....so low spin with the spin axis under control is achievable if you pick the right head specs. Thats why we cant think like you do based on how the SLDR was, because the problem was not low spin isolated, but low spin combined with the brutal head twist due to a short RCOG and low MOI value.

If i had a SLDR head myself, i would have removed the front sliding weight, and added hot melt as far back you can get without thinking of that its higher than the lowest sole level. Its VCOG is so low to start with it want hurt if we move it 1/8" higher) but we want be able to with out LOTs of weight), it will still be low, but we would gain some MOI and improve forgiveness by reducing head twist and horizontal gear effects on those shots with impact outside the VCOG line.

 

Another way to "improve" performance on the SLDR is to use a silly stiff tip section with a low TQ value combined with the hot melt in the rear and removed sliding wgt.

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I definitely agree that the SLDR was an outlier in that sense, but I still think the same caution is warranted to a certain extent. You get away with a whole lot more with the M4 over an SLDR, but a high toe ball can still knuckle, especially if his high spin is strike induced and still under 3,000. That suggests that a proper high center or high toe strike could easily get into the low 2,000's, if not lower, and that can spell danger if it strays just a little too far into the toe. Substantially less danger than with the SLDR, but still there.

Titleist TSi3 9* Tensei AV White 65TX 2.0 // Taylormade SIM 9* Ventus TR Blue 6TX
Taylormade Stealth+ 16.5* Ventus Black 8x // Taylormade SIM Ti V2 16.5* Ventus TR Blue 7X
Callaway Apex UW 19* Ventus Black 8x // Srixon ZX Utility MKII 18* Graphite Design AD-IZ 95X
Callaway X-Forged Single Diamond 22* Nippon GOST Hybrid Tour X 
Bridgestone 
J40 DPC 4i-7i 24*- 35* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 39*- 48* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Scotty Cameron Newport Tour Red Dot || Taylormade Spider X Navy Slant

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No heads is able to "fix it" no matter how bad it is, everything has a limit, and the players impact alone is just a part of it, face to pact matters too, and what BIAS that had has for the actual impact situation.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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