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Hogan wood pin removal


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I need to get this head off to reset the shaft and shore up cracks in the neck. How would you go about removing this pin?

9PP3YFCZZQUM.jpgHead is not a bore-through type, the pin is flush to the club, and I do NOT want to cut the shaft. Should I go look for a very long-shank drill bit? Try to carve around the pin enough to be able to get a bite on it? Rewhip the club and run away screaming?

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What kind of cracks? Just tiny ones around the top of the neck? If that's the case, I would inject epoxy into the cracks (might have to drill a tiny hole to get the needle in) and see if you can get enough epoxy in to seal them. Then whip it.

Otherwise, it's a long drill and hope the pin pops out enough to grab it and pull it out. You then have to drive the other 1/2 of the pin into the head so that the shaft can be pulled out. If you haven't done this before and are unwilling to maybe ruin the head because the 1st time rarely goes well - whip it and hang it on your wall.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

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Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
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Parallel cracks on the front and back of the neck. The back crack terminates about where the whipping would end, the front crack continues a bit below the whipping. I agree with that. The 3 wood from the set I considered a lost cause due to a crack through the crown and and attempted the carving method. The results were not horrible... but certainly not pretty. Since the driver is otherwise in the best condition of the 1-3-5 set, I wanted to ask what other ways to consider. I will look into that drill bit, thank you.

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I can't say this is universal, but almost al of the old Hogan woods (with the two color inserts) I used, ended up with a catastrophic crack someplace. I'm not sure if the persimmon was sketchy or the way they treated the wood, but they just did not last very long. With that in mind, I would be very cautious trying to reset a shaft on one of these clubs. Even when you drill through the back screw with the long drill, you still have to clear what's left of the screw on the inside portion the shaft. That is where one will encounter the greatest risk to cracking the head. It really difficult to drill that inner screw clear, and if you try to punch it clear, look out. Furthermore if you try to twist the shaft and the screw isn't clear, again you risk cracking the head. If the shaft is secure on the head, I would recommend trying to dab epoxy in the cracks. Just an opinion. Good luck.

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