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Is 16 hours enough time for epoxy to cure?


e-man

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Hey guys. I just re-shafted a set of irons with golfworks multipurpose high impact shafting epoxy (the one with a one to one volume mix). I normally wait a full 24 hours before testing a club. I assume 16 hours is not enough? It’s 2:30 now and I’m playing at 6:30 am tomorrow.

I should add that the clubs are sitting in the basement now and it’s cool down there.

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How cool? If you are worried point a heat lamp at them.

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If its cold then thursday night rebuild for Sat play.....thats how i do it

i use Araldite good stuff may you and your Epoxy Stay Strong and bonded in these trying times....

2020 18 July mid winterNZ
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I just bought Araldite Standard because the Golfworks stuff is stuck in the USPS nirvana. Happy to hear it works for golf clubs!

FW4L3EN8EQRK.jpeg

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Should probably be OK but I'd put a lamp or space heater blowing on them to make 100% sure.

Ping G430 LST 10.5* : Ventus Red TR 7S

Titleist TSR2 4W : Tensei 1K Black 85-S

Mizuno CLK 19*: Ventus Blue HB-8S

Srixon ZX Utility #4: Nippon Modus3 125-S

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 125-S

Cleveland Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 125-S 

Piretti Potenza 370g : Breakthrough Technology Stability Shaft - 34"

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60 mins. at 140F or 90 mins at 120F and the epoxy will be fully cured. There is no need to wait 24 hours. In fact, the epoxy bond will be stronger if you heat cure compared to room temperature.

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Everytime I epoxy a club I always set it on a heating pad on the medium or high setting. It cures in about 6 hours. I have the pad set in a 90* angle upward with a board behind it so it heats the sole and hosel. You can set a whole set of irons across it. I've cured hundreds of clubs on this.(see pic)

2B4VJA3H11O4.jpeg

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Have you ever melted a ferrule doing this? I wouldn't think it would happen, but that's the only thing I can think of that could come between this and pure genius.

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Never. It doesn’t get hot enough to melt plastic. This one I’ve used for over 20 years. Depending on the ambient temperature I use it on medium or high setting.

Like I said “hundreds”.

Callaway AI Smoke Max 10.5* Diamana GT 60 S
Callaway AI Smoke Max 5W Tensei Blue 65 S

Ping G430 4H RDX Red 6.0

Mizuno JPX 923 HMP 5-GW Modus 105S (bent 2* weak)
Cleveland RTX6 54 & 58*
TM Spider X DB 34”

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JB ClearWeld Syringe, 5min setup and 1hr cure. Takes a little more heat to break bond than golf epoxy, but totally worth it. It comes in the dual-plunger at most major department stores. Seriously easy and minimal mess with the plunger. Many will poo-poo this option, but it's the cheapest/best way I've found in 10 years of building. Ymmv

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Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

As mentioned in another thread, I didn’t have much luck with Araldite. Heads got loose on my first iron build, and I think I did do it properly. I’ll try the Golfworks 24 hour stuff now...

WITB 2024

Dr Mizuno ST-Z

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4H New Level NLH-01

5/6i New Level 902 OS

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GW/SW/LW  Mizuno S23

Putter Odyssey WhiteHot OG 2-Ball

Ball  Vice Pro/Snell MTB Prime

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One more time:

when you’ve put the clubs together, how long do you wait until you apply heat with a heat gun? I’m afraid the fresh epoxy might get very runny instead of curing faster when heat-gunned right after assembly.

My method is a simple heat gun pointed towards the clubs leaning on a wall. I have a cooking thermometer to check the temperature. See pic below.

56e6c3f9-5841-4a9b-b164-c41c18b37095.jpeg

WITB 2024

Dr Mizuno ST-Z

3W Cally Rogue ST Max

5W Mizuno ST-Z

4H New Level NLH-01

5/6i New Level 902 OS

7i-PW New Level 902 PD

GW/SW/LW  Mizuno S23

Putter Odyssey WhiteHot OG 2-Ball

Ball  Vice Pro/Snell MTB Prime

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